Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

1157158160162163220

Comments

  • Hi All,
    I have a '95 Aurora that is really giving me a fit lately.

    Six months ago I had a problem with it not starting at all. I had it towed to my mechanic and he changed the fuel pump, and fuel filter. Took the car home and it ran for about a week and then the same thing over again. 6 months and 6 fuel pumps, fuel tank, injectors, fuel rail, later I am still having the same problem.

    I have had this car to an Oldsmobile/Cadillac dealer (they are the ones that said the injectors were plugged up) and to two different mechanics. Yesterday, I finally got dirty myself and removed the cover from the fuel tank (inside the trunk) to gain access to the fuel pump. I wanted to check the voltage at the pump to see if it was getting power while it would not start. It was, it was getting approx 11.5 v with the key on, cranking voltage at the pump was approx 10.3. I put the plug back on while it was cranking and the engine fired and ran good for 2 days.

    I had heard different opinions about "after-market" fuel pumps not working with the Aurora's so I finally broke down and took it back to the dealer to have yet another pump installed. This time is was an OEM pump from GM. Thought this was the fix, well 10 hrs after picking it up at the dealer the same thing again.

    The funny part of this whole thing is that every time it is towed and gets to a garage the darn thing fires up and runs fine. When I had the pump cover off after checking the voltage I also tapped on the top of the fuel pump with my tire iron (tapped! not SMACKED! - lol).

    I am really at my wits end with this car I paid $4000 for it in 2002 and it has cost me well over $3000 in repair bills over the past 6 months. I have checked the wiring harness from the relay back to the pump, the relay itself, fuses, etc etc. The one thing that I keep coming back to is the fact that the steering column was replaced shortly after I bought the car and though perhaps there could be something going wrong there with the security system. The ignition switch was swapped out of the old column into the new one.

    I have changed the PCM, battery, fuses, pumps, injectors, fuel rail, relays, fuel tank, fuel filters, etc etc. I really do not know where to go from here and I really don't want to just "junk" it as it is a thing with me now, I NEED to know what the heck is wrong with this thing.

    PLEASE anybody HELP!

    Eagle
  • I would be real interested to know if you ever found the problem. I am having a similar problem with my 95, I gave it my daughter and $2500 and 6 months later it still won't start all the time. Put it on a tow truck, tow it to the garage, by jove it starts and runs for 2 more days. Repeat the above if you want to continue driving it...LOL...

    Thanks
    Eagle :P
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,699
    On some cars there's an automatic blower control that replaces the resistor coils on manual switching for fan speeds. The box is on the heater somewhere. On H cars it's on the blower box in the engine compartment. The item can fail in connect mode with the blower motor running. And others fail to work predictably changing speeds oddly.

    It may be on the heater box inside the car but it's cooled by the stream of air from the blower itself. Advance Auto has them for H cars, leSabre and Bonneville.

    This message has been approved.

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Eagle,

    All the repair attempts you report are fuel-related. However, you did not mention replacing the fuel-pressure regulator. If it is leaking, it causes the engine to flood and be hard to start. Usually not a no-start situation, however.

    Has anyone checked for spark? How about diagnostic codes?

    I'm wondering if your problem could be an intermittent ignition module or crankshaft position sensor.

    Les
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    N T,

    I have owned my '97 for 6.5 years and 91 000 miles; during that time I have kept meticulous records for fuel use. My DIC almost always reports less fuel used than is pumped into the tank. The DIC mpg is off by the same percentage. Like you, I also figure the DIC readout is calculated by accumulating injector PWM over time; I suspect there is either a problem with the PCM algorithm or assumed fuel pressure (and therefore fuel delivery) isn't correct.

    My '97 service manual shows the injectors are individually controlled by the PCM. I cannot find any timing values.

    The only connection I can see between cruise and TCC is the brake switch that is intended to turn both off when brake pedal is depressed. I don't see how that might be causing your problem.

    Les
  • Hi Les,

    Thanks for that, yes we have checked the spark, in fact when the engine won't fire on it's own, if you spray throttle body cleaner into the throat while it is cranking it will light right up and run as long as you pour the cleaner to it. So that elimiates electrical, at least from a spark, timing, etc., position. The other thing that I didn't mention either is the fact that while it is cranking it should build pressure in the fuel rail, it does not, when you depress the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail there is no pressure at all. However when the pump is working there is plenty of pressure.

    Hmmm, yes they have checked the codes, but I can't tell you what they are at this time. As I stated it is real difficult because everytime we put it on a tow rig and take it to a shop, it starts right off while at the shop...

    Eagle
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Posts: 34
    98 Olds Aurora
    Any advice on AC that isn't working, the shop said it was "probably" the AC compressor. They quoted me "$850" which seems high, has anyone else had this problem with the compressor going out? I wonder if there is a leak somewhere else... I would hate to spend that kind of money it isn't necessary, yet I do want AC for the summer.

    Thanks
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    well the shop should "probably" test the system completely and probably come up with the right answer before spending your money. There are plenty of good diagnostic tools to pinpoint an AC leak exactly.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Eagle,

    A quote from your first post, "I wanted to check the voltage at the pump to see if it was getting power while it would not start. It was, it was getting approx 11.5 v with the key on, cranking voltage at the pump was approx 10.3. I put the plug back on while it was cranking and the engine fired and ran good for 2 days."

    I can't quite tell from your description -- did you check for voltage at the pump connector, while connected to the pump and engine cranking and not starting? Or was the connector disconnected? Either way, I am suspicious of the connector, either corroded contacts or broken wire.

    Les
  • billy17billy17 Posts: 1
    Same thing happened to me yesterday for the fist time. Car has 80M.
    Slamming so hard felt like driveshaft was coming htrough floor.
    Haven't started it yet today.
    Any luck finding the problem?
    Bought the car 3M ago and has riden like a dream so far until yesterday.
  • I would check the speed sensor that is at the top of the transmission. This sensor checks the speed of the internal transmission and then allows the shift to take place. If the sensor is bad the transmission will shift arbitrarily and will result in the slamming. The good part, sensor is $45, labor to install about $400.

    Eagle
  • Hi Les,
    I suspected the same thing and I am really baffled by this. Yes I disconnected the plug and checked the voltages that way. This time when it died, I did the same thing but no voltage at the pins. ArrrrrrrGGGGGGGG.... I am so frustrated with this.

    Eagle
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Eagle,

    You have already checked everything I have suggested so far, so I don't know if I'm a help. But I have a couple more ideas.

    I think you have eliminated everything from the pump downstream. Looking upstream (electrically) from the pump, there's ckt 120 (gray) to the relay, which you have replaced. The relay is gounded via ckt 451 (blk/wht); I have heard of Auroras having problems with intermittent grounds. Power to the relay comes from the 15-amp fuel pump fuse via ckt 1042 (red). The relay is controlled by the PCM via ckt 465 (grn/wht).

    This is where it gets interesting. You wrote in your first (IIRC) post that you suspected the security system. The PCM has a "theft deterrent fuel enable" input which comes from the Pass Key II decoder module via ckt 229 (dark blue). I don't know if this module is part of what was replaced in your steering column. Maybe the module is the problem, or a loose connection.

    Hope this helps.

    Les

    PS: the wiring info is from my '97 service manual. Your '95 Aurora may not be the same.
  • macecynmacecyn Posts: 4
    97 model. Already had the compressor replaced. Now is only blowing cold air out of the passenger vents. Any comments on this? Great car, but in 18 months gone thru 2 alternators and other a/c temp related issues. $$$?
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Take the car to an A/C shop and make sure the system is full. May need a fill/recharge (or they never properly filled the system).
    Also, could be an HVAC controller problem (actuated doors not opening properly on the driver side)...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,699
    If it's a vacuum system like other cars, Buick, in the GM lineup, it could be one of the actuator motors (electric) that moves the vane that controls the relative temp of driver and passenger air.

    Also read where someone had a low freon charge and only one side of the evaporator got cold and that was the side from which the air went primarily to the passenger vents.

    This message has been approved.

  • I have a 2001 Aurora and i'm trying to find out how to replace the bulbs in the tail light and i'm trying to find out how to replace the bulbs for the fog lights, can anyone help me out
  • macecynmacecyn Posts: 4
    Thanks. I got pretty much the same diagnostic from my shop tech. Funny, they seem to know me by name now and recognize the car. Checked it again last night. Now, no a/c at all, although the line after the compressor seems cold. My only regret w/ this used car (59k)is not buying the extended warranty at the dealership.
  • jojo4jojo4 Posts: 4
    The tail lamp should be a lot simpler than it is, but GM created something that makes absolutely no sense. Anyway first thing to do is pull back the carpet. That will expose the black nob like screws that seem to really have no purpose. This is where it gets a little tricky, you have to pull the plastic molding back to expose the three screws that free the whole lamp fixture which you can than completely pull out and change the bulb. The reason its trickey is because the plastic molding isn't made to flex the way that needed to expose the main screws. So try not to break the molding like I did, and if it gives you as much trouble as it gave me, do what I did and change all the bulbs when you finally get the fixture removed. Haven't changed the fog lamps yet. Good luck.
Sign In or Register to comment.