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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • I remember reading a while back in this forum about a common problem with the rear window defroster staying on. Just my two cents.
  • acurryacurry Posts: 27
    nothing easy to fix and yes it does cost alot of money to repair my speedometer has stopped working which the dealer told me to same thing need an new computer also which is high had to replace the alternator but had no promblems with draining the batt.
  • Thanks guy? Where will I get the parts?
  • I am having the same issue with my 1998, needs to be jumped every day. I have replaced the battery less than a month ago and same issue again, do I need to check the alternator and replace? Can I do this or do I need to take to a garage?
  • I need to flush my radiator on my 1999 catera... I saw a red knob valve looking item at the bottom of the radiator but not sure if that is the drain valve... I am use to older vehicles with drain cock valves.. anyone know actual location... thanks
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    The coolant drain valve is located on the radiator, at the bottom of the left end tank (driver's side), facing rearward. The valve is accessible from under the vehicle. Hope this helps you.
  • Thanks a lot for the reply back.. I saw a red knob valve looking that had a small hollow tube attached facing the front of the car just aft of the bumper... I assume this is what your talking about... I am an old guy and use to the older cars that had the p-cock style valve opener.. I just didn't want to turn the red valve and screw something up.. thanks
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    Actually, I have a '98 Catera and the valve is facing rearward and I didn't think it would be different on the '99. However, what you see facing forward probably is the drain valve for your car. I'd just watch when you open it and be sure that it is radiator fluid (anti-freeze) coming out and not transmission fluid and/or engine oil which sometimes cools by running thru the radiator. Good luck.
  • Thanks again.. I couldn't get pliers on it enough to turn anyway... like you said... it could be to something else... guess I will just take it in to a mechanic that has a lift to put it in the air.... its a shame that cars today are made so people like me can't fix them and are forced to pay out $ for a simple job... again thanks
  • I have a 1997 catera and i am down to connecting the hoses back together and i have one hose that i do not know where it goes and i was wondering if any one had a picture of the engine that they can send me so i can look at it. my email address is myhouse401@aol.com
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    I have a '98. I'll send you all the pigs you need. What kind of hose are you talking about? Which area of the engine?
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    Sorry 'bout that. Typing on iPhone is tough. I've got pictures - not pigs!!!! LOL
  • I found a place that has some control modules at a reduced price. They don't carry all control modules for all vehicles, but I've great success with them. They also come recommended by the hosts of the radio program Car-Talk, "Click & Clack, the Tappet Bros.," The problems I had were quoted as requiring ever increasing costs by the dealership, $1,800, $2,200 & $3,400, depending on whether one worked or not. That would have been a total of $7,400 if I needed all three services. I got it done for about $850, Parts & Labor, ordering the part myself from:
    :D
    ModuleMaster or Circuit Solutions
    2006 S Main
    Moscow, ID 83843
    (208) 892-0764 or Toll free 1-888-892-0764
    www.MODULEMASTER.net
  • Hi, I have had my 2000 catera for about 2 years. At first the car drove great, but not long after things started to not feel right, smelled smoke but no one could find anything wrong. Then by the time the problem was found it was the valve cover gaskets ($600) for gaskets (the main part was labor), car still had issues oil pressure gauge dropping, check engine light came on, mechanic replaced oil & filters said that may be the problem ($56.00) still same problem, now car died on highway, waited 30 minutes started up drove 1/4 mile & died again, let it sit for 2 hours & was able to get it 6 miles back into town before it died. Ended up towing it home with our RELIABLE FORD F-250, let it sit for 1 day starts fine, but scared to drive, and definitly scared to take it to a mechanic (more money spent on a car that is now now even worth $3800.00 kelly blue book). Hoping someone may know where the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR IS LOCATED, AND OIL PRESSURE SENSOR. Would like to get it running long enough to trade in on something more reliable. Thanks :(
  • Dont wast your money, I have found this car is more problems than what it is worth which having it for 2 years it is worth less than what I owe (paid $8900.00, today it is worth $3500.00).
  • cranks sensor is a easy fix part available at auto zone 60 bucks pic available on this site 30 min job changed cam gaskets myself 3 hrs 100 bucks step by stp on this site good luck
  • what hoses if your talking about vac line at back of intake one does not conect it is a trans vent ment to be open pic avail on this sight
  • mass air flow sensor
  • i am experiancing almost all the same problems is there anything anyone knows about the electrical. my problems are the driver side blinker sometimes working dome lights only work when the cars off, and the cd player staying on after the car is off also what causes these problems?
  • acurryacurry Posts: 27
    to which message is #476 of 477 retaining to about the mass air flow sensor is it the electical and lights in and out
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