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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions



  • jaminnjaminn Posts: 2
    I was trying to wire my trailer harness, but it wasn't working right. Do I need to do something more than simply wire from the trailer connector to the 7 pin round plug that goes into the socket on the truck? I have a factory installed towing package. It doesn't seem to work right, and I pretty sure the wiring is right. Especially with the truck lights on, the turn signals and brake light is acting screwy.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    If you don't have trailer brakes, you will need to wire the left blinker, right blinker, tail lights and the ground wire. Lack of a ground may work when the trailer is connected, but the lights will be intermittant at best.
  • jaminnjaminn Posts: 2
    Thanks. Yes, the more I read it seems that I may have a ground problem. The trailer has been sitting for quite some time, and when I looked at the ground connections they were pretty rusty. I'm going to clean all that up and see if that helps. At least I can eliminate that from the equation.
  • duane6duane6 Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 4door tacoma without trailer wiring and now need to put in wiring. The local hitch place sold me two wiring harnesses to be able to complete the installation. One, to the lights was easy. I'm having trouble finding a stop light wire connection that's easy to make without cutting into the stop light switch. Is there a connector for that purpose? Thanks.
  • ronray43ronray43 Posts: 1
    I went through the same thing last summer. The Tacoma uses a 4 wire system, and the trailer probably uses a 5 wire system. Simply go to your local auto parts store and pick up an adapter--has worked great since installation. Should cost less than $10.

  • duane6duane6 Posts: 2
    Thanks Ron,
    I did go to a hitch place and they gave me a 4 wire harness to hook up to the back lights, and then a two wire harness for power and the brake. The trailer uses a 7 pin connector without using the middle pin. The brake wire connection that was suggested by the hitch place was a splice into the wire which comes from the switch located just behind the brake peddle. I guess after looking at the wiring diagram from the toyota manual there may not be a plug-in under the dash. May have to go with the splice.

  • tundra_4x4tundra_4x4 Posts: 4
    I also have a 2004 tundra, with V8, a mechanic friend of mine said it was due to the oil not staying at the top of the engine. So you are basically getting a dry start, once the oil pumps through the engine, the parts are lubricated and the noise goes away. He had worked on North American vehicles for years, he said its probably the Hydraulic Valve lifters which need to be replaced, because the O-Rings are cracked which allows oil to go back into the pan.
  • tundra_4x4tundra_4x4 Posts: 4
    In the 2004 Tundra owner's manual, it states that the battery can run flat IF you keep your headlights in the "ON" position, they turn off when the vehicle turns off, but apparently still draws power.
  • two34two34 Posts: 2
    there are fuel injector cleaners available - not the additive for the fuel tank - its a pressurized system that attaches to the fuel rail - the existing fuel line is temporarily blocked so the engine runs on the cleaner only - you might have your local garage do this before investing in a set of new injectors
  • up4milesup4miles Posts: 1
    I have began to have trouble starting the engine of my '95 Toyota Tacoma 2WD when the outside air temperature is @ 70 degrees or above. It only seems to happen after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temp and I park, shut it down, and them try to restart it. It turns over fine but just won't start. After I try for several minutes, i smell a strange smell like strong exhaust. It will eventually crank, but not till I've worked at it for 10 min or so. If I allow it to totally cool down or if the air temp is lower it doesn't seem to have a problem. Any suggestions on what it could be or how to fix??
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    F-word? You mean "Fart"? LOL ;)
  • dianeedianee Posts: 1
    I had my transmission rebuilt and the mechanic is having trouble getting the gears to shift correctly. It is a '95 Toyota 2 wheel drive extended cab, small (quarter ton) pickup. It is a 4 cylinder engine. Does anyone have the specs for how the transmission should shift? Or know where I can look them up online? It has 3 forward gears and overdrive for the 4th gear. The shift lever is on the steering column. Currently it shifts at 20-25, 40-45, and 65-70 for the overdrive which is not right. The engine rpms are too high before going into third and fourth gears. Any information would be appreciated and ASAP. Many thanks.

  • jrfan2jrfan2 Posts: 7
    I have a '04 Tundra DC. My Keyless Entry remote stopped working, I have changed the battery and still no go. Is there a way to reprogram the remote?

  • 864x4864x4 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone thanks in advance for the help!

    As title states, we have an 86 Toyota 4x4 22RE engine.

    Yesterday, as I was driving into the mall parking lot, the truck seemed to start to lose power. (I thought - Oh man! Let me get into a spot! - It did - I love my truck :) Ok sorry, so I left the truck in the spot and waited for bf to get home from work, he went to the truck and it started, but it wants to die right away.

    He also mentioned that when holding clutch, brake and gas (otherwise it dies) at about 2000 rpm he heard an awful clunk in the engine. (It does make this "clunk" sound, and its not pretty...)

    So this morning, I got the truck towed home, and I would like to see if I might be able to solve the issue before the BF gets home.

    The truck starts fine. Will start now, but the second you try to push the gas, it dies. It doesnt seem gas related to me EXCEPT for the fact that I had purchased gas about 5 mins before it broke down. I purchased the same gas we have bought the truck for over 5 yrs, from the same place, so I dont think it will be tainted gas.

    Any help you can offer would be super, I do have some mechanical ability and do understand most parts, so dont be afraid to help me, LOL

  • germany1germany1 Posts: 2
    I’m a Soldier currently stationed in German and my 2002 Tundra O2 oxygen sensor just went out right at 75,000 miles. The dealer here does not sale Toyota trucks and they are not aware of any technical bulletins with an extended warrantee. If anyone knows where I can get my hands on this warrantee information I would certainly appreciate your help…..
  • tundradudetundradude Posts: 588
    I have that warranty enhancement notice.

    The warranty extension is offered for a period of 7 years or 90000 miles.

    The specific components covered are:

    number 1 oxygen sensor, bank 1 (left side exhaust manifold)
    number 2 oxygen sensor, bank 2 (right side em)

    The diagnostic codes are P0135 and P0155.

    Hope this helps!
  • tundradudetundradude Posts: 588
    Toyota Motor Sales USA INc.
    19001 South Western Ave.
    PO Box 2991
    Torrance, CA 90509-2991
  • germany1germany1 Posts: 2
    Thanks tundradude! How can I get a copy of the mechanical bulletin for my "Deutschland Mechanics?" They are trying to change me 800 euro($1,050) for this job.
  • toyo671toyo671 Posts: 2
    the keyless entry remote can be reprogramed, if the remote is working properly. the dealership will be able to reprogram it for a small service fee. i've had it done to my truck.
  • toyo671toyo671 Posts: 2
    I have a loud tapping noise coming from the engine(V6), seems to get louder after the engines warms up and heard more at idle. I had the dealership take a look and they said it was coming from the injectors. Sounds to me like they don't know. Anyone else have this problem?
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