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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • I have just recently syarted following this forum after trading in my Sienna for a 2004 dual cab Ltd. I noticed the other day a some water staining on the carpet near the back of the back door on the driver's side. Thought it might be from snow falling in when the door was opened but after reading the above post has wondering if this is a problem to the dual cab Tundra and what others have been doing to aleiviate the problem.
  • 1257212572 Posts: 7
    Just took home my new Tacoma ( Ink blue,4x4, DC Off road) yesterday and have the popping/knocking noise from both my front ends( more on the pass side) with small bumps on the roads. Went back to the dealer today and they spent about 3 hours troubleshooting. They were extremely nice!!!(o'Brien in Indy)They called CA and were told that Toyota is aware of this problem but have yet no solution.
    In reading all the different forums I know that it was posulated to have come from Cab attachment bolts or the suspension something. Cant find where I read this. Does anyone have a diagnosis?
    Thanks a bunch.
  • It has been four weeks since the deluge. Since then we have had rain, but the cab showed no leak. One difference curtmann is that mine is not an '05. It is an '03 Tacoma. So I wonder how far back in history this really goes?

    B
  • ks54ks54 Posts: 1
    I tried to look at the same site and still have no info for this problem. Have you or anyone else found out how to change the fog lights on Tundras to run on high beams yet???
  • HELP! Can't find the problem with my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD with 175k miles...

    Problem description:

    1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.

    2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.

    3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.

    4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.

    5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.

    6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.

    7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.

    8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.

    9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.

    10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...

    11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...

    12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!

    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

    Power loss, cuts out and acts like not getting fuel anytime over 3000rpm!!!!
    HELP! Can't find the problem with my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD with 175k miles.

    Problem description:

    1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.

    2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.

    3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.

    4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.

    5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.

    6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.

    7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.

    8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.

    9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.

    10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...

    11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...

    12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!

    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
  • I have a 04 tundra also, and have not experienced this problem nor have I heard of any other owners with this problem. I would be real suprised if you have a leak, but if so take it back to the dealer.
  • leob1leob1 Posts: 153
    I take it they ran a diagnostic test and no codes? How about your O's sensor/sensors? How about the catalytic converter/s? After the exhaust gets to a hot temp they start working...at lower temperatures they do not.
  • Maybe just a stab in the dark, but in the old days, sometimes an ignition device, mainly the coil, would overheat and the wires would somehow seperate, causing a loss of spark, till it cooled again.
    Good luck,
    TakeOut
  • My oldie 84, with 86K, 4 cyl, 22R, first year of the electronic controled 4 spd auto, has a prob with the Charge light and Brake light both staying on after the car is started.
    I am getting regular battery voltage of about 11.5 to 12.8 volts all the time. The voltage at the Altenator output is the same, all the time.
    My son, says that the alternator always should be putting out 13.5 to 14.5 volts when the car is running. I said that the regulator will turn off or lower the output from the alt when batt is charged.
    QUESTION: Does the alt reduce it's output voltage wise, when the batt is charged? or does the voltage at the output terminal always stay at 14 volts roughly?
    Thanks for reading.
    TakeOut
  • You need a new alternator
  • If you drive over to an Auto Zone, they can test out both your battery and alternator and it's free.

    That way, you'll know for sure. (My bet is the alternator is going bad but I've seen alternators mess up when the battery is going bad....so the check will let you know.)

    Good Luck!

    Boo
  • I would look into a restricted exhaust system. Anyway you could detach the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and drive? Maybe in someone's field? It will be loud as heck, but if it runs fine you will know there is blockage in the exhaust system. (Don't burn yourself). Good luck!
  • rexrex Posts: 3
    I also have a 05 taco with black holes---How'd you make out?
  • Thanks buddy,
    My son-in-law volunteered to do it since my foot is injured, and will take it to get it tested.
    TakeOut
  • ucscucsc Posts: 48
    Hi Sonnyboy,
    I have a 2004 Tundra V6, and I bought the anti-freeze from the Toyota dealer. The color of my anti-freeze is PINK (long time & anti-corrosion type), $17/gallon.
    UCSC
  • had a problem like with a 2.7L ran great cold but lost power when it reached norm operating temp. it would start cutting out and sometimes die! did all the stuff you did (sensors,filters,ect.) finally was told by toyota my fuel was bad. i quit going to the same ol gas station problem solved! was also told to pour some injector cleaner in the tank on my next fill up.
  • cotacota Posts: 1
    I also noticed same noise with same truck the first day I got it. Mentioned to dealer and they are checking with Toyota to see what is going on.If Toyota is aware we should find out( I hope) eventually. Please reply if you have any info.
  • Hi there... I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma V6 with 21k on it, and I have noticed a noise coming from the engine; it only seems to happen when the car is good and warmed up (after driving 20 miles or so)... it is a rapid "clicking" sound that becomes audible at around 2k RPMs, and gets louder (but not faster) when I press the gas. The "clicking" sounds like metal-on-metal... I'm thinking valves, maybe? It is still under warranty... is this something I should have checked out? I don't want to be a "hypochondriac car owner" or anything, and start bringing the thing at any strange noise, but... any advice and/or possible diagnosis would be great! Thanks
  • My 2004 DC 4X4 Limited has around 10K miles on it now. I am on the second set of front tires, which were replaced at 3500 by the dealer after extreme wear was found. The front end has been aligned three times, and it is still not correct. It still pulls to the right, and the tires have wear on the outside edges. Has anyone else seen this problem, and what was the solution?
This discussion has been closed.