Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair



  • #1. Yeah, you're right..I forgot to mention that, you'll still need to release the tension on the pulley. But no, the torque-axis mount does not need to come off and none of those bolts have to be removed. Hopefully, taking that plastic trim out of the wheel well will help you I said, I don't remember for sure if I had to do that last time (it was a few months ago that I did the job).

    #2. You can see on the tensioner assembly in the picture, the slot for a "breaker-bar". To get the belt up onto the tensioner, you can sneak it in between the pulley and the block and then seat it...but at some point you'll have to release the tension with your breaker-bar so you can seat the belt correctly on all of the pulleys. I hope I'm not just confusing you more here :)

    The bottom line is that the axis-mount (the huge metal bracket) was not designed to come out for this job. After having to deal with it in that old post, I'm not sure that they designed it to ever come out, unless the engine came with it!

    The belt does not need to work "around" all of the pulleys, it has to work in between them. You know from trying that there is no way to go around the entire bracket with the have to feed the belt inside and work from there.

    Now I know I'm getting confusing. Wish I could help further.
  • Good evening,

    Well just got in from the garage. stickking1 was right, really was not to tough if you got the picture. After getting the bolts back in on the guard. I had a look at the tensioner, once I figured out where it is. Then I found the square looking up at me, and played with an eight inch 3/8 extension to loosen it. The breaker bar had a bendy end, so it would not do anything for me. Taking the plastic lower wheel/underneath trim also provided very good access to the pulleys. Once I had the belt routing down, thanks to the picture, I had the belt completely on, except the AC compressor pulley, which had a small edge not on all the way. A few quick cranks and it was on right. Started it up, and its doing great! From 11.5 to 14.5 volts - cool!

    I did not have time to do the water pump belt... Hope I dont regret it... I got to get up early tomorrow, as I got to get my wife to the hospital to deliver our 3rd baby - the boy! My wife really didnt want to go in any other car but the Aurora. At least now, its ready for the ride.

    Thanks all for the help! Special thanks to stickking1! Again, this group has helped me save $$$ on Aurora repairs!

  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    The waterpump belt I was referring too (I hope I didn't cause you to think I was referring to the main belt earlier) is a piece of cake compared to the main belt. Everything is much more obvious. I should have mentioned sneaking past the tensioner with the main belt also. It was probably only because I had a good belt diagram from the alldata site I have a subscription for, that I didn't have to do some trial and error disassembly.
  • mrdubyamrdubya Posts: 200
    the surging continues. it seems like it surges at ALL speeds whenever i get on it, anyone know?? have this problem? i wouldn't even know where to begin to look.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    "I got to get up early tomorrow, as I got to get my wife to the hospital to deliver our 3rd baby - the boy! My wife really didnt want to go in any other car but the Aurora. At least now, its ready for the ride."

    Hm, seems like the little guy is already an Aurorian. I guess we all know what his 1st car will be. . .
          ------> CONGRATULATIONS <--------
  • For the heck of it try an idle relearn and TPS reset. Let me know if you want me to post the procedure.

    Other than that if nothing shows on a scan my first guess is the infamous FPR. Theres probably something mechanically wrong with it that is screwing up the fuel pressure.

    I had a problem with my Rora needing excessive cranking to start. I didnt think it was the FPR because I examined it and it looked fine. But after a few mechanics couldnt find the cause I changed the FPR just for the heck of it. Solved the problem. Only reason I post this story is because even though the FPR may look like its working fine with no gas sitting in the tube it may still have an internal problem.
  • Good to hear everything went well, and congrats on the newcomer! Mike98 is right, the water pump belt is a cinch compared to the big one. It's a 5 or 10 minute job really...Piece of cake.

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    The surging sounds like fuel to me, but of course it could be other things. When you said it was high-rpm, high throttle-opening only, I was thinking fuel filter, or possibly the fuel pump isn't putting it out like it used to.

    Now that it is all the time, it could be that the filter rapidly got worse, but that seems sort of unlikely. Maybe the pump is going, or the FPR (which seems common). It could be electrical or something as well, but it just sounds like fuel...
  • what do u mean by "excessive"? Mine takes forever to start some times. Also my rev-down is quite rough. any ideas?
  • I could SWEAR that's sunlight I see shining on your engine. I am incredibly jealous...almost forgot what it looked like.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    This morning the car cranked slow (it started) but it was 16 degrees below zero in the Twin Cities metro area in Minnesota lol. Of course that was pretty balmy compared to some spots that were 43 degrees below a little north of here in Minnesota.
  • mrdubyamrdubya Posts: 200
    i changed the FPR about a year ago, so i don't think it would be that, could be, but i don't think it would go out that easy. maybe its getting worse, but now, even mid throttle (like 4-4.5k shifts) have the surge feel. from a dead stop if i floor it it takes off (easing into it cause its so cold, the tires just spin) it has a few bad surges, all the way up to rpms.

    how hard is it to change the fuel filter? i know my last car was easy, but ive heard sometimes there a pain to get to. i suppose i should try this first, as it needs to be replaced anyway. also, my gas mileage went down the crapper. avg is 13.4. i do all city driving, and its COOOOLD (-16 in mn like mike said!) which im sure is effecting it, but it still feels too low.

    ive heard of the leaky fuel rail, where does it leak? is it visible? should i check with it on? i checked when i got home, didn't smell gas or see any when i took the cover off

    it DEFINATLY feels fuel related

  • Dubya, swapping out the fuel filter is pretty easy, just unscrew the end, pop the old one out and put the new one in, no problem. I changed my 95's last year and it was a 10 minute job. Anyone remember if it's on the right side of the car or left? Somewhere in the area of the rear tires, you can't miss it, just follow the fuel lines along the side of the car.

    Most likely, if you run into a problem, it'll be rusty and hard to disconnect the old filter. Seems like I have bad luck with that kind of stuff myself. ..must be those Michigan winters :)
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I brought the 17" wheels for the Y2K Aurora for my Classic. The 17" tires will be Michelins. The 16" tires are Yoko's and they suck in the snow.

    Here is the issue: I want to use the 16" in the winter to protect the 17" wheels from the snow and salt (especially after the postings I read).

    As a result I will have the good tires on the summer wheels.

    It could only happen to me.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Posts: 82
    The fuel filter in on the left side on the inside of the frame. Approximately below the rear seat. It shouldn't be to much trouble to change, but be careful of the gasoline that will leak out.

    Good luck..
  • Yeah Henry. I have decided that next year, I'll get snow tires for the 16" wheels. I didn't want to do it this year, 'cause my old tires still had a good bit of wear left on them, but by the time next winter rolls around I'll be ready to stick a set of Blizzaks on there. We don't get hit hard by snow for more than 2 or 3 months here, but I figure as long as I have a spare set that is going to go during the winter, I might as well spring for the winter tires. My Turanzas are okay in the snow, but it'll be nice to have a set of dedicated wheels and tires for this time of year.
  • mrdubyamrdubya Posts: 200
    well, got some really good news to tell.

    first, i guess i had a tank of REALLY bad gas, because the problem went away after a fill up, never thought gas could be that bad, the car drove horrible for that week. i got a fuel filter anyways, only $10

    second when i brought my car to aamco for a oil change (-18 this week!) they must have oiled up the balljoints or somthing, because my popping noise is gone (99% sure it is, used to be pretty bad, haven't heard it once yet).

    third, found the area of the coolant leak, comming from the radiator, looks like a connector. for now ill keep filling up the coolant, worry about it when it warms up, its a slow leak anyway.

    and last, but definatly not single again -wipes brow- thankfully.

  • I meant I had to hold it and let it crank for like 5 seconds. Sometimes it would take a couple tries.

    If its cold where you are the REV down might be effected by that.
  • Bought a 2k1 3.5 in December with a build date of 01/00. According to Carfax, this car originally had a 4 year/48000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.
    It says I still had 10 months or 36000 left on it since the car only had 12000 miles on it when I bought it. Can Carfax be trusted or should I call GM to verify? Thanks
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    4/48,000 was the warranty on the '95-99 Auroras. The 2001 had a 3/36,000 when it first came out, and then it was extended to 5/60,000 when GM announced it was phasing out Olds. This didn't happen until 12/00, so it is unlikely that your car had the extended warranty. Only if it sat on a lot for almost a full year before being sold (as it is the sale date that determines the extended warranty, not the build date).

    Did you buy your car as a Certified Used Car? If so, it should have a 3 month, 3,000 mile warranty from the date/mileage you purchased it at.
Sign In or Register to comment.