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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • bm4ebm4e Posts: 8
    i feel the same way i like it alot but, whats next? I think i will just start replaceing piece by piece. Seems like every day there is something else wrong now my windows dont go up or down automaticaly im thinking it is my pcm or ecm. Have u changed your timeing belt if so how did u hold your cams in place?
  • country2country2 Posts: 26
    i wouldn't think it was you pcm for just the windows. did aldata give you that ideal. if it is just your windows i would check fuses and the window switches. no i haven't had any problem with my timeing belt and yes i am over 70,000 miles and that is suppose to be when you change them but i looked at mine and it looks ok and the other thing was that the belt tensioner goes bad and breaks the belt. it also looks ok. that is about all i know about that problem but i have replaced my intake gaskets to stop the oil leak without any problem and had a fuse go bad that made my radio only work when the car was off. i fixed my brake warning light and my low coolant light by just bypassing them. i can check my coolant and brakes myself with out some light. if aldata doesn't tell you about the belt i can try to look it up.
  • Started my 2001 deville this morning fine, noticed my A/C clutch was not kicking in and getting to cool air. I then started checking for blown fuses and all checked okay. I then went to start the car and the car would not start, my headlights would not go on and my instrument panel would not light up. Power windows, seats, and radio were fine, all I would hear is a slight clicking from the fuse box under my rear seat. I then decided to disconnect my battery and connect it again, I turned the key to on position my headlights came on my instrument panel came back on but was indicated no level on fuel gage, no level on temp gage and some dashes in various areas, and my gear position in (D), car still now starting. Any advice?
    Thanks :confuse:
  • country2country2 Posts: 26
    if there are no problems with the way the car is running. if it is not missing or running bad and the light is on then it is an emission problem and it just means that you car is putting off bad emissions. if the car is running ok then don't panic. you can drive it while your thinking this out or you get money to work on it. the light might go out itself. it might have been bad gas or the feul cap. if the car runs ok, then don't worry about the light right now.
  • orlynorlyn Posts: 4
    Its right under the steering column. Take the piece your knees hit against out, there are two bigged headed slot screws at the bottom edge, pull out the bottom a bit and pull it down about 1/2 inch to release the top edge from two pins which fit in slots. The relays for lights, horn, etc., are on the right, fuses on the left. Display of whats - what is on back of piece you removed.
  • country2country2 Posts: 26
    i don't think there is a fuse box under your back seat. if you heard a clicking it might have been your sun screen for the back glass or your rear window defroster. both are in a habit of staying on and causing trouble and draining your battery while your are not in the car. maybe your ac wasn't coming on because there wasn't enough freon in it to let the compressor start. leaked off during winter, might not work below 60 degrees. i would start off by checking to see if i had power to the starter and if the battery was fully chargered. did you check the fuses under the hood and under the driver side dash. i would take the fuse that runs the sun screen and back defroster out if i could. your temp gauge wouldn't move unless the car was warm.maybe your gear sensor is out not letting your car start. put the car in neutral and try it if it won't start in park. did the start try to turn or no starter operation at all. you could set the parking brake and block the wheels and then with a screw driver jump the small and large post on the starter and see if it starts.
    if it does then i would suppect the gear sensor. hope i said something that helps.
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    Whew thanks man I thought that maybe it was the one under the Bonnet (Hood) Cost is like 140.00 I guest :confuse: ? anyway thanks brother ;)
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    We all need to admit it we bought it used NOT NEW the re calls and other issue are not going away we complain BUT WE LOVE THE DAMNED CAR so we might as well start the Fix up process and Quit bull$$$ting We love the car :P Accept the unending saga of the Catera And to all you guys that drive Civics.........YOU GO GIRL
  • hey i have a 1997 catera and the brake and radiator lights come on for about 10 minutes then go out and my temp gauge dosnt work at all but the car runs fine and i check all the fluids everyday. does anybody have this problem with dash board lights? :confuse:
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    IN regards to your radiator light coming on more than likely it is the resivor sensor thats bad. As far as your temp gauge it's real tuff to get to but if you have the time it the temp sensor should be located on the left side of the engine heads at the rear check for disconnection and broken wires thats pretty much all I can tell you for now good luck and to all you guys that drive civics ...........YOU GO GIRL ;)
  • country2country2 Posts: 26
    That is what I think is wrong too and the brake light your are talking about, is it the circle with lines on both sides. If it is, that just tells you your brake pads need replaceing and if your brake pads are good then you must have a bad wire or sensor. Since they come on then go off, it must be a wire or sensor.
  • bm4ebm4e Posts: 8
    There is a vacum on the hose that goes from the smogg pump to the manifold can anyone tell what the name of it is so i can get a new one. It is located on driver side by the radiator & battery.
  • jak6jak6 Posts: 3
    bad miss have chase it down to I cyc no spark .could you get me started on how to change spark plug wires is there a cap ? do I have to pull the top of engine to get to it
    Thank for any help you can give me Jak62
  • hey thanks alot i think that solved the problem.
  • Do anybody out there know if the air shocks on the back of a 97 catera can be changed with normal gas charged ones?
  • This is what my 2000 Catera is doing, and i've talked to alot of Cadillac specialists and they say it's the Transmission Control Module. Reason being, is because my transmission won't kick in to a higher gear while these lights are one... It shifts just fine, but for instance if you floor it, it won't kick up, it strips... Mechanic and Cadilla dealer say because of that, it's the TCM...

    Anyone else experiencing the tranny shift problem while these lights are on?

    Jason
  • bm4ebm4e Posts: 8
    jak6 there is no cap, there is a coil behind the engine on drivers side. you do not have to pull the top of the motor. on the drivers side there is case that holds vacum lines & wires unbolt that & you can get to the spark plugs on that side. pull your wires & start removeing plugs. you need to know the fireing order on motor & coil. Sence i have a 98 catera i know it. on the motor driver side starting from the front is 2,4,6 passenger side is 1,3,5. Now on the coil starting the front row from drivers side to passenger side is 4,6,2 the back row is 1,3,5. What cylinder is not fireing i just had the same prob with mine & it was cylinders 2,& 6. If you have any other ? I can help.
  • franco55franco55 Posts: 1
    Can anybody tell me the location of the coil and distributor in my 1997 catera?
  • ssklsskl Posts: 45
    Coil is buried between firewall and center of back of engine. Distribution of firing plugs sequence is computer controlled, no distributor like older model cars..
    Dave
  • jak6jak6 Posts: 3
    Could the computer be missed programed to not fire on one plug or is coil bad thank for any help
  • ssklsskl Posts: 45
    I've got the same problem, I've done a spark test on that cyl. and it's firing. Note: two plugs fire at the same time on every stroke according to the factory manual.
    I had a service station check fuel injectors which were OK, A mistake to take everything off to take it in to the station for a check. I now have no compression on #4 cyl. Which tells me I've either got a burnt valve, stuck lifter, or stuck valve which would hit the piston being stuck open.
    Best to pay the $90+ for analyzation by a pro. These cars are setup so analyzing tells it all. You could check wires and plug yourself first.
    Dave
  • jak6jak6 Posts: 3
    Thanks Dave I have No fire one plug Will try to check plug wire but cant get to end behind engine just had it in a shop they check computer say it was bad (ecm) I bought one (130.00) than they said it was now good so I now have a second ECM it was running fine just got worst ( money pit ) if i get it going I will Post thanks for any help
  • ssklsskl Posts: 45
    There are some really sharp mechanics on this forum. If you go thru the previous discussions you might find more clues. You can search for (ECM) for instance.
    It seems that I saw something before about the ECM shutting off a cyl and also if some other sensor is defective it will gradually affect runability. For instance the crank and cam sensors are known to go bad, especially crank. So you could search for (crank sensor) and it will tell you how to change it. These are Opel engines and most mechanics don't know their quirks. They are a superb car once you iron out the bugs. Some were used as police cars in Germany.
    Dave
  • luggie34luggie34 Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Cadillac Catera and my rear brake lights will not shut off when I turn off the car. It's drains my battery dead.
  • ssklsskl Posts: 45
    Search forums for expert advice.
    I would think it's a pressure switch in brake system, older cars had this prob. occasionally and either it would be air in the line causing pressure or the pedal switch under the dash not releasing switch button by being out of adjustment.
    But with this highly sophisticated brake system I wouldn't bet on those issues being the answer.
    Dave
  • rboldingrbolding Posts: 1
    MY 1999 CATERA WILL START, BUT WILL NOT ACCELERRATE. The car acts as if the gas pedal cable is not connected, however, I understand there is none. My mechanic said that I either need a new main computer or an accelerator sensor, but he is not sure. he said it would cost to much for him to just guess and the cadillac dealer is not any help, beause they say they don't know what is wrong even when he gives them the codes. They obviously want him to have to send the car to them.

    at any rate, i was just wondering if anyone can help. Maybe it is the main computer, but I would like to know before I buy one. The car starts fine but just doesn't move, as if it is not getting any gas. I don't hear any indication that the engine is getting gas no matter how far I press the gas pedal.
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    If you have any of the codes I can tell you what they mean. Of course that doesn't necessarily mean it's going to be an easy fix... :)
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    Hi guys On an 1999 catera sport how do you adjust the rear piston I can't use my regular tool to adjust them the tool will not fit and I cant compress them what do I do :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    Nevermind Frozen Piston :(
  • i bought a pair at the local autozone for $30 bucks
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