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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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  • ledc101ledc101 Posts: 10
    so is that what you do whn the U2108 code is one because on my 2000 cadillac catera has the ABS,TC CHECK ENGINE, and my speedometeor, and my coolant light is on and i dont know what to doo.... i got it checkd for the codes and it says U2108 so how do i solve it i need help plzzz thank???
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    Any "U" code means there is a communication problem. This is the ability of all the modules of the vehicle to communicate with each other. Any time you get a "U" code stored, it is necessary to connect a scan tool capable of looking at every module on the vehicle to determine where the problem is. If you don't have a capable scan tool, I would suggest a top notch repair facility or even your Cadillac dealership. Actually, once you diagnose the cause of the "U" code, there is a good chance it may clear up all your other problems. Good luck.
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    I'm not really exactly sure what you're saying. When you say "cps", I assume you're referring to the Crankshaft Position Sensor which is actually called a "CKP", right? When and if you installed a new CKP, are you sure the wiring is snug and tight with no breaks in the wiring and generally it is better to reroute the harness and not put it back the same way as the factory installation. When I say reroute it, the main thing is to be sure that it doesn't come into contact with any of the exhaust manifold. If no signal is getting to the CKP, it doesn't know that the engine is cranking and will not kick in the fuel pump which would mean no fuel. Also, have you changed out the in-line fuel filter? Might try that next.
  • phil2400phil2400 Posts: 29
    This code (U2108) is a communications error with the ABS module. This goes hand-in-hand with the TC and ABS lights and code P0500. The VSS is wired to the ABS first, then carries over to the ECU and speedometer. I found this out the hard way with a buddy's Catera. When the ABS module has communications errors, the speedometer loses signal from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

    There is hope. We called www.bba-reman.com, and they were able to fix the ABS controller. This is the black plastic box on the ABS module mounted down on the car's frame rail on the driver's side. They have DIY instructions on their website to remove the controller without removing the valve assembly and motor. This means you don't need to remove any brake lines or crack any of the lines open. Mail off the controller, and they rebuild it, test it, and warranty the work for a year, and send it back. According to them, you can still drive the car without the module. They charged us $169, which included return postage. This fixed the ABS, TC and CEL lights.

    For the coolant light, check the coolant level in the reservoir. If it is fine, then the sensor may be bad. It is mounted to the bottom of the reservoir.
  • calicagocalicago Posts: 53
    Yes Yes and YES new fuel filter new relays Have not Performed the other test yet being the service manual is very vauge on details and pics :confuse: :mad: :mad: :sick: Before I replace a shut off vavle or pressure swich I will finish the testing Just thought you where more incline with the fuel system
  • ledc101ledc101 Posts: 10
    thanks aloot i apppreciate it aloot so thankk u veryy muchhh
  • dgawdgaw Posts: 6
    i need to know what codes po432 &po422 mean check eng light on and coolant light on but full what can problem be car runs fine to me so if anybody can help please and thank you
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    The 400 series codes means that your O2 sensor is sending a message of a bad converter or maybe the O2 sensor is bad. This could be a number of things and could be ruining your converter if not addressed.

    The most common cause is contamination of the catalyst because the engine is burning oil or leaking coolant internally (leaky head gasket or a crack in a combustion chamber or cylinder). Converters can also be damaged if they overheat due to ignition misfiring that allows unburned fuel to pass through into the exhaust (check for a fouled spark plug or bad plug wire). The same thing can happen if the engine has a bad exhaust valve that leaks compression into the exhaust (check compression).
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    Code U2108 is a communications error between the ECM and ABS module.

    How old is the Catera? How many miles? Do you ever have the brake fluid changed?
  • acurryacurry Posts: 27
    im not sure what the codes mean. but as for the coolant light you will have to replace the whole jug it runs about 40.00 at the dealer the sensor on the bottom of it is bad thats why your light is staying on.
  • dgawdgaw Posts: 6
    IM in DALLAS TX what dealer can I get jug for 40.00 I just moved from missouri and dont know any good car shops around here or should I say cheep
  • dgawdgaw Posts: 6
    Who does the work on your catera and which o2 sensor should I change I here that its four sensors two in front and two in back so do I change all four thats sounds pretty high to fix just got car last month car has 126000 miles and I put about 5000 miles on it got car in may and drove it to dallas and so far so good
  • ironwomanironwoman Posts: 15
    I took my 2000 Catera in to replace the timing belt, since I had heard that if it breaks it can ruin the engine. Of course, they did not have the part, so it had to be ordered. 4 days later they were suppoesed to work on the car. 5 days later they started to work on the car but discovered that they do not have the correct tool. Now today, a week later, they tell me that I need also the tensioner kit, part number 9201887, for $844.85 and tensioner pulley, part number 9196294 for $169.69. ...also a brake sensor.

    I've read that the tensioner kit includes water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.
    The dealer repair person is telling me that it is so expensive becuase they have to get the part from the dealer. They looked for aftermarket parts, but could find none.
    I've looked on the internet and have seen the same part number for half that price.

    Questions: does anyone know: is that tensioner unit really all one part...and I have to replace the whole thing like they are telling me?
    What is included in that part number 9291887?
    Could damage have been done by them trying to replace the timing belt without the proper tool? (They now have the tool)
    I've already paid $100 for the timing belt.
    Thanks in advance for your wisdom.
  • I am changing the oil cooler on a 2001 Cadallic Catera I have removed everything down to the two lines on top of the oil cooler between the motor the lines need to be loosen on the bottom end in order to remove the cooler. But the oil filter is in my way is there a way to remove the cylinder that house the oil filter so i can loosen the lines. Help!!!!!!!!
  • jairekjairek Posts: 11
    Ok i have a 97 catera and it just idles very strange at a stop then sometimes when i press the gas it seems like its hesitating any suggestion ?
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    Auto Zone sells the kit and it should be under $300 total. It includes the belt, tensioner, and idlers. Labor is a different story and should be 4 to 4.5 hours.
    They can rent the tool at the link below. So what are they charging you, if its not too personal?

    http://www.ledfix. com/timingbeltto olrental. html
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    Crank position sensor, mass air flow, and converters may be the problem. How many miles?
  • jairekjairek Posts: 11
    130.000 when i drive on the highway or goin above 5 mph it seems to drive just fine does the speed limit it just like idle surges at a stop
  • ironwomanironwoman Posts: 15
    I guess what they will actually charge me is yet to be seen. They already charged me $100 for the belt, which they ordered last week. (as well as charging me mega bucks more for other parts ordered last week.) I have an extended warantee through anotherr company. I asked them to check to see if any of this would be covered. They said it would not...but then DID call the company, and found that part of it will be covered. So, I just found out that they did order the parts, and that the extended warantee will cover the cost for the parts and labor. However, they also told me that cover the rest. I asked exactly what parts would be covered. They said the tensioner and pulley. Now it looks like the water pump needs replacing, too.

    What they originally told me to replace the timing belt was $100 for the belt and $333 for the labor.
    I'll update with actual figures after the work is completed.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    Disconnect the mass air flow connection and see if that cures it. This is the cheapest route. The mass air flow is between the unit housing your air filter and the intake. Its a tube, about 3 inches in diameter, that has a wire pluged into it. Its right behind the radiator on the 2001.
  • I was driving on the freeway last night and my check engine light started blinking, I could not accelerate. Like it wanted to a tiny bit when I pressed on the gas but it just couldn't. I pulled off on an exit ramp. Looking at the Caddy my Serpintine belt is slightly shredded, but not completely off yet. All of the pullys turn when you try to crank the engine and turn in on but the car does not turn over. When the belt started to shred is there a possibility that it knocked something loose on my intake? or messed something else up? Or is there another problem? Giving it gas doesn't help, and my battery life isn't low. Does anyone have ANY suggestions on what I can check/do to figure out what is wrong with my car? :cry:
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    So you have an 01? I was beginning to think, I had the only 01.

    Blinking is the first sign of the computer warning you. About how many miles do you have on this Catera? How long ago, if ever, did you replace the crank position sensor/mass air flow? Did you leave it on the side of the road? Were you not worried about being abducted by aliens?
  • 240,000 I just bought it in May. Had it checked out multiple times and it was kept in mint shape. The engine isn't knocking at all. I did get it to start up momentarily the night I was stranded. It ran rough and the belts were whining like hell. I am not sure on the CPS sensor..but I've been scanning the threads and that seems to be the answer everyone gives to Catera owners. Oh your tire blew? Change the CPS sensor lol. And it's quite funny, I was stranded by an Airforce base and had to walk a few miles in pitch dark to get to a payphone. So YES I was lmao. Yes I left it there for the moment. It was 2am by the time someone came to rescue me.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    CPS or mass air flow. I have an extra mass air flow if you care to test it. The idler/tensioner on the serpintine belt or maybe the idler/tensioner on the timing belt. Them air force dudes should fix it for you. Are you wearing Nike Air Force 1 ???
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Posts: 1,139
    What part of Dallas???
  • dgawdgaw Posts: 6
  • 1999 Cadillac Catera 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 94,000 miles

    This car was recently serviced because of a bad crank positioning sensor and Mass Airflow sensor (check engine light came on). Replaced both and car was fine... light went out.... 2 months later coolant light came on, coolant level is fine and the car is not over heating.... 2 days after coolant light came on ALL the warning lights came on... TCS,ABS,Check Engine etc. It looks like a x-mas tree! The speedometer and odometer now work intermittently, the power steering comes and goes... Speedo working= power steering working= 1/2 the dash lights go off.... then it starts all over again. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this problem???? ECM, BCM, Can all the sensors go bad at the same time?
  • jairekjairek Posts: 11
    when i come to a stop really fast the front end shifts right and the steering has to go the other way just to keep my 97 cadillac catera from hitting something what does this would it be the tie rods cause i lifted the car up the other day and it felt like the tie rods you could move them back in forth pretty easily is that the reason ? it pulls to the right really hard
  • jairekjairek Posts: 11
    it didn't seem to work at all just made it idle worse do you think it'd mabey be the iac cause when i unplug that it doesn't even seem to do anything different
  • gngurugnguru Posts: 108
    If the tie rods are messed up you would have alot of free play in the steering wheel (assuming the tie rods aren't bent). In other words you should start up the car and see if the steering wheel moves much distance without actually turning the wheels. That is steering wheel play. It could also be caused by a brake problem or an alignment problem.
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