Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions



  • My 2000 V8 Tundra has about 36K miles and running fine. The problem that I have is with the Engine check warning light staying ON. Once the battery is removed and reconnected, this Engine check will be off for a day or two. Manual said bring the car to the dealer. Engine oil, Transmission fluid, Coolant temperature are all OK. Truck is running normally with no extra fuel consumption. Any suggestions?
  • I have the above w/automatic. I have <4000 miles and have experienced the clunking as described by alko. I took it back to the dealer at 75 miles and they said 'no problem'. This was in Orlando, Fl. Now, I am in Tucson and took it to a dealer today. I was told that this is 'characteristic of all AT Tacomas'. It has nothing to do with the tranny, but is movement of the rear end. They said the problem doesn't exist with the manual tranny. I wonder why this 'characteristic' wasn't disclosed prior to the sale.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Don't know if they have them where you live, but if you go to an AutoZone auto parts store, they will read your check engine code for free and get essentially the same info. When they tell you what the reading is you can proceed from there with more knowledge about what may be wrong.

    This is what we did with my fiancee's car, a 1996 Ford Contour, and believe me the light came on often. It was supposedly the EGR valve, so we replaced that. The light came on again but now it's off (I hope for good). Next time we'll buy a Toyota that will last like my truck which has 182,200+ miles on it!!

    Good luck with your truck.
  • I had a 2001 Tundra truck and had replaced the brake system completely 3 times. (I was 1 of 10 people who had the problem)After hearing the horror stories from "tundra solutions" about everyone and their brake problems and then having th dealer tell me that the brake problem was going to be my expense after the warranty ran out, which was in 4,000 miles I dumped the truck. Now I have my second Subaru Outback, but this one is the H6 version and after 7,000 miles it's brakes warped as well. On the edmunds subaru site numerous owners have complained about the same problem. I think there is a problem with the brake industry in general.
  • gee1gee1 Posts: 1
    My husband had a problem with his ck eng lite on his 2001 Tundra. It took many times into the dealership for service. It was an 02 sensor apparently there are 4 and the one that it turn out to be #4 was jammed in there but the got it out and replaced it havent had a problem since. We now have a very loud squeaky brake problem when he backs anyone have this problem?
  • I purchased a used 2001 Prerunner (6cyl)with 47K miles and a new set of 4 Continental Sportiva P265/70/16. Had a vibration from the floorboard through the steering wheel from 56 to 66 MPH. Dealer has had the truck in 3 seperate occasions and says the tires are balanced. I took the truck too 2 tire dealers and paid to have them check the balance. They have all said the same thing, the tires are balanced, but when I take them for a test drive showing the vibration has not left, they tell me it must be the tires. The dealership has what they call a road force balancer and according to them it can tell them if the tires are bad, problem rims, etc. Their machine says everything is ok? I was told by one of the Toyota mechanics that the 6cyl. motor is not balanced very well and that may be the problem? From talking to several other mechanics, it could be the driveshaft, ball joints and/or the rims. Before I purchase 4 new tires,has anyone else has had this problem, and if so how was it resolved?
  • My 00 Tundra light came on in 03 at just under 30,000 miles. 45 minutes at the dealer to replace an O2 sensor and no charge to me.
  • Hello all. I'm coming up on 30k miles in my 2.7 ltr. 2001 4x4 Tacoma. So far, I've kept up with oil changes (every 5k), Tire rotations, and changed my air cleaning filter back around 16k (give or take). Everything seems to be running fine. Should I consider any fluid/oil flushes of any other maintenance at 30k or if it ain't broke, I shouldn't try and fix it?
  • Preventive Maintenance is always a good thing. Most cars that have the 30K flush I call it, age very well. My wifes 95 Corolla is a good example which currently has 147K. However, I had one of the first 2.7 engines in a 94 T100. I did my first maintenance around 60K and my friend (who bought it) has done it at 130K. The truck is still going strong.
  • I have a 2001 with 44k miles and Michelin LTX/MS tires. Between 55 and 60 MPH the truck bounces. The tires have been balanced but the problem remains. I am now in the process of switching my spare tire around to narrow down the problem. No luck so far. Let me know if you find the problem.
  • Board,
       I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
       Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
       Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
        Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving

  • Board,
       I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
       Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
       Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
        Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving

  • Hello All:
      I have a 2003 3.4, V6, 4x4, 5 speed. While traveling at highway speeds, if I have to brake hard the RPM's are delayed for up to 1.5 seconds before the idle starts to drop. This occurs with and without cruise control being on.
      I'd like to also note that my last truck was a T-100 with the 3.4 V6 engine - so I am very familiar with how this engine should respond.
      Dealer claims this a a computer problem and Toyota has not issued a TSB yet. Dealer also claims that this feature was added to reduce jerky feeling when shifting gears.
      The problem is a serious safety issue. When traveling at highway speeds, in an emergency, you can't afford to loose 1.5 secords of braking time.
      Additionally there is the added wear on your front disk brake pads due to the engine trying to maintain RPM while brakes are trying to stop the truck.
      If anyone has noticed this problem please notify your dealer and this list. To check your truck, next time you're cruising at 55 or 65 mph, note the RPM - then if you have to brake hard try to note if the RPM drops immediately or, hangs up for a second or two. Another way to check this is, while parked, race engine to 2500-3000 RPM then switch foot from gas to brake pedal. Note the RPM and engine sound. You will find the engine still maintaining that 2500-3000 RPM.
      Also, Dealer pointed out that unless there are more complaints, Toyota 'will not' do anything about this problem.

    If you'd like to respond directly, contact me at

    Thanks to all

  • I have found the source of an irritating dash vibration in my '03 Tacoma. The bracket that holds the fuse block is essentially a "click beetle", like the childrens toy. If you press gently forward or back on the fuse block you will hear a pop. On mildly rough roads this becomes a maddening vibration, as some of you know. If you remove the fuse block you will find the noise can still be reproduced by pressing back and forth on the bracket. Tightening does no good. A full sized piece of shring tubing between the bracket and the kick wall does the trick. Just pop two holes in it for the bolts but don't pop a hole for the little positioning tab on the bracket. Let it create its own when you tighten the bolts. No more vibration. I felt the same relief when my tour in the army was over. What a great feeling.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    I don't yet have my Taco, so I haven't seen the filter placement. However, you should NOT loosen the filter port fittings while under pressure. Check a suitable service manual. Generally (for most vehicles) the procedure calls for disconnecting the fuse or a connector for the fuel pump, then starting the engine and allowing it to run, consuming enough fuel to depressurize the system. When it kills, the pressure should be vented. Again, Research this first in a suitable service manual for the specific procedure. It also helps to leave the fuel cap off the tank filler while you're working since any positive change in temperature while you've got the line open will cause pressure in the tank to force fuel out of the open lines. After the filter is replaced and everything buttoned up, the procedures generally call for you to replace the filler cap, reconnect the fuse or connector, and turn the ignition to "on" (not start) for a few seconds, allowing fuel to circulate in the system. Then you can restart the engine.
  • coni1coni1 Posts: 3
    I am about to buy an 04 Tacoma 4x2. The dealer is suggesting that I buy the extended warranty up to 100,000k. Should I? Is it worth the value, or is it just a dealer's ploy to make $$$? Please advise ASAP - today is the day for the purchase.
  • I have a 2003 Tundra 8cyl 4wd 2,000 miles. Once the cold weather hit I started to notice an engine noise very much like stuck lifters. In low gear it is very noticeable. I brought it to my local Toyota Service, they said it was normal. Brought it back again and the service manager did not like the noise and called Toyota, Toyota said it's NORMAL.
    It sounds like I have a 10yr old truck with 150,000 miles.
    Anyone else have this problem?
  • I just purchased a 2003 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRO OFF ROAD with 4.7 V/8. I thought the limited slip came with the OFF ROAD PACKAGE but now I know it doesn't. What kind of costs am I looking at to have this done aftermarket.
  • Well, my 2001 Toyota Tundra Access SR5 V8 2WD is having some cold-weather problems. From last Winter, the squaeking dash problem has been fixed, but the newest cold-weather related problem is a loud squealing noise coming from the engine compartment.

    I have had this truck for 28-months and in that time put 40,134-miles on it, of which 95% are highway. Its my daily driver and I hardly use this vehicle as a pickup (telephone desk jockey). Yet, I am being told that as belts get old the dry, get hard, and are prone to slippage.

    Well, I don't live in a dry climate zone (Georgia) and I would not think this should occur after 28-months. The dealership (Toyota Mall of Georgia) service writer (Matt Askins) informed me on Saturday that his technician said this is typical and expected, especially on this engine.

    Yesterday, that dealership's service manager (Robert Acuff) said they 'dressed' the belts to stop the squealing, and when I picked it up it was about 54ºF. The problem reared its ugly head (and continues to) in temperatures in the 34-36ºF range. When i picked up the truck the belts were not making noise.

    When I left work last night (1AM this morning) the belt(s) squealed like I had gotten a cat (or two) in the engine compartment. I let the engine warm up before making the drive home. No dice. The squealing stayed quite loud and I drove 35-miles home in 34-36ºF weather at below the speed limit (all interstate travel in Atlanta).

    When I got home I woke the wife before even pulling into the driveway because the noise was easily heard. So, I took the vehicle back to the dealership (squealing) and was informed that the serpentine is probably the problem. I was also informed that this belt IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE DRIVETRAIN WARRANTY.

    Nice. So, I am looking at a good and healthy repair bill for a vehicle I've tried my best to take care of, always let the dealership do all of the accelerated srvice, use synthetic oils, etc., etc., etc. but this 28-month old truck will cost me several hundred dollars to repair unless there is some sort of good-will warranty that is available and employed at the descretion of the service manager.

    I already told them that I do not trust the belts, that I considered them haven failed prematurely, etc., and would not entertain driving the vehicle with the current belts in-place. I've offered on two occassions to let them take their time with the vehicle (I carpool some of the time) to resolve the problem.

    I suppose if I have to fork up the money to replace the belts (serpentine and all), I'll get rid of the vehicle and buy a non-Toyota product. I cannot believe this is how I am spending the holidays (problem started just before Xmas).
  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    I doubt that any manufacturer would cover a fanbelt replacement at 40k miles. They are a wear-related, maintenance item like brake pads, tires, and wiper blades.

    You might check your owner's manual to see if it lists a recommended replacement interval for the accessory drive belts. They may just list inspection intervals and "replace as required".
This discussion has been closed.