Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

1100101103105106220

Comments

  • 2k1olds2k1olds Posts: 98
    'rora in for a oil change Sunday. Now, since yesterday, the car has a vibration (both idling in park and on the road). When you're sitting there in park and rev it, the vibration starts at about 1200 rpm and continues through about 2700 rpm and then goes away and smooths out. But, when driving, it has the vibration all the time, even when coasting. The vibration is not in the steering wheel, just a seat of the pants feel. Any idea what could have happened? They said the tires were all overinflated by 10 psi (40 instead of 30), which means they were balanced at 40, compliments of the people that did the last oil change. It can't be the tires, because it vibrates while sitting in park. Anybody else have this happen??
  • 98 Aurora with Autobaun .... has intermittent blower ... even turning blower to high it will blow at whatever speed it chooses ... sometimes it will not blow at all. GM manual says it could be the blower control module or the programer .. any experience with this out there?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Is the oil level proper? I'd check that since that's all that changed. You might try to note the consistency of it also to ensure it's the right weight (might be hard to do).
  • I just took my '96 Aurora in for an oil change/coolant flush/AC recharge and the dealer had recall parts on hand and did the recall for me. They replaced the fuel rail with a stainless steel one, took them about 1-2 hours I think. I think I got pushed to the back of the line when they figured out it needed recalling, I took the car in at 7 AM and didnt get it till 6 PM. They didnt replace the fuel return line, however.

    Greg

    '96 Autobahn
  • buckdogbuckdog Posts: 19
    Just had this happen to me, started working intermitrntly for a couple of days then just quit working alltogether. I checked everything fuses, blower motor and everything checked ok. What it ended up being was the blower control module $97 at dealer only. When I unpluged one of the two connectors, the one with only one red wire, the pin from the module was burned off and melted permenatly right inside the connector. So I had to cut off the conn. and crimp a hardware style slip on connector in its place. That module must of really got hot at one time to burn the pin right off. The module is just to the left of the blower motor mounted to the side caseing of the HVAC ductwork, two screws hold it on. Its got a rather large heat sink on it that you can't see because it's inside the duct, with that size of heat sink I know there's smoe heat being generated.
      ,good luck Dan
  • Dan,
    Thanks for the feedback ... my blower wasn't working at all yesterday so I pulled the control module out to see if there were any burned wires. Negative .. The GM service manual has a troubleshooting flowchart that anyone with a voltmeter can use to trace trace the problem. Bingo it pointed right to the blower control module. I left the module out of its compartment because I didn't have the replacement part yet. The blower started working half way to work this AM ... I burned my hand on that heatsink thing trying to see just how warm it gets when working correctly. Next time you need parts you might want to check out http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ My total cost with shipping came to $62.16 for the blower control module. PN 52470336 .. These are OEM GM parts.
  • The two that control AC function and fan speed ..
    Anybody got the GM part number of these for the 95 through 99 model year?
  • buckdogbuckdog Posts: 19
    The blower cont. mod. for the '95 is GM PT#12368388 GMONLINE cost is 101.06 and that is what the dealer said it would be. But when I went to the cashier she said it was $97.00 and I said "I like u too". Don't know why the 2 diff prices but I didn't ask. Why do you have a diff price? Also the new one I got has a better design. Looks to have bigger cooling fins but works just fine.
  • buckdogbuckdog Posts: 19
    I took a double look and you are right, a 50% savings @ gm parts direct. I'll deffinatly book mark that sight! THANKS
  • Found it ... 16165959 KNOB,HTR

    can be had from gmpartsdirect.com for $7.51 ea plus S/H
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    I believe the fuel return line recall is only for the 95's as 96 and 97's are different.

    That's probably why 95's haven't been called yet.
  • Hey! I'm a firsttimer here...have a 1997 Aurora, bought it two months ago with 50k miles on it. Some of the interior lights have gone out (behind the DIC, the passenger side door, etc.) and I was wondering where you can get the lights and how to replace them. Also, my sunroof has gone goofy lately. It doesn't all the way back when you press the button; you have to hit the button again to get it to go all the way back. That's not a big deal, but when you press the button to close it, it doesn't stop when it's sealed. It goes straight to being popped up, and it makes a popping/clicking sound if you hold the button down. Any help would be great!

    Jesse
  • The huge piece of the dash that arches from the driver's door to the other side of the center stack is pulling away from the rest of the dash. I assume it's from warping. Looks like it could be pushed back underneath and reglued, but might be a serious job. This happen to anybody else?
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    Mine is just starting to warp itself. Where the piece you're talking about, meets the other dash piece near the windshield base. Just hoping it doesn't get worse.

    I guess if it does, I just replace it as it wasn't too complicated, or looked so, when I put my new bezel cover (the clear piece) in. It felt like there was only a few more screws or things holding it on behind the radio, probably around the vent. At the max, a 3 hr. job.
  • jay800jay800 Posts: 12
    99 Aurora 94,000 KM (55,000 miles)
    I am having th same problem at idle, more noticeable when the a/c is on. Fine during acceleration, exept the first second from a stand-still, then it is fine until idle.

    A few weeks ago I noticed hesitation while accelerating and decided to change the plugs and fuel press. regulator. Well the plugs were disgusting and I put in new Iridium plugs.

    At first it was like magic, this thing was flying...no hesitation and the new FPR fixed the hard starts perfectly. NOW as time goes on the idle keeps geting worse and worse, so I think I'll go back to the AC Delco plugs, but after reading your issue, it seems like the same thing? It feeels like a mis-firing cylinder like you said?

    The TAC is bouncing when I feel the mis-firing, again only during idle.

    I'll keep checking to see if there are any ideas before I bring it in...

    THX. Jay
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    There is some TSB on this on 2001 4.0s. Something about the license plate screws have to have some kind of backing or fitting on them otherwise they let water right in. Even though it won't be free, the dealer might be the best route if you aren't a DIY'er.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am waiting to hear what the solution is for this problem. I have the issue of erratic idle also. By the way I have about 98k on the car. Are you guys around the same mileage?
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Posts: 207
    I would suggest putting back in the stock AC Delco plugs. These engines are very touchy when it comes to the spark plugs, wires ect.... Lots of people have had problems when using aftermatket plugs/wires. I tried Bosch before and they worked fine for a few months. Then I developed a horrible misfire. Took it to the dealer and they put back in the AC Delco plugs and the mechanic told me never put anything , but AC Delco plugs in a Northstar engine.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    On an older engine like yours, check all the "rubber" under the hood. By that I mean the pvc fittings and any other rubber elbows. The heat our engine makes does a number on them. I found both pvc elbows were cracked, the one the PVC connects to as well as the one to the intake and whatever that thing on top of the TB is (any ideas?).
  • jay800jay800 Posts: 12
    Thanks, I will put AC Delco plugs back in.

    Also, when the car is idling in park or neutral, the problem is alsmost non-existant. As soon as I slide it into drive (especially when the air is on)it misfires terribly until I move.

    I'll let you know how it reacts with the AC plugs back in.
Sign In or Register to comment.