Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

17576788081147

Comments

  • gudgegudge Posts: 9
    In an earlier post I wrote that my 97 Aurora's voltage fluctuated between 12.5 & 14.5 volts and that the tachometer opperated erratically. I fixed the problem by going to alldatadiy.com and printing out the grounding points for the car. I just tightened all of the grounding points and the problem is gone.
  • gudgegudge Posts: 9
    In an earlier post I wrote that my 97 Aurora's voltage fluctuated between 12.5 & 14.5 volts and that the tachometer opperated erratically. I fixed the problem by going to alldatadiy.com and printing out the grounding points for the car. I just tightened all of the grounding points and the problem is gone.
  • I have just corrected , after 2 years, the same overheating problem.I have been to dealers and have been assured that the dual fans handle the situation. I am an avid GM customer and know that 240+ is too much. I found a small water pump gasket leak and replaced the water pump and found that the radiator top (plastic) was burst. I replace the radiator and am now enjoying the pleasure of 210 degrees anyway shape or form of driving. Dealers don't want to work on Auroras.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I LOVE THE NAME!!!
  • I own a '95 Aurora. Where is the starter solenoid located? I hoping to God that it is not inside of the engine block. I bought a new one because the blower stays on after I turn off the engine. The diagram on alldatadiy.com is confusing, but the guys at Napa told me that it would real easy to replace. Well, I ain't going to get very far if I can't identify the location under the hood. I hope that someone can help me.
  • Not exactly inside the engine block, but close. The solenoid is mounted directly to the starter, which resides in the valley between the two banks of cylinders. AFAIK, the intake manifold must be removed for access.

     

    What puzzles me is what does the starter solenoid have to do with "blower stays on after I turn off the engine"? Is it the HVAC blower or the radiator cooling fan(s)? Either way, indicting the starter solenoid is a stretch.

     

    Les
  • We just started having the same problem last week on a '96. Sometimes it will start right up, sometimes just a click. It won't start right up when you jump unless the OTHER vehicle is 'revving up'... then it starts right up. Our battery indicator shows we're charging at 15.7 volts (which is really what the alternator is charging) and we were told by a parts mgr that the battery was fried if it's charging that much. $120 to replace and it did the same thing the next night. Had to jump (revving the engine on the other vehicle). My clerk's boyfriend works service at the local dealership here. Asked him to see what he could find out and we'll pay him to fix (instead of the dealer). I'll let you know what we find out.
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Posts: 98
    Does anybody else's 2001+ Aurora's dashboard squeak and rattle horribly? Mostly coming from dash in front of driver close to the windshield. Really starting to get annoying. My 97 has ZERO rattles and squeaks.
  • Help! I have a 2002 Aurora (3.5 liter) with 49,000 miles on it. The engine light came on & I took in for service. I was told that check valves failed and allowed water into the air pump, freezing the air pump motor. Cost: $863.35 ($662.05 for parts, $201.30 for labor).

     

    Do I need to replace these items? What happens if I don't? Can I replace these items myself? The car is running fine.

     

    Needless to say, I'm not happy at the prospect of spending this much money on a problem I wouldn't even know about if it weren't for the engine light.

     

    Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
  • I am the original owner of a 1998 classic with autobahn, with 144,000 miles.

     

    Aurora has developed a shimmy or body roll at 50mph + on rough pavement. New struts in front and newer rear shocks.

     

    What other suspension parts could be failing to result in this unsettling motion? Thanks
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    What are the tires like? Brand, mileage, condition? Had them road-force balanced?

     

    Are the air shocks in the rear still working, or disconnected?

     

    --Robert
  • sdasda Posts: 308
    I would check with your local GM dealer. I think the air pump is covered by the extended emissions warranty, and perhaps the remainder the the 60K warranty (if you opted for it).
  • sdasda Posts: 308
    My 01 4.0 just turned 70000 miles. Just put new ceramic brake pads front and rear. Since I bought the car used, I have no idea if I was replacing the originals. But the service center thought they were, with 10% left up front and 40% still remaining in the rear. Not bad. They suggested changing front and rear at same time with same type pads. Had the brake fluid flushed, too. Car drives great, and I continue to get compliments on it from friends who are from import only mind set. I have noticed as the temperatures drop into the 40s and below, my car gets a squeak that seems to be coming from the center console--sounds like it is in the area of the shifter. Over rough pavement and expansion strips it sounds like a constant tapping noise with an occasional chirp. I have removed everything in the center console, glove box and center arm rest,etc. but can't find the squeak. Any ideas? Something odd: some of the backlighting around some controls work and don't work. When I bought the car, the light at the shifter did not light, the top steering wheel (redundant radio and climate control buttons) controls don't light, but the bottom buttons do, part of the climate control backlighting was dim (fan control), and heated seat buttons were lit unevenly. In meantime, part of speedometer light (40-80mph range burned out), yet everything works! Then--the shifter light on the console started working again (for over 6 weeks now), and the speedometer back light is full aglow again as well as the fan control. Incredible. All buttons/switches are operative. Did GM get Lucas UK to do the electrics??
  • I didn't take the 60,000 mile warranty. I'm a cheap SOB. Dealer did agree to fix the car for a $100 deductible and he would submit it under warranty claims.

     

    I'm not sure how that works, but for a $100, I'm not asking.

     

    FYI - I think it pays to throw a fit and mention that your next new vehicle will be a Lexus.
  • sdasda Posts: 308
    Sorry i didn't spell your e-mail name correctly. I typed it in. Ah, the advantages of cut and paste. Glad to hear the dealer helped you. I am surprised it wasn't covered at no charge under the emissions warranty. I haven't looked at the warranty book, but I am surprised. Perhaps call GM, and inquire? Anyhow, hope you are enjoying your Aurora.
  • dog4dog4 Posts: 1
    I've got a 95 with 130000. No real problems until the other morning with starting, the engine revs to 4500 rpm and fluctuates between 4000 and 4500 rpm. Shut down and same problem recurs. Any suggestions?
  • robert, the tires are fine. i will have the rear shocks checked but they only have about 50,000 miles on them. thanks
  • emt967emt967 Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 1995 rora and the temp is to hi about 220 I have no leak's, antifreeze is full, the fan are working but not on hi speed. HELP.

       T/you. Will
  • That is normal operating temp for the Aurora. They run hotter than most cars. Its perfectly normal.
  • All the sudden when I open my drivers door (95) the interior light doesnt come on and the radio does not turn off. I went to look for the button that is on the door jam of most cars , but I did not see one on the Aurora.

     

    If anyone knows what the contact is on the Aurora i would appreciate it. Im hoping its just a stuck lever or something because all the other doors will activate the light and turn off the radio if I open them. Just not the drivers door.

     

    __________________
  • kaya,

     

    I believe they are in part of the door latch itself. Should be a black plastic piece where the latch bar (on the body) goes into the door on the door. Hoped that helped. I know when I work on the inside of mine, I "fake" close the driver's door by rotating the piece on the door latch.

     

    LMK
  • HEY I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. I HAVE A 01 4.0. THE SQUEAK SEAMS TO BE COMING FROM THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE DASH, AROUND THE AIR VENT. IT DRIVES ME NUTS. I HAVE REPLACED SO MUCH ON THIS CAR...IT IS CRAZY. A NEW RADIO, BECAUSE THE BUTTONS WERE SCRATCHED, THE ASHTRAY DOOR, DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT WOULD NOT STAY CLOSED. I ALSO REPLACED THE DRIVER INFO. SYSTEM. ONE OF THE BUTTONS WOULD NOT ILLUMINATE, AS WELL AS BOTH BOTTOM STEERING WHEEL CONTROL BUTTONS FOR THE AIR BLOWER SPEED AND RADIO FUNCTIONS. BOTH OF THESE BUTTONS WOULD NOT ILLUMINATE. I WORK AT A GM DEALERSHIP AND LOVE THE CAR. I JUST THINK GM THREW SO MUCH TECHNOLOGY AT THIS CAR WITHOUT A-LOT OF LONG TERM TESTING. MY ODOMETER DISPLAY FOR THE MILES IS A LITTLE GARBLED. THE CAR IS STILL UNDER WARRANTY, SO IT DOES NOT COST ME A THING. DO YOU HAVE ANY OF THESE SYMPTOMS? LET ME KNOW
  • No, the only real problem I have is the rattle coming from the left side of the dashboard by the windshield.
  • Were you able to repair the steering wheel lites? I have the same problem...
  • Thanks shroom. I knew someone would know. I didnt want to go rotating things around and brake something that I shouldnt.

     

    Thanks
  • YES..IT WAS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. BOTH BUTTONS HAVE TO BE REPLACED. IT IS ONE UNIT.
  • My cabin rearview mirror has lost its mind. I've always left the auto-dim function on. (The 95's have a simple, auto-dim only mirror w/an on/off switch) Recently, if left on during the day, it turns on full dim power and turns deep blue, if turned off, it goes back to a regular mirror. Then on my drive back to school, at the top of the mirror headed down in a bubble type shape, it started turning yellow, (like the yellow headlights on the GT cars at Rolex) and wouldn't turn back after I turned it off. Sat overnight and is now back to a regular mirror. Haven't driven at night yet to see if the auto-dim still worked. Any ideas?

     

    My Mom's 01 Suby driver's side auto-dim mirror apparently leaked it guts out and now looks horrible and is barely useable. But mine still functions as a mirror. Maybe there's a difference between one for outside and one for inside and the obvious model year diff?

     

    Lastly, would I be able to install a newer mirror into my 95? I already successfully installed homelink into my 95 and was wondering if it would be a direct plug and play or not. Looking at like a 97-99 Aurora mirror with a compass is my question. An On-Star mirror wouldn't work. Also what about another GM mirror with compass and temp on the mirror would that worK?
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    My mother-in-law used to have a '95 (before she got her '98 - sold it for a Blazer, but missed the Aurora so bad she had to get another). When she transferred from the Orion factory here to Wisconsin, one of her co-workers put a '98 mirror in her '95 as a going-away present (although I don't know the answer to the question of whether he ordered the part or if it was a "freebie" :-). So, it should be possible, though you may have to install or route cabling for a temperature sensor...

     

    I see a lot of Gentex mirrors on eBay (am going to try to pick one up for my GTO, which is sorely missing autodim/compass/outside temp - just has a basic $1.98 mirror on it)...

     

    --Robert
  • dred98dred98 Posts: 16
    Why the temp sensor? I thought the outside temp sensor was under the front bumper.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    The '95 mirror was different from the rest of the years... I don't know if it came with the temp. sensor. If it didn't, you'd need to install one somewhere, is all I'm saying...

     

    --Robert
Sign In or Register to comment.