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How it Works! Welcome to Auto 101

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  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm with 0patience, check the float level first. Then timing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,501
    Hi irvney,

    I'm going to move your post about better tires for your SL to here:

    Tires, Tires, Tires

    I think you'll get more response there. See you over there!

    MrShiftright
    Host

    MODERATOR

  • i have a 94 regal. 2 injectors are not getting any elect. got any ideas what it could be.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,501
    Hi sprchrgr1,

    Why not post this over in our TECHNICAL QUESTIONS.

    You are more likely to get a response. Also, put in more detail. Is this a 3.1 or 3.8 engine? How did you test the injectors?

    MODERATOR

  • sk2b1sk2b1 Posts: 5
    New to all this and hopefully a quick learner. Purchase 05 Basic Impala-70K- last August and has NO apparent, initial problems.Did have 2 "slipping" incidents in Jan. Slipped from a stop and then "caught" and was fine. Recently- last 2 months- the "TranActive" light came on while backing out from a parking spot on dry pavement. Most recently- 2 weeks ago, trans would not up shift from 1st, but goes into neutral. Problem is somewhat intermittant. Will improve once car is warmed up. Usually, trans will shift under very slow acceration, but not always. AAMCO did test and said they found the 1811 code and said to be prepared for a $2500 repair bill. Currently am unemployed and cant afford that. Understand about "power-flushing" and wonder of that is worth a try.

    I am not opposed to doing any possible work myself and certainly have the time to do so. Suggetions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,501
    This code suggests some kind of pressure problem, bad seals, bad oil pump, etc. Doing an R&R and busting down this automatic to inspect everything is a formidable task for anyone not familiar with them, so you'll need to arm yourself with tools and a workshop manual and a very clean place to work.

    No harm in changing the oil, or using an additive--who knows, might help?

    You have to have a scan tool and a step by step diagnostic tree to guide you along.

    MODERATOR

  • sk2b1sk2b1 Posts: 5
    Do you think the power flush is worth the $? Have read some posts about circuit integrity which do make sense- mostly by fordfan- as well as the pressure problem you mentioned. I really dont have the space to do the breakdown, but could if there are external parts to replace....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,501
    I'm not real keen on power flushing, no, especially on an older and ailing transmission. I'd rather you changed the oil and added a conditioner.

    MODERATOR

  • sk2b1sk2b1 Posts: 5
    recommendations on the conditioner?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,501
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Try Lubegard Red... or the pre-flush conditioner.
  • kbc6313kbc6313 Posts: 3
    Our '97 Montero Sport just started having a brake issue. When you first get into it, the pedal is fine and everything works great. After a few miles, the brakes start dragging and it gets increasingly worse until you just pull over. The first time it happened to our son and he was only about 5-8 miles from our house. He was getting a couple of tanks of propane filled. By the time he was done paying, it was okay again. He returned home and told me about it. I took it out for just a bout 5 or so miles and saw no symptoms. The next evening, we took it out for another drive Round trip had to be about 30 miles, but we did have a 10 minute stop in between. We did not really notice the dragging, but we did notice the pedal got much higher (very little play). It could have been dragging a little, but I had my wife driving because it is her car and thought she would notice the differences better. The only thing she noticed was the decresed play in the pedal. My son was again driving it to school the next morning and he only made it about 7 miles before they started dragging really bad. I went and took him to schood. We were going to have it towed, but by the time we got back it was again normal so we drove it home. Since I was unsure of which wheels may have issues, I went out that evening and I jacked up all 4 corners and they turned freely. Tonight I drove the car around here for maybe 5 or so miles. I did some start and stops and some normal braking, but I did not drag the brakes on anything out of normal. I noticed the pedal play getting shorter so I headed towards the house. By the time I got home, it was dragging pretty bad. I then jacked up all 4 corners and every wheel was locked up if you were just trying to spin by hand. Since it is pretty much all 4 wheels reacting the same, I am thinking the master cylinder or the booster. Anyone experienced this before. I wouldn't think it would be the rubber lines since it is affecting all 4 wheels equally, but I am guessing there could also be a valve that is getting clogged and acting like a check valve.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, I would have said a rubber brake hose is collapsing inside and not relieving the pressure. But, when you said all for wheel seem locked - I don't know.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't know anything specific to your model vehicle. However, the symptoms are common and similar to defective wheel calipers, except normally you would detect the problem on the fronts (which do the majority of the braking).

    Moisture and crude gets into the brake system, and collects down in the calipers, behind the pistons. It can corrode the inside of the caliper. The problem usually surfaces after a brake pad change, when the pistons are pressed back into the caliper (required to make room for the thicker brake pads). Pressing the piston back, forces the piston back onto the area of crude and corrosion, and the piston begins to stick and not 'float freely' as required.

    Putting on the brakes puts tremendous hydraulic pressure on the piston, and it is able to force the piston out okay. However when you take your foot off of the pedal, the piston isn't able to float back and the pad stays engaged with the rotor. Your rotors start to get very hot (and can warp), you can usually smell the overheating, and the brakes stay engaged. Pads wear out quickly.

    I usually replace the calipers with every 2nd set brake pad change. They're cheap enough, easy to do. Flush the fluid with every change.

    How old are those calipers? and how often have you flushed the brake fluid?

    If this was my vehicle, I'd do a complete brake job replacing all calipers, pads, fluid, and rotors.
  • kbc6313kbc6313 Posts: 3
    Thanks, but I have looked into both the rotors and calipers. If it was just one or even two different wheels, I would think the calipers could be the issue. I have had those go bad on other vehicles in the past. The fact that I can recreate the problem and they always work fine for a short while then they all fail at the same rate tells me that one of the major components must be failing. That is only a logical guess, but it does not seem to be related to one or two of the wheels and their components.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well okay. If you have moisture and crud in the hydraulic, you could easily have multiple calipers failing. They'll turn when they are cold, but as they're driven they'll heat up the rotor which will expand, and they'll drag more and more. The more they drag, the hotter they get, the tighter they get.

    You haven't indicated that you've done previous maintenance of flushing hydraulics or replacing calipers, so for a vehicle as old as that is.....those calipers would be my first suspect. Compare the color of the hydraulic fluid with new clear fluid. Calipers are a simple change, and you need to start with the basics

    Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If all 4 wheels are having a problem at the same time, I also feel there is a problem upstream from the wheels.

    Like the ABS system is completely screwed up. Is there a Check Engine Light turned on? If so, have you checked the code? Or, is the Brake Light turned on, or some warning regarding the brake system? On some cars, the ABS braking system is a separate 'code setting' system from the main Check Engine Light, and sometimes even has a separate plug to access the codes.
  • kbc6313kbc6313 Posts: 3
    I do not have any ABS or warning lights of any kind. The more I think about it, I am leaning towards the booster. The fact that the pedal decreases in travel at the same time the pressure is also being applied to the calipers makes it appear that I have an increasing pressure issue. I stuck piston in the master cylinder could cause the brakes to drag, but I would not think it would also affect the brake pedal pressure. I am definitely far from an expert or I would know the problem. That is why I am seeing if anyone else has experienced such a thing before. I know that as everything heats up the issue will just get worse, but it is never driven long once the dragging is initially felt, It gets progressivly worse very quickly once it starts and is somewhat intermittent at first. I can re-create it more quickly now. I haven't fluhed the system and I will do that jsut because it can't hurt anything and is probably not a bad idea in this case. If anyone has anyone has any more thoughts, I am always willing to learn. Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Brake booster or master cylinder.

    Are you sure all 4 wheels are dragging or locking up? A corroded caliper piston (I had one of those) may not allow the brake pad to retract from the disc, but that would keep the brakes on 2 of the 4 wheels pressurized. Same thing for a caliper slide or corroded surface the caliper slides on.

    Yes, you should flush the system. But if something has already been corroded, flushing will probably not fix the problem.
  • Let me preface by saying I have never rebuilt an engine before, but I'm not afraid to try! That said, I've removed the engine from my 1969 Triumph and have also removed nearly everything from the block itself (alternator, distributor, carburetors, oil filter, fuel pump, rocker cover)...

    But the engine is still really gunky, so before I begin to dismantle the major engine parts I want to clean it well. The Hanes manual is very careful to point out that you should clean the engine before it is dismantled because you don't want any of that gunk getting in your engine. Ok... But with so many other parts removed, chemical cleaner or gunk is bound to get inside the engine.

    How careful do I need to be to not get cleaner or gunk inside the engine? Is this even a problem since I am going to strip the engine all the way down and will have a chance to clean it as I go?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If you are going to strip the block down 'all the way' I don't see the need to worry about anything. Take it to a carwash, and turn the hot soapy water on the thing. If you've got a place at home you don't mind a greasy spot with dead grass, spray or dab kerosene all over it and turn the hose on it. Do this several time and it will come clean. If you want to be a little 'greener', buy some Simple Green, which supposedly does not have any hydro-carbons, and spray it on. It does a pretty good job of de-greasing.

    Now, if you are going to let this block sit over in a corner for a year or so, maybe you should not fill it up with water or Simple Green (I don't think kerosene will hurt, it's greasy enough that it actually will give some protection) and let it just sit. Rust might form somewhere that might cause a problem.

    I'm actually wondering why you are worried about this? Just take it apart. I think most machine shops will run it thru a de-greasing vat before they start the boring, etc machining.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,501
    Also it's a good idea to use compressed air to blow out the various galleys, passages, etc after you have cleaned it.

    If the block and head need machine work, these parts are going to get "hot-tanked" anyway by the machine shop.

    Cleanliness is of primary importance to a successful rebuild, not only because of dirt contamination, but because you can SEE if there are defects that need attention. Some little cracks or stresses are very subtle and on some pile of greased-up metal, you'll never see them.

    Also carefully examine all the bolts, nuts and studs that you remove and replace or repair them as necessary.

    Even though this is an old car you should have no trouble finding all the parts you need. There is a pretty good aftermarket for most British sportscars.

    This is a very simple engine and a good one for your first job. Be sure to find a reliable machine shop to assist you and don't "cheap out" on any internal engine parts.

    MODERATOR

  • I left my Buick Regal parked for 3 months and when I started driving it again, the ABS light was on so I had the brakes replaced. Now it comes on sometimes, sometimes it doesn't. Any suggestions on what else I could try cheaply to solve the problem?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    For sure I would not take it back to the mechanic that replaced your brakes.

    ABS light very seldom (or every) should have anything to do with needing brakes.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited February 2010
    The ABS system, has sensors on each of the wheels, which detects individual wheel speed. I guess a good analogy would be for you to picture a bicycle sprocket. As you turn the pedals, a sprocket turns that has teeth. A sensor picks up the metal teeth going by, and from that knows how fast the sprocket is turning.

    There are a number of things that are checked by the ABS system that could turn on the ABS error light, but one of the common things is when the computer detects that it isn't receiving the signal from one of the sensors. One of the things you could check, is whether each of the sensors looked like it is mounted correctly, and the connectors are tight.

    A dealership can check those (and the rest of the ABS system) by hooking up a service computer to the vehicle computer......and testing each of the ABS system compenents. You should really consider having the dealership properly diagnose the problem, as opposed to randomly replacing brake parts.
  • Thanks for your great analogy! With what you have told me and the information I found at the ABS page on the freeautomechanic.com website, I think I understand now. I was beginning to think that ABS might mean something besides anti-lock brake system. It just seems weird to me that sometimes I can drive it for a few days without the light being on and then for several days it just stays lit. Almost makes me wonder if it should be lit all the time and it might just be a loose bulb that makes it go off on occasion. I think I will take it to the dealership to see what they say. I haven't noticed any problems at all with my brakes whether the light is on or not but since I have young daughters who ride around with me, I want to be sure they are safe.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,114
    edited February 2012
    A reporter is looking to hear from consumers who own a "code reader" - either an app or an appliance that allows the user to tap into his/her car's diagnostic system to understand why the Check Engine light etc is on, and perhaps shut it off. If you have used one of these apps or systems and are willing to share your story with a reporter, please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Monday, March 5, 2012 with your daytime contact information.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

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