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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

199100102104105147

Comments

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Someone already answered the reset question.

    You can download an Adobe Acrobat PDF of the Owner's Manual once you register your car at http://www.mygmlink.com

    Or, you can buy a manual from http://www.helminc.com

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I think the issue was the knob on the passenger side window and a stuck motor that redirected the air flow. It was awhile ago and I do not remember the fix. Although I do think I posted the fix back when it first happened. I am assuming you are talking abut a lack of heat since it is December.
    Henri
  • Is the FPR on 1996 Aurora located on driver's side of the engine close to the firewall with a vacume line on top and looks like line from the bottom going into the intake manifold I took this round little gadget apart and it was full of fuel. My car is hard to start when it is warm have to try two or three times before it starts somebody said it might be the FPR auto parts stores in B.C. Canada want anywhere from $150-200 for this part. Thanks for any help in advance
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Sounds like it's right... here's a link to a parts site that has a picture of an FPR - no, this is not the right model for your Northstar-derived engine:

    http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/cadillac~fuel_pressure_regulator~parts.html

    $150-$200 sounds way steep, even in Canadian dollars. IIRC I paid $38 for mine a couple of years ago... but my local Buick dealer gives me discounts (friend of a friend)... Might try calling around to Buick and Cadillac dealers, and see what they quote you (they may want/need your VIN to cross-reference the right part number, I believe there are a couple of different FPR part numbers for different years of Classic Auroras...

    --Robert
  • ramouramou Posts: 84
    Well the backfiring, the hesitation, the cutting out, and the crappy acceleration was all blammed on one of the coil packs, which I had to remove each one individually and swap with the new one ($21), and of course it had to be the 4th and last one I removed/ one closest to the driver...115K miles..so far the TPS, EGR valve (cleaned out) and FPR all been changed as well as the shift selenoids that make you s*** your pants when your car's rpm goes up to 4000 RPM while you're driving...,and of course the infamous fuel rail...that's beside the master cylinder, A/C system, radiator rod out, leaky power steering hose, rear shocks, ...and probably the alternator or the starter will go out next (have you seen where those things are mounted...?yayks..)
  • My '97 Aurora has developed an intermittent stalling problem that typically seems to occur right after the car has reached operating temperature. I'll be at a stop light and the car will just "go dead", no stumbling or hesitation. The car will fire right up - and I'm able to restart without any problem. I have 105K miles on my car and this problem doesn't seem to fit a pattern. It started this past summer - it stalled a couple of times and now with colder weather it occurs every few days. The car has been maintained by the recommended GM schedule, tune-ups, etc. My mechanic can't seem to duplicate the problem and the last time it occured I brought the car into the shop so that the engine computer codes could be checked. My mechanic stated that there were no trouble codes registered!? Any recommendation on how to resolve this problem is appreciated.
  • Hi folks, I suspect my struts/bearings are shot. I just had new tires put on the front and the guy at Dunn tire said it looks as though the struts are probably in need of replacing. I'm going on my own abilities rather than what the store mgr thinks. The car rattles going over bumps and makes a shuddering noise while turning the steering wheel.
    I am going to check my records from the previous owner but I don't think they have ever been changed, and with 140,000 miles it may be time.
    What do you recommend for this 1996 Aurora in the way of struts? I am not Rockefellar so price is an object. Any help would be appreciated.

    paul
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,547
    Watch for a good sale on Monroe struts at Sears. The best is where they don't charge for installation. Ask the salesman when the next good sale is going to start.
  • Hello to all! I am in dire need of advice. I have been around this board for a long time and there are a lot of you have have seen a lot of the Aurora's "quirks". Those quirks, as you know, can be very expensive. Anyway, my problem is this: 97 autobahn, 140k, and wont hold coolant. Leaks like a seive from the back right of the engine. Seems simple, but wait...there is too much crap in the way for me to see EXACTLY where it is coming from. I have it close, though. On the back right of the motor (Looking from the front as you are looking at the motor) there is a aluminum wrapped line of some sort that comes from the right side of the engine and goes into the exhaust. This is wet with coolant. There are also heater hoses that go into the heater core that go into some solid lines which go back to heater hoses that I assume go into the water pump area (hard to see anything) that are wet neer the bottom of their run. Here is the end question...I have torn the coil packs and the cruise and other stuff off the top of the engine to see at least a little bit of the behind of the engine, therefore being unable to start it to see it leak...(if I could without getting coolant in my eyes while trying to manouver a mechanics mirror to see the leak). Does anyone have experience with this...please dont tell me my rear head gasket is leaking. Thanks.
  • ramouramou Posts: 84
    I'm not a mechanic, but do u think it could be an ignition problem or possibly a security problem..? have u tried cleaning the ignition, or have u tried another key..? it could also be a computer problem (hopefully not)...keep us posted if u find out..thanks
  • Sorry but our Sears no longer does auto work. What about the ease of installation??

    paul
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,547
    I don't mess with spring compressors and fight with big bolts like that requires. I don't do alignments either.

    Do any Sears in your area do auto work? We have a few stores that are hardware stores by Sears that don't, but it's a big part of their other stores' gross profits. Do you have NTB that used to be owned by Sears?
  • dinnydinny Posts: 5
    Hi all,

    I have a 1999 Olds Aurora. The A/C is not working, and my garage says the problem is in the "control head". They say it's very expensive to replace! I have found a potential replacement part on e-bay, however, I'm not sure is this is right part. Would anyone know what the GM part number is for this? The part I can buy is the digital display unit with the control knobs, with a mother board in behind. Is this the right part?

    Thanks in advance!

    Sean
  • 1996 Aurora is still hard to start after I changed the fuel pressure regulator, after it finally starts I noticed the idle speed rpm goes up and down by itself (500-800) I also hear some noise from the trunk on the driver's side almos like a small air compressor running the noise stops after about 30 seconds and the rpm stays at 750. The car has 144,000 kms on it. Thanks to Robert and everybody for previous help.
  • I don't like messing with springs either. I forgot about reusing the same springs and having to swith them to the new strut. What can I expect to pay for this job?

    thanks, paul
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,547
    Do some checking parts listings and descriptions at

    Http://www.rockauto.com

    and

    http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

    I would be very careful about what is actually wrong with the unit--whether it's the "head" dash part of the programmer that's down next to the heater box. I don't know if my experience with a 98 LeSabre has the same vacuum controlled unit or if yours is an electrical unit like the 03 LeSabre which seems to be the Seville type body and unit.

    I'd do lots of checking before parting with the money...
    I bought my replacement programmer for $100 at local wrecking yard.

    You can give me an email from address in my profile if you want more info.
  • My in-laws have a 95 Aurora that has run perfectly for them since 1995. They called last night I,had to go get them and have the car towed to the house.

    My Wife and daughter were also with them and the described the symptoms ,the car shuttered, everything lit up on the dashboard, engine stalled,
    they were grateful to be able to pull to the side of the freeway before it shutdown. My daughter said she noticed oil on the garage floor but, not in one spot on when the car was pulled out of the garage for the trip others, said the car sounded louder than usual when on the road and, smelled hot when they reached their destination 70 miles away. The problem happened on the return trip.
    Today you can put your key in the ignition security lights come on all, the electrical works, but the engine won't turn. Any ideas? I love this car and so does my father in law.

    Thank You
  • There is a small air compressor under the trunk. It is part of the electronic level control (ELC) that maintains constant ride height at the rear with changes in load. If it runs excessively, that probably means there is a leak in the rear shock(s) or air hoses.

    Les
  • dinnydinny Posts: 5
    imidazol97,

    Thanks for the info and advice. The garage is telling me a new "control head" costs $1600.00. Surely it's not just the display dash part? I can get a used one on ebay for $100.00. It must be another unit down inside the dash? I'm going to get another opinion on it from another mechanic.

    Sean
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,547
    Send me an email to my address in my profile. Click on my blue name in the title for this post and the profile for the author of the post pops up.
  • ive had the same thing happen with my car (not constantly but enough to tick me off), but the security light doesn't come on, and the car will only start after i turn the key about 6-7 times. I was looking through my owners manual and i didn't notice anything about the key having a resistor, it just said that the keyless entry is what the car uses to identify you.

    :lemon:
  • I know im beating a dead horse, but i just bought my 01 last month 57,000 miles on it, started with just the lights flickering, found out its some sort of blower motor kicking on, when my DIC is turned to the voltage it jumps from 12v to 15.5v (normally runs at 14.7) the alternator was replaced a couple months before i bought the car

    :lemon:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,547
    http://www.rockauto.com/ref/ACDelco/Detail.html?15-72273.jpg

    Programmer
    1572273
    $340

    control unit
    1572638
    Looks like there may be two variations or it's applicable to CJ2 and U40 options both
    $950
    Ouch.

    I'd sure diagnose and sure find a friendly recyling yard.
    These both seem different than the ones I dealth with on my 98 LeSabre which is vacuum oriented. These may be the electrical type control valves.
  • dinnydinny Posts: 5
    Hi imidazol97,

    My garage is saying the part number I need is 16234403 with the CJ2 & U40 option. It looks like the unit you referenced with CJ2 & U40, but the part number is different. Do you think it cross-references?

    Thanks for your in-sight.

    Sean
  • dinnydinny Posts: 5
    Hello,

    I have a 1999 Aurora. I have recently noticed a slight exhaust smell in the car when I'm stationary. As soon as I drive, it goes away immediately.

    Would anyone have any hints as to what this could be or has anyone also experieced this and what was the remedy?

    It doesn't sound like there is any type of exhaust leak under the car (no rough or rumbling noises).

    Thanks in advance....

    Sean
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,547
    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1356858&parttype=6848

    is the link to the regular (not java) parts finder on rockauto.com

    It's the last item on the page and it shows that same part number along with the other one. Don't know why two different parts numbers?
  • dinnydinny Posts: 5
    Thanks a million!

    Now I have a starting point!

    Sean
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    http://www.car-part.com can be your friend in trying to find this at junkyards across the country...

    --Robert
  • Hello everyone. Well found out that my coolant leak was a cracked radiator so i replaced it,now i find out that im leaking tranny fluid too. it seems to be coming from the very front driver side in my 96. Could this be a gasket problem? or something more serious than that? It seems to be leaking really bad but i have no problems with the tranny it shifts fine.any help would be appreaciated.
  • zerterzerter Posts: 1
    Hello

    I am a recent victim of the amazing 100km chrysler intrepid 2.7L engine blow up program from chrysler so I am looking at a 2001 aurora 3.5L in mint condition. Any good reason why I should not buy one of these?
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