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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Each switch is 2 pair of contacts and 1 pair changes state when moving switch. 1 pair for up and 1 pair for down. At rest all switches have ground of each pair applied.
    Pin P, black wire should be ground. Next connector it will go through pin J. Diagram then shows a grommet, which may be the rubber door sleeve or perhaps hidden behind lower left kick panel. From there is a splice that connects several circuits. I would say your problem is between that splice and master switch since you haven't mentioned problems with the many other circuits that connect at splice before going to ground.
  • SO DID YOU SAY THAT YOU CHANGED WHAT ON THE OIL PUMP TO GET THE OIL PRESSURE BACK UP ...MAN THIS IS HEADACHE..ALSO DID YOU SAY TO CHANGE SENSOR THAT THE WINDOWS WILL START BACK TO WORK....HELP ME PLEASE I LOVE MY CAR
  • pharry752pharry752 Posts: 6
    Mine did that too. If you open the driver side door you will see a rubber boot that has a bunch of wires inside running from the main frame to the door. Mine had two wires broken inside the rubber boot. The wires are tight and as you open and close the doors they bend enough times to break. I added about 2 inches of wire to the two broken wires and now all windows work fine. I had to sacrifice the boot by cutting it out of the way. There was no easy way to get to the wires otherwise.
  • pharry752pharry752 Posts: 6
    push pull tug or tow, but don't drive it. Darn good way to start a fire. My fuel rail was replaced under recall about a month ago. No charge.
  • pharry752pharry752 Posts: 6
    My ac fan has been slowing down for some time and now won't come on at all. Everything else on the ac system is working. Has anybody got tips on removing the fan? It seems to be in the console under the dash, but I have not had a chance to start taking things apart.
  • pharry752pharry752 Posts: 6
    On my 96 I got a code of multiple random cylinder misfire. It turns out that there are 4 coils on the firewall under the hood. Each coil controls 2 cylinders. I checked the spark on each wire and found a bad coil. Replaced it and it runs great. This has happened with each of the other coils at random intervals, so I now have all 4 coils replaced. Maybe good idea to replace them all at once when one fails.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    lady,

    First, please stop shouting.

    Second, you did not identify your car or the posts to which you refer. One of them might be mine; I replaced the oil-pressure sender on my '97 Aurora. The sender is black and cylindrical, about the size of a roll of quarters. It is located near the oil filter and is fairly easy to access from under the car. Replacing this does not raise the oil pressure itself, just the indicated pressure. The oil pump is inside the engine; repairs to it are not for someone who has to ask.

    I do not know of any sensor that would affect operation of the windows. Maybe you are thinking of a switch or broken wires (very common window failures in Auroras).

    Les
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    If you remove the boot at each end, you can thread a new wire through it and make splices outside the boot area. Use wire of high quality, that is lots of strands and it won't break again. Sometimes the wire will break inside the insulation not making the break point evident, but the insulation will stretch when the wire won't and eventually the insulation will snap at the wire break point.
    No need to destroy the boot.
  • jerugjerug Posts: 5
    Does anyone know the location of the AC low pressure port for recharging on a 97? I can only locate the two on top but they're both on what appears to be the high pressure line.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    My '97 has only two ports; they are on different lines on top. They are different diameters so there should not be a connection problem.

    Why would there be two ports on the same line?

    Les
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    It might appear to be same line depending upon definition. That is multiple segments in line. Between the two charge connectors is a break in the line and the down stream side holds the orifice tube. So you have a high and low pressure point just a few inches apart with a connection between.
  • jerugjerug Posts: 5
    The upper line is as you describe it, with a connector in between the two ports, but the situation is that the smaller port, toward the firewall, is too small for the standard R134a recharge fitting and the one forward of the connector will only take the fitting tightly up to the start of the flare on the outside above the groove which is where the fitting is supposed to lock on. I'm stuck because the connector can't engage and lock and because I certainly don't want to mistakenly connect to the high pressure side.
  • ozz1ozz1 Posts: 5
    i have a 99 with the same problem, the coupler in the kit will not lock on either of the ports, one seems to be the right size, the one closer to the fire wall, but it won't lock on. also, i followed the high pressure line down to the compressor and it appears that the seal is leaking because the 134 is leaking out on the steel line and it has rusted the line and i am afraid that it will eventually rust thru the line, fyi.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    I have had difficulty getting the fittings to lock onto the ports, too. Both low and high pressure. I was able to make the connection work by putting the fitting in place on top of the port, pulling the sliding locking ring up with one hand, then squeezing hard with my other hand to seat and lock the fitting. I did not just push on the fitting because I feared damage to the line; that is why I squeezed the fitting and line together with palm of my hand against the fitting and fingers wrapped around the line.

    Les
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I think you nailed it Les. The other consideration is if you are using a service connector with the valve built in. You would definitely want the valve on the service hose closed when connecting, but I have misgivings about these low/no loss of Freon devices. Very small quantities of air trapped inside couplers as they are connected will degrade your cooling. I always attempt to flush connection, and of course service hoses, with a small amount of Freon bleeding as I make the connection.
    The only thing unusual about my service ports is the cap. At least one of the lines uses a plastic cap that is non-standard and you have to get that small plastic thing from the dealer, $7, so don't lose it.
  • So, which one is it? The samaller on (closest to the firewall or the larger one (farthest away from the firewall)? Thanks.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Down stream connection, should be closer to firewall if in same line.
  • gen2956gen2956 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Aurora, with 150000 miles, having trouble with the transmission. The shift out of park to drive and vice versa is quick and hard. The check engine light is on, but the car is still running pretty smoothly. When I start it, it whines for a a while, then that sound goes away. The car is on its second transmission. Any ideas on how i can fix the hard shifting
  • codered1codered1 Posts: 2
    My car has the same problem it slams hard into Reverse and Drive I have around 175000 miles on the car. My car still runs good but My service engine light also came on as well does it have to relate to this? So I will need to get the Powertrain Control Module replaced and that should solve the problem?
  • Hoping someone can help with this...when I turn on the A/C the driver's side and center vents blow hot, the passenger side blows cold and appears to work correctly. Could possibly be a vent door is stuck in the open position bringing in hot air from engine? I did notice this winter that the driver's side was much warmer then passenger side with the heat on. Anyone have a suggestion?

    My last car had a problem where a flapper door under the driver's dash would close and I had to manually open it in order to get heat...maybe something similar -- only in reverse?
  • macfle01macfle01 Posts: 7
    HEY ITS BEEN A WHILE BUT I HAVE A OLDSMOBILE AURORA ITS A 95 I HAD IT RUNNING REAL GOOD FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF BUT DURING THAT YEAR I PUT ALOT OF MONEY IN IT TO KEEP IT RUNNING AND IT RAN REALLY GOOD FOR AWHILE BUT THEN I HAD A REALLY BAD INCIDENT ONE DAY AFTER DETAILING IT ALL THE SUDDEN IT CAUGHT FIRE NOW I NEED A ENGINE THE ORIGINAL IS COMPLETLY DESTROYED MY QUESTION IS HOW MUCH SHOULD I PAY FOR A REBUILT ENGINE AND WHAT ELSE MIGHT HAVE BEEN DAMAGED IN THE FIRE AND WHAT WOULD U GUYS SUGGEST I HAVE ALL LOOKED AT I REALLY NEED SOME GOOD HELP SO PLEASE HELP I NEED MY CAR...
  • 99dodge99dodge Posts: 15
    Mine does the same thing you will have to replace the a/c heat programmer, located behind the passenger kick panel they go for 300-500 dollars thats why I havent replaced mine yet good luck
  • 99dodge99dodge Posts: 15
    If the fire had destroyed wiring and electrical components I would try to find a donor car in a scrap yard you may have more damage than you want ot deal with.There is a dealer in St Pete florida that has one for 195.00 with 150,000 miles.I dont know if it runs but its still not worth it to me. Good Luck
  • sorry didn't mean to shout ....thanks for the help....
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    The door you refer to is the blend door I think. It controls the amount of heated air mixed with conditioned air to obtain correct temperature. You might try forcing a reprogram of positions by disconnecting battery or some alternative.
    and it would seem there has to be two doors, one for passenger side. After locating the doors, see if the connectors are the same and try moving the driver side connector to the passenger blend door.
  • 99dodge99dodge Posts: 15
    My 99 does the same thing it ended up being the a/c heat programmer.It costs 300-500 dollars to replace.it operates the 5 blend doors in the a/c system and it also controls the center console digital readout.I found out by mistake when I tried one from a buick.It worked on the driver side for air but the buick didnt have digital center console.The part is becomming obsolete that is why it costs so much.good luck
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,251
    I went back after reading someone's response to your problem. I suspect you have an electric motor controlled AC system. LeSabres used electrical motors starting in 2000 with the adoption of the Aurora/Seville body; earlier were vacuum. I suspect the Park Ave changed in late 90s with a restyle.

    There's another group of Bonneville afficianados who have similar problems with hot drivers and cold passengers. I believe some found their freon charge was low; but there is a motor actuator for one of the vanes that directs airflow that some have found bad and replaced, themselves.

    Forum rules are that I can't post the group URL here but email me at my carspace or my email is in the profile you get clicking on my name at the top of the post. I can lead you to their discussions, which are searchable, for help.

    My concern is you may not need the programmer (which many people get from wrecking yards) and may only need an actuator or freon charge.
  • gsappgsapp Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Aurora V6 with 79K miles. New battery installed but the motor will not turn over at all. Dash lights up, radio, windows work OK etc.
    Put a code scanner on it but it gets a connection error. I suspect a bad ECM or PCM? Any inputs are greatly appreciated. Also where is the ECM located?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I need the body piece that is often mentioned when car runs hot. Claims are that car runs warmer with it missing and mine is. Part number and where I can get it for a classic is what I need. Thanks.
    Norman
  • Thanks to all of you for the great advice and tips on the repairs for the Aurora. My '98 Aurora is starting to be very expensive to own without a repair warranty (8 new injectors, Disk brake rotor problems, new radiator, new hose for window washer fluid pump and now A/C problems).

    My mechanic said that I have a minute leak in the A/C evaporator on my '98 Olds Aurora. Replacement of the evaporator and dryer will cost $700 with 8 hours labor for removal and replacement of the dash.

    The interior of the car and the dash are in mint condition and I am concerned that the mechanic (non-GM) will break or damage the dash and or parts inside of the dash. How do I remove/replace the dash to save time on the labor costs for this repair?
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