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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • I'm thinking about buying a new 2004 Tacoma ExtraCab 6 Cyliner 4WD Pickup. I've been driving a F250 Diesel since 1990 and am looking forward to something smaller. My questions are, what kind of mileage should I get and how are these vehicles for towing a small (17 ft) trailer.
  • I drive about 28 miles one way to work each day, mostly highway miles. I get about 16.5 mpg
  • I have a 2001 extracab tacoma v6 with manual 5 speed. I have gradually inceasing gas milage till now I get 17 in town and 21 highway. it pays to check it regularly if you want actual numbers.
  • I have a 2001 Tundra Limited with 66,000 miles and am experiencing a very weird brake problem. The problem is sporadic - at expressway speeds of 70-75mph it feels as if my ABS is engaging. The vehicle slows and when I pull to the shoulder and apply the brakes the whole front end shakes as well as the steering wheel. I can feel the front brakes engaging and disengaging just like an ABS stop on icy or wet pavement. After stopping for a moment or two I can reenter the freeway and continue on my way. Problem may re occur one more time as soon as I enter the freeway. Once I pull over again and reenter the freeway the problem disappears. Does this sporadically. Dealership has been unable to duplicate the problem and tells me everything is fine with my brakes. I have had the vehicle looked at by two different Toyota dealerships. My feeling is that there is a problem with an ABS sensor. I have contacted Toyota Customer Support and am waiting for a return call. Anybody have any suggestions.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    Check the Ownership section on this site. I found several Technical Service BUlletins on the Tundra related to the front brakes.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    Is anyone familiar with the spark plugs on the V8 Tundra Engine? I believe it is the 2UV-FE Engine. I have a 2003 and the manual says there are spark plugs but when I look at the engine, where the spark plugs should be there are flat rectangular black caps. The caps have a bolt holding them down adn there is a four pin connector attached. Following this wire to the harness, I find that the other 7 similar caps lead to the same harness and the harness goes in a large black cover on the front of the drivers side valve cover. So I assume these rectangular caps are the spark plug covers and the black cover on the front of the valve cover is the distributor, but this leaves me with one issue. Why four wires leading to the spark plug and why are they so small? Normally spark plug cables are much thicker due to the high voltage.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    Found an answer somewhere else for a 2000 Tundra. I assume it is the same.

    They are located under each coil boot...Instead of one ignition coil like in older vehicles...each spark plug has its own coil boot.
  • spydspyd Posts: 3
    Hey all. I have an 2001 Tacoma DC, I'm quickly reaching 50K miles and need to change all 4 tires, 5 with the spare. But I'm also thinking about trying to improve the ride quality by changing the shocks and struts, the ride is just a little too bouncy for me as an everyday driver. My questions are:
     1. If changing the shocks and struts, along with new tires are enough to improve the ride, or is it there not going to be much difference?
     2. Is there a particular brand/make I should be looking for?
     3. Should I just get my tires changed and the 50K mile service, and save the money for the Scion tC for the "better" ride?

    Thanx in advance
    Spyd
  • dwbehrensdwbehrens Posts: 15
    To Questions 155 - 156...

    These are called power packs, covering iridium electrode plugs. The is no distributor, the computer does it all. The four wires charge a small ignition coil for each plug, and communicate from the computer to a transistor switch in the power pack which discharges the secondary (high voltage) side of the coil to the plug.

    To Question #140...

    Buy an OBD II diagnostic tester for about $150 on Ebay along with the Toyota Shop Manual($200). The two will pay for themselves if they save you two trips to the dealer's shop. The OBD II will work on any car made after '95, so you can use it for your other cars and your buddies cars too.
  • reedfwareedfwa Posts: 1
    I have a 93 pickup with the automatic transmission shift on the steering column. The transmission will not come out of park. The owners manual does not say where the lock release is located for a column shift. Does anyone know how to get this sucker into drive so I can get it to the repair shop? The dealer has no clue.
    All the fuses are okay.
  • I have had a dash board light go out behind the heating controls on the dash. Has anyone taken this center piece out? Does it just snap out? Is there anything to disconnect prior? I went to the dealer and they wanted to charge me $80 for this! Help.
  • kev00kev00 Posts: 1
    Pull the 3 control knobs off and remove 4 screws. (2 of which are above the air ducts) Then the face plate pulls off.
  • I'd love to have the OEM shop manuals for this truck. I bought them for my 97 Chevy S10, and I imagine I saved THOUSANDS of dollars for it... I also remember it took me a long time to find them, though.

    I looked at ebay and people say they are selling the OEM manuals, but they're selling them on a CD-ROM. I'd rather have a paper copy that I can flip through. Then I tried Google... too much information, and nothing seems to be what I want.

    So, dwbehrens, could you tell me where you got yours? Or, if you remember, which ebay seller sold you yours?
  • nneilnneil Posts: 2
    My Tundra double cab 4x4 off road suspension has a squeak in the rear suspension whenever I go over any bumps. The dealer tried once to fix, and it's going back again wednesday. Any one having this problem.

    Besides this problem I love my tundra, test drove the ford new 150, and nissan titan. Interior and quality totally rocked in the tundra, especially for the price difference.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    I've changed the oil on my Tundra twice now and each time it has been a mess when replacing the filter. There is a skid plate under the engine compartment that prevents me from getting the filer out from underneath and having a drain pan under it. Instead oil dumps onto the top of the skid plate and runs down it and makes a big mess. I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this. Do you remove the skid plate? I have a Limited so there is a decorative skid plate that I would have to remove before removing the real skid plate. Any suggestions? Last night I tried putting a small tub underthe filter on top of the skid plate, but getting it out afterwards was a pain!
  • dust90dust90 Posts: 169
    Yes, I always removed the skid plate on my Tundra, as well as my current Tacoma. Not really that difficult considering the mess that it prevents.
  • ageylingageyling Posts: 16
    My problem removing the skid plate is the stainless skid plate attached to the bumper interferes with removing the front three bolts on the skid plate. I'll need to find some sort of angle attachment for my socket wrench to get past the stainless skid plate.
  • alfredalfred Posts: 1
    Hello I would like to chat in order to compare transmission problems since I am have had chunking noise while stop at signal light. I took to dealer which their reply was no simular complaints, and also stated it was normal. After taking it back several times, the dealer decided to apply grease to drive shaft which seemed to fix the problem, but after three months the problem is back. I have not even mentioned the brake pads, nor the oxygen sensor headaches.
  • stumpystumpy Posts: 1
    My 2000 Tundra has an occasional "chunking noise" with stops, but it hasn't bothered me or seemed to affect performance. I have had problems with the O2 sensors--one replaced about a year ago, and about a month ago, discovered another is now bad (and the warranty just expired!). Can I ignore this, or will it come back to haunt me?
  • I have read somewhere that it will blow out the catalytic convertor.
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