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Hyundai Sonata Care and Maintenance

drimpledrimple Posts: 47
Just had my 2000 light moss GLS detailed yesterday at a shop. I get it detailed once every year to keep it in top shape. So far so good. There were a few minor stains on the cloth seats, but the steam cleaner had no problem getting them out. The mats seem to be easy to clean as well. Despite all the mud accumulated into the mats during the winter, they are as good as new now. No cracking or other nasties on the dash. The car has aged real well so far despite 27,000 miles and 2 Wisconsin winters.
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Comments

  • kingrwkingrw Posts: 7
    Just reached 40,000 on my 2000 Sonata GLS. Decided it was time to change the spark plugs. The front 3 are easy because you only have to remove the plastic cover. The rear 3 are in an impossible location that can only be reached by removing the top of the engine. Can anybody provide any advice on this matter?
    Thanks
  • nuanceglsnuancegls Posts: 16
    "Just reached 40,000 on my 2000 Sonata GLS. Decided it was time to change the spark plugs. The front 3 are easy because you only have to remove the plastic cover. The rear 3 are in an impossible location that can only be reached by removing the top of the engine. Can anybody provide any advice on this matter?

    Thanks "


    Please go here I posted your question here...

    http://pub12.bravenet.com/forum/show.php?usernum=950089089

  • kingrwkingrw Posts: 7
    Thanks for your assistance. I seen the article posted, and I've already received a response.
  • palbripalbri Posts: 1
    Hello all. It has been awhile since I posted anything on my 2000 Sonata GLS V6. Anyway, I always took my Sonata to the dealer for all minor maintenance, i.e, oil changes, etc. However, because of a change in job locations the past year and a half, I took my car twice to a local Jiffy Lube JUST for oil changes. Today, I finally took my Sonata which has @33,000 miles in for oil change to a new Hyundai dealer (at least in the past 3 years) much closer to my home. Alas, I was charged $448.00!! Categorically, this is what was done (labor and tax inclusive):
    1. Cooling System Flush
    2. Replaced Air Filter
    3. Perform Oil flush**
    4. Oil Change and Body Chassis Lube
    5. Driver's Side Headlamp Replacement+++
    6. 4 Wheel Balance/Tire Rotation
    7. Transmission Flush Service.

    I was told the oil was very dirty and opaque due to "inferior oil used at places like Jiffy Lube"(I was shown under the car and mechanic dripped the oil for me) and he said an oil flush was needed to clean out the gunk. I opted for the transmission flush because I was told it was needed to be done after 30,000 miles in order to keep the car in tip top shape. The headlamp did burn out and needed replacement.

    Were these rates acceptable? Was I "had?" Was all of this really necessary? Comments are appreciated.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    "I was told the oil was very dirty and opaque due to "inferior oil used at places like Jiffy Lube"(I was shown under the car and mechanic dripped the oil for me) and he said an oil flush was needed to clean out the gunk."

    I assume your oil changes were with Pennzoil, which has one of the best spec. sheets for a dino. oil. Quaker State and SuperTech (not applicable here) have adequate spec. sheets and only Wolf's Head is sub-par.

    If you were doing 11,000 oil change intervals, however, with dino. you were letting things go WAY to long and your oil probably was dirty. I change at 4000 mile intervals, I believe Hyundai has a 7500 mile change cycle in non-severe service. Most cars are in severe service. If you are using an 11K change cycle you may have voided your warranty. Certainly would have if it was a Toyota.

    If you had 2 Jiffy-Lube changes and 3 others from other places, your dealer's full of it and was scamming you based on your oil change sticker.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Didn't notice that post was 2 months old. Hopefully the car is still running.
  • sammy35sammy35 Posts: 10
    Hi everyone,
    Just wanted to express my sadness. Last week I was in a car accident, I rear ended a non moving 96 Toyota Avalon in Los Angeles last week. Luckily I have car insurance. But a damage cost is incredible. The Toy suffered it appears minor damage to the visual eye to the rear bumper. Driver with whiplash!
    My 2001 Black Sonata V6 with 11K miles suffered considerable front end damage. The grill slammed into the radiator. Front hood crinkled. Does not look like any frame damage. The drivers air bag did go off. Etc. Auto Repair shop estimates costso far to be $7700 with no promise that more may be need. The car cost about $17K. When would it be considered a total loss instead of re-building????.
  • sonatavasonatava Posts: 75
    Totaling a car, I think is up to your insurance company as far as payout is concerned. It usually happens when the damage amount is close to the current bluebook value, taking into account any deductible. Check out what your current value is compared to the repair, what you paid for it doesn't really matter. It also might be up to the bank if you financed it. Best to contact your insurance company.

    The low resale value is one of the gambles with a Hyundai. Your car might be out, but at least you're ok.
  • dougndodougndo Posts: 136
    Really sorry to hear about your accident--I have a 2001 Ebony black GLS myself, and I'd hate to see it smashed.

    Unfortunately, the rear car in a rear end collision usually suffers the most, especially if you put on the brakes. The front of the car tends to dive and expose vulnerable points of the car. It's not uncommon for the front bumper to go completely under the rear bumper of the car in front, and there goes your protection. Also, the front of your car generally has more "crush" in it than the rear, so things can look even worse.

    Did you ever hear somebody brag about how tough his/her car is when someone hit 'em? Many times it's somebody who got rear ended. "You shoulda seen the guy who hit me!" If the roles were reversed, they wouldn't be bragging.

    The main thing is you're safe and your car protected you. I'm guessing they'll repair it, and even though some people would look askance at a repaired car, you'll be getting back a faithful friend who gave it up for you.

    Good luck.
  • de1029de1029 Posts: 52
    been a while since i posted anything here.
    but, about to make appointment with dealer for 30000 mile maintenance...and was wondering what i can expect cost wise. if anyone cares to share with me i would be grateful. car is sonata 2000 v6. thanks, joe.
  • I own a 2000 Hyundai Sonata GLS.
    I am in the military and currently stationed in Belgium. I recently tried to get some warranty work performed and was told that the warranty was only good in the USA, because that's where I purchased the car. They said they would fix it and bill me and then I would have to recover the cost by going through Hyundai USA.
    I find this really hard to believe and I'm wondering if anybody has any experience or ideas on this matter.

    FYI...the reasons I brought it in are for the following:

    1) The left rear power window is broken. The cable mechanism inside the door needs to be replaced.

    2) The front brakes act as if the rotors are warped. When slowing down from high speeds, the brakes are not smooth. I know pads aren't covered, but the pads are fine.

    Thanks,
    Richard W. King
  • This is similar to an appliance like a fridge or stove. Included in the MSRP price is a portion reserved for warranty work. Buy something in the States and move to Canada or vice versa ; well in all likelyhood you're stuck with the bill. The same thing applies for bringing a car overseas. Hopefully Hyundai USA will work out a deal for you.
  • Does anyone have a how to for changing the spark plugs.
  • I was just on a car accident last week. I (front) collided with a 96-Toyota pickup, mostly the driver's side. I was about 25-30mph. The air bags at driver's side did not deployed. At what speed and how hard one needs to be hit in order for a sensor to deploy the air bag?
    Also, on 6/2002, I was also hit on the Driver's side by the gate access of the apartments where I used to live. The gate hit almost just past the front tire, making a nice dint into the driver's side door, and scratching the car all the way to the rear end. At this time, the front side air bags did not deployed either. Few weeks later, I got a recall notice from Hyundai advising me to bring the car for the sensor to be repair because the side air bags will not deploy.

    I called Hyundai, they told me they will be mailing me some brochures about air bags, they would not discuss it over the phone.

    any feedback on this issue?

    Thanks
    Sally
  • nato1nato1 Posts: 102
    The drivers 'side' airbag will not deploy on a front end impact, unless the impact is at about a 45 degree angle or more off of the centerline of the car. The side air bags are mainly for the occurance of a 't-bone' crash.
    The recall on the side airbags wasn't for non-deployment, it was for premature deployment (ie someone forcefully slamming the door shut), I had my '02 sonata done.
    Hope this helps.
  • nato1nato1 Posts: 102
    http://www.howstuffworks.com/airbag1.htm


    I posted this link to help everyone understand the theory behind the airbag(s).

    The front airbags should deploy if your vehicle is hitting an object with the force of slamming into a brick wall at 10 to 15 mph, or approximately 15 - 22 feet per second into something that won't move.

    The side airbags will deploy if and an object hits the side at 10 mph, 15 feet per second.

    If an airbag doesn't deploy, you probably didn't need it. Airbags deploy at approx 200 mph. The idea is for the airbag to get between you and the car in the event that your going to get hurt.

  • jk27jk27 Posts: 244
    Actually, it depends on the manufacturer and model as to how fast you have to be going to deploy the airbags. I was driving an Isuzu Oasis (rebadged Honda Odyssey) and hit a car with my front end at about 25mph ... no airbag. Checked the owner's manual and it stated that collisions of approximately 30mph would trigger the front airbags. 10 mph seems a bit extreme for airbag deployment.
  • nato1nato1 Posts: 102
    I suppose manufactures are going to to the airbag deployment ratings in Kilo-Joules per second, or KJ/S. This would be the most absolute rating.
  • Does anyone have a how to for changing the spark plugs for V6 Sonata. The previous link is no longer any good.
  • For any Canucks out there who are in the snow/ice belt and who happen to be driving a 2002 Sonata with 16 inch mag wheels; I went down to our local Canadian Tire store and purchased their in stock 15 inch winter wheels ($45 a rim)for a 2001 Sonata,(Hyundai don't have a 16 inch winter wheel). I then installed 215-65-15 Toyo GO2 Plus winter tires. I've always driven on Michelins since 1968 but these Toyo's have surpassed my expectations for icy conditions.
  • Try Goop...sold in auto/hardware stores.
  • ray_h71ray_h71 Posts: 212
    "frohling", you're in for an unpleasant job if you intend to do this yourself. Obviosly the forward-facing bank is a no brainer - remove the engine cover, pull the cables and unscrew the sparkplugs with a 6" extension on the proper socket. (ALWAYS on a COLD engine to avoid aluminum's nasty habit of warping if you remove the sparkplugs while the heads are still hot!) The rear bank is the problem. They're buried under the plenum chamber/runners unit that's bolted to the intake manifold and a rear brace. The plenum chmber/runners have to be disconnected from the throttle body and then removed from the intake manifold and a rear support bracket after removing and moving the throttle and cruise control cables and any cabling clips bolted to the plennum chamber/runners unit. At least four of these bolts are "blind" - you'll be feeling for them and will likely have to use a universal joint-type socket to access them. All the while with the attendant threat that one or more of these hidden bolts will fall and lodge somewhere in the framework before they hit the ground. (Why are autobodies bolt "magnets"?) At reassembly it'll probably be desirable, if not outright necessary, to reinstall the plennum chamber/runner assembly with a new gasket. (An air leak will be very frustrating to track down if you end up with drivability problems - not at all unlike an intermittant "firing" problem of a defective sparkplug.) The throttle and cruise control cables will probably have to be readjusted when reinstalled, too. Hyundai strongly "recommends" that owners let a Hyundai dealer service shop do the sparkplug changes for good reason. Hyundai conservatively recommends that spark plugs be changed out at 60,000 miles. Since these are platinum tipped sparkplugs from the factory, it seems odd that they'd have to be changed out at that short a mileage interval. I've never gotten less than 100,000 miles off of platinum sparkplugs on any car I've used them in. If you're thinking of changing out at less than that, you may be wasting your time and money. But, if it really is necessary for you to changeout your sparkplugs, just be sure you use platinum replacement sparkplugs.
  • ray_h71ray_h71 Posts: 212
    Anyone know whether the base Sonata AM-FM/CD player ("H260") head unit requires keying in an anti-theft code to reactivate in the event of a power interruption or battery replacement? I'm not having any problems, but the owner's manual is mum on the subject. Someone on another Hyundai forum said there should be a credit-card sized card with instructions packed in the owner's manual but he failed to mention whether this was applicable to all Hyundai audio head units. I'd rather know sooner rather than later if this could be a problem down the line. TIA!
  • I have a 00 GLS with 45k miles. Recently after jump stating it, the radio and CD no longer work. The audio fuse was not burned out. When I turned it on, the radio lights on the display pannel comes on and the power antenna extends. However, I get no sound. The dealer told me that the warranty ran out after 3yr/36k miles. Does anyone know if this problem could be fixed by simply replacing a fuse on the radio or resetting a switch?
  • hjr2hjr2 Posts: 105
    your dealership is lying. How do I know this? Simple.
    2 months ago, my stereo was not working at all. I got t new battery, not it is ok, except cd player works when it feels like it(luckily, I have cassettes/and player in my 99 gls).

    I called Hyunai and asked about a radio replacement/cost. First Thing the guy said was "it's under warranty". I told him I had 90,000 muiles and he said,"No, th warranty on that expired at 60,000 miles"...Not 36K, like your crooked dealership told you.

    Either that, or the 2 dealerships here in Ohio are just nice guys who want to fix things for free ;-)
  • ray_h71ray_h71 Posts: 212
    "An original equipment radio, cassette tape mechanism, and compact disc player are covered for the first 3 years from the date of original retail delivery or date of first use, or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first."

    That's a direct quote from the Hyundai "2003 Owner's Handbook & Warranty Information" booklet. Whether previous model years differ could only be verified by access to earlier editions.
  • frohlingfrohling Posts: 8
    Ray, Thanks for the feedback.
  • spazaspaza Posts: 2
    i just took my 98 sonata with 67,000 miles in for an oil change. the mechanic pointed out to me that my rack & pinion joint is loose. the rubber boot has slipped on the rack allowing salt and dirt from this winter to corrode the interior seal of this unit. unfortunately this means that the seal is now leaking my power steering fluid, and they are telling me the entire unit has to be replaced. this involves dropping the exhaust unit and following up with an alignment, as well as a min. of 4hrs of labor. i have an initial quote of $750. any helpful hints are welcome.
  • ray_h71ray_h71 Posts: 212
    spaza, Hyundai uses two suppliers for steering racks on the Sonata. One of them makes a unit that can be field repaired, the other requires sending the unit back to the manufacturer for a rebuild. Even the first type requires some special tools, so it's not considered a do-it-yourself project unless you're a veteran tinkerer since high school autoshop days (and, even then...). Your mechanic is right - the exhaust system has to be partially dropped for clearance to remove the rack. As you've probably already surmised, all of this is a labor inten$ive job. Rack$ aren't cheap, either - even rebuilt. Not just for Hyundais, either. You could always request a second opinion about the need and the cost, and perhaps a shop specializing in front end and steering work would be a better choice if your mechanic only occasionally does this type of work. But, if his diagnosis is correct (and it probably is), you are going to have to bite the bullet on this. With the system leaking, you run the risk of running low enough on fluid that your PS pump could be at ri$k of running dry and failing (doesn't take long once it starts sucking air). The one bright(?) spot is that there's really only one alignment adjustment possible on most cars with strut front suspension systems. In the case of the Sonata, it's a modified strut front suspension system with both upper and lower control arms (VERY similar to the Honda Accord's setup). Nevertheless, both caster and camber are effectively welded into permanent specification during vehicle build. Unless you have impact front end damage, all you should be looking at is bringing the toe-in/toe-out into spec. after re-assembly.
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