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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Bill,

    That is good news. When you find the open circuit, please let me know where it is. I have not put in the time to find mine.
  • Any advice, replaced heat sensor, thermostat, but still overheating? ? could there be air in the radiator?
  • I have had the same issue with my 1998 Aurora which I've had since 2000. I had the button mechanism on the gear shifter replaced but I still cannot distinguish any difference when the button is engaged. Do let me know if you are able to tell the difference now.

    I love my Aurora and whenever I look around to replace it, I conclude that it is the best of the best.

    JohnnieBoy
  • I have had the same issue with my 1998 Aurora which I've had since 2000. I had the button mechanism on the gear shifter repalced but I still cannot distingusih any difference when the button is engaged. Do let me know if you are able to tell the difference now.

    I love my Aurora and whenever I look around to replace it, I conclude that it is the best of the best.

    JohnnieBoy
  • flybrianflybrian Posts: 6
    The POWER mode just holds the current gear for a few hundred more RPM before upshifting. Honestly, I've never noticed a difference in regular driving.
  • Hello everyone. This is for a 2001 Olds Aurora, 3.5L V6 (newer style). I was wondering if anyone knows how to remove the buttons on the steering wheel. Apparently the buttons for volume and temp no longer light up, but the ones for fan and seek do. There is one on each side that lights, and one that doesn't, so I doubt that it's any wiring problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Adam
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Can someone take a look at their decal for the tire pressure on a 96? My decal is no longer readable. Thanks
    Norman
  • brinwoodbrinwood Posts: 32
    I always run 32 PSI minimum for best handling with my '97 Aurora. The lower pressures listed by GM are for a softer ride.....imho
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 793
    According to Tire Guides, a 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora came with P235/60R16's inflated to 30 psi. So if you are using that tire size, then that pressure would be appropriate. If not, then the pressure needs to be recalculated.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks for the responses. I am currently running 32 and it seems a little harsh at times. At times they had gotten a little low and that also will result in a bad ride. Too low you end up with a tire bounce transferring too much movement to the body. All related to the valving in the shock absorbers. I don't know how many levels of valving exist but I will guess 3. 1st level for normal rolling. If the tire is too soft it will not transfer enough impact to open the proper higher level of valve attempting to maintain the same level of body. But it will come back at a lower valve rate where the spring tries to maintain the same height causing a pitching of the vehicle.

    Too hard a tire and it can beyond the higher level rate of valving. And since each level of valving is likely maintained through the return stroke, that means spring pushes back harder because more energy compressed it more than necessary and that momentum is then slamming against a harder than recommended surface, the hard tire.

    Tire pressure may need to be adjusted slighty for optimal with your tire model. I run original size in Khumo brand which from one of the tire sales sites many Aurora owners seem to think it is better than OE in areas of ride, quiet, and traction. But loosing the correct pressure information put me at doubt. I found myself a half pound low on front driver side compared to others at 32. I could feel that in handling. But adding that 1/2 and then driving to the air show yesterday I realized I may be rolling a little hard. Now I know why with 2 pound cold too much.
    These tires seem to have an almost magic point where air doesn't want to compress more. My guess it is related to tread flex or more likely sidewall flex. Maybe if the sidewall stands up too much it inversely limits the ability of the tire to take the shock of a rough spot.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    The button will give a little faster acceleration without having to put foot into accelerator as far. Had to pull center console and found wire breaks in two places near the shifter because that is where the wires are flexing everytime I guess. Broken wire defaults to non power mode.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    O2 sensor has been an adventure for me. Replaced front one about a year ago with 132K. Only added about 5K and one at rear manifold went. Two weeks later one at converter front.
    Hoping maybe the last one will hold for awhile.

    With this last one, also had codes popping for #1 misfire that were not there before. Driving it yesterday after replacing that third one shows I have something related to misfire yet. I have a spare coil and will swap and then visit autozone for an erase of codes.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    The cross over from front to rear manifold can leak in some mysterious places. I was able to tighten mine slightly.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Assume your tool is up to the job. May have to do a little had machining on the piston. Or secondary to what I ran into. Some idiot used big pliers on mine leaving gouges that cut the boot. A light filing followed by emory cloth took care of it. Had it been deeper I would have filled gouges with JB Weld and then smoothed.
    Hope that helps Les.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My 96 has tranny cooler and oil cooler in radiator.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Often hard to locate just the clutch assembly and unless the coil goes bad it usually indicates deeper trouble. Sometimes you might loose the clutch pack if the bearing fails but otherwise burning up the clutch pack would be from a locked compressor and vent valve should take care of over pressure. If the pop off didn't work, this would still indicate a blockage in the system such as a malfunction condenser or plugged oriface screen or tube. Either way that debris could have damaged the compressor and you are right about gambling on it and probably not much more for a complete compressor versus labor of changing the clutch. But in any case the system should be opened and flushed. In the event that a chunk of epoxy broke loose internally on the condensor and intermittantly plugged it, he should be good on the repair if it happens in short order again.
    The screeching is usually the belt slipping versus the clutch smoking so replacing it was likely necessary.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Feel the lines close to firewall, at least one should feel cold. If not is the clutch cycling? If not is the end of the compressor turning, that is the plate of the clutch next to the pulley?
    Lines near firewall should both be cold and about same temperature. This would indicate that a blend door is possibly bad or the control head and it thinks you want heat.
    If the compressor is not running, you could have a malfunction of the pressure switch on compressor, or bad high or low temp sensor in the freon line. If the high detects a high temp it will shut the system down and is located near vehicle front, behind headlights on mine. Unplugging it sends cold or normal signal to computer and may take a few start and stop cycles to reset computer.
    Cold sensor is in line under wiper motor I think. Not sure how this one works from top of head.
    Did you have high and low guages hooked up when attempting to fill?
    And if you haven't picked up on it, possibly the main computer.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I like Michelins except for the price, but they were rated below some others at a tire sales forum for this car.
    Look at sidwall, inner and outer for a spot marking, white, red, blue, any color maybe. Unless you tell them specifically it seems they intentionally do not line it up with valve stem. This system of mating tire to wheel started in 80's with Cadillac Cimaron. Likelihood of it happening properly is like getting the wheel nuts hand torqued.
    Then I'd say the next step is road force balance.
  • uncleb0buncleb0b Posts: 2
    how much is it if it is still available
  • uncleb0buncleb0b Posts: 2
    # 3658 olds 1995 aurora service manual.How much is it if it is still available.
  • graf8graf8 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Aurora, 3.5L, and randomly there will be shifting issues. In shifting into 2, 3, and 4 it will be very jerky and quick. You can tell when this will occur because the instead the quiet idol it is a whinning noise and it will continue the entire time you drive (very apparent when driving). I read somewhere the electronics in place to ensure a very smooth shift can sometimes fail leading to this problem. Simply turning the car off and back on will take care of it. Has anybody encountered this and if so do you have a recommedation as to how I can fix it other than restarting. Thanks.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Too many roads still have a harsh feel. Some of it may be the seasonal change of cool nights for pressure setting and roads starting to make their seasonal change of expansion and starting to buckle a little as it gets warmer. But also traveled a stretch of recently new blacktop last week. Those pavers must have been hired from what I call bottle carpenters. They get them a bottle of whiskey and lay it down like a level and then take drinks from it until it looks level. Road was full of dips and crowns giving a porpoiseing ride.
    I have trusted this guage for a long time, although it reads about a pound lower than some. May be time for a new one and to start adjusting pressure downward a half pound at a time. And for some reason I know I had/have a vehicle that called for 28 PSI. Can't help but wonder if a tire shop gave me that reading for this car, or maybe it is recommended for these tires on this car?
    Anyone showing 28 PSI on their decal (not Autobahn)?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Coil was responsible for #1 misfire code. Don't know why it did not also show #4. Picked up about 4 MPG on highway.
  • i have a 97 olds aurora and have not been able to find a repair manual on it anywhere. it seems to be overheating and i have flushed radiator and replaced with new coolant replaced the thermostat in it but still seems to run bout 200-225 in town
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Helm is the source of the two-volume factory service manual (includes Riviera). These are sometimes available on eBay.

    I have owned my '97 Aurora since 1999. After many years of worrying that the temp guage did not stay at 195, I gave up. Most everyone reports Classics running at the same temps as yours. I added an auxilliary transaxle cooler. I replaced the thermostat. I replaced leaking radiator, finding many leaves and a plastic shopping bag between the radiator and a/c condensor; I thought that would fix the "overheating" -- wrong. If the air baffle mounted under your front bumper has been "removed" by a curb, you may experience 10 to 15 degrees higher temp. I conclude that there is something different about the design of this cooling system that is different than every other car I have owned for over 40 years.

    That said, some Classics have experienced real overheating because of blown head gaskets.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Today it was 70+ and I needed A/C, which reminded me of your post. This is counter-intuitive, but turning on your A/C will keep your coolant temp lower. Reason is that using the A/C turns the radiator fans on, otherwise they turn on at 227 degrees. Except that you can force the fans to turn on by disconnecting the coolant-level switch connector at the bottom of the surge tank. Side effect is that the DIC will display "LOW COOLANT" message.

    Les
  • Hey there!!
    Hi to you!! I own a 95 Aurora. I have had my share of problems, but I still love my car!! I have owned a lot worse cars than this one. But since I got my problem fixed, I haven't had any problems since. *knock on wood*
    It's nice to meet someone who loves this car. Hope to exchange information!! Good luck fellow Aurorian!! ;)
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Fans are also in two speeds and high does not come on until substantially higher as I recall. If you don't mind the fans running full time you could remove appropriate relay from box at right front and jumper so to run low or high speed.
    Down side would be shortened fan life and likely a heavy power draw at high speed. I, for the first time, cranked up the radio looking for the point where distortion would start showing up. I was at a light and notice the RPM indicator drop to zero a few times at full volume, but did not discern distortion. And last night I cranked up volume again with engine off. About the top 10% showed distortion. My guess is not enough voltage to keep from clipping and at idle it may have drawn enough power to cause voltage dips resulting in the jumping tachometer.

    Norman
  • brainsnapbrainsnap Posts: 1
    at this point in time, none of my power windows on my '96 aurora work.
    Replaced the driver's window switch (as suggested previously), still doesn't work.
    There's no problem with the breaker, as the sunroof still works fine. I saw a few other people on this forum with similar problems to mine, but no real solutions.

    I have reason to believe that the switch is getting power from the car because using a voltometer shows that there is power from the battery reaching the switch, and entering the switch when the buttons are pressed.

    What could my problem be? Any suggestions or tips would be greatly helpful.
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