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Oldsmobile Aurora: Modifications

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  • Just got to thinking... On the Bose setup, is there anyway to run a mono amp that would run after the factory amp.? Where the 4 wires run to the factory subwoofer? I know that the connections would be diff. Maybe if I combined the 4 wires, red/red and green/green, into 2 RCA plugs into the aft.mkt. amp and have it power one or two 12" subwoofers in the trunk?

    I am satified with the speakers in the car, just looking for something heavier in the trunk.
  • jerridjerrid Posts: 5
    hey i nead performance mods for my 1998 aurora v8 just buying it so short on cash main thing neaded is a chip so if any one could help me i would be very thaink full
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    ...no performance mods for the Aurora. Don't know if there's a chip for the ODB-II ('96 and up) cars, doubt that it would help you highly. domesticperformance.com claims to offer some items - but nothing cheap.

    Here is what I recommend (I've done everything but the Corsa):

    1) Gut the airbox per Greg Garnes' instructions (search for CaddyInfo airbox mod).
    2) Put a K&N panel filter in
    3) Make sure you've got good plugs and wires in the vehicle. Avoid non-AC Delco as they are problematic in Northstars.
    4) save your money ($1k) for a Corsa Exhaust (http://www.corsaperf.com)

    If you have an "Autobahn" package Aurora (look for option code QQX on the RPO build sheet), you will have taller gearing (= faster car) and no speed limiter.

    Sorry I couldn't give you better news.

    --Robert
  • keepakeepa Posts: 1
    ive recently purchased a 200sx series 2, and i was wondering if anybody could help me out with any cheap mods, as i have a tight budget i was wondering if any1 could post any ideas
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    I would recommend a giant Type R and/or GTR stickers. Those add 15 horsepower per sticker and vary depending on size, obviously bigger is better!

    Way to stumble onto the wrong forum buddy!!!!! :shades:
  • bryanbryan Posts: 217
    and I nearly cried. Bright yellow, the color that the closer you get, the more mustardly it is. :cry:

    I was in Delaware passing through the small town of Greenwood. I will say it was very clean, beautiful chrome aftermarket wheels, but the color was just sooooo wrong for such a beautiful piece of machinery.

    Now, interesting is that in this same town I have seen a Chrysler LHS (mid-90s, IIRC), in a wild purple/teal metallic paint combo that changed color depending upon the angle you view the car from. Now that I think of it, I haven't seen that car if a few months. I wonder if the Auroro took its place???
  • alarming9alarming9 Posts: 10
    Ryan,

    I have a 97. Where is the IAT located? Is it the sensor mounted to the top of the air cleaner assy. or is it on the intake just before the throttle body? Thanks

    ......Stuart
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    It cant be worse than the Classic I saw in New Brunswick, NJ about a year and a half ago. The car had so many stickers and taped on chrome that the car looked like the guy brought the car from Sanford and Son Autos. Hey Fred!
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    I don't know why someone would place stickers on a Classic Aurora.

    Javi
    Member
    "Aurora Club Of North America"
  • what brand of air shock did you use to replace to worn out ones on the aurora with and you did use a manual fill kit also correct? Will you give me the brand and the shock number and manual fill kit number and where you bought them. Mine went bad the compressor and one shock so trying to find a replacement for them with out having to spend an arm and a leg to get it fixed.
    I have a 1996 aurora. Adavane auto say they carry a replacement but it hooks to the stock lines and that wont work for me since i am not fixing the compressor. Can any one help me???
    thanks bob
  • Foud the replacement air shocks ( with a manual fill kit included) for the rear of a 1996 olds aurora. From rockauto.com they are monroe brand part # MA822 57.79 dollars complete.
    So with this kit you dont have to mess with putting in a new compressor also. Just put on the shocks and the manual air fill kit, fill them up and you are ready to go. compressor elimated and saves a ton of money. You just have to put the correct amount of air you want and go. You can regulate the height your self with amount of air.
  • I have been trying to locate a custom hood for my aurora, prefferrably fiberglass but steel will do fine also,cowl or ram air,but have had no luck, tried searching the web,checked numerous fiberglass companies websites to no avail. Maybe someone on here can help me locate one for my ride. Have seen the scoops that you can mold to the stock hood but would much rather have a functional cowl or ram air hood instead. Has anyone on here seen an Aurora with an aftermarkehood?? thanks, john
  • I've not seen an aftermarket hood on an Aurora, but i'd imagine a subtle one would look impressively aggressive.

    Ideas like these make me wish I had my own body shop. I'd love to custom make both you and I one. Maybe i'll look around at some camaro type hoods to draw some inspiration.
  • cmcmanuscmcmanus Posts: 19
    Everything on my 95 aurora is stock and as powerful as it is I would still like a bit quiker response and a bit less bog on it's acceleration. I don't want to really do anything drastic like boaring or major engine overhauls but i would like to piss off a lot of little tuner owners. My muscle car needs a workout, please give me some advice.

    ;)
  • cmcmanuscmcmanus Posts: 19
    I'd also like an airscooped style hood for my 95 but can't find one either. Do you think a ram air hood from a grand prix could be retrofitted?
    :confuse:
  • tjm97tjm97 Posts: 27
    There are very few mods for the Aurora. The air box mod with a K&N air filter surely helps. A hi-flow exhaust can help with power too but too big may actually hurt low-end torque. If you want quicker off the line then about the only thing you can do is to put smaller (yes smaller) tires. Not a very popular thing to do these days but acceleration will definitely improve with less circumference on the tires.
  • tjm97tjm97 Posts: 27
    try domesticperformance $695 I think
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    A 1995 can also be chipped. I did it to my car and it gives me better off the line response. You are looking for the caddy chip for their performance STS cars. IT is a GM product, but I do not know the part number.

    Henri
  • Hi, I'm considering some upgrades for my '97 Aurora and I'm hoping that someone can help me with answers to the following questions:

    1) Do the KYB GR-2 struts for the 95-96 Aurora work with the '97? Any mods required? There is no listing for struts for the '97 in the KYB catalog and KYB won't guarantee that the 95-96 ones will work.

    2) Should I get thicker sway bars (front & rear), strut tower bars (front & rear) or both? Where can I get thicker sway bars?

    3) Should I get 17" or 18" rims? Don't won't too much of a harsher ride over stock...and what tires are recommended for the larger rims?

    4) Would the RSM throttle body and air induction mods make a significant difference to performance? Would gas mileage by adversely affected (reduced)?

    5) Would like new double barrel chrome exhaust tips. Any suggestions? Should I get muffler and tip combination? If so, any recommendations?

    6) Anyone replaced stock bulbs with PIAAs? If so, do these bulbs make a significant difference? Thinking of 9005/9006 Xtreme White Plus and 168/3156 Xtreme White bulbs.

    7) Anyone have experience with tire pressure monitors? Anything out there as good as or better than SmartTire?

    8) Other possible mods - Rain Tracker rain sensitive wipers, front and rear parking assist monitors, Ecliple AVN5435 Navigation with DVD/CD player and optional back up camera. Hope to keep my Aurora (now with 67K miles/108000 km) for another five years at least but sometimes I'm tempted to forego the above upgrades and replace the '97 with a 2001 or 2002 Aurora. Very interesting prices here in Canada. I've looked at a fully equipped 2002 V6 in mint condition (with ALL possible options and Diamond White color, 24K miles/39000 km and 3 year GM extended warranty) for about 18K CDN/15K US. I've also looked at a fully equipped 2002 V8 in very good condition (with Diamond White color, 58K miles/93000 km) for about 14K CDN/12K US. Sigh!

    Colin Banfield
  • Colin,

    I can address some of your questions:

    1) I went down the same road with KYB struts and Bilstein lowering springs. No one could tell me that the earlier parts would work with my '97. I was not willing to take the risk to find out. I replaced my struts with Monroe SensaTrac and the rear shocks with stock ACDelco air shocks.

    2) I replaced my stock rear anti-sway bar with a 22mm one from 1998-2004 Cadillac STS FE3. I was not able to find a larger GM front bar. I have considered the RSM front and rear strut/shock tower bars, but they are expensive and I haven't gone for them.

    3) I replaced my stock 16x7" wheels with 17x7.5 wheels from a 2001 V8 Aurora. Tires are Continental 255-50-ZR17 100W ContiExtremeContact. The Contis are great (dry, rain, snow) with good tread-life rating. One of our members, Javidogg, is running Enkei 20x8.5 wheels with 255-35-20 tires. Whatever you choose, I suggest you maintain the stock tire diameter and load rating (100).

    4) I installed the RSM 80mm throttle body. No reduction in gas mileage. Some improvement in acceleration, although I have not measured it yet. Be careful of RSM and other induction add-ons. All the ones I have seen bypass the stock airbox with a cone-shaped filter. The problem is that they pick up very hot air from the engine compartment. The K&N filter and airbox mods that have been mentioned many times on this discussion are inexpensive and worth a few hp.

    Biggest performance increase without spending megabucks on engine mods is lower restriction exhaust (Corsa or Flowmaster).

    5) I hate chrome IMHO

    8) Our Aurora Classics have unique, beautiful styling. The 2001+ Auroras are virtually indistinguishable (except for the aggressive front end) from a dozen other slab-sided sedans. The decision is yours.

    Les
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    "The 2001+ Auroras are virtually indistinguishable (except for the aggressive front end) from a dozen other slab-sided sedans."

    Hmm, the Russian cruise missile vs. the slab-sided sedan.

    You decide! :confuse:
  • Les, Thanks for the input.

    1) It would appear that KYBs are definitely not an option for the '97 Aurora. Are you happy with the SensaTracs? I've read many posts that claim that they are not as good as KYBs.

    2) Will probably use the STS anti-sway bar in the rear and RSM strut tower bar in the front.

    3) Wish I could find 2001-3003 Aurora rims. I'll probably end up with 18" rims and 255/45ZR18 performance tires. 20" rims are insane!!!

    4) Thanks for the tip on the RSM air induction system. Will look into the airbox mod option. As far as lower restriction exhaust is concerned - I've given up on that one. Simply not enough info here or elsewhere indicating the size of piping, noise levels or even how the heck people have adapted exhaust systems to fit the Aurora. I personally called Corsa, Flowmaster & MagnaFlow. ALL have categorily stated that they do NOT carry anything for the '97 Aurora.

    5) I love chrome. However, chrome may not stand out in my champagne colored Aurora.

    6) I agree. I love the styling of the Classic - front and back. I was shocked when I first saw a 2001. Very basic looks for a luxury car. Great if you don't like to stand out in a crowd. Like the new instrument panel though.

    Colin
  • Colin,

    You are welcome.

    1) I am not unhappy with the sensatracs. They are probably not as good as the KYBs, but I have no way to compare them. I expect the sensatracs are about like the stock struts; and they are much better than my stock struts with 98,000 miles on them. I wanted something a bit "sportier," but I could not find it.

    2) If you install the RSM strut tower brace, I'd be interested in your experience with it.

    3) I was extremely lucky. I won an eBay auction for four 2001 Aurora 17" wheels for $202 plus $68 shipping; they were virtually perfect condition. GM list for one is about $550.

    In my earlier post I forgot to mention the autobahn 3.71 final drive. If your Classic is not an autobahn, the ratio is 3.48. Several people have posted about retrofitting the lower gearing (higher numerically), but I do not know if anyone has successfully done it. The cost may be prohibitive.

    Les
  • Les,

    Just rummaged through some old posts. I'm sure that I've looked at these posts about three or four times already but now I'm interested in the Corsa cat-back system for the STS. However, I can't seem to find the mods required to mount on the classic. Can you help? Also, couldn't find the airbox mods at caddyinfo. This is what happens when you come into the forums a few years late!!

    Also, any thoughts on a high flow cat converter? Do they increase emissions?

    Colin
  • Colin,

    My guess is that this product is no less restrictive than stock Classic with the airbox mods and K&N filter element. It would need to suck air from the same place as stock; if not, then the air will be much hotter than ambient.

    Measurements I have made with my scan tool show intake air temp to be 9 to 11 degrees F. higher than DIC outside temp display when traveling at 55 mph and the coolant temp at 200. Intake air temp rises about 1 degree for every 2 degrees the coolant temp goes up. With car at rest or creeping in traffic on a hot day, I have seen the intake air temp over 170 degrees. IIRC the rule of thumb is 1% loss in power for every 10 degrees F increse in temp.

    Les
  • Colin,

    Here's the link to Greg Garnes' airbox mod on caddyinfo.com:

    http://caddyinfo.onedgesolutions.com/dyno/4airboxtest.htm

    Greg and I were exploring the same thing at the same time. He did a nice job of getting his work published. I still want to get a better path to outside air from the front. I've tried to find a path, but have not come up with anything workable. I thought maybe removing the driver side fog light would provide a path; when I pulled it out, I found that cutting the panel behind the fog light would be required and I did not want to do that. An under-the-bumper scoop like the 1968-1969 Olds 4-4-2 W30s would work, but lessen clearance. Hood scoops might work, but I am not going to hack my hood except for something very tasteful, which I haven't seen yet.

    I've reached the limit of my knowledge about exhaust mods, so I can't help you there.

    Les
  • Hi.
    I'm new to this group. Got my 97 with 150,000 km last winter, now at 175,000. Replaced the plugs with AC Delco like everyone advises. Still some roughness but usually smooth and efficient on the highway (I commute 210 km). I plan to replace plug wires and maybe coils.

    1. Do I have to use Delco wires, or does anything else work?
    2. What are good choices for replacement coils?
    3. Has anyone used the Optima R performance module available on eBay? I don't race, just looking for improved power and hopefully fuel economy at cruise.
    4. My front suspension needs replacement. My goals are
    - firm but not harsh shocks
    - reduced roll in turns
    - reduced nose-dive
    What should I look for?
    5. Are there steel rims available for winter tires? I'm in Canada where winter tires are a necessity and alloys may be damaged by road salt and low temperatures.

    Thanks for any advice.
  • If you're looking for struts then your options are OEM or Monroe SensaTracs. I tried in vain to find KYB GR-2s front struts for my '97 but couldn't get confirmation on what would fit. For reduced roll in turns I'd recommend a strut tower bar up front (see link in my last post) and for the rear go with a thicker anti-sway bar (the anti-sway bar for the 1999-2004 Cadillac Seville is a direct replacement for the Aurora rear bar). Also, I undertand that polyurethane end links and center bushings on the sway bars F & R and engine mounts can make a big difference.

    Dunno about steel rims. They are heavier and are worse handling than alloys. I live in Ottawa where we get a fair dump of snow, low temperatures and salt over the winter. The stock alloys on my '97 still look like new (at least on the outside). From now on these will be my winter rims with Michelin X-ICE 215/65R16 tires. For other seasons I'm getting 18" rims and performance tires.

    Colin
  • Colin,

    Thanks for the suspension info. Your idea to get another set of alloys and keep one set for winter makes sense. I'll look into that.
This discussion has been closed.