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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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  • ibtiggsibtiggs Posts: 23
    I parked my 1995, with 207000km, last night. no problems were showing.
    This morning, when I started it, the SES (Service Engine Soon) light came on, and stayed on. when I shift into reverse or drive, it HAMMERS into gear, just like I was racing the engine. I checked the trans fluid, and it is fine. I have disconnected the battery (to reset the computer and codes, I'm hoping). I REALLY want to keep the car, but with over 200000k on the clock, I'm wondering if this is the beginning of the end

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! :sick:
  • bugs7bugs7 Posts: 6
    I have the same problem. I have had the transmission rebuilt but the problem remains. All electrical harnesses have been replaced also. Would also like an answer to this problem.
  • jerdfxjerdfx Posts: 13
    Hi everyone, I'm in need of some opinions once again.

    I just had a new delco compressor put in a few days ago along with a new serpentine belt.

    My mechanic said he couldn't charge the system because he couldn't find the low pressure port. Something like that.

    I see 2 ports with black caps on the top. Any normal car takes it in right at that point.

    I have charged sytems before with cans from walmart.

    He said the car had a G body style and I had to take it to the dealer to have it charged.

    I said to him well could a valvoline or small shop charge it. He said no or he could just do it.

    I was skeptic and dealer was closed at 5:00 pm. I wanted the system charged after a nearly 600.00 repair.

    I called them and specifically asked if they could charge a aurora. They said yes.

    I went out to valvoline sat for a hr to be told it's not working.

    I could have did what they did. They hooked there machine up to the second port charged it with no luck. Looked for leaks there were none.

    Gage said system was charged. Didn't blow any cold air at all.

    Could the fuse just be out. Or was it being charged the wrong way.

    I know there are alot of other parts to the ac system. My mechnic said condensor should be fine. He said there were no aluminum shavings in the compressor I guess.

    Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

    Car is a 96 with 80k.

    Thanks,

    Jeremy
  • shell351shell351 Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 and I've had terrible problems with all of the electrical stuff on the drivers door,ie...Window, first working intermittently but now not @ all just a little click sound. I used to be able to push it up or down when there was power to it but now nothing. The power seat dosen't work right either. No one in my town knows anything about this hightech car, can ANYONE please help!!!!!!!!!??????? This is just one of many problems with this car I need help with.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    shell351,

    I cannot verify this from my own experience, but I have read that the wiring from the body into the door is small, fragile, and often breaks. You might examine the wires to see if they are intact.

    Les
  • Hello Les,

    I think we are headed in the right direction. I spoke with a mechanic today that used to work exclusively on Aurora's. He was actually sent to school specifically for the Aurora. He told me that when a fuel pump goes bad in the '95, '96, the ground wire will almost always overheat causing the connector to loose contact intermittently. After several "come-backs" after changing a fuel pump he started always replacing the 3' wiring harness that connects the fuel pump assembly to the main wiring harness under the car in the frame and never had a "come-back" after that.

    Now, the issue is today that harness has been discontinued and I cannot seem to find it anywhere Nationwide. The dealer ran a locater both locally and nationwide and no-one has one in stock. :cry:

    Do you have any idea where I might find the harness or somewhere that could possibly make up a new one?

    The OLDS part number for the harness is: 12099284

    Thanks
    Eagle
  • adg2adg2 Posts: 1
    Help! I have a 1999 Aurora and when you turn the key to start it will not turn over. You can hear a relay click under the back seat, hear minor buzz under the hood, and the Park light on the lower right corner of the dash turns on as long as you hold the key in the start position. I successfully jumped the vehicle and took it to the former olds dealer who diagnosed a bad positive battery cable and wanted over $600 to replace. The mechanic there told me you could jump start the vehicle and it would start and run fine except the tack was jumping wildly and would also have to replace the PCM. Not having unlimited funds I picked up the vehicle to R&R the battery cable myself. Before doing so I checked the voltage at the battery (12.4 volts) and at the jump box (9.4 volts). I then cleaned the connections at the jump box and the negative cable connecting the engine to the upper shock tower and Viola! now I have 12.4 volts at the jump box leading me to believe the pos cable is fine. However it still will not turn over!
    When you turn the key it still has 12 volts to the jump box. Next I tried to use jumper cables but now that doesn't work! Help!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,548
    There's a long trouble shooting set of steps to determine if it's a cable problem, positive or negative, and if it's a starter problem. The most common in GM is low battery voltage under the load of operating the solenoid and turning the starter. This causes problems with the compute control. The fact the tach jumped around indicated poor connections somewhere.

    If I recall what you said, you cleaned connections at the jump start connection point. But the cable from the negative to the motor may be corroded or loose. The positive cable may also have a problem with corrosion. has the car been driven in the new liquid salt areas a lot. That is reported by some to really speed up corrosion if left on the undersides of cars.

    I just replaced the starter in my 98 GM car. But the symptoms were different. You need a diagnosis. The positive cable replacement might be a good guess. But I'd rather know that the last segment of that cable is dropping voltage under load of attemption to use the starter.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Eagle,

    There is a wrecked '97 Aurora on eBay that is being parted out. I was going to suggest that until I consulted my parts microfiche. It shows 12099284 for '95 and 12137786 for '96-'97. There's no way to tell from the microfiche what is different between the two part numbers. Interestingly the pump module for '95 is unique while '96 and '97 have the same part number.

    If no dealers have one in stock, can one be ordered? Maybe you don't have that much time.

    Try local salvage yards and/or www.car-part.com. Also www.RockAuto.com and www.GMPartsDirect.com.

    I don't know of any custom harness shops. You might try speed shops and ask what they do for harnesses.

    Inquire on the other Aurora board.

    Use Google.

    Les
  • dea1dea1 Posts: 1
    Hello,

    Change your ecm on the car. Its located under the passenger side glove box. This should fix your problem.
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Posts: 23
    I've had the same problems with mine. When I checked the wiring between the door and body, I found 4 wires broken. I repaired the wires, and everything works again. however, in order to do it properly, the door should really come off. all of the wires are very small gauge, and break VERY easily when flexed.

    With the price that these cars went for when they were new, You would think GM would have put a little more effort into designing these cars! :mad:
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Posts: 23
    I disconnected the battery for 4 hours. after that, I reconnected the battery, and restarted the car. No SES light, and the trans is now shifting normally. Although the problem is now gone, I'd bet it is just a matter of time before it rears it's ugly head again. I think it is time for a visit to a Olds dealer for a diagnosis... Or, can it go to a regular tranny shop, (less expensive)?
    :confuse:
  • shell351shell351 Posts: 2
    Thank you so much for responding to my question. Can I ask you how do you keep from breaking them again? I did the rewiring myself and they kept coming apart again, so I hired someone to do it right @ $230.00, and my window still dosen't work and my seat won't work either. Is there a fuse I should check? I can't seem to find anyone who knows how to work on any part of my car. I can't even find a service manual. If you have any info. that might help me that would be GREAT!!!!!!
  • Hey there!! I own a 1995 Olds Aurora and I love it so very much. The only problem I have had with it is that my car wouldn't start at times. Stuff would come on and there would be a click under the back seat. But there would be nothing when I turned the key. I took it to the dealer I got my car from and they would check and ground wires, but it would keep doing it. Sometimes it would start, then sometimes it wouldn't. If this happens to you, I have a hint what might be wrong. Check the security chip in the key. This last time I took it to the dealer, they gave up and got a hold of a GM certified mechanic. They figured it may be the security chip and made a new key. Now it works perfectly.
    So before you get fustrated, check that out. I'm so thankful the dealer I got the car from didn't charge me for all the work they did. :) I just love my car!!!! :)
    I do have one question. Has anyone put a car starter in a 95 Olds Aurora? I mean with the security key and all? I'm just wondering if it can be done. Thank you and good luck to all who own an Aurora. They are not all bad.
  • bugs7bugs7 Posts: 6
    I had a similar but different problem> I changed the key as well but this is what happened after. The car started roughly. It went about a half mile and then stalled. It started after 5 minutes, went about a half mile and stalled. This happend six times before I got home. An observation: when it sat overnight it started and kept running. Took it to the dealer but no diagnosis because it did not code nor would it do it for him. Any suggestions?
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Posts: 23
    The wires that run between the body and door are 22 gauge wiring, and when I fixed mine, I spliced in a short piece of 14 gauge wire, which is thicker, hence harder to break, PLUS it relieves the strain the wires are under when the door is opened fully. When my door opened all the way before, you could almost play the wiring like a piano! :P Now, I don't have a problem.
    If you paid someone to fix this, I might consider taking it back to them, and either get my money back, or get them to fix it right this time!
    As for the manuals, the only ones available are through a dealer, or you might get lucky on E-bay, and get a used one.
    Either way, good luck! :P
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    GM service manuals are available from www.helminc.com

    Sometimes one can be found on eBay at considerably lower price.

    Les
  • herbert11herbert11 Posts: 22
    I had the same problem with my 2001 V6. Took it to a guy I trust while it was running and the check engine light was on. He plugged it into the computer and it came back with several problems. The most serious being that the "torque converter clutch?" was bad. I had the tranny rebuilt for $1900. iknow this guy for 25 years and he never misdiagnoses a problem. I would never take it to a dealer. I have had enough sorry experiences with those guys that I simply don't trust them
  • darndtdarndt Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Olds Aurora, the low tire pressure warning light keeps coming on saying low tire pressure, but when I check the tire pressure thay are all where thay should be at 30 psi. If I reset the warning light it still keeps coming on. Can anyone tell me why this is happening and how to fix this problem?
    Thanks,
    Dave
  • bugs7bugs7 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the tip. It worked for me! I have had the car to both the dealer and the transmission people. Both were stumped. It is obviously an electrical problem. The code showed that there was insuffiecient voltage across the selenoid. I spent 1700 to have it fixed and for the next year the folks at the transmission shop must have spent more than that everytime I brought it back.
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Posts: 23
    Well, I don't want to burst your bubble, but I had to take mine into the dealer after all! :cry: After spending close to $400.00 for them to diagnose, and to repair some wiring done by a previous owner, NOW they say... PCM time! I guess you were right, dea1! :blush:
  • ray97ray97 Posts: 1
    I have a 97 with the same problem, the lights go on by themselves and you cannot shut them off. I have replaced the sentinel switch and the light control module and I still have the problem. When you shut the sentinel switch to off you should be able to operate the lights manually with the light switch on the column but thats not the case, did you find a solution to the problem thank you ray97
  • I have a 98 aurora and i love it. Somewhat recently it began over heating only on the highway. As long as im driving under 55 there are no problems and it runs at a normal temp. It has had the thermostat and radiator replaced already. Does anyone else know what might be causing this annoying problem? :confuse: Thanks
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Posts: 34
    When driving my 98 Aurora @ 60 -75 the car shakes a bit, I have new tires, pressure looks ok. Looking for any ideas on how to fix this. I would love for it to run smoother!! Also any input on the rear height leveler, it appears to be broken, anyone had issues with this.

    Thanks in advance
    C
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,548
    Are the tires a quality brand that will be round? Have they been well-balanced?

    The stiffness of the chassis makes small imperfections in tires able to cause a shake at some speeds. Balancing with a Hunter 9700 Road Force Balancer that puts pressure on the tires and checks to be sure they roll round under the weight of the car and balances them that way will help. On the newer H-body versions of that chassis GM put Michelins on to eliminate most of the out-of-round problems.

    The height leveler control has a little arm link from the rear suspension that moves with the tires up to the body to tell it when to turn on and pump up or release pressure in the struts. You should hear the pump run if you turn the key on without starting the car and sit for 30-40 seconds (a long time). The pump should run for about 5 seconds to stabilize the pressures. If it doesn't do that then start checking master fuses in the relay center and in the interior wherever they are on the Aurora.
  • tjm97tjm97 Posts: 27
    The problem is with the Multifunction switch on the steering column; very common.
    Take a look at - Classic Aurora 95 - 99 Mechanical Maintenance :: 1995-99 Aurora Maintenance "How-To's" at the Aurora Club of North America.
  • carpetcarpet Posts: 2
    My 1995 Aurora tells me (DIC) it is overheating and my traction control turns off.

    The temperature gauge is normal, antifreeze is always full; the fans work; the skirt on the front bumper is intact, what could it be?

    I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor and the PCM - I still get the same message. It sometimes happens apx.2min after I start the car, then again about half an hour later.

    What's going on with it?
  • tjm97tjm97 Posts: 27
    Typically this problem is caused by missing air deflectors under the car. There is one main plastic "shield" and another vertical valance. If they are missing then what you have is usually what happens.

    Replace the res cap too.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    tjm,

    I disagree. No engine is going to overheat 2 minutes after it is started. There is something else (electrical) going on.

    Les
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,548
    Could it be a bypass that's blocked and the thermostat opens when the temp goes right up?
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