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2013 and Earlier - Hyundai Sonata Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • Hello All,

    I wanted to buy a Sonata SE back in July but the lowest offer I received was $23,000 OTD. MRSP of the car was about $24,400 and TTL was about $2K, tax here is 6%. $23K was more than I was willing to pay so I held out until now. We really need a car now so I have to buy a car before 2013. What do you guys think would be a fair price for a SE right now? I am not picky about the options but would definitely want push to start (not sure if this is standard or not). I was thinking $22K OTD would be a fair price since there is the $1.5K rebate now and back in July, it was only $500. Please give me your opinions. TIA!
  • I got mine here in Dallas for 19k.
    I know it is higher than 17.5 or 18k deals but when first dealer would not go below 20k, I decided to take it from second dealer. I did get all accessories though including tint.
  • Be sure to check fritzmall.com for price comparison. They have dealership in DC as well as Clearwater Fl. A Sonata Limited is in the low $21 thousand including incentives. Add package and you are talking about $23 or $24 something before tax, tag and fee.
  • Hi All

    I am planning to buy Sonata in a week, I live in Madison, WI but as we have only two dealers, I also looked into other dealers in Chicago.

    Here is the Best offer i got :

    Sonata GLS 2013

    Popular Equipment Package
    Carpeted Floor Mats
    Cargo Mat
    Cargo net
    Remote Start
    Rear Bumper Protector
    Wheel Locks

    MSRP: $23,190
    $500 Owner Loyalty/Competitive
    $1500 Holiday Bonus Cash
    $1750 Dealer incentive

    Sale Price: $18,635

    Please let me know if i can get anything for cheaper. I need PEP and Remote start.

    Thanks
    Sanket
  • I just got back from the dealership and this is what they are offering:

    2013 Black Sonata SE with the following options:
    remote start
    carpeted floor mats
    cargo mat
    cargo net
    auto-dimming rearview mirror
    mud guards
    wheel locks

    MRSP: $24,660
    Invoice: $23,624
    Sales Price: $22,400

    After TTL, and rebate of $2,000, OTD is $22,175

    I wanted $22,000 OTD but this is the lowest they were willing to go after talking to the manager. The sales person threw in free tint and I will get free lifetime oil changes.

    This seems like a good deal and I might buy the car this weekend. What do you guys think?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,732
    You are close enough to the Twin Cities that you might want to shop there (online/phone) there also.
  • You have obtained a good price before TTL. Make sure that there is no doc fee. Some dealers charge $200-$500. Most of the members have reported about $18,500 before TTL. However, a couple of members have reported about $17,500 before TTL.

    Remote start does not come in most GLS cars as a standard accessory, unlike the auto-dimming mirror. You are lucky to get one. If I were you, I would offer $18000. But, $18,500 is still a good price.
  • Twin cities ? Sorry I am new to this state. Which cities are those ?
  • I was thinking the same 17,500 is good price, but I get PEP (700 $) and remote start (325 $), hence i think 18,625 looks good. Again , i haven't been to the dealer in person. The price is given by the internet sales person.

    And hers is what the dealer's website says :

    The only additional charges you would need to add is your standard local county tax rate, plates, and doc fee of $161.38

    I plan to visit the dealer on Sat, let us see how much can he reduce. Don't want to miss the incentives they are giving for holiday season.
  • Pretty good deal. I did not get remote start and paid more.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    Allstate is NOT unique on offering this optional coverage. And it is inexpensive. Ask your current agent.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,732
    Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota, are commonly known as the "Twin Cities" (maybe you've heard of the Minnesota Twins baseball team?). Those are the center for a large (2.5 million population) metropolitan area located about 4 hours up I-94 from Madison. Many Hyundai dealers. So maybe worth getting quotes from their Internet sales people, at least... would not take long.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    The trick is to not ask for quotes. Do your research on invoice price and incentives. You can get all $2000 of incentives on Hyundai by including it in your quote. You tell them what your price is. I've describes the procedure here in this thread. Once you ask for a quote, you're basically doomed to pay more than you could pay.

    Steve
  • Backy

    How do you find the invoice price of a car. Sticker on car has only MSRP and Hyundai website gives the MSRP.

    What is the thread # where you have described the process ?

    Thanks
    Sanket
  • I generally don't buy extended warranty for electronics and appliances (laptop, TV, fridge, etc.,). What's the general opinion on Extended Warranty for new cars ? Is it worth paying about $990 (Warranty Direct) for 10 years/100,000 miles ?

    Looking forward to hear from others. TIA.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,732
    You tell them what your price is.

    By "get a quote" I meant find out what they will sell the car for. If you want to tell them what your price is, and see if they'll meet it, fine. But I always like the dealer to give me THEIR best price (which may or may not be their "real" best price) before I tell them what price I think is acceptable. What happens if they would in fact go LOWER than the price I give them? Do you think they'll offer a lower price to me out of the kindness of their hearts? I don't think so.

    Once you give the dealership the price you are shooting for, you are doomed to get the car for no lower than that price. If that's OK with you, great.
  • Finally I took the deal (18630) which I was offered in Chicago to my Madison dealer (Zimbrick), he matched the price ($18605 +135 doc fee (after 1500 +500 rebates)) . I am bad negotiator hence I said yes. At the last minute rather than buying I leased the car.

    Here are the details :
    Lease for 36 months / 208 +10 (tax)=218$/month
    200 $ down-payment for the first month.
    Residual =61%
    Price to buy after the lease –14,142

    GLS + Popular Equipment Package (Ruby color – my wife wanted it)
    Carpeted Floor Mats
    Cargo Mat
    Cargo net
    Remote Start
    Rear Bumper Protector
    Wheel Locks

    I will get the car tomorrow (as the car he has didn’t have remote start), as they need to get the vehicle.

    Thank you everyone, this forum is really helpful. First I leased my Sienna and now Sonata.

    Thanks
    San
  • I read quite a bit of talk about "Out the door prices" and such, but not much talk about what the total cost with be. Unless all Sonata owners are strapped with cash (like a few are) then getting a good deal, lets say a 30k MSRP for 25K before TTL, will still put you over 30k, depending on what state you are in and what financing options you qualify for and length of loan, etc. I am guessing 60 months is standard, unless someone has a big down payment. Hyundai is offering 2.9% with the $1500 off or 0% for 60 months, without the option for $1500 off. Now which offer is the best? It depends on the purchase price, how long the vehicle is owned. Not really going to go into this anymore, but 0% beats $1500 plus 2.9% in some cases.
  • just got my hyundai sonata limited with the premium package in white with black leather for 23,790 plus tax and tag this included the $2,000 incentive and thanks to this group i did not pay any doc. fees. thank you for all your advice it really helped.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    Research is why I know that what I offer will always be less than they will ever quote. No dealer will voluntarily give away their holdback, not unless pushed hard. My offer always subtracts holdback from invoice, then I subtract all incentives. Do you think any dealer will offer you better than that out of the gate?
    Steve
  • piezonpiezon Posts: 23
    That's an awesome looking car at a great price. Ours is white with tan leather because we loved the two-tone interior look with the darker dashboard & console. We paid almost $2,000 more than you because my wife wanted the pano roof/navigation system/back-up camera plus our incentive was only $500 back in late may when the 2013's were just hitting the showrooms. And, we had to wait 4 weeks for them to locate the exact car.
    Enjoy the car.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,732
    Do you think any dealer will offer you better than that out of the gate?

    Out of the gate, probably not. In the end? Maybe. I have had and heard of amazing deals offered under special circumstances, e.g. dealer needs a couple sales to qualify for a special manufacturer incentive. Those are things you and I never hear about, and getting them involves some luck and also some skill.

    If you give the dealer your target price at the start of negotiations, which is invoice less holdback less all known incentives, that's the best you will ever do. And not a bad deal at all, if you can get it. But maybe not the best deal... because you'll never know how far the dealer was willing to go below that.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    " And not a bad deal at all, if you can get it. But maybe not the best deal... because you'll never know how far the dealer was willing to go below that. "

    Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. It always works. I also make sure I never take the deal that the sales rep gives me. No matter what it is. I always make sure I price low enough such that the sales rep needs to get his/her manager or general manager involved. That is because sales rep are allowed to go so far.

    I have always make sure that management gets involved. And another thing. If the sales rep ever did accept my offer on the spot without having to get management involved (which has never happened by the way), but if it did happen, I would walk. Because I would know that I should have made a lower quote. As I said that has never happened.

    I also make it a point to challenge doc fees; to either get them removed or to lower the agreed-upon price even further such that the doc fee is eliminated or, at worst, reduced. That, again, has always worked.

    This is not without some pain and whining on the part of the sales rep about costs of staying in business, etc. All BS.

    At the end of the day they won't make the deal unless they at least make something. I just make sure that its as low as possible.

    I bought 3 cars (for myself and family and friends) since July, of various makes and this always works.
    Good luck.
    Steve
  • I drove home a 2013 Sonata GLS - IRIDESCENT SILVER BLUE PEARL
    with PEP +
    Auto Dimming RearView Mirror with HomeLink and Compass
    Carpeted Floor mats
    Cargo Mat
    Cargo Net
    Rear Bumper Protector
    Wheel Locks

    MSRP with add ons + dest -> 23,090

    Invoice for above -> 22,045
    Hyundai Financing rebate -> -1500
    Competitive Owner rebate-> -500
    Dealer Discount (holdbacks etc.) ->-1445

    Total -> 18600

    OTD -After taxes and fees 20,045

    Steve, Michelle, Brian, Sanket, UnivRebel and others - Thanks for providing valuable data from our posts.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,732
    If the sales rep ever did accept my offer on the spot without having to get management involved (which has never happened by the way), but if it did happen, I would walk.

    I see. So you are fine in using deceptive buying practices. You make an offer, it is accepted, then you retract the offer and leave. Sorry, you just lost me there. Good luck to you.

    btw, there's a chain of dealerships (including a Hyundai store) in my area where management NEVER gets involved in a deal. The sales people have total responsibility for each transaction, from working with the customer on which vehicle (and they can sell a vehicle from any of the chain's many stores, from many makes), agreeing to a price, arranging for financing, and discussing add-ons like extended warranties. You only see one person for the entire transaction. So if you are looking to always have an offer taken to management, you may have to strike some dealerships off your list.
  • saz25saz25 Posts: 152
    I am far from deceptive. I am very respectful throughout the process. As I said, it has never happened where my offer was accepted by the sales rep immediately. With the pricing I come up with, it can't happen.

    I also do my research. There is one dealer in my area where the is no negotiating. The prices are clearly displayed. I have a strategy for dealing with such dealers. I don't shop there, period. I would also not shop at a dealer as you mention where management is not allowed to get involved. Its as simple as that.

    I haven't met anyone yet who gets a better deal on a car than I can. I help others to do the same and to be respectful.
    Steve
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,732
    Sorry, but IMO it's not respectful nor honest to be ready to renege on an oral contract if it's accepted too quickly for your taste. If you ever run into a situation where your initial offer is accepted by the sales person, I hope you will do the right thing and accept their offer, rather than walk out.
  • IMHO, $20,000 OTD is a good price for a GLS with PEP. Enjoy your new car.

    I haven't closed my deal yet. Hopefully, I will do it by Jan 2.

    I got an estimate for extended warranty (Warranty Direct) for 10 years/100,000 miles for $990 ($100 ded/visit). I am not sure whether it is worth getting this one or not ? I haven't obtained a decent number of comments here. I am still researching about it elsewhere.
  • Thanks, was offered a 10y/ 100k warranty with 50$ deductible for 13xx$. I think this warranty covers above and beyond what hyundai already covers. I declined, though. I bought the car in north texas.
  • Which dealership in N TX?
    I ought mine at Freeman Irving after Van Hyundai dealer did not agree on lowering price.
    Van Hyundai wanted me to pay 20k before taxes.

    I settled on 19k before taxes with Freeman.
    OTD is about 20300.
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