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Older S-10's

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  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Probably so ! Any hose routing sticker
    under the hood? Something as simple as
    a loose or cracked vac. hose could be
    the problem . Especially on a older
    vehicle ! You may have got lucky !....Geo
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    I don't remember if that engine is fuel-injected or has a carb....pretty sure it is FI.

    If it is a fuel-injected engine, loosing power at acceleration yet running smooth at idle is a definite sign of a weak fuel pump. If it runs worse or the pump is noisy when the gas tank is nearly empty, that is another sign of a weak pump.

    Check the fuel pressure; if it is out of spec, change the pump and the fuel filter. ONLY go with an AC-Delco pump. Avoid the Made-in-Malasyia no-name parts out there---you don't want to do this twice. The new pump should come with a new O-ring and a screen--if not, replace those also.

    After you replace the pump and the filter, put a can of BG 44K in the gas tank. If you can't find it in your area, go to www.cambridgeauto.com, and click on the link for Ryno products. Yes, I know it lists for $20 per can, but it is worth every penny. This stuff is not sold on late-night TV by retired actors--this is the stuff that professional shops use every day. It cleans the excess carbon off the back of your intake valves. This restores compression and lowers temperatures on the valves and in the intake manifold.

    As for the earlier suggestion to check vacuum lines, that is a good idea, but I would go even further. On a truck that old, I would go to the parts store and buy about 3-5 feet of the three most common sizes of vacuum hose. Remove ONE VACUUM HOSE AT A TIME, match it to the closest size of hose, and replace it. Keep going until you replace all of them. If you find a broken 'T' connector, replace that, also. You'll be amazed how hard and brittle the existing hoses are. You will also likely notice an improvement in overall performance because most of those hard, brittle hoses leaked a small amount of vacuum. When you add up their total vacuum loss, it is significant. This is also VERY cheap preventive maintenance, expecially considering that an open vacuum leak can destroy a $50-100 oxygen sensor.

    Good luck!

    Joe
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Thanks a bunch for your posts!

    Guess what, Sonja? You were on the money with your cat converter suggestion! That's what it was.

    I took a vacation day today to have my sick little S-10 seen about. Went to the shop down at the end of the road and had the fuel filter replaced. Also, the mechanic found where that vacuum line connected to. It was for the EGR valve and went into some round thing.

    I was really optimistic that one or both of those simple things would be the solution, but when I took a test drive, I almost didn't make it back to the shop!

    The mechanic drove the truck and then told me that he suspected that the converter was the problem, so I took it to a muffler shop about six miles away.

    What a trip that was! The engine died at a stoplight only about a mile and a half from the shop where the fuel filter had been replaced, and I had a hard time getting it started again. After it finally started, I had to drive at about 25 MPH, and it almost wouldn't even do that.

    I got about a quarter mile from the muffler shop, and got caught by another light. The engine died as soon as I pushed in the clutch at the stoplight, and this time it wouldn't start.

    I had to push the truck the rest of the way, with about half of the distance being slightly downhill, thank God.

    The truck is running fine now. Glad that's over with!

    Thanks again, you guys!

    tom
  • pmjdepmjde Posts: 4
    Anyone have any knowledge of a source of a whistleing sound coming from the engine compartment, Sounds like maybe a brake booster???
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    A bad brake booster would more likely be a hissing noise. A whistling noise would depend on what the conditions are.

    Joe
  • pmjdepmjde Posts: 4
    Whistleing sound is at idle goes away when engine speeds up. I have checked all vacum hoses and cannot find leak
  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    If your gas mileage or driveability are affected, I would suspect the gasket at the base of the throttle body where it attaches to the intake manifold. If they are not affected, you may have a gasket with a small crack, but is not large enough yet to affect your gas mileage.

    I've heard some of the 5.7 engines are having trouble with a collapsing gasket at the base of the throttle body. Since the 4.3 is basically a 5.7 engine with two cylinders removed, they may use the same gasket.

    If you have a tach on the truck, have someone watch the tack at idle, and spray carb cleaner or WD-40 around the throttle body. If you suddenly get a significant change in RPM, you have found your leak.

    Good luck!

    Joe
  • 91 chevy S10 2wd

    On my way home today when I push the brake pedal and it travels a little further than normal. I pumped the brake a few more times and the brake light turned on on the dash. I knew I lost fluid so when I got home I checked the master cylinder and sure enough one half was empty. I filled and pumped brakes again so I could find the leak - brake fluid dripping out of right rear drum. I replaced the wheel cylinder that was bad and now heres where it gets tricky.

    After I installed the new wheel cylinder and put the brakes back together, I tried to pressure bleed the rear wheels. The new wheel cylinder wasn't a problem. About four trips of the brake pedal and all the air was gone. I loosed the bleed screw on the old wheel cylinder and barely any fluid came out. I tried pressure bleeding this side a few times and nothing. Finally I took the bleed screw out and then I finally got a little fluid to come out but not much.

    I tried the pedal and it is stiffer than it was but still not right. The brake light is still on on the dash. I know my front brakes are okay so I'm not too worried but I still have some air trapped in the rear lines. Any ideas on things to try to get it out? I suspect something may be clogged on my left rear wheel cylinder so I may replace that tomorrow but I'd like to avoid it if possible.

    I also posted this on the Maintenance and Repair board but I thought I would try here too.

    Thanks
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    How is the master cylinder split? Is one compartment for the front and one for the back? Or is it split right front/left rear and left front/right rear? Ain't no mechanic, so this may be a dumb question. Looks like you would want it split the latter way, so that you would get some braking in both the front and rear if one system went out.

    Guess that really is irrelevant to your problem anyway, huh?

    tom
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    The guy at the muffler shop said that sometimes when the converter plugs, the heat builds up so much in the heads that it ruins the spark plugs and can even melt the spark plug wires. Guess that wasn't the case with my truck, though, cause it's running well and just got 25.3 MPG on a trip when I drove about 75 MPH most of the time.

    Still lovin' that little truck! I have now put 9000 miles on it since buying it in July when it had 134,502 miles on it.

    I don't think I have put any more money into it than a guy should expect to have to spend when he buys a vehicle with that many miles on it.

    So far, I have had two U joints, the heater fan motor, the serpentine belt, the water pump, the thermostat, the fan clutch, and the catalytic converter replaced.

    I have had a couple non-mechanical problems fixed also. The flat part of the bench sear was reupholstered and a star in the windshield was repaired.

    There aren't too many things left that I might expect to have to deal with. I suppose the starting motor, alternator, fuel pump, and the heater core might be some of the next things that might go. Will be needing a brake job before too long also.

    Since I only paid $2450 for the truck, including tax and license and all, I still think I have some nice, reliable, cheap transportation in that little S-10.

    tom
  • The master cylinder is split between the front and the rear. Luckily, the problem I had was with the rear so I still had full front brakes which do about 70% of the work anyway. I bled my rear lines again last night and things seem a little better and the brake light is off now.

    The brakes seem a little touchy now. My right front caliper seems to lock up pretty quick. My brake fluid is dirtier than sin even after adding all new fluid in the front half of the master cylinder. In spring, I'm going to completely redo the brakes all around so I only have to live with it for a few more months.
  • gmdronegmdrone Posts: 78
    Just a thought, I had some problems a while ago with a brake line (flexible rubber) that had collapsed internally. It took a lot of problem solving to find it, but eventually it showed up because I couldn't get the caliper to release, and yet when I loosened the bleed screw, it would pass fluid just fine. Perhaps somewhere in there you've got a little flap of rubber plugging the hose up!
  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    tsjay-
    i sold my s-10 today. a guy gave me $2,500 for it. he's going to use it for fishing trips and such, so it's going to be happy in its old age- its definitely used to fishing trips! lol
    i am going to give the guy the url here and we can see how long it will run and maybe get another addict to our group here. should be interesting. update- the shimmy in first gear has gone since the tightening of those bolts. the mechanic said if there was a problem at all, it could be a little something off kilter in the tranny. well, apparently there is nothing at all "off kilter" because the shimmy had vanished and it runs like new. i hope its new owner gets another hundred thousand out of her. i will stick around and chat with you guys, even though i dont own it anymore...think of me as a FUTURE older s-10 owner. :)
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Congrats on selling the S-10. I hope the new owner really will join us in here and let us know how the truck is doing.

    I have now put almost 9500 miles on mine since I bought it this past summer. It has 143,9xx miles on it now. Running great since I had the cat converter replaced.

    tom
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Good to hear its running fine !
    It was the cat. convt. right?
    Drive Happy!.............Geo
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Check post number 244. I told you there that you were right about the catalytic converter and thanked you for your advice.

    Thanks again! That puppy is running fine now.

    tom
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Well, when I got about a mile from work on the way home last night, the old odometer rolled over on 144,000. The truck is really running well since the cat converter was changed.

    I now have an anifreeze leak, though. It has leaked ever since I had the water pump replaced, so I'll take it back to the boys at the shop down the road who changed the pump for me. I'm sure they will take care of it for me.

    tom
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    It was a either a bad gasket or they botched the job when they put the water pump on for me. They fixed the problem, and they didn't charge me anything. I knew those boys would take care of me! They are "good old boys" down there at that shop.

    I had them put some new brake pads on the front for me while they had the truck. They said the rotors were in real good shape and didn't need to be turned. Also said I caught it just at the right time, because there wasn't much left of the old pads, but they hadn't gotten down to the point that they were scarring the rotor.

    tom
  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    help me out here. remember when i accidentally shifted into reverse while driving? well i got the fluid and filter changed after that and in the last 2 weeks or so i notice a growling noise...much like the noise you get when you put a manual tranny in too high a gear for the speed youre going...sounds like bogging down sorta. except this happens in my 2000 Ranger with auto tranny and 18k miles. any idea what this noise is? it doesnt seem to mater the conditions...it does it when its downshifting, mostly, but also when accelerating. also i have noticed that when i start it on a hill and put it in gear it sorta shudders a bit, like it wanted to stall. this is annoying to say the least. i know it isnt an older s-10 but i trust you guys' opinions and knowledge. help me out here!
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I would take it to a dealer. It's under warranty, right? I would not assume that your little "mistake" has anything to do with the problem. It COULD HAVE, I suppose, but it is not necessarily related to that incident at all.

    It may be downshifing too late, and this would cause your engine to bog down. This could even be a computer problem, since the shifting of the modern day auto trannies is computer controlled.

    tom
  • mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Posts: 172
    thanks for the fast reply. youre right...it does seem to downshift late and when i stomp on it to go up a hill or something, it does take forever to shift (if at all.)
    so its just a adjustment huh? well under the hood is a sticker that says the PCM was repleced already. (powertrain control module). sounds like a frequent problem. maybe itll happen again and i can get a new FX4 or something, under the lemon law...lol yeah right.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hi Everyone! Just wanted to let you folks know that I have now put 10,000 miles on my little truck since buying it on 7/16/01. It had 134,502 on it when I bought it, and this past Monday on the way to work, the odometer rolled over to 144,502.

    I am so happy with that truck! I've had to have a few things taken care of, but they have been things that you could only expect an old truck like that to need. These things included the following:

    Front and Rear U-Joints
    Heater Fan
    Water Pump
    Fan Clutch
    Catalytic Converter

    I bought the truck with tax, license, and all for $2450, and it has probably already paid for itself by keeping those 10K miles from being put on my 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport.

    It runs as smooth as a sewing machine, gets great gas mileage, and it is all a guy could ask for in a work truck.

    tom
  • havent posted since October however I havent forgotten about this site! I have a 91 S-10 I bought in May, paid 3950 for it as it had only 48K miles. As of today I have 54K on it and havent had any problems with it. I has the 2.8 with the 5-sp man. tahoe pkg, no air, power windows or cruise. I use it on the week-end only to haul stuff, i.e. dirt, mulch, wood. Have done a few things to it, put on new monroe sensimatic shocks,load-levelers on the rear, installed a tach and have changed all the fluids and replaced the belts and hoses as well as the vaccum lines. Also put a set of BFG Long Trail TA's on (205 75R14) I also recently put in a hypertech chip and a k&n air filter. It seems to help the performance, havent tried it with premium fuel like they reccomend since I have no pinging using 89 octane. On another site they reccomended that when you install the K&N filter you flip the air cleaner cover to let nore air in. I've done this and it seems to help although I cant qunatify it. Recently bought a Delco am/fm cd player off of ebay. It was out of a 96 Camaro, it fits in the dash with no problem however the radio harness plug in my truck is different from the plugs on the back of the new radio. Any suggestions on where to find an adapter? Any Help would be appreciated.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Brent how do you like the tires? Are they good in snow? Where did you get em and how much?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    About time we heard from you again! Hope you ain't gonna wait that long again before your next post!

    I'll bet you love to hear stuff like I and others here have posted about our high mileage S-10's being so reliable. I love to hear about people with over 200K on their S-10's. I sure plan on getting all the mileage that I can out of mine.

    That was sure a lucky find on your part, getting one with so few miles on it.

    Oh, I don't know what to tell you about your wiring harness, but I have heard that the people at www.crutchfield.com are real nice and offer lots of advice. They may even have an adapter that will work.

    tom
  • usn1usn1 Posts: 1
    ..ok, I bought my 1986 S-10 Blazer, 4x4, Tahoe Pkg, 2.8 V-6 brand new...I have 176,000 miles on it so far..had the transmission overhauled at about the 130,000 mile mark...uses about 1/2 to 1/3 quarts of oil between oil changes.. I usually change the oil at the 3 to 4 thousand mile mark...changed all vacuum hoses at about 140,000 mark...still drives good...want to keep it till it quits, but at the same time, I want an 8 cyclinder silverado pick-up..I know if I sell it I will probably regret it..it is the first one I had bought new..been driving it for 16 yrs now..I don't know how much longer I'll keep it..it has been a good one so far...
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    "I know if I sell it I will probably regret it"

    Yep my mom sold her 87 blazer in may of 2000. She ordered it factory new in 1986. To this day she still talks about it. We see it occasionally. Sold it when it had 135K on it. Never had any problems
  • Hi all,

    91 2wd 4.3L - 157k miles (50k on engine #2)

    Right now, I have a set of air adjustable shocks on the rear of the trunk and they were ok for a few years but they leak now and are starting to bother me. I tow a 1700# trailer quite often so I need a set of shocks that can handle a decent load and keep the rear off the ground. I kinda get sick of putting air into the air adjustable shocks so I am looking for a standard heavy duty shock. Any suggestions?
  • I also have a 91 S-10 and I put a pair of Monroe Sens-a-Matic Load Levelers on mine in July. I have no complaints I don't haul a trailer very often but I do haul dirt and mulch and these do a great job of keeping the rear end from dragging on the ground and the ride is good when the bed is empty. I paid around $120 for the pair but they are well worth it.
  • I like my BFG Long Trail T/A's-they have done real well in what little snow we've had this year, of course it doesn't hurt that I put 4-70 lbs bags of sand in the back. I got them at the tire rack in So. Bend, paid $58.00 apiece.
This discussion has been closed.