Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

samchoc

Looks like your gonna have to buy a new key for your car. What i would do is go to your GM dealer and order a new set of keys. I dont know how much its going to be but its probably the only option because i dont think you can repair the key itself...

imidazol97

If your VATS system that locks the starter out after three attempts to crank with a key that doesn't match the resistor reading is like that on my 98 LeSabre, I'd go for the bypass if that's what's causing the problem. A resistor is put into the cable at the foot of the steering column that bypasses the whole key and cylinder contacts and wiring that's breaking in the column.

A shop that installs remote starter systems has the resistor packs to replace the VATS resistor sinc their system takes over the security for the car.

Does your systemdo that where it takes three tries and then you're locked out or are you locked out from the first try?

maryp

Thank you for your response. The first dealer said that this safety alert to "clean key wait 3 minutes" happened because the car had an after market remote starter. Even though they were told that the message was showing up on the information bar BEFORE the remote starter was installed, I agreed to have the RS and all of its components removed. This did not solve the problem, it has become worse over time and now the average wait to get the key to work in the ignition is 15 minutes +/-. (It doesn't lock me out, if I turn the key and nothing happens, I get the message to try again in 3 minutes, then 3 more minutes, etc. until it starts.)

I took the car to a different dealer today and was told that the sensor needs to be replaced and new keys issued. This will cost between $350-$400 as they need to access it through the steering column. It's beginning to look as though I don't have a choice. Do these cars really NEED to have keys with chips? My 2001 Aurora does not have an external chip it just looks like a regular key.

I really like this forum. We used the extensive directions from this site,(along with the help of my brother-in-law and his friend), to access and clean the multi-function switch on this vehicle. It seemed a huge undertaking to me; but the directions were explicit and saved me the $600 estimated dealer cost to replace the switch. Better yet, no more flashing parking lights!

samchoc

My Aurora 2001 as a chip in the key. If you read in your owners manual it will tell you that all Auroras as one.

imidazol97

I don't understand what this means?

dr_turbo

Hi folks, need your expert advice on my 96 aurora. Just this AM after turning key on I noticed none of the gages jumped to life and the information center gave me no information after starting the car. The runs fine but I have no gages working. I checked all the fuses (there must be a million of them) and all seem ok. What have I missed? What else to look for?

paul

greenaurora

Les,
Thanks for your answer to my post several months ago regarding the FPR. My car was getting hard to start so I finally replaced the FPR (I am a procrastinator!). Now my 98 starts right up.

kstrick62

I had a very similar problem with the warning messages, including "A/C off" and the temperature spiking out before it all would start shaking pretty badly and I'd pull off the road. I found that the water pump belt had been totally shredded. It is on the driver's side of the engine under a shield so you don't see it until you remove the shield. Apparently, there is a rod running thru the top of the engine block being driven by the serpintine across to the other side for the water pump.

Hope this helps.

Kent

kstrick62

Les,
I don't have a clue about the starter solenoid connection, but I do have a similar problem on my 95 Aurora with the blower inside the passenger foot well (not sure if that is HVAC or not) continuing to blow (fairly high) even after I shut the engine off. It continued for several hours while I looked around this site for clues... The only thing I could figure for the short-term is pull the fuse under the rear seat. The best response I saw sounded like it might be a Blower motor control module (?). A) Do you agree, and b) where is it? I pulled a few things from around the blower, but don't know enough about electrical to just start unplugging stuff. Any clues for what to look for?
Kent

imidazol97

Follow the power lead from the blower to a piece of electronics that is on the air box where the blower's air goes. The blower control module has to be in the air stream to cool the power resistors in it.

It's like the resistors of old days that were used to reduce voltage to the blowers. When you picked any lower speed the wire connected to the resistors, like toaster wires, inside the blower box. The number of resistors the power went through determined the lower voltage the blower got and thus a lower speed. If the air quit blowing, the resistors would burn up, or sometimes they just burned up on their own.

The modern electronic control gives many variable speeds for the auto air conditioning. I don't have a diagram of your Aurora, but I'm going by how the Park Aves and LeSabres are built.

The piece will be about 1 X 3.5 inchees and about 5-7 inches long in the direction that is inside the air stream inside the blower box.

kstrick62

Thanks. I'll give it a look this weekend when I've got time.

blk97aurora

Kent,

Close but no cigar (well, maybe half). The "rod" is one of the four camshafts, none of which are driven by the serpentine belt. They are driven by the timing chains.

I like this arrangement because the pump belt and tensioner are very easy to replace (unlike the serpentine and its tensioner) and losing the serpentine belt has no effect on the coolant pump unlike most other engines.

Les

pizza442

My wife seemed to be able to do that to our 95. Turns out that she was somehow holding/not allowing the ign. switch to fully pop back to the 'on' position after turning it to the spring loaded 'start' position. The spring was strong enough to pull it back so the starter didn't keep cranking, but the key/switch was lost in no-man's land between on and start so the gauges were dead. All I did was grab the key and make sure it was on 'on' and the gauges fired up; even though the engine already had! This is probably due to mechanical wear in the ignition mechanism in the column or a weak spring within that mechanism.
Jay

kstrick62

Les,
You're right. I just knew "something" was driving the belt on the other end for the water pump.

I actually stumbled on to this by accident in a totally unrelated discussion. But, when I saw "water pump" referenced, I knew having an overheating condition, I better check it out. Luckily enough, it was just a $6 belt and it was pretty easy to get to and fix once I knew where to look.

Thanks for the clarification. Any thoughts on what type of technical reference manual to use for a '95 Aurora. The closest I've been able to find is a Haynes Repair Manual for '94 - '02 Cadillac DeVille/Seville...
Kent

blk97aurora

Kent,

If only the other repairs were as easy as the pump belt!

I strongly recommend the two-volume factory service manual from Helm. At ~$135 from HELM (if I remember correctly) it is a bit pricey but worth it. You can often find them on eBay for considerably less.

Les

95auroranewbie

O-kay, Heres the deal

just purchased (from a FREIND) a 1995 aurora,classic I believe, I have a few questions, but most I think i can find through the forum.

1 question I am not sure of is

I have a 95 (with a 94 born on date on the drivers side door), I have found a parts car with the steering wheel on the floor and an engine that runs for $300 (A Steal for the engine and tranny alone) The parts car is a 96(with matching colors all the way through). I need to know what are technical and the mechanical differences between the two? I have numerous problems with cosmetic things ie.. dash lights, rear power window, sunroof. I also have issues with others, mainly the AC does not work, for what ever reason, and also might need to change or repair the tranny, and also spare parts like free ignit. coils, fans, pulleys, etc. etc. etc.

to keep it short, can I pull the other ac compressor and see if it works, I have noticed on the 96 there is a different button where the pass cont button is. I beilive it is an air recirculation button. can I leave the original duct system and use the newer compressor, or need to replace various parts???

if so there are multiple parts that play affect, will it work???

possible changes??

1 AC compressor
2 duct system ( if Pheasable )
3 AC controls ( different button )
4 (And Lord forbid) The Computer, which I am usure of because of the OBDI and the OBDII issue

Help would be much appreciated!! by the way 150,000 miles on both vehicles, and I know that I shouldn't mix and match worn equipment, but paid 1500 for the car (monthly installments of 150 which i couldn't pass) and i figure theres going to be a long road the beast, but I do enjoy the heck out of it, and a spare motor to start overhualing
(FINGERS CROSSED, Free manuals apreciated!!) to keep me busy. I JUST CANT GO OUT AND BUY $600 dollar vintage parts for the touchy car Thanxx

blk97aurora

Welcome to Auroras.

I do not have definitive answers to your questions, but I think I can help. I own a '97. We use "classic" to distinguish '95-'99 from 2001+.

There were quite a few changes from '95 to '96:
* OBD I to OBD II is probably the most important. I would be very surprised if swapping the '96 computer into your '95 would be "plug-and-play." The '95 had a changeable EPROM; later years did not. For this reason the '95 is the only Aurora that can have a performance chip installed.
* the backglass was reshaped to reduce visual distortion
* panic button was added to remote keyless entry
* door locks were made programmable
* as you noted, recirculation was added to climate control system
* plumbing to the surge tank changed ('95 has two hoses at the top, later years have only one)
* only '95's have a black rectangular box over the coils. I have never figured out what that is. The coils and ignition mogule are the same '95-'99.

I do not know of any reason that changing the compressor would necessitate changing the passenger compartment ductwork. That would be a bear of a job. AC compressors siezing is a common Aurora problem.

Power windows not working is often caused by broken wires where they are flexed by the doors being opened and closed.

Someone used to sell an Aurora parts list on eBay; I haven't noticed lately if it is still being sold. That would allow you to determine the differences in part numbers from year to year.

eBay can be a good source for new and used parts. I recommend getting the Helm factory service manual.

Good luck.

Les

dr_turbo

Jay, I just want thank you so much for offering your advice, that was exactly the problem. There is something in the switch or the key that caused the gages not to work. They work now thanks to you!!!!!!
This board is the greatest. Thanks to all the others that offered suggestions.

paul

blk97aurora

I forgot to mention the fuel rail safety recall. You may have already found this, but if not, here goes:

Check the fuel rail in both cars. Original was hard, black nylon that often cracked, spewing gas, and burning several Auroras. The replacement is stainless steel. GM pays for the replacement. I don't know about the '96 parts car, though.

Les

95auroranewbie

95auroranewbie

Posted message LAST NIGHT, and I think it heard me.

Woke up this morn to go to the store to get some smokes, and low and behold!!!!

Shift out of park, into reverse and the dang thing ROLLS forward, it wont go into any gears, besides park( which it does engage ) Checked tranny fluid and it was bone dry, I know how, and when to check trans fluid, but 6 hours before it was running fine. poured plenty of juice back in praying that a gear will engage, but no such luck (of Course). NOT a transmission man, nor do I want to be (too many gears, naturally) The car had just been in 2 months ago for the not shifting out of second gear problem.

Havent done any undercar work as of yet, but I dont seem to see this problem on the Bulletins. I can get a replacement tranny but GEEZ. Is this a possible linkage problem (not the driver linkage funny guys). Should I repair or replace,
the other trannys condition is unknown, but with my luck here lately I dont want to press. IS this a fix it over the weekend or do I need a pro. Mechanically inclined, but have ZERO experience with Trannys ( always owned a stick )

by the way 6 quarts went in and its empty now, I know I know I got a leak, could that be the only problem, unlikely.

and another thing that car is the heaviest thing around, I had to use a come a long, and tree to get it in a decent spot to start the fun.

Yalls info is much appreciated THANX

p.s. didnt get the car in the right spot until dark, so didn't get a good look, but didnt notice a river if transmission fluid. GEEZ

wolf557

I need help with this issue. fixing my car. My pressure hose is leaking and I am going through fluid like crazy. Can I just replace the rubber part of the hose, or do I have to replace the whole line? 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora V8 :sick:

jagir03

Hi, on my 96 Aurora the climate control unit works sometimes and other times there is no display lights on the climate control panel but the fan runs on slow speed when this happens I have no control whatsoever on fan knob, did anybody else have this problem I need a solution please because I live in north part of Canada and is starting to get cold. Thanks for any help.

dlapadula

I should have given up on the Aurora a couple of months ago, but just couldn't. Solved the overheating problem and everything seemed okay, until Friday. I got the message "check charging system". By the time I was able to get to the stop sign to turn, the car died. Was able to pull off the road and park. Left it there until after work, them it started, ran for about a mile and began losing power. It is sitting in front of my garage right now. The voltage when I got the message was 9.8. I charged the battery, but that does not seem to be the problem. Have not tried to start it since pulling it into the drive way, but I think it will start. Any ideas? Is it cost effective to fix and trade in? Can it be fixed and work for awhile?

coreyg1

Hi there,

I recently had a similiar problem, the fan would work intermitenly, then would only blow a little bit of air. Then it gave out all together, and would blow no air.

For my fix it was the blower control module, hope this helps.

C

dmaisto

I recently have had trouble with my battery going dead overnight. I went to Advance Auto and they said that the battery was good and so was the alternator. But he did say that the tester was showing some kind of drain, even with the car off. So I took it to my local mechanic. First of all I have had trouble with the CD player getting CD's stuck in it. My trunk and fuel door openers don't work, my power antenna doesn't work either. My mechanic has had my car for a week now. He has disconnected the radio. But the battery was dead in the morning. He fixed the trunk and fuel openers but it still was dead in the morning.

Can anyone help me! Before I spend a small fortune on this? What else may be draining the battery???

jagir03

Hello, coreygl thanks for your reply I was just wondering where the Blower control module is located on the vehicle were you able to change it yourself and how much did it cost for the part. Thanks again

benderde

You did not say how old your battery was. I had a similar problem but instead just dead every morning my electrical system was going crazy. Lights flashing or staying on ticking in dashboard. It turned out to be the battery even though it said it had enough of voltage. Good luck.

coreyg1

Sorry i am of no help when it comes to locating and replacing the part. The cost of the part i seem to recall it being at or around $100. Good luck.

imidazol97

I'm not an Aurora expert nor owner but I think someone said the blower control module was inside the car on their Aurora. Find the blower motor, a round circular bolt in plate about 6 inches in diameter and the blower control module will be bolted in close to it. Follow the power cable, purple or red or orange, from the blower motor to the control module.

I believe this picture is the shape of the part for your car. The ribbed surface is inside the blower case so that it's cooled by the air flow past it. Notice the two bolts holding it against the case.

blower control module

ehasley

Hey everyone,

I had to part with my dear 4.0 '97 Classic. Its a shame too because of the other black aurora i see in my area none are as nice looking. The car had serious overheating problems, and other problems since i purchased it used. I loved the car the power, the features THE POWER! God that car had guts. But i had either a cracked head or a bad head gasket. I know this, i put an emissions sniffer in my pressure tank for the anti-freeze and the exhaust gasses were over 2500 ppm

so i parted with the lady, hardwired the fans to run constantly and had the heater running (in the summer mind you) just to keep it drivable. then i pawned it off as a trade to a dealer and got my import. I mean so far... on the mitsubishi forms... no problems

great car... too many bugs... wasnt worth keeping it. if i want more power... ill get a turbo

Good luck former auROARAs
Evan

dmaisto

I don't know how old the battery is. My mechanic put a new alternator in it this week. But my rear window won't work, my fog lights won't come on and my antenna stopped working. He has checked everything so far. He is still working to find why these things won't work. Could it be the battery or is there a short of some kind.

hangfire

I have a '98 Aurora with 140k. My wife went to open the sunroof part way and even when she let up on the switch the roof opened all the way, made a grinding sound then reversed direction all the way to the vent position. When she tried to close it again, it did the same thing. She was finally able to get the roof closed almost all the way. It needs to travel a little further but can be pushed down to keep rain out. AllData gives info on possible problems but is bad at describing where things are. I want to find the clutch and manual 4mm hex closure but it's described as 'Above the rear of the headliner". Does anyone know if this is in front of the rear window or to the rear of the sunroof? I don't want to pull down any more of the headliner than necessary. If I can get the roof closed tight, we'll leave it alone for now. Thanks in advance. Hangfire

demondog

Same problem with my 95. To fix it I unplugged the PCM under the passenger dash and waited a few minutes. Plugged it back in and the hard shift problem was gone.

Hope that helps

dr_turbo

Someone posted a response to this where it was the ignition switch causing this problem. I am having the same problem and was able to rectify it once, now I can't get the gages to work whatever I do with the switch. What causes this in the ignition switch? I tried both keys but no luck with either. Is it a problem with the switch? This is in my 96. Thanks

paul

bugs7

What is a PCM and where is it located? I have the same problem with my 95

Thanks,

David

ramou

Did u ever find out what was causing this. I have that problem now and it's annoying as hell..thanks.

ramou

Henry, do u remember how much this cost and what it was..?

ramou

Can someone please help with this..? A bunch of us are experiencing this slaming in reverse while the check engine light is on. If I drive it for a while I can get the light to go off and the transmission won't slam as long as the check engine light is not on. It also shifts firm when that light is on until it goes off. Can someone please advise what this is and how we can fix it. Someone mentioned a sensor/selenoid or a relay(hopefully and not internal transmission..thanks for the help.

djstaks

I HAVE A 1995 AURORA WITH A 125,000 MILES ON IT.EVERYTHING ON THE CAR RUNS PERFECT BUT WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE IT SHUTS OFF AND I HAVE TO SORTA PLAY WITH IT TO GET IT TO REVERSE WITHOUT SHUTTING OFF.COULD IT BE THE REVERSE RELAY SWITCH AND IF SO HOW MUCH WOULD THAT COST???THANKS

dindallas

I am trying to get my car inspected and the check engine light keeps coming on. The Error Code is P0410 - Secondary Air Pump Malfunction. I disconnected the battery and the check engine light went away but it still did not pass. They said that no readouts on several sensors. The light is back on. What is a P0410 and how do I get it to go away? The fuse is good. I don't know where to find the relay nor do I know how to check to see if the pump is working.

Any help is appreciated.

brentgray

Did you ever find the solution to the serv stability system

akwebb81

01 aurora with 68k miles. a few weeks ago I came out to start my car and all I got was CLICKING, however, not when I turned the key to try and start it... It clicked once I released the key. I removed the battery cables and cleaned them, minor amount of corrosion, but not too bad, put them back on and it started fine. I thought it may be time for a new battery since it looked like the original battery. It didn't happen again so I kind of forgot about changing the battery. Last night I took the car to go out and I noticed the Check engine light was on. I pulled over and turned off the car and then tried to turn it back on. Clicking just like before. Repeated steps as before and car started, but with the Check engine light still on. Went and got a new battery this morning, however noticed that the old battery really wasn't as old as I thought it was(maybe 2yrs old at max). Put the new battery in, Check engine light is still on. What could this be? Not starting and check engine light related? Battery problem at all? Also as a sidenote, I've noticed that the key is extremely warm once removed from the ignition after driving. Any help is appreciated

zransom

So two days ago I bought a 1999 aurora with 120000 miles knowing it had a check engine light on. The car runs nice and smooth at low speeds with a little hesitation when rolling, however on the highway its a little rough and the light is flashing. I checked the code and it was a cylinder 1 misfire. I then changed the plugs, wires, and coil. The cylinder 1 misfire persitently appears leaving me only one conclusion, the fuel injector. If anyone else has any other ideas it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

akwebb81

Just got the car back... No idea about the electrical, the mechanic that worked on it was not there when I picked it up. The check engine light was the secondary air system, replaced the regulatory valve, $400.00 p/l. I'm still not sure about the electrical system.

zransom

Does anyone know the best way to clean fuel injectors other than running a fuel additive or taking it to a dealer. I have only one cylinder missfiring and I replaced the coil plug and wire so next I'm gonna try to either replace the injector itself or try to clean them.

fburglaw

Last night my DIC went blank and won't show any display(other than "Drvier #" when starting) and the clock has frozen at 12:00. Everything else seems okay. Anyone with any suggestions about what the problem may be? Hoping it is as simple as a fuse, but just don't know. Help, Please.

dr_turbo

My DIC and dash panel instruments do not read anything. Its like they are not getting power. My clock still works cause it is on the radio. I checked all fuses but they are good. Sometimes when I am driving they will come on out of the blue and then next time when I go to start the car nothing comes up on the dash or DIC. I have a 96.

paul

phil95

I would like to know where that PCM is also. and what it is. I too slam into reverse on my 95
Phil

phil95

Is that the Power Control Module? and is it marked or labeled?
Phil