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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    My V6 LX seems to shift into 5th gear quickly and stay there a little longer than it should. Do I recall a TSB about shift pattern changes? I know most cars now are geared to get into 4th or 5th ASAP to improve mileage but I tend to get a slight shimmy when the car gets into 5th and the speed does not warrant it. Any advice appreciated.
  • hdsithdsit Posts: 58
    As far as i know - there is no TSB that take care of this - only one for 2 to 3 shift flare.
    Eventually se:
    hdsit, "Hyundai Sonata Transmission Questions" #19, 4 Jan 2008 11:47 pm!keywords=
    or this:
    http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t21620-45mph-vibrations-and-torque-converter.htm
    As far as i can read from your post - it seems similar to my complaints with this model.
    Have talked to a technician from Hyundai in Denmark, who for the time being is testing the 09-model, before it goes public here in Denmark.
    He says the problem is NOT soleved in the 2009 model - too bad - i really have hopes so...
    Think i'm going to test it for my self in the next week.
  • azeradaveazeradave Posts: 42
    I have a 2007 Sonata V6. The emergency brake became stuck this morning. I cannot release the lever from the upright position. It is cold outside, but no water is in the area. Any suggestions? Thanks. :confuse:
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Posts: 442
    My 2006 LX changes into 5th at about 40mph and kicks out at about 35... personally because I am on basically flat area, in NW Florida, I would have preferred it to go into 5th at about 35.... but.... that's life... I haven't had any problems with its operation however, but am very interested in whatever you find out.
    van
  • jlindhjlindh Posts: 282
    You may be on the right track. When you say there is no water in the area, what area do you mean? Could there be frozen slush in the area if the parking brake lever on the rear drum? The parking brake works on a small drum which is part of the rear rotor, I believe.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    I trust "old" style intervals of 3000 miles. If you do it yourself the cost is minimal. I would not trust an "indicator" telling me how much life is left in my oil. I've done 5000 intervals and had to pay for that. I'd rather go with what I trust. :)

    If you are curious about the maintenance recommendations you should refer to your owners manual. ;)
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    I don't have the car or owners manual and I do not want to wait until after purchasing to find out these things.

    Different cars models require different amounts of maintenance.
    3,000 mile intervals is way overkill and is a waste of time, money and oil for the cars that don't require that schedule.
    I think that the Sonata might be one the car models that do require more maintenance than average and I will weigh that extra cost and inconvenience when comparing it to other cars.
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Posts: 804
    According to Hyundai's owner's web page, the recommended oil change interval is every 7500 miles/6 months unless it falls into one of the below categories:

    A - Repeated short distance driving
    B - Extensive idling
    C - Driving in dusty, rough roads
    D - Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
    E - Driving in sandy areas
    F - More than 50% Driving in heavy city traffic during hot weather above 90oF (32oC)
    G - Driving in mountainous areas
    H - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, or other commercial use
    I - Driving over 100 MPH (170 KM/H)

    We own two Hyundais and I get the oil changed every 5K to 7.5K miles and we live in south-central PA. Our driving patterns and environment would seem to dictate we should follow the severe schedule but when I asked our dealer's service manager said we would be OK with the schedule we use. YMMV. ;)
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,048
    I would want the dealers OK for that maint schedule in writing. I would say that at times nearly every driver in the country could fall into the severe schedule by that criteria. Anybody living in the northern states during the the winter would fall into this. Anybody living in a major city or in mountain areas. It would be nice if it said the MAJORITY of driving in one of the catergories but apparently it doesn't. For a lot of people afraid of voiding their warranty a dealers "oh, you should be ok" doesn't really hack it.
    I know this might sound a little anal but over on the Mazda6 board there was someone who had their oil changed at a jiffy oil change place and kept the receipts. He was denied warranty engine repair because the reciepts didn't have the vehicle VIN printed on them. Who does that?
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    The dealer does not set the schedule. The manufacturer does. The dealers very often recommend extra services not required by the manufacturer.
    If you are going to ask anyone, you should ask Hyundai to clarify what "repeated" and "extensive" means.

    It does say "More than 50%" of your driving in heavy traffic while temps are over 90 degrees.

    I don't do any of the things on the list regularly and many of those things never.
    There was probably something more to the Mazda5 story. Most work orders will at least have the license plate number and mileage. It may have been a 3rd party extended warranty company that was just making up excuses to deny claims. They would have to put that in their contract to enforce it. The person posting may have also just been lying about the whole incident.

    You can also send an oil sample to be analyzed at 3,000 miles to see how much longer you would be able to go based to your actual driving.

    http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html
  • A - Repeated short distance driving
    B - Extensive idling
    C - Driving in dusty, rough roads
    D - Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
    E - Driving in sandy areas

    F - More than 50% Driving in heavy city traffic during hot weather above 90oF (32oC)
    G - Driving in mountainous areas
    H - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, or other commercial use
    I - Driving over 100 MPH (170 KM/H)

    C, D, E, & G have nothing to do with your motor oil and if you only meet one, or all, of them you can use the 7,500mile interval.
    Now what those 4 things cause you to do is look over the brakes, body, air filter, and suspension more often as they can be affected by those items.
    Just let my dealer try and deny any warranty work just because I change my oil at 7,500 mile intervals. I have the oil testing results to prove the oil is still in great shape, probably better that the oil they put in when they change oil for the poor fools that go to them, and they need to tear down the engine and PROVE!! that it was an oil caused failure pointing to my records and my 7,500 mile OCI's means/proves nothing.
    btw I had 300,000miles on my 4x4 4cyl using 7,500 mile OCI's and she was running as strong as the day she was new when I finally had to let her go.
  • bmccoybmccoy Posts: 2
    Is anyone aware of an issue with the 2003 Sonata having rear brake or wheel bearing problems during cold weather that would cause them to freeze? My brother-in-law has a 2003 that when it sits in weather below freezing, the rear wheels freeze and will not turn. Pouring warm water on the rotor frees up the wheel to drive and then it freezes again when the car sits. The wheel bearings do not make noise when driven.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    I can see that parts of D,and G could have an affect on motor oil. With "D" cold weather starts can possibly cause oil starvation and a lack of prompt lubrication to internal parts especially if the oil is old and thick with accumulated contaminents.
    With "G" since I do a certain amount of mountainous driving I can see the extra strain put on the engine. It is in a lower gear at higher RPM much of the time while climbing.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,048
    I realize the dealer doesn't set the schedule....hence the dealer should have referred him to Hyundai for his answer. My point is exactly that---the manufacturer should be more clear in there criteria and not make people guess. Do you really think that if someone called Hyundai they would get a straight answer on this question or the same answer to the question if you called twice?

    There was a lot more to the Mazda6 story but I just stated the basics for brevity sake. No, it wasn't a third party warranty, Could there have been a detail left out or could the person have been lying about the whole incident? Sure. Anything on these boards has to questioned to some degree.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    The only thing I wouldn't question is a 3000 mile oil change. You can tout environment or whatever. The fact is changing fluids BEFORE they BREAKDOWN can only create longevity, happy owners and less hassles at warranty claim time. Being cheap up front really costs you later. I can attest to that. An oil change costs me $18.00 in parts plus my time and it lets me be one with the underside of my car. I like to know what is going on under there. Every few months is good insurance. Plus my neighbors all come out whan I have the hood up. Quality time.

    If buying a brand of car depends on the "maintenance" schedule I would suggest one with an oil life meter. You'll be happier it sounds like.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,048
    I hope you wear protection while you're under there. ;)
  • Ok, I can see your point with item G in that your engine is working harder at a lower gear/higher RPM going up the hill but you also get to come back down and the load is less at that time. D I just think that if you are using the proper grade/type of oil for the temps this is not a big deal, but it is a good point. There are several 0W-20/0W-30 oils out there that should cover that issue. In any case a good synthetic oil is built for 15,000mile or better OCI's and there are a few that are rated out to 25,000 and even 35,000 mile OCI's in a normal duty cycle and 1/2 of that in a severe duty enviroment.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    Is there a club I can join? :D
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Or maybe a ten-step program? :P
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    I fall into the "severe" driving catagory so according to my manual 3750 mile oil changes are required.

    Per Edmunds
    "The Short Story
    For most, here's all you need to know: Buy a brand-name oil that exactly matches your vehicle manufacturer's specifications and certification requirements, and change your oil according to the carmaker's recommendations. That will allow your engine to offer maximum performance and last as long as possible. Disastrous consequences await those who deviate from the manufacturer's recommendations. Those who want more, read on."

    Whew, now I can sleep at night. :D
  • bmccoybmccoy Posts: 2
    :confuse: Is anyone aware of an issue with the 2003 Sonata having rear brake or wheel bearing problems during cold weather that would cause them to freeze? 2003 Sonata that when it sits in weather below freezing, the rear wheels freeze and will not turn. Pouring warm water on the rotor frees up the wheel to drive and then it freezes again when the car sits. The wheel bearings do not make noise when driven.
  • bill304bill304 Posts: 18
    -I do the required work on my car, it has 53,500 miles.( car service shop ) After 16 months the dealer replaced the drivers side rear caliper, it was defective.

    I had the brakes checked a month ago and work done at a franchise repair shop, they installed new pads/ rotors.l/r front ,flushed braking fluid, trans etc . Rear brakes were fine. Everything was ok, no noise, better breaking etc.

    After about three weeks driving while the engine is still cold, and doing moderate braking say for a red light I will hear the same squealing noise, up front as I did before.the brakes were checked.

    it sounds like drivers side front. It mainly does it when it is cold but can happen 10% of the time when I have been driving for awhile as well. I went back to the repair shop and they said they couldn't reproduce the noise. Happily it did not sound like a bad caliper (which made a very LOUD grinding noise.

    Any suggestion what could be causing this and how to procede with the service
    business who did the work ? I don't mind paying to keep the car running and in shape condition. ? Maybe I would have been better off going right to the dealer and had the work done there ? Does anyone think it may be a botched repair job ?

    Appreciate any suggestions because I need to keep the car at least one more year.
  • I bought a used Hunadai Sonata,1999 model, ran only 86 k miles. After 15 days of purchase car stopped on the road, I towed it and took it to the mechanic. He told me that the sub frame is damaged, which is too expensive . Can I get any help from Hundai
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Probably not since it was a used car that you didn't have checked out properly before purchasing.
    You might be able to go back the seller or sue them in small claims court if it was something they were required to disclose.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    How long of a paint warranty would you like to have on your Sonata? Five years? Ten? Maybe lifetime?

    I have to agree - seems many of us want our products to be guaranteed for a lifetime. That's ridiculous! Every car wears out - the purpose of a warranty is to give you a reason to buy their car new, as opposed to used, and cheaper. For the expense of a new car, you get peace of mind that if something has been poorly or improperly made, the manufacturer will stand behind it. But how long do you expect them to guarantee a flawless machine? It's gonna wear out, folks. I'd love to have coverage from cradle to grave but from a manufacturer point of view - it's not feasible and stay in business. The car should last around 10 years and 150,000 miles without catastrophic problems, engine or transmission failure, etc. But after that - your expectations should be minimal, if it continues to run comparatively problem free, you are fortunate. Warranty coverage should not be expected forever.

    OTOH - I firmly also believe that the manufacturers are often short sighted about how they treat claims by their customers. A $300 repair covered when they're not obligated to cover it, can make a customer for life if you step up - and they should do it more then most of them do so. :shades:
  • zepol64zepol64 Posts: 1
    Two weeks ago my 2000 Sonata's subframe gave out. After leaving a H.S sporting event I noticed some play in the steering to point that I felt like I had no control over the steering. I had driven to this event on a highway doing 55MPH. Coming home I had to baby the car to my home. As I made the turn in front of my home the lower control arm ripped out of the subframe and the wheel sat down and the axle pulled out. This is truly a design floor but Hyundai says its not covered. Thank God it did not happen at high speed. I had just had an inspection and nothing was visible. Hyundai's failure to address this issue is going to get someone killed. They obviously know there is a flaw because when my mechanic ordered a new subframe the new one has drainage cutouts where water would have built up in the original subframe. My mechanic said that the other side of the frame was ready to give as well and that it was just a matter of time. I am still pursuing this with Hyundai.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The car is 8 years old. You didn't mention the mileage. It's a Hyundai - you paid less for the car than just about anything comparable. Pursue all you want - but I don't think they owe you anything. Just my opinion - guess I won't be on your expert witness list, eh? :P
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    I believe Hyundai has been replacing these sub-frames on specific year Sonata's on a case by case basis. That there may be some "arm twisting" required isn't unusual given the cars involved are at least 8 or 9 years old, with probably high mileage in many cases, have been passed to the second or third owners by now, driven with unknown adherence to maintainence or physical inspections with unknown (and many times indifferent) driver involvement or interest in such basics as keeping the thing washed of road salt in the winter . Hyundai probably didn't know about the lack of water drain holes in critical areas causing corrosion until many years later (read: NOW 7or 8-or 9 years later) and the fact they now have those holes just goes to show that once a flaw is found it is fixed. Finally the bumper to bumper the warranty which would have covered this is long expired in many or most cases (6 years or 60,000 miles). An automobile manufacturer cannot project 8 or 9 years down the road to determine if a long term flaw might show up, they can only be retroactive.
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