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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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  • 2k1olds2k1olds Posts: 98
    'rora in for a oil change Sunday. Now, since yesterday, the car has a vibration (both idling in park and on the road). When you're sitting there in park and rev it, the vibration starts at about 1200 rpm and continues through about 2700 rpm and then goes away and smooths out. But, when driving, it has the vibration all the time, even when coasting. The vibration is not in the steering wheel, just a seat of the pants feel. Any idea what could have happened? They said the tires were all overinflated by 10 psi (40 instead of 30), which means they were balanced at 40, compliments of the people that did the last oil change. It can't be the tires, because it vibrates while sitting in park. Anybody else have this happen??
  • 98 Aurora with Autobaun .... has intermittent blower ... even turning blower to high it will blow at whatever speed it chooses ... sometimes it will not blow at all. GM manual says it could be the blower control module or the programer .. any experience with this out there?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Is the oil level proper? I'd check that since that's all that changed. You might try to note the consistency of it also to ensure it's the right weight (might be hard to do).
  • I just took my '96 Aurora in for an oil change/coolant flush/AC recharge and the dealer had recall parts on hand and did the recall for me. They replaced the fuel rail with a stainless steel one, took them about 1-2 hours I think. I think I got pushed to the back of the line when they figured out it needed recalling, I took the car in at 7 AM and didnt get it till 6 PM. They didnt replace the fuel return line, however.

    Greg

    '96 Autobahn
  • buckdogbuckdog Posts: 19
    Just had this happen to me, started working intermitrntly for a couple of days then just quit working alltogether. I checked everything fuses, blower motor and everything checked ok. What it ended up being was the blower control module $97 at dealer only. When I unpluged one of the two connectors, the one with only one red wire, the pin from the module was burned off and melted permenatly right inside the connector. So I had to cut off the conn. and crimp a hardware style slip on connector in its place. That module must of really got hot at one time to burn the pin right off. The module is just to the left of the blower motor mounted to the side caseing of the HVAC ductwork, two screws hold it on. Its got a rather large heat sink on it that you can't see because it's inside the duct, with that size of heat sink I know there's smoe heat being generated.
      ,good luck Dan
  • Dan,
    Thanks for the feedback ... my blower wasn't working at all yesterday so I pulled the control module out to see if there were any burned wires. Negative .. The GM service manual has a troubleshooting flowchart that anyone with a voltmeter can use to trace trace the problem. Bingo it pointed right to the blower control module. I left the module out of its compartment because I didn't have the replacement part yet. The blower started working half way to work this AM ... I burned my hand on that heatsink thing trying to see just how warm it gets when working correctly. Next time you need parts you might want to check out http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ My total cost with shipping came to $62.16 for the blower control module. PN 52470336 .. These are OEM GM parts.
  • The two that control AC function and fan speed ..
    Anybody got the GM part number of these for the 95 through 99 model year?
  • buckdogbuckdog Posts: 19
    The blower cont. mod. for the '95 is GM PT#12368388 GMONLINE cost is 101.06 and that is what the dealer said it would be. But when I went to the cashier she said it was $97.00 and I said "I like u too". Don't know why the 2 diff prices but I didn't ask. Why do you have a diff price? Also the new one I got has a better design. Looks to have bigger cooling fins but works just fine.
  • buckdogbuckdog Posts: 19
    I took a double look and you are right, a 50% savings @ gm parts direct. I'll deffinatly book mark that sight! THANKS
  • Found it ... 16165959 KNOB,HTR

    can be had from gmpartsdirect.com for $7.51 ea plus S/H
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    I believe the fuel return line recall is only for the 95's as 96 and 97's are different.

    That's probably why 95's haven't been called yet.
  • Hey! I'm a firsttimer here...have a 1997 Aurora, bought it two months ago with 50k miles on it. Some of the interior lights have gone out (behind the DIC, the passenger side door, etc.) and I was wondering where you can get the lights and how to replace them. Also, my sunroof has gone goofy lately. It doesn't all the way back when you press the button; you have to hit the button again to get it to go all the way back. That's not a big deal, but when you press the button to close it, it doesn't stop when it's sealed. It goes straight to being popped up, and it makes a popping/clicking sound if you hold the button down. Any help would be great!

    Jesse
  • The huge piece of the dash that arches from the driver's door to the other side of the center stack is pulling away from the rest of the dash. I assume it's from warping. Looks like it could be pushed back underneath and reglued, but might be a serious job. This happen to anybody else?
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    Mine is just starting to warp itself. Where the piece you're talking about, meets the other dash piece near the windshield base. Just hoping it doesn't get worse.

    I guess if it does, I just replace it as it wasn't too complicated, or looked so, when I put my new bezel cover (the clear piece) in. It felt like there was only a few more screws or things holding it on behind the radio, probably around the vent. At the max, a 3 hr. job.
  • jay800jay800 Posts: 12
    99 Aurora 94,000 KM (55,000 miles)
    I am having th same problem at idle, more noticeable when the a/c is on. Fine during acceleration, exept the first second from a stand-still, then it is fine until idle.

    A few weeks ago I noticed hesitation while accelerating and decided to change the plugs and fuel press. regulator. Well the plugs were disgusting and I put in new Iridium plugs.

    At first it was like magic, this thing was flying...no hesitation and the new FPR fixed the hard starts perfectly. NOW as time goes on the idle keeps geting worse and worse, so I think I'll go back to the AC Delco plugs, but after reading your issue, it seems like the same thing? It feeels like a mis-firing cylinder like you said?

    The TAC is bouncing when I feel the mis-firing, again only during idle.

    I'll keep checking to see if there are any ideas before I bring it in...

    THX. Jay
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    There is some TSB on this on 2001 4.0s. Something about the license plate screws have to have some kind of backing or fitting on them otherwise they let water right in. Even though it won't be free, the dealer might be the best route if you aren't a DIY'er.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am waiting to hear what the solution is for this problem. I have the issue of erratic idle also. By the way I have about 98k on the car. Are you guys around the same mileage?
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Posts: 207
    I would suggest putting back in the stock AC Delco plugs. These engines are very touchy when it comes to the spark plugs, wires ect.... Lots of people have had problems when using aftermatket plugs/wires. I tried Bosch before and they worked fine for a few months. Then I developed a horrible misfire. Took it to the dealer and they put back in the AC Delco plugs and the mechanic told me never put anything , but AC Delco plugs in a Northstar engine.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    On an older engine like yours, check all the "rubber" under the hood. By that I mean the pvc fittings and any other rubber elbows. The heat our engine makes does a number on them. I found both pvc elbows were cracked, the one the PVC connects to as well as the one to the intake and whatever that thing on top of the TB is (any ideas?).
  • jay800jay800 Posts: 12
    Thanks, I will put AC Delco plugs back in.

    Also, when the car is idling in park or neutral, the problem is alsmost non-existant. As soon as I slide it into drive (especially when the air is on)it misfires terribly until I move.

    I'll let you know how it reacts with the AC plugs back in.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have been told that my issue is the ignition control module (ICM). The rough idle for a car of my year and mileage is not unheard of. I just dont get the connection between the idle and the ignition control module. I guess that why I am an accountant.
  • samtsamt Posts: 1
    Has anyone had a problem with the back windows? mine have dropped about 4 inches and will not retract back up. wonder if anyone else has had this problem.
  • ethinkethink Posts: 32
    I recently received a new GM NorthStar engine for my 1996 Aurora. Here is what happened:

    The engine started to leak oil on my garage floor at 88,000 miles. Prior to this, I had never had an oil leak that showed up on my garage floor.

    I had the service department at my dealership (Curran Cadillac, Westport, CT) check the engine for leaks. The finding was leaks on the block at the cylinder heads as well as the bottom of the block. A common problem for the NorthStar engine.

    The Service Manager recommended that I replace the engine seals to correct the problem. This seemed like a good idea; since I had an extended warranty and this repair would "only" cost me a $100 deductible.

    The repair was done using Time-serts for the aluminum heads and block. This is a recommended, BUT NOT GM required service procedure.
    Unfortunately, the Time-sert repair did NOT last beyond 500 miles due to "brittleness" of the original block. This seems to be a problem with NorthStar block from the 1996 timeframe.

    The Service Manager at the dealership worked very hard on my behalf to arrange with GM GoodWrench Service to replace the engine. The rational was that the car had always been maintained by the factory schedule and serviced at the dealership.

    It took about (4) weeks, but I did end up with a new GM GoodWrench Northstar Engine with a 12,000 mile warranty.
  • jay800jay800 Posts: 12
    Well I put the AC Delco plugs back in – man these were just as expensive as the iridium….

    The car is now idling as it should. Good lesson - stay away from the after market plugs, particularly the iridium. Even the parts-store guy said they have discontinued their iridium plugs due to issues like mine.

    I checked the gap on the outbound iridium plugs, and they were all roughly .010 too wide, and I only had to adjust a couple of the AC Delco’s to the .050 gap.

    All good for now……except the $200.00 worth of plugs I’ve purchased in the last 4 weeks. Not sure if I can take the iridium plugs back to Canadian Tire…..
  • sephrothsephroth Posts: 15
    After Hurricane Charley (lucky a tree did not fall on my Aurora) I think some water may have gotten into the engine. I starting my car the day after the hurricane and the parking lights and dashboard lights started turning on and off very quickly. The noise from the dashboard is a clicking sound just like the sound the twilight sentinal makes when activated. I have turned the twilight sentinal off but the vehicle still flickers the lights on and off. Even when I walk away from the car hours later you can see the rear lights still flickering on and off. I pulled the parking lights fuse out of the rear seat panel. So now I am unable to drive the car at night. Any suggestions? I was looking for the fuse for the twilight sentinal to see if that would take care of the problem but I could not find it. Does anyone know where it is located?
  • sephrothsephroth Posts: 15
    Get this...after replacing the clyinder 7 plug and the pvc valce the car was fine for 2 weeks and now again I have the same problem however no misfiring codes are showing up. Maybe the MAF sensor as suggested by a guy at autozone?
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    It's your multifunction switch. It has too much grease. I found a detailed writeup on another board - Google for this, or pester me in a day or so and I'll try to find the writeup for you...
  • Yep..the multifunction switch on the steering column is the culprit. My 95 classic did the same thing and so did lots of other Aurora's. But would GM acknowledge a problem when they can charge $500 or more to replace....no way!

    Headlights and other lights flash on and off even with the car shut off and noone near it. I have heard about the grease theory but my dealer denied grease was the cause when I asked him about it. So I paid the money like all the other easy touches that GM has lined up.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Oldsmobile Aurora multifunction switch grease

    For me, it's the second search result.
  • 01wht3501wht35 Posts: 8
    I have the same issue. Could be sunroof? My windscreen broke recently on one side and I have to push the windscreen down and hold it when I close roof. I also suspect that the door seals are poor. I have twice had water in my doors. Going to dealer as soon as they get up and running after Charley (Arcadia DLR). I also had leak in trunk when I purchased car. DLR fix liscense plate seal at no cost. This roof leak is a problem. I have H2O that POURS out of the sunroof/homelink controls and down the windshield and back window. Just another of the MANY problems I have with this car. I have had 10+ GMs and this may be my LAST. I really did love this car but like the SLS, it gives me too much trouble!!! I will let you know what I find out with the leak. mrc
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