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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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  • I bought this aurora one month ago. It is a 3.5 and has only 36,000 miles. There is something going on with the electrical system. The key less door, trunk, and gas release don't work and sun roof and interior lights, also the buttons from the inside to open the trink and gas lid don't work. From going thru the car it is three differant relays and fuses and they are all working. Any ideas what to look for next.
  • The computer in my 1995 Aurora went bad. Got a new one. Now, do I need to get it flashed or reprogrammed? Because it does not work with the new computer installed. Please help!!!!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    95 not OBDII.
    I had a 95 Regal which had a weird connector. Not OBDII or the connector that was common before it. I never did figure out what the situation was.
    If it is the system prior to OBDII, you had the computer and a chip inside that was preprogrammed to the model of the vehicle. The same computer would be used across several models and sometimes years. My daughter bought a Buick Skyhawk that had several functions not working. Cruise control, torque convertor lock, etc. It turned out the previous owner had a death on highway. Towed to the area dealership and they stole a computer out of a Corsair. Correct computer, wrong chip. I had it to some very good shops that all ended up scratching head. It cost me $30 for the correct chip.
    I think the current practice is that if you buy a computer, you are expected to remove the chip from the old computer. If you no longer have it because of core charge, you will have to buy a new chip. Go to the dealer with the VIN.
  • did you every find what was happening mine keeps blowning the fuse as soon as i start my car :mad:
  • have an 02 aurora olds,and need a tune up bad, check engine light is on .
  • My 97 aurora had the same problem of losing coolant. Mechanic found it was leaking out of the head gaskets externally. This has been a problem with this engine. GM came up with some special pellets that are put into the coolant. The cost was $30 for the pellets and after a couple hundred miles of driving the leak stopped. It has been 2 years now and everything is OK. It is not 100 % certain the pellets will stop the leak. If this did not work the mechanic had another possible solution. It involved some kind of micro (nano) pellets and draining the coolant system. I did not understand this solution, but it was over $100. The only other solution was to take off the heads and have them smoothed down and then replace the gaskets. Had to be done at a dealership and very expensive. Try the pellets.
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    Friend of mine works at a Caddy dealer and told me this is not an uncommon problem with the Northstar engines once they start pushing 120,000 miles, or with any engine with aluminum heads. The GenI 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora has what is loosely referred to by some as the mini-Northstar at 4.0 liters.

    My Aurora did not exhibit these symptoms at 114,000 when I traded it. The only coolant losses I experienced throughout ownership were due to a cracked overflow tank in a place where I could not see it. A failing water pump. And a small leak in the radiator neck by the top hose.

    How did your mechanic determine it was a head gasket leak (internal). From the exhaust? From the motor oil?

    PJ
  • mrkbker1mrkbker1 Posts: 4
    9 years later, how (some of us) learn...I installed platinum+4's in my 2001 aurora at 79,000 miles about 6 years ago, it now has 122,000-still runs like a new car, smooth, quiet, and gets close to 19 mpg in mostly city driving,
  • pscheidpscheid Posts: 190
    edited April 2012
    When in 2010 I (sadly) traded in my black/graphite 1998 GenI Autobahn at 114K miles, it was still on the original plugs, coils, exhaust, and suspension. While my rational brain was telling me to swap out the plugs at 100K miles as prescribed in the maintenance schedule, the car was running like new from start up right up to the red line, and the pure highway gas mileage on cruise was always 26-27mpg with about 19 mixed city/highway. At just shy of 4,000 pounds, the Aurora was no lightweight.

    It "wasn't broke" so I didn't "fix it." Trans was the same as the motor.....smooth and trouble free. What was I anticipating? Head gasket @ 120K at the advice of a friend who worked on Northstars at a Caddy dealer.

    During ownership, here is what I had done as routine maintenance: motor oil changes, one tranny flush/fluid replacement, two replacement sets of brakes, my second set of replacement tires, the belts and hoses of course, and a thermostat just in case.

    What else? Radiator. Water pump. Idler tensioner. Fuel pump and gas tank........neck on fuel tank was rusted off, I live in snow country where the roads are salted. Yet the sheet metal and paint held up nicely, just a quarter-sized bubbling over one of the rear fender wells.

    When the idler tensioner went bad at about 94K, I elected to have the a/c compressor replaced because, while it was running/cooling fine, there was slap in the bearings. "While the car was apart" decision where the labor costs were already spent.

    Why did I get rid of the Aurora? Grandchildren and dogs, needed more hauling capacity. Traded it for a low mileage CPO GenI AWD Cadillac SRX with the Northstar V8, third row seating, and almost every available option including NAV, DVD, Bose, surround, rear A/C, twing package, heated seats, and the largest sunroof ever put on a production vehicle!!!

    The 1998 Olds Aurora was the nicest, most satisfying car I have ever owned in my 45 years of driving. As a replacement vehicle, the SRX still doesn't float my boat quite like the Aurora did. But the practicalities of life intervened as well as the upcoming pipeline maintenace costs on the Aurora which were inevitable. Also, the 4.6L Northstar in the SRX cranks out 320hp and 315lb. ft. of torque. Coupled with the 6 speed trans, it is about 1 second quicker to 60mph than the Aurora. And the AWD provides peace of mind in the snow.

    PJ
  • could be an exhaust backup. The cat could be backed up and or a tube that is going from the throttle body to your thermostat housing. The tube looks like a metal flex tube and is only held down by one bold on each end 13 mm in size. These cars are notorious for getting build up inside of these hoses.

    Good luck.
  • when my car is running for the first 45 min or an hour the oil pressure at idle is from 10 to 19. When the car runs past that time it drops from 0 to 5 and the oil light comes on as well as the warning in the obd. The pressure stays at normal while the rpm is above 1200. another important note to put on here is that when I first start up at cruising speed the oil pressure goes to 75 psi then slowly goes down to 50 psi. Is this a oil pump problem or pressure relief valve or worn out bearings? I also have a 96 aurora that has 250,000 miles on it but doesn't have this problem at all. Any suggestions for the 97 would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance :)
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,635
    Well the oil pump does not directly control oil *pressure*, only flow. It's the clearances in your engine that determine oil pressure in most cases; HOWEVER, a pressure relief valve can also exhibit your symtoms--in your case, the condition would be a partly open/partly closed relief valve.

    Other possibilities, aside from worn bearings, might be a defective seal in the oil pump pickup tube (sort of an internal oil leak).

    your oil pressure specs are:

    Minimum Pressure at Normal Operating Temperature at Idle: 35 kPa (5 psi)
    Minimum Pressure at Normal Operating Temperature at 2000 RPM: 250 kPa (35 psi)
  • My 1998 Aurora oil pressure varies greatly; 45 kPa at idle and 250 kPa at driving speeds - has been doing this at least since 75,000 Kms. I was worried but the GM dealers said it was not a problem. I now have over 200,000 Kms and no problem with the engine. In addition to the other suggestions, could this be false readings based upon some weakness in the sensing mechanism?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,635
    Sure, it's always a good alternative to plug in a manual (analog) gauge before one tears apart an engine.
  • brinwoodbrinwood Posts: 32
    my 97 with 150000 has 62 PSI at start up, 9 at hot idle.
  • donnapacadonnapaca Posts: 26
    My instrument cluster just stoped working and engine died. Engine restarted fine, but no instruments working. After about 5 minutes after being off, everything reset. This just happened for the second time. Did yours go out all at once or intermitant?
    Did you get new cluster from dealer?
    Thanks your your imput.
    Don
  • donnapacadonnapaca Posts: 26
    I just saw your post while researching my cluster stopping working. After turning it off for a few minutes it reset and worked. This happened twice within 30 minutes.
    How did you resolve your problem? ( I know it is an old post)
    I just checked with the local dealer and they said new not available, just send in for repair if it turns out that is needed.
  • dkarnesdkarnes Posts: 4
    My rear view mirror fell off today, it is fairly heavy with compass integrated. Looks like a thin stickrum layer held it to the mirror, Anyone know can you purchase that separately and it looks like there is a metal mount in the housing that may pop out to mount the mirror on, once it is glued to the window?

    I have another job to do on the car, replace the transmission filter , has anyone done that, looks like there are two separate filters.

    Also have the red indicator lite out on the transmission gear shift console. Is that a lite that is easy to get to??
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,635
    yeah, if the mirror fell off the glass itself, and the mount didn't break, you can buy a re-glue kit at autozone, Kragen, etc. The TRICK is to make sure your new gluing area is spotlessly clean. Follow directions carefully and it should be a successful repair. And that's right, you slide the mirror off the mount, and glue the mount on first.
  • dkarnesdkarnes Posts: 4
    Thanks ,I will work on getting the mount off, I picked up a repair kit, the original mirror mount had a small piece of pliable material between the mount and the glass, suspect I should re-glue it in?
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