Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance



  • I picked up my Tundra SR5 4x2 V8 last week, Which gasoline ocatane rating is recommended?. I don't mind using Premium as long as it does not affect the engine performance

  • Toyota sais 87 octane for your truck- there is no reason to assume it needs anything but. Because the fuel injection is not mapped to use midgrade or premium, your truck will runn no differet. So, even if you dont mind paying for premium, I suggest you dont. As for 525 for a timing belt, take a moment and point to your starter. In a landcruiser they get you for $600- same motor.

    Note on my brakes- they were rock solid for the first 40k, about 6-7k of that pulling considerable unbraked trailers. Now at 47k, the brakes are due, the tires are toast, and Im looking for better shocks. Otherwise the truck's only been back to the dealer to replace a corroded trailer connector (from running w/ the lights on) and to get some touch up paint.
  • I just bought a 1998 Tacoma X-Tra Cab and it sways much more than I like. The local tire shop though it was the shocks so I had them replaced with the TRD Bilstein shocks. That helped a little, but it still sways a lot when cornering at high speeds.

    I also replaced the front sway bar bushings with an "anti-sway kit" from That helped some, but it still sways a lot.

    I'm considering replacing the springs or maybe installing a rear anti-sway bar. Does anyone have experience with this problem?

  • I was wanting to know if anybody knows anyone who has installed a TRD Supercharger on a 4.7L V8 Tundra. Any/All feedback is greatly appreciated.
  • pathy04pathy04 Posts: 27
    i will use 87 grade, i guess i avoided a costly mistake :-)
  • ucscucsc Posts: 48
    Hi everybody,

    I bought a 2004 Tundra Regular 2D long bed 2WD, and would like to buy the factory service manual to do basic and some advanced-level maintainance and repair. I called Toyota, and was told there are several manuals. Which one should I get?


  • dragdrag Posts: 1
    I bought a 2004 Tundra D cab 4X4 this summer. B F Goodrich Rugged Trail T/A P265/70R16 tires came with the truck. I am looking for recommendations for winter/snow tires. Any suggestions.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Are you sure you're concerned about "sway" and not "roll"?

    Sway is normally referred to when towing, and is affected by small turns, bumps, and the aerodynamics.

    Roll is where the body tends to "roll out" toward the outside of a turn, particularly under hard turns/high speed. Some roll is unavoidable, unless you eliminate spring suspension and ride a vehicle like an old fashioned kid's Western Flyer red wagon. It's due to the acceleration of the mass toward the center of the turn radius by the force applied at the wheels, which is below the mass. The resulting moment will load the outboard springs more heavily than the inboard, resulting in roll, and at extremes, will lift the inboard wheels off the ground (also like that little red wagon...)

    Sway is mostly a vibrational system phenomenon, which is affected by the tow vehicle mass, the towed vehicle mass, lengths of each, tow bar length, in addition to the roll stiffness of the vehicles, aerodynamics of the vehicles, and the damping between the two vehicles. Primary rotation of Sway is about a vertical axis, but the resulting turns induce roll, similar to an intentional turn. Anti-sway systems are generally an effort to dampen the system, to absorb the energy induced by a disturbance so that the natural frequencies of the system and disturbance(s) don't cause the cycle of sway to go out of control.

    This is one reason why (true) trailer tires have stiffer sidewalls than passenger tires of the same load rating. The stiffer sidewalls raise the natural frequency and assist in damping the (secondary) roll induced by the sway.

    If you're getting a lot of roll in a hard turn at high speed, you may just need to slow down in sharp turns.
  • magtxmagtx Posts: 1
    I have a 1986 Toyota 2WD pickup which has run fine since I bought it new. However, it just quit firing last week.


    The problem is that the drive gear on the shaft of the distributor has slipped down on the shaft and locked up on the floor of the compartment. It completely dis-engaged from the camshaft drive gear. The teeth of the distributor gear have been broken and will require the gear to be replaced or the distributor itself.


    I'm an old coot who has worked on cars all my life but, I have never seen this before. Does anyone know if this is a usual or unusual thing?



  • 51505150 Posts: 9
    My dad gave me his 92' 22RE 4x4 pickup w/ 155k miles. The engine looks like it needs some TLC since its dirty.

    Some questions:

    1) When should i change the distributer and plug wires?

    2) Can I switch to platinum plugs like Bosch's 4+?

    3) Do I really need to repack/grease the wheel bearings every 30k miles?

    4) Next to the brake master cylinder there's a small reservoir. Is that for the clutch fluid? When should this be changed?

    5) What else do I need to do to keep this baby running to 400k miles so I can jump and say "Oh, what a feeling?" Thanks in advance for responses.
  • tomg49tomg49 Posts: 1
    I have 85K on my 98 4 cylinder Tacoma, 2WD. Clutch pedal comes out a good ways before engaging clutch. Seems to grip OK, but I smell it occasionally. I am not a hard driver. About 20K miles are highway, rest are local.


    Is this typical clutch life?

    Can I inspect for life left without dropping the trans?

    And yes, I am quite ignorant!

    Thank you.
  • I have 85K on my 98 4 cylinder Tacoma, 2WD. Clutch pedal comes out a good ways before engaging clutch. Seems to grip OK, but I smell it occasionally. I am not a hard driver. About 20K miles are highway, rest are local.


    Is this typical clutch life?

    Can I inspect for life left without dropping the trans?



    The way one drives, the topography, whether you tow or not, and many other factors determine the life of that clutch. Even the materials the clutch is made of affect the life. But I can tell you that my son owns my old '94 Toyota Hilux and with 160,000 miles the original factory clutch is doing just fine. We live in Ozarks in MO. and we have some hills and windy roads that used to be cow paths, so the clutch hasn't had an easy life. One thing the Toyota service manager told me was that whenever you find grinding, sticking, and a hard time jamming the gearshift in reverse, then maybe it will be time to take a serious look at the clutch.


  • I have a 2000 Tacoma Prerunner that has a locking rear differential. Every now and then, the rear makes a squeaking noise, sometimes very loudly, when I take my foot off of the accelerator. It has absolutely nothing to do (as far as I can tell) with the braking system. Any ideas as to what may be causing the problem, and what I can do to fix it?
  • Hi all..


    Just took a test drive in a 2005 Tacoma. The sales guy told me the first scheduled maintenance is at 120,000 miles. Until then, it's just an oil change every 5000 mile.

    Is this true?


    Thanks for any info, jan
  • Jan,


    I just looked over the maintenance schedule for my 2005 Tacoma...


    Kinda yes and kinda no!


    We have to rotate tires every 6 months and inspect brakes every 6 months


    If you get a Tacoma with the 1GR-FE engine, the spark plugs are replaced every 3 years. (Which is surprising to me, because that's my engine!)


    The first major maintenance is replacing the timing belt at at 90,000 miles or 108 months.


    Of course, these are for normal driving...if a person drove in extreme conditions, they have more maintenance.


    Listen to all salesmen with skepticism, that's for sure!


  • Thanks Rick!


    Still looks pretty good though! Looks like most maintenance jobs should be fairly cheap...


  • I specifically asked the Toyota salesman if the Tacoma engines have timing belts or timing chains. He said, timing chains. Now I see the post which says the maintenance manual requires the changing of the timing belt at 90,000 miles. Help! Do the Tacoma engines have timing belts or timing chains? Thanks.
  • Rick:

    Please confirm that your Tacoma engine has a timing belt and not a timing chain. 4 or 6 cyl? Thanks.
  • I have the 4.0 V-6 engine.


    My manual says to replace the timing belt at 90,000 but has an footnote that says that's only for Highlander, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra, and 4Runner.


    It says replace spark plugs for Tacoma...let me look for timing belt/chain..


    The maintenance guide doesn't say anything about the Tacoma and a timing belt. (But it never says timing chaing anywhere, for any vehicle.)


    I went to and downloaded the maintenance guide which, unfortunately, is the same I have. But I could search it and, still, no mention of if the Tacoma has a chain/best OR when maintenance is due on it.


    I'd say replace the timing belt/chain at 90,000 anyway. (You don't want to have it break inside the engine....a very bad thing!)


    Rick "Boo"
  • leob1leob1 Posts: 153
    It's a Chain on the 05 4.0L. has a FAQ section and apparently has a search box for keywords. You guys made me curious since I have one. I just got off the phone with a Toyota rep who told me what I just told you.
This discussion has been closed.