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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair



  • Hi and thanks. The 2001 Aurora has 23,400 miles. I'll try the oil additive idea too. My son suggested a GM "top engine" cleaner also.
  • First off let me start by wishing everyone a Merry Christmas,or Happy Holidays which ever you perfer. I have a classic aurora with 180000. Thats high miles i know but the car runs great doesnt smoke,or miss. But anyways it recently got hot and blew alot of coolant out,after letting it cool down i drove to the store and got some more coolant and it got hot going home. Later that night i bought another radiator cap (the second one) and it runs normal now and doesnt get hot.The car doesnt smoke or smell like antifreeze in the exaust.But it does leak a little antifreeze,but can never see where it is coming from cause it doesnt leak on the driveway or anywhere else visiable. Is it possible i just got a bad cap the first time? or is there something a little more major involved? Any feedback would be great. I love this site so much knowledge.
  • Hello, it sound like your blower motor has quit go under the dash at passenger side take the two phillips screws out to take the cover off, with engine running and heater blower control on high tap the blower housing with a wrench to make the motor brushes contact the armature. I had the exact same problem with my dad's car about two months ago and it is still working. I realize I will have to replace the blower motor when this trick doesn't work anymore. Good luck
  • 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora with 144000 Kms it will start good in the morning and run just fine but it is hard to start (have to try couple of times before it starts)after it sits for about half hour or so I checked the front three spark plugs they looked good and the gap was correct, just bought the car about six months ago from an auction don't have any maintenace history on the car. Thanks for any help
  • Hello again everyone bought the 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora about six months. It didn't come with owner's manual and I need the instructions for how to reset the change engine oil message also if anybody knows where I can download the owner's from. Thanks
  • If you have a sliding sun roof a rear tube (there is 4 total- 2 front and 2 rear) that is suppose to evacuate water. They can be accessed by opening the sliding roof completely. They can clog resulting in the water overflowing into the trunk. Took my dealer 3 attempts to fix before they found a cloged tube.
  • scroll to oil, press reset hold for 10 seconds
  • have you had someone look at your trans. I have a 95 with 167,00 miles what will it do,or should i say what wont it do.
  • hope you had better luck, but i dont mean to beat a dead horse but you have all the symptoms of a bad fpr.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    More likely than not your hard starting when warm problem is a leaky/bad Fuel Pressure Regulator. Part should be around $50 and it's an easy swap - don't pay the dealer to do this...

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Someone already answered the reset question.

    You can download an Adobe Acrobat PDF of the Owner's Manual once you register your car at

    Or, you can buy a manual from

    Hope this helps,

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I think the issue was the knob on the passenger side window and a stuck motor that redirected the air flow. It was awhile ago and I do not remember the fix. Although I do think I posted the fix back when it first happened. I am assuming you are talking abut a lack of heat since it is December.
  • Is the FPR on 1996 Aurora located on driver's side of the engine close to the firewall with a vacume line on top and looks like line from the bottom going into the intake manifold I took this round little gadget apart and it was full of fuel. My car is hard to start when it is warm have to try two or three times before it starts somebody said it might be the FPR auto parts stores in B.C. Canada want anywhere from $150-200 for this part. Thanks for any help in advance
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Sounds like it's right... here's a link to a parts site that has a picture of an FPR - no, this is not the right model for your Northstar-derived engine:

    $150-$200 sounds way steep, even in Canadian dollars. IIRC I paid $38 for mine a couple of years ago... but my local Buick dealer gives me discounts (friend of a friend)... Might try calling around to Buick and Cadillac dealers, and see what they quote you (they may want/need your VIN to cross-reference the right part number, I believe there are a couple of different FPR part numbers for different years of Classic Auroras...

  • ramouramou Posts: 84
    Well the backfiring, the hesitation, the cutting out, and the crappy acceleration was all blammed on one of the coil packs, which I had to remove each one individually and swap with the new one ($21), and of course it had to be the 4th and last one I removed/ one closest to the driver...115K far the TPS, EGR valve (cleaned out) and FPR all been changed as well as the shift selenoids that make you s*** your pants when your car's rpm goes up to 4000 RPM while you're driving...,and of course the infamous fuel rail...that's beside the master cylinder, A/C system, radiator rod out, leaky power steering hose, rear shocks, ...and probably the alternator or the starter will go out next (have you seen where those things are mounted...?yayks..)
  • My '97 Aurora has developed an intermittent stalling problem that typically seems to occur right after the car has reached operating temperature. I'll be at a stop light and the car will just "go dead", no stumbling or hesitation. The car will fire right up - and I'm able to restart without any problem. I have 105K miles on my car and this problem doesn't seem to fit a pattern. It started this past summer - it stalled a couple of times and now with colder weather it occurs every few days. The car has been maintained by the recommended GM schedule, tune-ups, etc. My mechanic can't seem to duplicate the problem and the last time it occured I brought the car into the shop so that the engine computer codes could be checked. My mechanic stated that there were no trouble codes registered!? Any recommendation on how to resolve this problem is appreciated.
  • Hi folks, I suspect my struts/bearings are shot. I just had new tires put on the front and the guy at Dunn tire said it looks as though the struts are probably in need of replacing. I'm going on my own abilities rather than what the store mgr thinks. The car rattles going over bumps and makes a shuddering noise while turning the steering wheel.
    I am going to check my records from the previous owner but I don't think they have ever been changed, and with 140,000 miles it may be time.
    What do you recommend for this 1996 Aurora in the way of struts? I am not Rockefellar so price is an object. Any help would be appreciated.

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,038
    Watch for a good sale on Monroe struts at Sears. The best is where they don't charge for installation. Ask the salesman when the next good sale is going to start.
  • Hello to all! I am in dire need of advice. I have been around this board for a long time and there are a lot of you have have seen a lot of the Aurora's "quirks". Those quirks, as you know, can be very expensive. Anyway, my problem is this: 97 autobahn, 140k, and wont hold coolant. Leaks like a seive from the back right of the engine. Seems simple, but wait...there is too much crap in the way for me to see EXACTLY where it is coming from. I have it close, though. On the back right of the motor (Looking from the front as you are looking at the motor) there is a aluminum wrapped line of some sort that comes from the right side of the engine and goes into the exhaust. This is wet with coolant. There are also heater hoses that go into the heater core that go into some solid lines which go back to heater hoses that I assume go into the water pump area (hard to see anything) that are wet neer the bottom of their run. Here is the end question...I have torn the coil packs and the cruise and other stuff off the top of the engine to see at least a little bit of the behind of the engine, therefore being unable to start it to see it leak...(if I could without getting coolant in my eyes while trying to manouver a mechanics mirror to see the leak). Does anyone have experience with this...please dont tell me my rear head gasket is leaking. Thanks.
  • ramouramou Posts: 84
    I'm not a mechanic, but do u think it could be an ignition problem or possibly a security problem..? have u tried cleaning the ignition, or have u tried another key..? it could also be a computer problem (hopefully not)...keep us posted if u find out..thanks
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