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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • It is possible that as the engine space heats up, the starter body will expand. If this happens, the contacts won't connect. As the starter cools down, it will again make contact. I remember this happening on GM's back in the 60's. Solution? A new starter? Somehow insulating the starter with some kind of a blanket?

    Just some thoughts.
  • I have the same problem. Took it to a dealer. They guessed it was the valve adjustment. Sounds to me lie an injector or the old style lifters.
    Toyota told me the engine doesn't have "lifters" in the traditional sense.
    Anyway, to make a long story short, they douldn't find anything out of Toyota specs.

    The problem is getting worse, and it makes me feel uneasy.
    I plan to contact Toyota directly, to see if they have any feeback.
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    Mine has the same noise although it's a 4cyl model(2006)with 3500 miles on it. I hear the noise constantly as long as my foot is on the gas pedal. Toyota told me 3 months ago that a fuel-line bracket was causing the noise but never heard from them again as to when the newly designed one is available.
    But when I checked with my local dealer, they told me that this does not apply to the 4cyl models. So, maybe it applies to the 6cyl model like yours.
  • I have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma and it has only 30,000 miles,
    but I just bought a new business so my friend says I'll need a bigger truck but I don't want a bigger truck. So he says a campper will do the trick. But the campper will make the truck look odd. Is there another way? :confuse: Please reply back!
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    How does a camper shell make the truck look odd? There are plenty of Tacomas with shells, and they look awesome. Check here. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t98844.html
  • prissy2prissy2 Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Double Cab that I bought brand new, It has 37,584 miles on it now. It has also a belt and tensioner problem, or so the dealership tells me. Would you happen to know if that is covered by an extended warranty?
  • prissy2prissy2 Posts: 2
    I've had similar problems w/my truck but mine is an 05 Tundra. The slightest pebble will make it crack and run...mine has been fixed 3times in 6 months. The dealer that replaced the windshield said that they are made very cheap and thin. I can't say I disagree.
  • We have a 2005 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 Access Cab and on a recent trip to Northwest Georgia, driving on Interstate 75 we noticed when approaching a minimal upgrade the vehicle downshifted from overdrive to 3rd gear and sometimes second gear. It completely bypasses fourth gear and by doing so causes the vehicle to accelerate accompanied by a loud engine noise. Has anyone experienced a similar situation? We were told by our delearship the problem cannot be fixed.
  • dbiggsdbiggs Posts: 1
    I am having the same issues with my 1999 Toyota Tacoma SR5, 5 speed manual.
    First time, will not crank, then on second try it will.
    What was the outcome to your prerunner "ekartanowicz"? Any info is much appreciated!!

    Also, yesterday, it did turn over on the first time but it felt like the starter would not stop cranking. The engine was running fine but there was a whinning noise.
    I turned the truck off, took the key out, and it was still trying to turn over. The truck began to shake. After about 10 seconds of this, it stopped, I restarted and eveyrthing has been fine since.... :sick:
  • I have a 2001 Tacoma double cab 4X4. I'm the original owner and have done all the scheduled maintenances.

    A couple weeks ago the check engine light came "ON" I was low on gas, so I was thinking maybe the pressure was low and filled the tank. I did some research on the web and read that sometimes a computer needed to be reset...so I pulled the EFI fuse and put it back...BTW what's the EFI?...the check engine light turned "OFF" after I started driving. A week later, I went on a business trip and left my car idle in a parking garage. And today the check engine light came back "ON"

    Any ideas?
  • After I typed this message, the check light turned off. This is the 2nd time the light has turned "ON" and then went "OFF"
  • My experience...Poor grade of fuel. DON'T BUY ARCO GAS. Get some high octane in there & the light will go out. If the tank is full of suspected poor grade fuel, add 1 gallon (ONLY 1 gallon) of diesel. This will clean out the garbage & also do a great job of cleaning your injectors. (Can do NO harm) Your engine light will be off almost immediately. Of course, you'll still probably find some smut in your fuel filter on the next change.
  • I am having a problem with the check engine light coming on when the gas tank is at a half tank or less. This has happened three times the bizarre part is it is at the same exact spot all three times! The first time it came on I unscrewed the gas and retighted it and it went off. A few weeks later at the same spot at a half tank it came on again. I figured that the gas cap was bad and got a new one. I filled the tank and put the new cap on and presto it went off but when the tank got to a half tank again at the same spot it came on again. I was thinking it had something to do with the fact that I live in a higher elevation and when I got down to a lower elevation it was causing a pressure problem in the tank. I am going to try to fill the tank again today and see if it goes out. Any other suggestion???
  • Well I went and put gas in and the light went out! So I will see if it comes back on when it gets to half a tank. Is there a senser or something that might need to be changed or reset :) ?
  • have your truck get a check engine light diagnosis (autozone does them for free) my suspicion is that it may be an O2 sensor. My 99 does the same thing and one quick way is to disconnect and reconnect the battery terminals. This will reset the light.
  • I have an 01' Tundra with 65k. My tundra makes a loud clunk noise which is definately coming from the trans. It happens when I'm going maybe 50-60 mph when I let off the gas only, not when accelerating. When the problem first started it would shift in to fifth gear, well overdrive. Now when I'm driving at 60mph my rpms are at 2K, I know that's not right.
    I turned the o/d button off and it would stay in 3rd, but when I turn it back on, it does shift into 4th, but that's it. Doesn't trans have 5th gear? I think my problems are in the overdrive gears. Has anyone had or is having these similar problems? Please let me know. Thanks.
  • Neither of my brake lights work. The fuse is good, and the bulbs are good, what could this be?!

    The high-mount brake light DOES work, so it doesn't appear to be the pedal switch.

    This is a 2000 SR5 Double Cab Tundra 2WD V8 with 90k miles. I'm the original owner, I've never had any other problems, there have been absolutely no modifications to the truck, everything is stock. It has never been in an accident, I've never towed a trailer, nothing like this at all. The wiring harnesses at the tail light assembly all look fine.

    Any suggestions appreciated. Should I take this to the corner shop?
  • Trying to keep costs down; considering a 1999 Tacoma Prerunner, has around 145,500 miles on it. I hear how Toyotas can easily last 200,000, but don't want to buy a car that only has around 55,000 miles left before it starts falling apart. How long can these trucks last?
  • I have a 1999, 2 wheel drive, manual transmission, extended cab Tacoma with 112,000 miles. I recently had all 3 u-joints replaced as well as the support bearing. Immediately after the work was done, I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel while driving between about 20 and 30 mph. The other day, I noticed a vibration sound coming from under the truck that seems to be at about the same frequency as the vibration. The sound and vibration occur between 28 and 40 mph. At all other speeds it runs smooth as silk. Now it gets real interesting: If there's a passenger in the truck with me or if I am carrying something over about 100 pounds either behind the front seats or in the bed, the sound and vibration go away! This of course makes it very diffcult for the mechanic to determine what's going on since when I ride with him, nothing happens and when he drives it alone, nothing happens either because he weighs about 100 pounds more than me! Also, the frequency of the vibration/sound doesn't seem to change as the speed varies from 28 to 40 mph and it's there whether or not the clutch is engaged. Revving the engine with the truck parked doesn't result in the sound or vibration. After not being able to hear of feel anything during the test drives, the mechanic gave everything a thorough going-over on the lift (I watched) and could find nothing....everything seems "solid as a rock". Any suggestions?
  • Just a note to see if anyone is having problems with their 2005 Tundra Double Cabs with automatic transmission.

    I currently own one, purchased in January after 3000 miles the transmission needed replacing (vibration at 35 mph). I didn't ask many questions. On my ride home the repaired transmission would not shift properly and often dropping from 4th gear to 1st. I quickly returned to the dealer and after running a diagnostic I was told the computer needed to be reflashed and it seemed to solve any problems.

    Now 4000 miles later and another crazy ride of the transmission not shifting out of 1st gear I was told by the dealer I needed a new transmission again. This time the service rep after much questioning stated that Toyota is having quality problems with some internal parts.

    All of the work has been done by a Toyota dealer under warranty but I'm thinking this is a bigger problem. Toyota promotes quality and long lasting trucks but I'm having a hard time believing this. :sick:

    1badtundra
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