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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • deminindeminin Posts: 214
    Toyota is adding a new feature to its 2004 Tundra's. They are installing a heated tailgate so that the owner has a nice warm place to sit while waiting for the tow truck when they run out of gas.
  • kermit66kermit66 Posts: 3
    referring to line entry 33. Did you go to arbritration...SP. I hope you won. It sucks putting all that money into a new toy and then have it crap out on you. I'm curious to know what happened.

    Kermit66
  • jdman1997jdman1997 Posts: 1
    I am a first time toyota tundra owner. After the experience i had with a 1999 camry, i was convinced toyota was the way to go.
    I tow a small john deere tractor, model 955 which weighs in at 1990 lbs. The backhoe weighs 800 lbs and the loader weighs 450 lbs total weight is 3240 lbs. Trailer weighs approx 600 lbs. I tow this tractor maybe 2 to 4 times a year, short distances.
    My brake problems started almost as soon as i purchased the vehicle. When i took it back to the dealership, i was told they were aware of the problem, and they would install new rear drums due to a design flaw of being to lite weight. That was the beginning of a long jurney into toyota brake service problems. To make a long story short, my truck has 13767 miles on it, and the entire brake system has been replaced twice. This last attempt they replaced all 4 wheels and tires, and the only thing the service advisor said was call the company and file my complaint again.
    My truck is a 2002 SR5 Access Cab v-6 2 wheel drive.
  • johnmeijohnmei Posts: 44
    I am seriously considering purchasing a 2003 in a few days or waiting about 6 weeks and also look at the 2004 Tundra 4x4, Access Cab, V8 with the towing package, etc. The other vehicle I am considering is the totally new 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3V8, Z71, and towing package. I have heard that the problems of the past few years were elimated with the new 2003 model? I am retired. I have heard from a few friends that they get 18-19 1/2 mpg on the highway and 15 or better around town with the 5.3 V8. True or false, I don't know. Do you? The Sierra 1500 has nice style, a lot of space and comfort. The other vehicle I am considering is the Toyota Tundra 4x4 V8 although its rear seat is VERY small and the gas mileage I am told is about 16-17 on the highway and 13 - 15 mpg around town. However, it is a "bullet-proof" vehicle as far as safety, reliability and fit and finish. I have had 3 Toyota vehicles (not pickups but currently an Avalon) and they are virtually trouble free with a very strong front end that hardly ever needs alignment, regardless of the road condition.
    I read alot of negative comments. What are the positive comments about the 2003 Tundra and/or Sierra 4x4, 5.3 V8? Has anyone had both vehicles and honestly can compare the two from personal experience. I really need your input, advice, and experiences. Many thanks-John

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  • mlempiremlempire Posts: 34
    just bought this truck and it had the heads recalled and repaired by dealer..3.4LTR barely passed smog .89000 miles
     mphs rpm %co2 %02 HC C0
                           max/ave/meas max/ave/meas
    15 1697 14.9 .2 52/6/50 .66/.02/.38
    25 1661 15.1 .1 36/6/12 .80/.02/.04

                 no(ppm)
              max/ave/meas
          
    15 mph 517/82/489
    25 mph 770/74/38

    do I have a bad Cat or 02 sensor ???? no check engine lights on ... HELP!
  • jlohnjlohn Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased a new 03 Tundra. I noticed right from the beginning that after the engine is warmed up and at idle the oil pressure drops very low, almost to the bottom of the gauge.

    Is this normal?
    I've seen somewhere that there is a TSB about replacing the gauge, is this really a guage problem and the pressure is really ok?

    Thanks
  • alkoalko Posts: 13
    Dear PreRunner owners,

    Does anyone but me hear clunking from under vehicle when changing gears?

    During the shift into “Drive” or “Reverse” you feel a slight pause, then hear a clunk. It sounds like it is coming from the tranny area. On my truck it first appeared at about 15K miles.

    Toyota's mechanic said it's a well known problem specific for all PreRunners. I think this is BS.
    Before I go back and rip him another one I'd like to hear from other PreRunner's owners with similar problems... Anyone?
  • Hi Alko,

    I have an 03 4x2 PreRunner and I've never heard any clunking associated with the tranny. Sorry, but I think your mechanic is full of a brown substance which isn't motor oil. ;-)
    --Tonkagal
  • alkoalko Posts: 13
    Tonkagal,

    How many miles do you have on your Pre-Runner?
    I first noticed this problem at about 15K miles.

    --alko
  • Alko,

    I'm having the same problem on my 2002 Dcab w/ 27K mi. Also on approaching an intersection and braking, just as I stop I have an audible "pop" which sounds like it's coming from the transmission. When in traffic(start/stop driving)it pops when going from neutral to first, first to second and vice versa. On occassion it "lurches" from first to second. I was looking at some older postings on edmunds and it doesn't look good for us alko. One fellow has had his taco in and out of the shop with no fix. Some have replaced the tranny, replaced center drive shaft carrier bearing. I also read something about axle warp. When I took mine in, the service dept manager drove it and had it about half the day. They said there was nothing wrong with it; I call BS on that one. I bet if it had 36001 mi on it, it would have plenty wrong with it. Let me know if you come up with a fix and I'll post a message if my service dept comes up with a remedy. I live in an area where there are at least 7 toyo dealers, so I may try another service dept. Good luck
  • My 2000 V8 Tundra has about 36K miles and running fine. The problem that I have is with the Engine check warning light staying ON. Once the battery is removed and reconnected, this Engine check will be off for a day or two. Manual said bring the car to the dealer. Engine oil, Transmission fluid, Coolant temperature are all OK. Truck is running normally with no extra fuel consumption. Any suggestions?
  • I have the above w/automatic. I have <4000 miles and have experienced the clunking as described by alko. I took it back to the dealer at 75 miles and they said 'no problem'. This was in Orlando, Fl. Now, I am in Tucson and took it to a dealer today. I was told that this is 'characteristic of all AT Tacomas'. It has nothing to do with the tranny, but is movement of the rear end. They said the problem doesn't exist with the manual tranny. I wonder why this 'characteristic' wasn't disclosed prior to the sale.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Don't know if they have them where you live, but if you go to an AutoZone auto parts store, they will read your check engine code for free and get essentially the same info. When they tell you what the reading is you can proceed from there with more knowledge about what may be wrong.

    This is what we did with my fiancee's car, a 1996 Ford Contour, and believe me the light came on often. It was supposedly the EGR valve, so we replaced that. The light came on again but now it's off (I hope for good). Next time we'll buy a Toyota that will last like my truck which has 182,200+ miles on it!!

    Good luck with your truck.
  • I had a 2001 Tundra truck and had replaced the brake system completely 3 times. (I was 1 of 10 people who had the problem)After hearing the horror stories from "tundra solutions" about everyone and their brake problems and then having th dealer tell me that the brake problem was going to be my expense after the warranty ran out, which was in 4,000 miles I dumped the truck. Now I have my second Subaru Outback, but this one is the H6 version and after 7,000 miles it's brakes warped as well. On the edmunds subaru site numerous owners have complained about the same problem. I think there is a problem with the brake industry in general.
  • gee1gee1 Posts: 1
    My husband had a problem with his ck eng lite on his 2001 Tundra. It took many times into the dealership for service. It was an 02 sensor apparently there are 4 and the one that it turn out to be #4 was jammed in there but the got it out and replaced it havent had a problem since. We now have a very loud squeaky brake problem when he backs anyone have this problem?
  • I purchased a used 2001 Prerunner (6cyl)with 47K miles and a new set of 4 Continental Sportiva P265/70/16. Had a vibration from the floorboard through the steering wheel from 56 to 66 MPH. Dealer has had the truck in 3 seperate occasions and says the tires are balanced. I took the truck too 2 tire dealers and paid to have them check the balance. They have all said the same thing, the tires are balanced, but when I take them for a test drive showing the vibration has not left, they tell me it must be the tires. The dealership has what they call a road force balancer and according to them it can tell them if the tires are bad, problem rims, etc. Their machine says everything is ok? I was told by one of the Toyota mechanics that the 6cyl. motor is not balanced very well and that may be the problem? From talking to several other mechanics, it could be the driveshaft, ball joints and/or the rims. Before I purchase 4 new tires,has anyone else has had this problem, and if so how was it resolved?
  • My 00 Tundra light came on in 03 at just under 30,000 miles. 45 minutes at the dealer to replace an O2 sensor and no charge to me.
  • Hello all. I'm coming up on 30k miles in my 2.7 ltr. 2001 4x4 Tacoma. So far, I've kept up with oil changes (every 5k), Tire rotations, and changed my air cleaning filter back around 16k (give or take). Everything seems to be running fine. Should I consider any fluid/oil flushes of any other maintenance at 30k or if it ain't broke, I shouldn't try and fix it?
  • Preventive Maintenance is always a good thing. Most cars that have the 30K flush I call it, age very well. My wifes 95 Corolla is a good example which currently has 147K. However, I had one of the first 2.7 engines in a 94 T100. I did my first maintenance around 60K and my friend (who bought it) has done it at 130K. The truck is still going strong.
  • I have a 2001 with 44k miles and Michelin LTX/MS tires. Between 55 and 60 MPH the truck bounces. The tires have been balanced but the problem remains. I am now in the process of switching my spare tire around to narrow down the problem. No luck so far. Let me know if you find the problem.
  • Board,
       I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake manifold.....toyota couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
       Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
       Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
        Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving

    /mike
  • Board,
       I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake manifold.....toyota couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
       Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
       Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
        Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving

    /mike
  • Hello All:
      I have a 2003 3.4, V6, 4x4, 5 speed. While traveling at highway speeds, if I have to brake hard the RPM's are delayed for up to 1.5 seconds before the idle starts to drop. This occurs with and without cruise control being on.
      I'd like to also note that my last truck was a T-100 with the 3.4 V6 engine - so I am very familiar with how this engine should respond.
      Dealer claims this a a computer problem and Toyota has not issued a TSB yet. Dealer also claims that this feature was added to reduce jerky feeling when shifting gears.
      The problem is a serious safety issue. When traveling at highway speeds, in an emergency, you can't afford to loose 1.5 secords of braking time.
      Additionally there is the added wear on your front disk brake pads due to the engine trying to maintain RPM while brakes are trying to stop the truck.
      If anyone has noticed this problem please notify your dealer and this list. To check your truck, next time you're cruising at 55 or 65 mph, note the RPM - then if you have to brake hard try to note if the RPM drops immediately or, hangs up for a second or two. Another way to check this is, while parked, race engine to 2500-3000 RPM then switch foot from gas to brake pedal. Note the RPM and engine sound. You will find the engine still maintaining that 2500-3000 RPM.
      Also, Dealer pointed out that unless there are more complaints, Toyota 'will not' do anything about this problem.

    If you'd like to respond directly, contact me at Mikel52686@aol.com.

    Thanks to all

    Mike
  • I have found the source of an irritating dash vibration in my '03 Tacoma. The bracket that holds the fuse block is essentially a "click beetle", like the childrens toy. If you press gently forward or back on the fuse block you will hear a pop. On mildly rough roads this becomes a maddening vibration, as some of you know. If you remove the fuse block you will find the noise can still be reproduced by pressing back and forth on the bracket. Tightening does no good. A full sized piece of shring tubing between the bracket and the kick wall does the trick. Just pop two holes in it for the bolts but don't pop a hole for the little positioning tab on the bracket. Let it create its own when you tighten the bolts. No more vibration. I felt the same relief when my tour in the army was over. What a great feeling.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I don't yet have my Taco, so I haven't seen the filter placement. However, you should NOT loosen the filter port fittings while under pressure. Check a suitable service manual. Generally (for most vehicles) the procedure calls for disconnecting the fuse or a connector for the fuel pump, then starting the engine and allowing it to run, consuming enough fuel to depressurize the system. When it kills, the pressure should be vented. Again, Research this first in a suitable service manual for the specific procedure. It also helps to leave the fuel cap off the tank filler while you're working since any positive change in temperature while you've got the line open will cause pressure in the tank to force fuel out of the open lines. After the filter is replaced and everything buttoned up, the procedures generally call for you to replace the filler cap, reconnect the fuse or connector, and turn the ignition to "on" (not start) for a few seconds, allowing fuel to circulate in the system. Then you can restart the engine.
  • coni1coni1 Posts: 3
    I am about to buy an 04 Tacoma 4x2. The dealer is suggesting that I buy the extended warranty up to 100,000k. Should I? Is it worth the value, or is it just a dealer's ploy to make $$$? Please advise ASAP - today is the day for the purchase.
  • I have a 2003 Tundra 8cyl 4wd 2,000 miles. Once the cold weather hit I started to notice an engine noise very much like stuck lifters. In low gear it is very noticeable. I brought it to my local Toyota Service, they said it was normal. Brought it back again and the service manager did not like the noise and called Toyota, Toyota said it's NORMAL.
    It sounds like I have a 10yr old truck with 150,000 miles.
    Anyone else have this problem?
  • I just purchased a 2003 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRO OFF ROAD with 4.7 V/8. I thought the limited slip came with the OFF ROAD PACKAGE but now I know it doesn't. What kind of costs am I looking at to have this done aftermarket.
  • Well, my 2001 Toyota Tundra Access SR5 V8 2WD is having some cold-weather problems. From last Winter, the squaeking dash problem has been fixed, but the newest cold-weather related problem is a loud squealing noise coming from the engine compartment.

    I have had this truck for 28-months and in that time put 40,134-miles on it, of which 95% are highway. Its my daily driver and I hardly use this vehicle as a pickup (telephone desk jockey). Yet, I am being told that as belts get old the dry, get hard, and are prone to slippage.

    Well, I don't live in a dry climate zone (Georgia) and I would not think this should occur after 28-months. The dealership (Toyota Mall of Georgia) service writer (Matt Askins) informed me on Saturday that his technician said this is typical and expected, especially on this engine.

    Yesterday, that dealership's service manager (Robert Acuff) said they 'dressed' the belts to stop the squealing, and when I picked it up it was about 54ºF. The problem reared its ugly head (and continues to) in temperatures in the 34-36ºF range. When i picked up the truck the belts were not making noise.

    When I left work last night (1AM this morning) the belt(s) squealed like I had gotten a cat (or two) in the engine compartment. I let the engine warm up before making the drive home. No dice. The squealing stayed quite loud and I drove 35-miles home in 34-36ºF weather at below the speed limit (all interstate travel in Atlanta).

    When I got home I woke the wife before even pulling into the driveway because the noise was easily heard. So, I took the vehicle back to the dealership (squealing) and was informed that the serpentine is probably the problem. I was also informed that this belt IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE DRIVETRAIN WARRANTY.

    Nice. So, I am looking at a good and healthy repair bill for a vehicle I've tried my best to take care of, always let the dealership do all of the accelerated srvice, use synthetic oils, etc., etc., etc. but this 28-month old truck will cost me several hundred dollars to repair unless there is some sort of good-will warranty that is available and employed at the descretion of the service manager.

    I already told them that I do not trust the belts, that I considered them haven failed prematurely, etc., and would not entertain driving the vehicle with the current belts in-place. I've offered on two occassions to let them take their time with the vehicle (I carpool some of the time) to resolve the problem.

    I suppose if I have to fork up the money to replace the belts (serpentine and all), I'll get rid of the vehicle and buy a non-Toyota product. I cannot believe this is how I am spending the holidays (problem started just before Xmas).
  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    I doubt that any manufacturer would cover a fanbelt replacement at 40k miles. They are a wear-related, maintenance item like brake pads, tires, and wiper blades.

    You might check your owner's manual to see if it lists a recommended replacement interval for the accessory drive belts. They may just list inspection intervals and "replace as required".
This discussion has been closed.