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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair



  • ok u guys never answerd me so here i go u see my caddi has a lil part i need the name asap no1 seems to help its in the back top behind the block hard to reach you have to take the wipers off to reach it so look its small and a pain in the behind and i need the help ok! so hurry it up! if i don't get this car running soon or moved im going to be in a pile of dung ok so :mad: HURRY :mad:
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    There is a sensor wire to the brakes. So you may have to pay about $100 (don't remember if that was for each) for the brake dash light to go off. The pads didn't have squeelers. I just let it brake dash light continue, since I'm not too concern with the rotor. I put life time pads on and they are eating away at the rotor, which I plan to replace the next time I replace the pads.

    The other lights I have no knowledge of. Good luck!
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    Hey Lee, that looks like a BAMA number. Go TIDE. Just love Tuscalossa. Rated #3 for hot lookin
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    If you can keep an eye on your brake pads (check them when you rotate your tires or maybe every 5K miles) and really don't need the dash warning light, you can put a small jumper wire connecting the two terminals where the sensor switch plugs in on the inside of the wheel and this will make your dash light go out. The system works on a closed loop and when your pads wear out, the sensor wears down and breaks the loop causing the dash warning light to come on. Basically, you are eliminating the warning devices which are only available at a Caddy dealer and definitely aren't cheap..
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    Regarding the brake light on dash, check out Post #648
  • mazeusamazeusa Posts: 5
    Hey Guys, I have a 1999 Catera which I just had a dealer brand new keyless remote programmed for, the old one was working but I got the new one thinking it will fix the problem.... The problem is it works with very limited range, now both old and new one work same way, I mean I have to be within 4 feet from the car to make either remote work, the dealer who programmed both for me said this is how they work, batteries are new and replaced anyway to make sure... Any idea why they have that limited range? is there an antenna somewhere in the care that might need fixing or something? please help.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    Thanks, I'll try that.
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    The remote for a Catera has a ridiculous operating range. It is very "normal" to have to be within 4 or 5 feet of the car for it to function properly. I have a Chevrolet pick-up truck that the remote works on 50 yards away but not our Catera. New batteries will not make it work at a greater range and there is not an atenna that needs to be worked on. It is just one of the things you have to live with if you have a Catera. Sorry, wish I could give you some better news.
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    Hey dude had the same problem so i called my friend hans in germany and he told to get this kit from brembo comes with vented rotors front and rear brake hoses pads mounting brakets for calipers front and rear it took me only a half of day and 2600 but was worth it best brakes to put on an M V 6 :D
  • Hello my fellow 1998 Caterians lol. i'm having problem after problem after problem. I need help finding some possible solutions. First off, i'm having what I think are transmission problems. i cant make it to autozone to get the codes checked b/c it drives HORRIBLE. Last year I had my the transmission re-built. After about a month it went down and the solution was actually replacing the TCM (transmission control module). When the module went bad, the shifting lights wouldnt come on and it was the cause.NOW, I can disconnect the module but the lights are not affected BUT the car still drives horrible. Coming to a stop is dreadful b/c it takes probably a minute to finally pull off and gain speed. I noticed something very interesting today. Since i have an oil leak my car has been leaking oil badly for a very long time. About a month ago i put oil in my car b/c it was tapping. that cleared the problem BUT my car hasnt been leaking oil. I checked my fluid today and it still measures "Max". Usually thats a good thing b/c no one like an oil leak but thats unusual to me that my car is NOT leaking oil.

    #2. I dont know if its my battery or alternator but as the car is still/in park my battery sometimes loses power but as i'm driving its like its recharging b/c the meter goes back up. When I turn the car off, it has to sit about an hour or so to start up. I replaced the battery yesterday but i havent been in it enough to test it.

    #3 the place i took the car to claimed to have done a tune-up but my car still shakes like it did before the tune-up. When I come to a stop it shakes. When i drive it shakes.

    Can someone please help me?! any help would be tremendously appreciated.
  • easyselleasysell Posts: 4
    I just bought a 97 Caterra today. Test drove about 15 miles and seemed to run real well. Purchased it and on way home it didn't want to accelerate from a stop sign. Pulled over shut it off. Restarted and accelerated ok but sluggish compared to test drive. Then I noticed the volt gauge was only 1 or 2 slashes over red zone. Later battery died and had to be jumped. The prior owner left all his maint receipts in glove box. There were many. He did lots of maintenance and repairs. He had alternator and battery replaced about 10k ago. There is also a light on dash on left side that looks like a gear ring with a star in the center. I don't have an owners manual so I was wondering what it is. He also replaced timing belt and pulleys as well as water pump and had trans rebuilt. I assume the rebuilt alternator has failed again. Would this cause the very sluggish acceleration? Reading all these post has me very worried. Is this car as high maintenance as all these postings suggest?
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    You might try premium fuel, the best premium. Then there is the so called rebuilt alternators, which are just cleaned and brushes replaced. Try a new factory alternator. They run a little higher, but function to spec. I can obtain one here in Dallas for a bit over $200. Dealers want much more. Also be sure that the sun roof is not draining the battery. Many of the first Cateras had this issue, which was correct in later models. Then the light on the dash may just be the sports mode and pressing the buttom on the top of the transmission shifter (S for sports mode)should make it go away.
    Good luck
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    Sounds like your car is knocking. Try the best premium gas you can. An octane booster may help out. Then take two asprins and see if you have other problems in the morning. It sounds like you have more than one problem.
    Good luck
  • My advice would be to take it back. The problems only go away for a short time and then return for a longer visit.

    I have the same voltage problem. I'll drive for a while and the car wont start up. Then I'll notice te voltage reading low when I'm parked or at a red light. The gauge will go back up once I start driving....but back down again once i'm sitting still. One day my car wouldnt crank so we had someone to TRY to jump the battery off. the battery didnt take a charge. We treid for about 20 minutes and realized that ANOTHER problem is the neutral switch.

    The funny thing is this is probably the 4th time ive been wanting to trade this car in, it goes down. Then we (parents) have to scuffle for a way to put money into the car to get it running. Once its running, we never seem to have the money at the right time to trade the car in and get a new one. EVERYTIMe its the same thing. its like the car reads our minds and says "Oh no you wont get rid of me" lol. Never fails
  • lol, I dont think tyhe asprins will help lol.

    About 3 months ago, I was veeeery low on gas so I went to a little off-brand gas was seriously the only one I could make it to. The car had been a little shaky so I figured it was b/c i was low on gas. After I got the gas, the car got worse and my dad told me i needed a tune-up....because the car was shaking and skipping. I also had to fix the coolant leak. i got the leak and the tune-up at the same time but the car got worse. While trying to drive it from the service shop, the car wouldnt stay on when I took my feet off the gas. I think that was b/c it was a vaccum tube left off. It was throwing out white smoke from the exhaust. Every problem has been since then. From the neutral switch to the battery to the transmission.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    You are aware that there is a voltage regulator. GM commonly puts them in the alternator. They allow the battery to recharge, and then turn off the current so that the battery won't over-charge. That could be what your looking at. The energizing of the voltage regulator. Or you may have a alternator which is only producing current at higher RPM as when your driving.
    Get "Pimp My Ride" to hook you up!!!
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    I think thats what they call problematic. Just how many miles does that 98 have?
  • dean125dean125 Posts: 1
    I'am a ASE cert mechanic and have a no start problem, I recently replaced the head gskts in both heads,timing belt and air intake temp sensor, it has been to 2 large GM/caddy dealers and they pulled the heads back off and reassembled (at owners expense and request) retimed the motor and they can not find the problem either.
    It cranks like it is out of time it also has no signal coming out of the pcm for the AIT sensor. Has anybody had any such problems? It rolled in my shop running fine with only a water leak on the right head.ANY help would be greatly appreciated
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    Hey don't panic 1. get an crank sensor or as it's called cps 2. The tune up is an good tune up all they did was change the plugs maybe wires. Test the coils also or get them tested.
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    :) Put a new CPS in it that will do it
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