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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • I recently lowered my taco with a 3/4 drop, a kit by DJM. The rear is great the front though is a problem. I have 18" rims the stuck out past the fender and now rub BAD on turns. Any suggestions, might have to remove the front part of the kit. Can anyone tell me if a prerunner fender will fit my 2WD Xtra Cab?
  • teeundrateeundra Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I purchased a 04' DC used with 24 k on it and pretty much since day one, it's had a humming noise coming from the rear of the truck. I chalked it up to wind noise but reading through the forums I'm wondering if there isn't more to this noise. It really only happens around 40-50 MPH and sounds almost like a harmonic imbalance. Anyone else having this same noise? I read through the problems others have had with their shocks but I don't believe it's that. Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • My tundra now has 75,000 miles and the check engine light comes on. I've reset it many times but it continues to come on. I've checked it with the computer analyzer and it says I have small leak in the evaporization control system. What should I check ?
  • eschneideschneid Posts: 2
    I've got a 94 T100 with the 3.slow v6. Wouldn't start the other day, so I jumped it from a buddy. Happened again, so I checked it out. Battery was good, pulled the alternator and took it to O'Reilly's. When they checked it out they said it was okay, putting out 14 volts. When I brought it home and put it on the mult-meter I was looking more at 13.0 to 13.5 volts. Is there any reason that anyone could think of that the alternator would put out less juice when installed? Or was the guy at O'Reilly's trying to get out of a warranty swap?
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Cheap and easy things first-

    Check your fuel cap O-Ring for cuts, cracking, etc. that would prevent sealing.
    Check the filler neck for gouges, dents or dings (maybe from some ham-fisted station attendant? - I actually had someone fill my rental car in Alberta last month!)

    Then, check for any obvious physical damage to the canister, check the vapor line between the canister and the fuel tank, check other lines from the canister.
    Check for leaks between fuel tank and engine compartment.

    Good hunting!

    -m
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Generally 13.5 to 15VDC is in spec.

    Possibilities-

    * Your meter or OReilly's (or both) is a bit off. (I'm willing to bet that there's no calibration sticker showing the last time it was checked to a standard. -But then, neither is there one on mine at home.)

    * Belt slippage and/or low RPM.
    Check the engine rpm to see if in spec.
    Try speeding the engine to 1100 rpm or so and recheck.

    * Ground issues. Where did you measure the voltage?
    Did you carefully check the ground connections? Btwn battery and chassis, engine and chassis, alternator and chassis? A bad ground will not only cost you voltage in charging the battery, but may also offset the output of the alternator.

    (Actually, for nearly every 12VDC system problem, the first thing to check is the condition of grounds.)

    Good hunting.
  • tacoma07tacoma07 Posts: 2
    Does anyone know a good website or parts place to get a power steering inlet hose, the high pressure one for a '99 Tacoma?
  • wrknnnwrknnn Posts: 1
    IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SYSTEM OR A LOSS OFF FLOW CHECK YOUR FUEL PRESSURE AND AIR FILTER MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE A BLOCKAGE. ALSO YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK YOUR CAT FOR RESTRICTION. AND YOUR FUEL FILTER.
  • eschneideschneid Posts: 2
    I added an additional (heavier) ground wire to the frame, and the condition seemed to improve. Thanks for the tip.

    >Erik
  • issisteelmanissisteelman Posts: 124
    Hi folks,

    I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma (4wd, standard) and recently ran into a problem with the emergency brake. The e-brake locked up on me one day. Apparently this is a common problem for Tacomas (according to the garage) and the temporary solution (to get out of a jamb) is relatively simple and the actual repair is not that costly. If this happens to you, a small hammer will release the brakes until you can get the truck to the garage for a permanent fix. The e-brake cable is connected to a small lever on the back side of the brake drum. Locate these levers (1 per drum) and take your hammer and tap the lever towards the drum. This will release the e-brake at each drum. You can then drive the vehicle. This problem is caused by rust build-up on the pivot point of these levers. This rust prevents the lever from returning to the normal position (freezing the brakes). The mechanic at the garage says this is a common Tacoma problem and he has fixed many of them. The fix is simple (no parts cost, approximate 2 hour labor charge). They simply remove these levers (I think they are held on by 2 bolts), blast clean them and paint them and then re-install them. The problem is easily fixed in one afternoon. They charged me $100 (2 hours @ $50/hour) for this repair (more than fair in my opinion). By the way, this is the first problem I've had on my 2001 Tacoma and I use it in the woods on dirt roads (with mud) all of the time (knock on wood). Hope everyone else is having good luck with their Tacomas. Take care........Brungy.
  • I own a '99 Tacoma PreRunner XCab 3.4L. I passed 60K and checked the brakes. Long story short, my front outside brake pad is just on the replace limit. Bought the pads, jacked the truck, all the normal stuff. After taking the pins out, I CANNOT remove the pads on the left side. Either one is completely unmovable. I tried using vice grips - no luck. I tried to tap them with a hammer and then pull - no luck. (I don't dare try to mess with the right side)

    So, I admit defeat and try and put everything back together only to realize I'm in a pickle. In the process of tapping with the hammer, I've managed to move the pads just enough inward to mess up the alignment of the retaining pins. Now I can't get the pins back in completely. Wonderful!

    Oh, some background, the truck has been in the snow, salt, slush environment of upstate New York for most of its lift. There was a lot of rust crud in and around the pads and calibers.

    Any comments or suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Mike, Upstate New York
  • baileys1baileys1 Posts: 16
    It's true, I got the same problem on my 2002 Tacoma Prerunner and my cousin, who's got a 1989 told me when I bought mind. Thanks for the fix, I thought it was something simple like that. :)
  • baileys1baileys1 Posts: 16
    I don't have that MID-RANGE either on my radio and I bought this truck brand new, I will check out my book and let you know later.
  • dpiperdpiper Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 toyota tacoma single cab 5 speed and my truck is doing the same thing and it only has 14000 miles on it the dealership first told me it was normal compressor noise yeah right. then they told me it was gear rattle and they changed the gear oil and added a additive and it made it a little more quiet but it is still there so i am trying to get it replaced under the lemon law but check out your gear oil it might need to be changed. Hope it helps email me back
  • footpoundsfootpounds Posts: 22
    You probably have a MID-RANGE but it is "hidden". You have to press the tuner knob and hold it in for approx. 10-15 seconds. You will then hear a BEEP. Release the knob and then press it again to get to the adjustments. You will notice that you now have a MID-RANGE that you can adjust. Be advised however that unless you turn the radio off BEFORE you turn the ignition off or if you start your truck with the radio on, the MID-RANGE will be gone and you will have to repeat the above procedure to get it back. Enjoy your new adjustment and yes, it does make a nice difference! (I don't know why this is hidden and my owner's manual makes no mention of this either...go figure)
  • I have a 93 toyota pickup with a 22re and a 5spd it started making a loud knocking sound from the front upper corner of the motor. It doesn't sound like a bad rocker or arm but rather a metal piece loose in that area banging around. It almost sounds like the distributor shaft is broken but I pulled the cap and rotor and the shaft doesn't wiggle around. Another reason I believe it may be something electrical is because when I drove the truck I came to a stop the engine would rev itself up to around 3,000rpm with no input from me. The truck still has the same amount of power and runs perfectly except for the knocking and the revving.
    PLEASE HELP
  • kimos4x4kimos4x4 Posts: 1
    Similar problem with my 1993 toyota V6 3.0L. Toyota Tech spent 16 days before finding root cause to be water temp sensor. Sounds like your water temp sensor feedback when truck is warm unstable. Of course when its cold nothing is wrong. Well Good Luck
    Regards,
    Kimo
  • conniecconniec Posts: 2
    Does anyone have any information on the head recall? I have a 1995 xtracab DX & a 1996 xtracab SR5 4WD. I had received a card in the mail and can't find it. The dealer knows nothing about it. I would appreciate any info anyone might have...I've never had trouble with either truck and both have well over 150,000k.
  • conniecconniec Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm looking for info on the head recall...my dealer doesn't know anything about it. Can you give me some info?
  • c2rosac2rosa Posts: 76
    Front suspension problems could hinder steering and cause crash.
    Models:
    774,856 vehicles including 01-02 4Runner, 01-04 Tacoma, and 02-04 Sequoia and Tundra. Hazard exists because front suspension lower ball joint could wear excessively and become loose, resulting in increased steering effort. If the lower ball joint separates completely, driver could lose steering ability.
This discussion has been closed.