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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • I have had a dash board light go out behind the heating controls on the dash. Has anyone taken this center piece out? Does it just snap out? Is there anything to disconnect prior? I went to the dealer and they wanted to charge me $80 for this! Help.
  • kev00kev00 Posts: 1
    Pull the 3 control knobs off and remove 4 screws. (2 of which are above the air ducts) Then the face plate pulls off.
  • I'd love to have the OEM shop manuals for this truck. I bought them for my 97 Chevy S10, and I imagine I saved THOUSANDS of dollars for it... I also remember it took me a long time to find them, though.

    I looked at ebay and people say they are selling the OEM manuals, but they're selling them on a CD-ROM. I'd rather have a paper copy that I can flip through. Then I tried Google... too much information, and nothing seems to be what I want.

    So, dwbehrens, could you tell me where you got yours? Or, if you remember, which ebay seller sold you yours?
  • nneilnneil Posts: 2
    My Tundra double cab 4x4 off road suspension has a squeak in the rear suspension whenever I go over any bumps. The dealer tried once to fix, and it's going back again wednesday. Any one having this problem.

    Besides this problem I love my tundra, test drove the ford new 150, and nissan titan. Interior and quality totally rocked in the tundra, especially for the price difference.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    I've changed the oil on my Tundra twice now and each time it has been a mess when replacing the filter. There is a skid plate under the engine compartment that prevents me from getting the filer out from underneath and having a drain pan under it. Instead oil dumps onto the top of the skid plate and runs down it and makes a big mess. I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this. Do you remove the skid plate? I have a Limited so there is a decorative skid plate that I would have to remove before removing the real skid plate. Any suggestions? Last night I tried putting a small tub underthe filter on top of the skid plate, but getting it out afterwards was a pain!
  • dust90dust90 Posts: 169
    Yes, I always removed the skid plate on my Tundra, as well as my current Tacoma. Not really that difficult considering the mess that it prevents.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    My problem removing the skid plate is the stainless skid plate attached to the bumper interferes with removing the front three bolts on the skid plate. I'll need to find some sort of angle attachment for my socket wrench to get past the stainless skid plate.
  • alfredalfred Posts: 1
    Hello I would like to chat in order to compare transmission problems since I am have had chunking noise while stop at signal light. I took to dealer which their reply was no simular complaints, and also stated it was normal. After taking it back several times, the dealer decided to apply grease to drive shaft which seemed to fix the problem, but after three months the problem is back. I have not even mentioned the brake pads, nor the oxygen sensor headaches.
  • stumpystumpy Posts: 1
    My 2000 Tundra has an occasional "chunking noise" with stops, but it hasn't bothered me or seemed to affect performance. I have had problems with the O2 sensors--one replaced about a year ago, and about a month ago, discovered another is now bad (and the warranty just expired!). Can I ignore this, or will it come back to haunt me?
  • I have read somewhere that it will blow out the catalytic convertor.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    Where do I find the cabin air filter on my 2003 Tundra? I've read about it in my owner's manual but it doesn't say where to find it! Any help would be great
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I find the ride of my 04 Taco pretty good- for a mid-size truck w/ large wheels. The heavier the tire/wheel assembly, and "unsprung" portion of the suspension (axles, etc.) in comparison to the rest of the vehicle, the rougher (or bouncier, depending on shocks) the ride will be. If the wheels could be zero mass, and the truck chasis very heavy, the wheels would just move up and down individually over each bump without you being able to feel a thing. By the time the impulse of the spring on one corner would begin to accelerate the body upward, the impulse would be gone.

    So, lighter wheels and tires will give you some help w/ overall ride quality. Changes in Shocks will mostly trade bounce for jarring, or somewhere inbtwn to some extent. Cheapest change is probably to add eight large sacks of sand to the cargo box, and maybe 1 or 2 behind each front seat.
  • rjs1rjs1 Posts: 1
    Have a Tundra 2003 since Feb. 03. About three weeks ago started having problems filling gas tank. Takes about 20 min to pump 10 gallons. Had it back to the dealer three times. They replaced the carbon canister and still same problem. Had it back yesterday and was told that the check valve in the gas tank is bad??? maybe. They are replacing the gas tank next week because the check valve is part of the tank. Seems odd that the first time I had the trunk in they supposely removed and checked the check valve located at the bottom of the fill tube now seems it is part of the tank and have to replace the tank. Just wondering if anyone else has heard or has had the problem.
  • js2004js2004 Posts: 2
    I just took my '03 4x4 Access Cab in to the dealer because my truck has a squeak in the right rear whenever I go over bumps. All they did was lubed the rear slip yoke on the drive shaft and cleaned it. Driving home, it still did the same thing. I haven't called or taken it back yet. I've been searching the internet to see if anyone has the same problem and any solution. I've seen a few people with the same problem. Has anyone found a solution yet?
  • ata3001ata3001 Posts: 30
    I thought this was a Tacoma forum!
  • bambambambam Posts: 1
    I broke the rear side window latch and am trying to replace it. A service manager at the dealership said the door panel was held together with a interlocking sort of connection, while a manual I read said it was fastened to the door with clips. I just want to take the inside door panel off and replace the dumb thing. Any advice I could get about removing the door panel would be great.

    Thanks,
    B
  • whatnow2whatnow2 Posts: 24
    My 2001 Tacoma X-cab has what appears to be a continuous rubber weatherstrip around the driver's door. A small (about 2-inch) part has become torn (shredded really) at the bottom, apparently due to a shoe or boot scraping over it entering or leaving the truck. How big a problem is this, and has anyone tried to replace one of these?

    I still have one month on warranty, but hesitate to ask Toyota to replace it since it is obviously owner-caused "damage."
  • rgossrgoss Posts: 1
    I recently purchsed an 01' tacoma v-6, auto, ext. cab, and i've read several comments in reference to dash rattles and noises. I have found a very inexpensive and easy solution to the problem with out the dealer run around. I found that a section of 1/2" round window foam sealer from the local home improvement store does wonders. It is sometimes called caulk saver. All i needed to do was to cut a section the length of the window base that fit between the front window and the dash, and then lightly press it into that gap with a plastic putty knife and/or a wooden paint stir stick. I am rattle free now! And if you have a gray interior it matches very well!
  • mtranchermtrancher Posts: 1
    Just bought an 04 Tacoma 4wd xtra cab 2.7 manual to run around in and save the diesel from getting beaten up on our "roads". Love the truck, but the dinger that alerts me to the key in the ignition has got to go. It is fused with the dome light, so can't go that route. Any one know how to disable it, and where it is exactly? I know it's near the fuse panel in the cab. Thanks for any help.
  • toyboy1toyboy1 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Tundra....I HAD the same problem: oil mess!! I did a little engineering. I purchased an adjustable circle cutting bit from Sears and cut a 5" diameter hole in the skid plate directly under the oil filter. Then I used a bracket and stainless steel bolt system to bolt the 5" disk to the skid plate. The only thing that can be seen is an outline of the circle and three bolts with thumb nuts. Now when changing the oil...I remove two thumb nuts..remove the 5" disk w/bracket, and simply reach thru the hole to unscrew the oil filter. What a time saver without all the mess. CAUTION....the skid plate is thick fiberglass...caution when cutting with this adjustable bit...in addition the fiber glass fibers can be quite painful!
  • footpoundsfootpounds Posts: 22
    The Tundra has FIBERGLASS skid plates? I was surprised to read that. I have a Tacoma which has steel skid plates but I guess fiberglass would be fine for light duty protection.
  • Bought my 02' a few months ago and have had a few squeaks and rattles, took it to the dealership yesterday, appears to be a recall on several areas of the dash, downside is they already have had it 1 1/2 days and will not get it back for a couple more.
  • I bought my 02'SR5 XCab 4x4 about 3 months ago and am dealing with the squeaky dash and leafsprings. Found out about the bulliten from the dealership, but they told me the same deal about the springs being dirty, any fix yet??

    Thanks,
  • My black 2000 Tundra paint has three dime-size "chips" on the roof. I originally noticed the first one at about a year, the second one a tad later and the latest chip I noticed this weekend when I was waxing it. A Toy salesman told me a couple weeks ago that it was covered under a long warranty for the paint - something like five years or more? What has anybody here heard - and can I get more information?

    I originally bought some touch up paint and fixed the first two - though one of those is now showing through again...and now the third one is there. So before I go through the process of gently applying touch up, I'd like to know if there's any kind of recall or TSB to address this.
  • I have an 04 tundra that makes a grinding sound when I shift on the fly around 30-40 mph. is this normal? the dealership claims that they cannot find a problem and NEVER shift on the fly. The owner manual says I can....
  • yes, they do have a 5 year paint warranty. i'd contact the dealer about the problem.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I believe you'll find that the 5 yr. paint warranty requires "perforation", which means that the thing has to rust THRU!

    However, imperfections, peeling, etc. are normally covered under the shorter "regular" warranty. Get it DOCUMENTED and taken care of asap. Keep documentation which may be needed later if a wide-spread "silent recall" or full-blown recall is issued.
  • I went to see the dealer service dept and the manager looked at it - agreed it didn't look right. Said he thought it looked like some kind of tree acid trying to eat into it - I've never parked it under a tree long term. Told him I have the "toyoguard" on it and that shouldn't be susceptible to tree acid in either case. It's only 4 years old. I told him I owned a 4Runner for ten years and it never parked in a garage - and the paint on it was flawless the day I sold it. He referred me to the body shop manager...

    Talked to the ASSISTANT at the body shop who agreed it was probably acid rain causing it... I told him it's a pretty sad testament to Toyota quality that acid RAIN is eating my paint after just four years. And why only the roof? Why not the hood or any other surfaces? He said he'd have to refer the case to the body shop manager who's out of town until Thursday... so this is going to have to be continued... But he did say the 5 year warranty only covers perforation - not the little spots I have. The general warranty IS expired, but he said this may be a case of poor workmanship, in which case they sometimes make exceptions and we'll just have to see what they can do for me.

    To put it in perspective, though, these are not huge obvious spots - I only notice them when waxing the roof. They're roughly pencil eraser to dime size - two in all and looks like another forming. They're not chips or the result of anything hitting the roof - it's obvious when you look at it. I'd just like to get it fixed for free if I can - else I'll be daubing on the touch up paint forever!
  • newellnewell Posts: 15
    I have a 2004 Tundra double cab. I too have the same squeak coming from the right rear going over bumps!!!! I took it to the dealer last mont @ 5K check and mentioned the squeak problem. You'll love their solution. The sprayed or painted oil over all the suspension members and it still SQUEAKS!!!!!!!!! Looking forward to next dealer visit.
                  Mark/Cape Cod
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    "They sprayed or painted oil all over the suspension members..."

    What did you expect? An engineering analysis evaluating your rear suspension? I must agree that this type of "fix" is ridiculous. Suspension squeaks are typically caused by faulty or missing bushings or defective shocks. I wonder if they would use the "oil" trick on your interior plastic trim pieces if you had a squeak there.
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