Hyundai Sonata Care and Maintenance

rhduke00

For my last oil change, I used Mobil one 5w20. I used this weight because it's recommended by the factory for the 2006 Sonata's, although the owner's manual does say that 5w30 or even 10w30 are acceptable alternatives. I live near St Louis Mo and in another month temperatures will be consistently in the high 80s and 90s and by mid summer will sometimes hit 100. My next oil change will be in another month. Should I consider switching to 5w30 for the late spring and summer? I'm thinking even during the hotter months, I should stay with 5w20 so as not to increase the volume of polymers (I've read that a greater difference between cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity means more viscosity modifiers). This is probably not a big deal but I'm not sure. What's your advice?

tb88

Why not use 5-30 or 10-30 year round!

You have a 10/100,000 warranty... and let Hyundai worry about the volume of polymers.

ctc1

If your using 100% synthetic oils the viscosity in high or low temps isn't a problem. Try putting a quart of mobil 1 in the freezer overnight it will flow like at room temp or try cooking in pan on stove good luck trying to get it to breakdown from the heat. Use the 5w20 year round it can take it and the car will be all the better for it this weight oil is used to increase fuel mileage by several manufacturers and is a proven product.

rhduke00

Thanks to both of you for responding. Believe I'll stay with Mobil one 5w20 year round.

ray_h1

I haven't signed onto the 5W-20 uber alles argument. My personal take is that auto companies doing business in the U.S. are being extorted to that viscosity range by the EPA to maximize fleet average fuel economy numbers under threat of severe economic sanctions. I'll continue using my favored 10W-30 year 'round until it's exhausted. (and I've got a pretty good stash on hand...) Do I feel guilty about the two-tenths or so miles-per-gallon penalty which results from my "wasteful ways"? Nope - especially when I see the number of honkin' big-inch V8 equipped Lincoln Navigators and GMC Yukons flying past me on the freeway at 80 mph. I've compared posted used oil analysis reports over at BITOG. One of the tested parameters is the final viscosity with the used oil heated to 210 deg. F. (typical oil temperature for a fully warmed engine after 10 miles or more operation). 10W-30 motor oils typically shear down to a low-thirty weight, though seeing mid-twenty viscosities after ~3,000-4,000 miles use isn't rare. Some (not all) 5W-20 motor oils shear down to the mid-to-upper teens after the same mileage interval. (even lower for engines used on track days or for heavy hauling) Interestingly (to me, anyway) you won't find European automakers recommending these low hot viscosity, tight-range motor oils for their engines. VW, Audi, Mercedes-Benz, and BMW, among others, have been specifying 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic oils for the past five years even with extended drain intervals. As bad as gas prices are getting over here lately, they're rapidly approaching or surpassing double that in Europe, so European motorists definitely have at least an equal stake in fuel economy as their American counterparts. But the European automakers apparently feel the tradeoff favoring better engine protection (presumably afforded by somewhat higher viscosity at operating temperature) will be of more economic benefit to the cars' owners in the long run. Should be interesting to see how this plays out.

tmp0404

Just purchased an 06 Sonata LX with the premium stereo and sunroof. I got it for about $200 over, plus another $1000 off and 2.9% financing for 5 years. I feel like I got a great deal.

Any ways, the owners manual indicates that 87 octaine gas or higher should be used. Since 87 is the lowest grade available in my area, and also the least expensive, would you mind commenting about the gas octaine that you are using, and your experiences with it. Thanks in advance for any of your comments.

njerald

Just purchased an 06 Sonata LX with the premium stereo and sunroof. I got it for about $200 over, plus another $1000 off and 2.9% financing for 5 years. I feel like I got a great deal.

So what was the final price before Tax & License?

rhduke00

Ray,
I appreciate your reply and it tracks with what my Hyundai service manager suggested shortly after I bought the car in Dec. The service manager said that his techs use 10w30 even on the new Sonata's despite the factory recommendation. Back then I thought the dealership might be using a one size fits all approach so I decided to follow the manufacturers recommendation of 5w20 when I did my first oil change. However, after reading your very persuasive post, I will probably switch to 10w30 year round. Thanks again.

ray_h1

One cautionary - if it snows where you live, back off to 5W-30 or 5W-20 during winter. I'm in flatland southern California, so 10W-30's not an issue for me.

ray_h1

tmp0404, stick with gasoline from the majors and 87 pump octane unleaded regular should be just fine. (With unbranded convenience store gasoline you chance getting a load even a brain-dead arsonist wouldn't trust as an accelerant.) These engines have knock sensors that effectively allow the engine management computer to tune your engine on the fly for maximum performance without pinging. I have an '03 Sonata with the 2.7L V6, and it's never pinged - even under load. I ran one load of 91 octane "premium" through the engine just to satisfy a curiosity itch and I might just as well've taken the extra $1.50 it cost and lit a match to it for all the good that higher octane fill did.

tmp0404

Again, my price was about $200 over invoice. It is an 06 LX with the sunroof and upgraded stereo. I used the 2.9% financing for 5 years, and got $1000 off which is used as a down payment with the 2.9% financing plan. I also got an above average deal for my trade. I used Kelly Blue book, found out the price for my car that I would get from the dealer on a trade, and also found out the price I would get for my car on a private sale. Via my negotiations with the dealer, I was able to get a trade in value closer to the value of the car if I sold it privately.

According to Hyundai, the financing and $1000 deal ends this month, and my dealer didn't know what they will be offering in May. As we all know, one usually has a better chance of getting a good deal close to the end of a month.

BTW, my purchase was done in Eastern PA.

And thanks for the response regarding the fuel grade.

sambojoho1

Can anyone point me to the fuel filter in my 2002 Sonata? The shop manual and the Hyundai webtech system both tell me that the filter is in the fuel line, but I certainly can't find it. I've followed it as far as I can, but there is no filter there. My dealer tells me it is in the tank. Can someone help me out? If it is in the tank, how do I gain access to it? Do I need to remove the tank? The Hyundai shop manual is useless for this procedure, which should be fairly routine.

ray_h1

Surprise! There are TWO "filters". The first (really a screen to weed out the coarsest crud) sits in the fuel tank. Unless you're consistently getting really crappy gasoline, that screen is good for the duration. The finer, "true" filter is in the line towards the rear of the car - driver's side, just ahead of the rear axle. You'll need the proper size line wrenches to extract it - one for the compression nut and the other for the fixed nut on the filter, itself, for leverage. The compression nuts are on fairly tight. Leverage against the wrong part or inadvertently twisting the steel line can make for a real bad day if it results in a collapsed the fuel line. The fuel lines are always pressurized to aid initial starting, so that pressure must be bled off first (unless you want a face-full of raw gasoline - not recommended). Once you get the old filter off, use a hacksaw to cut it open (at the output end) and carefully inspect the filtration media adjacent to the input end under magnefication for metal flakes. If you find any, bad news - your fuel pump's not much longer for this world.

sambojoho1

Thanks rayh, but actually I have examined the area right where you are talking about. There is no fuel filter there, only the fuel lines from the tank, heading up front. I remain baffled.

soh1

Just had fuel filter changed on my 02 Sonata by dealer (112k+ miles). Fuel filter is located inside the petrol tank with Fuel pump assembly. Access is from the trunk, or you can reach to trunk through right side rear passenger seat by folding it down. Dealer took about 20-25 minutes to change it but charged one hour labor (it looks like some tasks requiring technical skills are charged for at least 1 hour labor rate even though it takes shorter time to do it, e.g., dealer also quoted one hour to change two radiator hoses. I guess I will change them myself along with spark plugs).
My car was doing pretty good until about two/three weeks ago when engine check light came up for no apparent reason. I simply took battery negative terminal out for two minutes, and put it back. The check engine light CEL was gone. But I noticed car was not starting in first self as it use to be for last four and a half years. I also noticed a surge sometimes if car starts after cranking few times. I suspected the fuel filter was not properly working, but after changing fuel filter, its still the same. I discovered a new way though to start in first self (crank), i.e., turn the ignition on and wait for two or three seconds until a continuous voice (probably fuel pump working) stop, and a click could be heard. Then turning the self key will start the car in first try. I still have to understand why surge happens, i.e., the engine rpm suddenly jumps to 1.7 or so.

Soh

hshah74

I had hyundai sonata 2000 v6. I would like to change pvc valve and cabin air filter. Can anybody tell me where it is located and step to replace that.

ray_h1

Remove the engine cover by removing the four small bolts holding it to the engine, removing the oil filler cap, and then lifting the cover off. (I removed my engine cover ONCE. It's now resting in a place of "honor" alongside the garage wall - and there it'll remain until I'm ready to unload the car on some unsuspecting soul in another year or two...) The PCV valve is threaded into the right side of the front cam cover - you'll see a black hose connected to it. Use pliers to relieve the tension on the hose clamp and slide it a few inches past the end of the hose. Remove that end of the hose from the valve, and then use an open-end wrench to unscrew the valve. When you replace it, do NOT get on the wrench as hard as you can when tightening the new one. You're screwing into soft aluminum and you CAN enjoy the thrill of a real bad day if you strip the threads. Sufficiently snug to seat the new valve so that it can't be removed without the aid of a wrench is fine. (These valves can last indefinitely if they're serviced by removing them to soak in carb cleaner or gasoline while you change your oil. I have an old coffee can filled with about an inch of gas that I use to mop up spills and clean the oil filler cap, anyway, so it's no big deal to place the PCV valve in that can, too. I yank mine before I drain the oil and reinstall it after I finish installing the new oil filter and pouring in the fresh motor oil. The valve ends up soaking for about half an hour. What little gasoline remains behind inside after shaking most out will be drawn through the engine and burned upon first startup.)

The cabin air filter is behind the glove compartment bin. You'll need to remove the glove bin for access - a tricky procedure to dislodge the nylon chord that limits how far down the bin "falls" when opened. Once the bin is completely off, the filter, itself, is behind an access panel cover at the front of the A/C evaporator-heater core case. When you remove the panel cover, the cabin filter comes out with it. You then remove the panel cover from the old filter and install it on the new one. Slide the filter into its slot in the case and latch the panel cover, replace the bin, re-attach the travel limit chord, and you're good to go. Unless you enjoy solving puzzles, this chore might be better left to a service tech who's familiar with the procedure. (I made four abortive attempts before I finally figured it out when I installed a cabin filter in my cabin-filterless '03 Sonata GL.)

eric39

Hi

I read somewhere on here that you can have the dealer activate Speed Sensitive Locks. Is this true? I have an '06 LX.

Thanks
Eric

bobad

Eric, quite true. It takes 5 minutes to hook up and turn on the automatic lock feature. Most dealers do it for free. I can't think of any reason to do it, so I left mine alone.

pekelopd

Yes you have, but check under the forums "hyundai sonata 2006+". Some dealers will want to charge you for it. Since you already took delivery of the car, you're at their mercy?! I have the '06 GLS I4. Didn't bother getting it activated, also didn't know about it prior to buying the car.

mgesh

Help! I am trying to change the air filter in my Sonata, and I cannot get the cover to clear the air-filter compartment. I unplugged the module, and I wonder if I have to take the hose clamps off in order to get the hose out of the way. There is just not enough room to squeeze that hose away from the compartment to get it open enough to get the filter out. Ther is also an electronic gadget in there that needs to clear the cover. Its a puzzle, this one. I know I did it once before, I just can't remember how I did it.

msg :mad:

mgesh

I forgot to mention it is a 1998 Sonata

trip11

I dont know if its me or what but cant seem to find normal rear seat covers for the split back rear seats for my kids for sonata-GLS. If anyone knows a website or can help PLEASE REPLY !

ray_h1

who've been frustrated in their attempts to access the diagrams of the Hyundai WebTech site's various online shop manuals, here's the lowdown: The graphics are still available. The trick is to install the latest versions of Adobe SVG Viewer and Macromedia Flash Player plugins. They can be accesssed on the Hyundai WebTech site under the "Site Requirements" heading. The URL to Hyundai WebTech seems to have been recently changed, too:

Hyundai WebTech

For those who aren't familiar with Hyundai WebTech, registration is free and the site's an invaluable resource for TSBs and shop manual text and diagrams across Hyundai's entire U.S. model lineup. Good stuff!

jdegray

Have you had any luck in finding rear seat covers? My wife and I recently purchased an '06 Sonata GLS and are looking for front and rear seat covers as well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

lightfootfl

By the way, FYI it is necessary to use the MS Internet Explorer, rather than Firefox to have access to the sites. At least that is what I have found.

pekelopd

FYI: I wouldn't recommend front seat covers. The front seats have side torso airbags built into the vertical portion (not the seat portion). Any seat cover or tshirt would interfer with it's operation in the event of a side impact.

trip11

I searched for quite a while and the closest rear seat covers I found was at DrivingComfort.com and I purchased Canvasback rear seat cover (Water proof too). I have a 06 sonata with beige interior and the beige cover blends in nicely. They also have 3 sizes, I got 57 in. Wide x 21 in. deep x 22 in. Tall--- for $110 dollars. Not A Perfect Fit but it Definitely gets the job done. Hope This Helps, Good Luck!! P.S. Took about 2 and half weeks to get.

sonlx

Greetings everyone, I was wondering what everyone else with the leather seats in the Sonata is doing to maintain them. I have used the Armor All leather wipes, which supposedly clean and condition, but that doesn't seem to last very long. Any recommendations anyone? Brand? Type of Product?
Thanks

jdegray

Thanks. Is your interior cloth or leather? I found a few sites that had front and rear covers, but only for the LX model(leather). We have the gray cloth, and I just want to make sure they will fit before I order.Thanks again for your help!

trip11

I Have tan cloth interior but you can either get tan or gray rear covers. Like I said its not a custom fit(expensive if u can find) but fits very well, with those dimensions i gave you on my previous post. Again 2-3 weeks for delivery. Good Luck !

wildcatter

I have a '06 White LX wih the grey leather interior. I asked a Rotary friend who is the repair business, and his advice is to just keep the leather CLEAN. Use saddle soap for cleaning, but don't use any of the conditioners or other treatments. I'll go with his experience in the business. (BTW, my wife and I love the car. It now has 3,487 miles, and averages 22.923 m/g for the first 151.069 gallons. This is city and highway driving, up to 75 mph on the freeways, and with the a/c on.)

tbear503

Go to www.shearcomfort.com , they offer custom fit seat covers for all Hyundai lines in various colors. They claim that the covers are compatible with side air bags.

sonlx

Thank You wildcatter. I was wondering why it is bad to use the other conditioners and other treatments. I'm just curious and inclined to wanting to know why.
Thank You!

gmctruck

You don't want to use any products that contain silicone because they don't allow the material to breathe which causes it to dry out and crack. There are products that are safe to use and protect the material from UV damage. Unfortunately, we are not allowed to mention any specific brands on here, so I can't tell you exactly what product to use.

ray_h1

"Unfortunately, we are not allowed to mention any specific brands..."

We're not? I've mentioned specific brands many times in my posts - such as Purolator, Prestone, TropArtic, Castrol, etc. I use a product manufactured by leather producer, "Eagle Ottawa" - who supplies leather to all three U.S. automakers, DaimlerChrysler, Ford, and General Motors in addition to BMW and Daimler-Benz in Germany, Ford-owned British Leyland in Great Britain, and Toyota in Japan, among others. Eagle Ottawa's leather care product is called, "Tanner's Preserve Leather Conditioning Cream", though it can be hard to find. It's surprisingly inexpensive, too. There's always the relatively pricey, well thought-of "Zymol" line of leather care products, too.

gmctruck

You're right...! I just checked the rules again. I must have been thinking of a different forum. The product I was referring to is called 303 Aerospace Protectant. It works well and can be applied to many different surfaces both interior and exterior and 303 helps prevent UV damage. You can only find it online or at RV/Marine stores.

ray_h1

With my brand name-laden "test" post above, I figured we'd all soon find out about prohibitions. (Yeah - I like to live life on the edge...:))

trip11

Could Anyone advise a quality wax and paint sealant for my new sonata. Thanks All :shades:

sonlx

I'm not so sure about paint sealant, but I use Mothers Car wax and it works very well. A buddy of mine actually does the Step one, Step Two, and Step three treatment for his car. Step 1 and 2 are both liquid and come in a bottle. As for step 3 which is the wax, I would suggest getting the paste rather then the liquid. I hope this helps.

bobad

Read the labels. Anything with Carnuba wax in it is usually good. Carnuba is still the best wax on the market, but synthetics are catching up. Don't know if I would bother with sealants on a new car.

sonlx

Hello Everyone, It seems my car has gotten to the point where some of the maintenance is inevitable. I was wondering if anyone has had their rotors and brakes replaced yet. I have a 03 Sonata. I'm considering getting ceramic brake pads and new rotors but don't know too much about the brands out there. If anyone has any input that would great!
Thank You

echo4

which one would you choose for the 06 sonata v6? which brand would be better also. the manuel said quaker state. i like mobile better.

kansasman101

I have 04 Sonata and have done oil changes every 3000 miles and take it to Expert Tire. I also have tires rotated at that time and front end aligned, if needed.

Car has 44000 on it at this time. What are the suggested/needed things to be done now that it has more miles? Tranny? Spark plugs? Flushes?

Thanks in advance.

dump_truck

I have what I believe to be excess wax residue on the black plastic part of my wiper blades. What can I use to take the white residue off?

I just noticed today, my 6th day with my Limited, a small scratch on the hood up by the wipers. Hopefully it's just the clear coat but we'll see. Does anyone recommend any of those 'scratch removing' creams?

coachk1

The Sonata comes with a 5 yr warranty that, according to the salesman, covers almost everything except tires, brakes, & normal wear & tear. Anyone have issues getting repairs under the warranty?

kansasman101

This summer I had a front end strut needing replaced and they did it without a problem.

Still looking for comments on my previous post concerning what I should be looking at with an 04 with 43,000 miles as far as maintenance.

cirdan

Does anyone know the part number for the Sonata V6 oil filter kit? I'm having trouble getting an oil-change at the cheap & quick places because they don't even list this engine in their databases.

Would love to get a Fram Purolator or K&N part number. WIXfilters has it as part # 57061.

ray_h1

Purolator: L35610. (Good luck finding 'em, though... I suspect the "problem" comes down to the liklihood that these cars haven't achieved sufficient critical mass in sales that the autoparts stores want to devote shelf space to a slow moving stock number. Now, if you offered to buy a full case, they might be willing to put through a special order for you. Might also try Fleet Filters.)

dano13

Advance auto parts will order a Purolator filter for o6 Sonata but the cost is $15.00 , I get mine at the dealer two at a time $8.87 each and sence I use Mobil 1 they last about a year.