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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • I had a 85 87 90 1\2 ton PUs. Bought them at auto auctions with 70K drive them to 125K and sell them. Bought one gas filter and changed oil at 5K. NEVER any problem.
    In 2002 I bought a wrecked 2000 sst tacoma put 115K. no problem but a engine lite at 95K never fixed, did hesitated at slow speeds. too rich I think.
    Now I have fixed several wrecked trucks for neighbors and am running into all kinds of problems with the Prerunners
    Parts are very expensive. Flairs on wheels cost $900. for 4 and rubbbers to seal against body 25 for plastic holders
    and you cant take off with out ruining them. No stainless screws like honda to hold on this junk big long plastic squares that you screw to and they break and turn about time you get snug.
    Front bumper has fillers (plastic) on top of chrome bumper with 20 holes to hold on 8 ozs of flat plastic cost $120. Never had them at all in 90s. Plastic door handle for tundra is 88.00 Can buy from same factory in japan costs $20 for any toyota handle. Have lots of trouble with sensors, Idle air control motors last about 90K cost 200+ GIVE ME A OLD 94 with the 22R motor and 30 mpg.
    $100.00 headlights now ($5.00 in 96). looks better also
    . Twin cam gets only 24mpg. R22 pulls better with a load to farmer floyd-florida
  • drjaydrjay Posts: 3
    I just leased an SR5 Tundra with the X-SP package(available through SE dealers). The upgrades on the X-SP include 20 inch rims and low profile tires. Just read an article on line which states changes such as this are dangerous due to A) Increase in weight of rims effecting braking. B) Change in speedo reading c) Adverse alteration in handling D) Increase chance of rim damage due to low profile. Is any of this true? If so why would Toyota corporate allow such changes by dealers? Can I assume dealer recalibrated speedo? If I get a flat the spare is the original can I run the truck with an odd size rim e.g. 3 20 inch and one 17 inch?

    Thanks for the help

    Jay

    P.S. Love the truck. No more Rams for me!! :)
  • drjaydrjay Posts: 3
    Odd Problem on my new 06 Tundra. When I unlock the doors with remote the light above the bed comes on. I have to turn it off via switchn on dash. Anyone see this before? Simple fix or trip to dealer??

    Thank you for your help
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    In order-
    a) It's not so much the weight of the rim as the rolling radius. The distance from the roadway to the ctr of the hub is a lever, increasing that increases the braking torque required to provide a given brake force at the ground level. However, if the OEM designed the vehicle to accept optional wheel assemblies of the same or larger size, no prblm. If not, then yes, you are going to have inferior braking capacity.
    b)The rim size is not the whole story. What you need is the "rolling radius" of the new tire vs. the rolling radius of the original. The 3" rim size difference would imply an increase of 3" in diameter, but if you have a lower profile tire than original, the increase won't be that much. Take the new rolling radius, divided by the original. Multiply that times the speedo reading for actual speed if the speedo was not recalibrated.
    c) Same as (a) above, with addition of the additional "unsprung weight of the heavier wheel assembly will give a rougher ride and likely result in tires leaving the pavement more.
    d)With lower profile, you have less spring space available from the tire. A severe hit (like a curb) is more likely to damage the rim.

    Perhaps Toy is not aware of the dealer's actions, or maybe it is authorized, you'll have to ask.
    Recalibration- ask.

    Again, you need rolling radiuses of each wheel. Even so, if you drive SLOWLY and carefully, it may not be worse than the "compact spares" we find in autos.
  • You will see several posts on here and the 4Runner forum re: an alleged transmission thump. Your slip yoke needs to be lubed. The thump will go away. This is a very common problem with the 4WD toyota vehicles. The late shift going downhill is grade logic working as it should...holding the rpms up so that engine breaking can be used should you get off the gas. Hope this helps!
  • Did you wait long enough for it to go out?I just unlocked the doors on my 2006 Tundra.The interior light stays on for about 15 secs and the bed light for about 20 secs.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I just leased an SR5 Tundra with the X-SP package(available through SE dealers). The upgrades on the X-SP include 20 inch rims and low profile tires. Just read an article on line which states changes such as this are dangerous due to A) Increase in weight of rims effecting braking. B) Change in speedo reading c) Adverse alteration in handling D) Increase chance of rim damage due to low profile. Is any of this true? If so why would Toyota corporate allow such changes by dealers? Can I assume dealer recalibrated speedo? If I get a flat the spare is the original can I run the truck with an odd size rim e.g. 3 20 inch and one 17 inch?

    A. I cannot believe that in almost 20 years of doing replacing tires for a living, I have never heard the weight issue, but it makes sense just like a heavier flywheel is harder to slow. Don't think ther is that much difference though by the time you factor in less tire weight. B. The speedo should have been adjusted if the truck comes with the package new. Also, as mentioned above, the outer diameter of the tire is probably close, which would make little speedo difference. C & D. Yes you will lose handling and increase possibility of damage to not only the rims, but also windshields, shocks, struts, body parts, other suspension parts, .... You have a significant decrease in sidewall size which would absorb alot of stress from bumps. Why do the manufacturers allow these safety hazzards on the highways? For the same reason that tire manufactures make them and tire dealers started installing them after refusal for many years...money. From what I saw, kids would come in with daddy's credit card to buy this junk and then return for repairs and new wheels with the same card again. Some argue that low profile tires are usually wider which puts more meat on the ground for handling. Ya, and if the tire is 30% wider, you also have 30% less weight on any given area of the tire. That is why skinny tires wirk so much better in water and snow. You have enough weight to keep the tires on the gound instead of riding up. On perfect pavement, you will likely get better traction out of wider tires. Hit a bump or a puddle and you will be on a carney ride.
  • eppandeppand Posts: 1
    I am having a similar squeaking problem with my 02 Tacoma PreRunner. The squeaking is inconsistent when happening, though it appears to happen more often when the temperature is cooler/cold (less than 40 F). The squeaking will stop when I release the gas pedal and I have to be moving better than 25 MPH. It does not squeak at idol or when revving the engine at idol to similar RPMS. Does this sound like a belt tensioners problem? Any advice?
  • mrvn2mrvn2 Posts: 3
    I have a 93 pickup and have the same problem, I've check the bulbs ground , brakelight switch with no luck going to look for a plug or something coroded
  • stepprkstepprk Posts: 1
    This is exactly the problem I am having. How did you fix your truck?

    Thanks for your help.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    Odd Problem on my new 06 Tundra. When I unlock the doors with remote the light above the bed comes on. I have to turn it off via switchn on dash. Anyone see this before? Simple fix or trip to dealer??

    Not only should the light go out after a predetermined time, but if you take off it should go out at about 3 MPH. If time shuts it off but not driving, you need to go back to the dealer. It is a safety thing to not be on when driving.
  • mrvn2mrvn2 Posts: 3
    HELP !!!!! my right directional lights go on when I step on the brake pedal and the brake lights flash with the right directional I have checked the grounds and sockets, replaced ALL bulbs and the flasher...no luck For some reason the + side of the turn and brake /parking lights are connected ... any Ideas ???
  • joe544joe544 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 thundra , every time it sets for more than a week the battery goes dead. I have had it at the dealer 3 times. The dealer said that is normal for all the electronics on it. I don't think it true. Has anyone else had this problem ? I think it has a short in system some where.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If you have replaced the OEM battery, then I would be a bit surprised that the battery is dead after, say, 8 days.
    However, if you have the original battery in it, it's quite possible. The sulfation of the battery over time results in flakes of the plates falling to the bottom of the cells. The cells have some empty space at the bottom to accommodate some of this without shorting the cells, however, eventually, some of the material will short some of the cells. This weakens the battery by allowing additional internal discharge and reducing the amount of active plate area. Most lead acid automotive batteries succumb in 4-5 yrs. (some make it far longer, some croak in 3 yrs) Prior to becoming completely useless a large part of the reserve capacity is lost. (Most of my batteries have died in the early winter, often I find the prblms right after the first cold night or two, when the early morning start up requires the most oomph from the battery.)

    Anyway, the point is that if you have a 3 yr plus battery, it may serve you for another year or so if not forced to maintain a charge for more than a week without recharging, but it may not be all it was before.

    OTOH, it should be possible to disconnect the battery and test the leakage in the system to determine if it is above spec.

    If you have a relatively new battery, the vehicle should be able to sit idle for a week or two and still start.

    When you say the battery is dead- do you mean completely dead (nothing works, no horn, cab lights, radio, nothing?) or will it just not start the vehicle?
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    I like your well thought-out post, msibille.
    I also liked your post about oil changes on the other Toyota thread.

    Best, ss4
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    thnx. we do what we can...
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Oh, and happy Edmunds anniversary 4/13.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    While it may be a common acronym in casual conversation, absolutely NO references to the F-word are allowed in the Forums. This is a violation of our profanity policy. Thanks!

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • lynkellynkel Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me where to find an after market air filter for a 2005 4cyl. Tacoma.
    I would rather not pay dealership prices, however an air filter for this year and size seems to be difficult to locate
  • jaminnjaminn Posts: 2
    I was trying to wire my trailer harness, but it wasn't working right. Do I need to do something more than simply wire from the trailer connector to the 7 pin round plug that goes into the socket on the truck? I have a factory installed towing package. It doesn't seem to work right, and I pretty sure the wiring is right. Especially with the truck lights on, the turn signals and brake light is acting screwy.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    If you don't have trailer brakes, you will need to wire the left blinker, right blinker, tail lights and the ground wire. Lack of a ground may work when the trailer is connected, but the lights will be intermittant at best.
  • jaminnjaminn Posts: 2
    Thanks. Yes, the more I read it seems that I may have a ground problem. The trailer has been sitting for quite some time, and when I looked at the ground connections they were pretty rusty. I'm going to clean all that up and see if that helps. At least I can eliminate that from the equation.
  • duane6duane6 Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 4door tacoma without trailer wiring and now need to put in wiring. The local hitch place sold me two wiring harnesses to be able to complete the installation. One, to the lights was easy. I'm having trouble finding a stop light wire connection that's easy to make without cutting into the stop light switch. Is there a connector for that purpose? Thanks.
  • ronray43ronray43 Posts: 1
    I went through the same thing last summer. The Tacoma uses a 4 wire system, and the trailer probably uses a 5 wire system. Simply go to your local auto parts store and pick up an adapter--has worked great since installation. Should cost less than $10.

    Cheers,
    Ron
  • duane6duane6 Posts: 2
    Thanks Ron,
    I did go to a hitch place and they gave me a 4 wire harness to hook up to the back lights, and then a two wire harness for power and the brake. The trailer uses a 7 pin connector without using the middle pin. The brake wire connection that was suggested by the hitch place was a splice into the wire which comes from the switch located just behind the brake peddle. I guess after looking at the wiring diagram from the toyota manual there may not be a plug-in under the dash. May have to go with the splice.

    duane
  • tundra_4x4tundra_4x4 Posts: 4
    I also have a 2004 tundra, with V8, a mechanic friend of mine said it was due to the oil not staying at the top of the engine. So you are basically getting a dry start, once the oil pumps through the engine, the parts are lubricated and the noise goes away. He had worked on North American vehicles for years, he said its probably the Hydraulic Valve lifters which need to be replaced, because the O-Rings are cracked which allows oil to go back into the pan.
  • tundra_4x4tundra_4x4 Posts: 4
    In the 2004 Tundra owner's manual, it states that the battery can run flat IF you keep your headlights in the "ON" position, they turn off when the vehicle turns off, but apparently still draws power.
  • two34two34 Posts: 2
    there are fuel injector cleaners available - not the additive for the fuel tank - its a pressurized system that attaches to the fuel rail - the existing fuel line is temporarily blocked so the engine runs on the cleaner only - you might have your local garage do this before investing in a set of new injectors
  • up4milesup4miles Posts: 1
    I have began to have trouble starting the engine of my '95 Toyota Tacoma 2WD when the outside air temperature is @ 70 degrees or above. It only seems to happen after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temp and I park, shut it down, and them try to restart it. It turns over fine but just won't start. After I try for several minutes, i smell a strange smell like strong exhaust. It will eventually crank, but not till I've worked at it for 10 min or so. If I allow it to totally cool down or if the air temp is lower it doesn't seem to have a problem. Any suggestions on what it could be or how to fix??
This discussion has been closed.