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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • djm79djm79 Posts: 1
    I've got the exact same problem. My 2000 Tundra

    had the same symptoms over Christmas (check engine light on; accelerator wouldn't function).

    Problem went away after I restarted the engine and it warmed up (I chalked the problem up to the cold weather).

    Yesterday the check engine light came on again. Toyota says I need a new O2 sensor (again), but it's covered under warranty. Plus, they want $1,200 to replace the throttle body. This item is specificially excluded from the extended warranty that I bought. Yesterday, the vehicle had no accelerator problems; only the check engine light was on.

    Is the accelerator problem just a cold weather issue? I live in Texas so don't know if I should fix it or take my chances driving it.
  • '03 Tacoma with a water leak on drivers side. I have had these before in Chevrolets and Plymouths, but never in a Toyota. I have owned Toyotas since 1984.

     

    The problem centers around the driver's side floor board which pools up with water. This happened overnight while the truck sat in a driving rain storm. I could not feel any water under the dashboard, so I am thinking it is entering the cab somewhere up the firewall and trickling down under the carpet. We have been deluged in rain and this IS the first time I have had a problem.

     

    B
  • Which Anti-freeze should I use to top off my 2003 Tundra V-8?
  • How do i get the fog lights to stay on any time I flip the switch instead of just when the low beams are on? Someone did refere me to a web site from a Dr. from Az., but that web site does not work.
  • During a recent bout of nasty weather, I drove around for several days with the hubs engaged in 2WD, in case I hit any nasty spots and needed the extra traction. Tonight as I'm pulling out from work, I notice a scrape-scrape-scrape noise coming from the left front wheel. I immeadiately pulled over and checked to see if I had a rock rubbing the brake disk or something, and found that my left hub was disengaged. I went around and disengaged the right hub, then got back in and drove a bit more. The scraping sound continued. I re-engaged both hubs and the noise went away. Does anyone have any ideas on what's happened?

     

    Thanks!
  • My daughter has a '98 Toyota RAV4 and my wife has an '00 RAV4. Both cars often have tiny flecks of alum. on the end of the oil dipstick when I check the oil. It appears that the metal is from the dipstick rubbing against the tube end. Anyone else seen this?
  • pilot130pilot130 Posts: 319
    Particles of aluminium on a dipstick (made of steel and within a steel tube, BTW) could be a sign of impending trouble.

    Is it known to be aluminium? A magnet will answer that question quickly. If they are ferrous and attracted to the magnet, you might have problems.

    One sure way to find out if your engine is "Making Metal" would be to remove the oil filter, cut it open, and examine the filter media with a magnifying glass.

    If you find any particles big enough to see a serial no., this is bad news. (Just kidding--any sized particles in sufficient quantity is cause for concern)

    Another good idea is to get an oil analysis. It will also tell you what the metal is, and thus indicate what the problem is likely to be.
  • Just received my 1993 SR5 4x4 extended cab toyota truck from dealership today. Truck is manual drive, 3.0l V6 w/ K/N filter upgrade modification. Truck was serviced for a total of 16 days with two seperate issues. #1 (critical) truck was intermittently loping(stalled) out of first gear leaving me at times stranded in middle of intersections. #2(minor) erratic high idle mostly during early morning warm-up. The first day of diagnostic they found a tear to the air intake hose $81.00(hose which connects to throttle body) and an off idle reading suspect the $103.00 throttle position sensor was bad. Master tech could not continue troubleshoot unless these two part were replaced. I authorized replacement of parts but severely question the TPS as suspect for high idling. After replacement of parts the truck high idle was 75% contained and no information feedback for the #1 issue loping(loss of power). At one weeks end, they had three of their top master techs working on the intermittent problem. Periodically throughout the day for two weeks they would test drive my truck for repeatability with the following results. Truck failed 5 seperate times for loping or loss of power while shifting out of first gear. Occurred one time when master tech drove my truck to his home(approx 33 miles) but was ok when returning to work the next morning. The master tech suspected a bad air flow meter and swapped it with the one on his 2004 toyota 4-runner. Drove his 4-runner home and back with no issues. Re-installed my flow meter back into my truck. Periodically test drove the truck for the next several days with truck stalling just 4 seperate times. At this time they had no clue and or the root cause for #1 problem. I personally stopped by to test drive and also to see for myself how much progress they were actually making. I couldn't get the truck to act-up but felt that the idling was still an issue. On the 14th day the master tech could get the truck to lope consistently so in doing so he installed a break-out box. Feedback data from meter box showed erratic coolant temperature sensor at around 195 degrees and would drop to a low 40 degrees. Recommended replacing the $64.94 coolant temperature sensor and with my approval this was done. After replacing the sensor, the break-out box data gave passing data results and the service team consider my truck finally fixed. Picked up my truck today and still notice the idling was erratic but no sense of loping or loss of power while shifting gears. Total cost parts and labor was $676.94. Not to bad considering all the time spent troubleshooting. I will need to drive my truck more frequently to provide more feedback to you all as to the condition of my truck including the idling issue. So my personal answer to your question asked earlier "Could it be my throttle position sensor?. I personally think replacing the TPS on my truck has made a idle improvement. The TPS is adjustable. Adjusting should been done first along with data testing to see if TPS is a faulty component. None of this was done so I'm leaving this TPS to repair my idle problem an open with the dealership. I hope this message helps those of you with similar problems and with one last thought when dealing with the dealership service team we all need to be firm as possible during the duration of any type of service. I personally was able to catch many types different situations were I either would have been charged more for total repairs or the decision making for what is needed for in the customer best interest. Good luck
  • newellnewell Posts: 15
    Repair kit is large rubber cone washers installed against metal shock washers.
  • coochcooch Posts: 8
    Have 2005 Taco.......4 cyl, 4X4, ............ I hate the black holes in bumper.......Can I add fog lights? Where? Cost? Any help appreciated

    Cooch
  • Jesse,

          Thanks for your posting, I thought I was hearing things for the first year of owning my 2003 Tundra LTD 4WD V8 and the dealer kept giving me a lot of B.S. about it. Such as not being able to reproduce the sound or they couldn't hear it due to the wind noise coming from my roof racks and the finally the one that one caused me to yell and scream at the morons at the service dept. was they found my tires to be under inflated. They even claimed to have test driven the truck and had solved the problem. Needless to say, when I picked up the truck the next day, it still had the same issue. Even more concerning was the fact that my odometer had not even moved a Mile. I wish I had written the mileage down to the tenth but the dealer notes it on the work order only to the mile. They claimed that they only drove it up and down the block and conceivably went less than a mile. That was enough for me to go off the handle and a start yelling at them for lying to me and avoiding the issue. I couldn't believe they had the nerve to defend their diagnosis of low tire pressure after bringing the truck in for 3 times over a year with the same complaint. After the first time I realized I had to leave it there overnight and that became an inconvienance even though I have an extra car that I drive every day and use the truck mostly for long trips and Home Depot runs. Well eventually, I took one of their senior mechanics for a test drive with me. He happened to own two Tundras and took me seriously. Knowing a lot about auto mechanics I understood that intermittent problems like this can be difficult to diagnose and I was not expecting a miracle. The mechanic agreed it was from the front dive train but found no TSB on it. He did report it to regional Service dude (don't remember his official title) and they noted on my service record so I would be covered if something became of this after warranty. That was really all I was hoping for outside of a quick solution like a bearing replacement or extra lube. The mechanic whose name I should mention was "Kippy" according to his shirt, recalled the exact symptoms coming from an older version of the 4runner that used a brass (might have been bronze) bushing at the end of the front shafts. Well the dissimilar metals were affected by temperature differently but once it warmed up they were fine. The Tundras use a completely different drive train. The solution Toyota came up with was to create some special grease tool to lube the bushing. Anyhow, it was good to finally get somone to take me seriously. I was also told that it would be reported to Toyota engineering and I mentioned that I found several posts on the net of Tundra owners with the same problem. I told Kippy about the efforts you made to narrow down the source of the noise (which is really more of a vibration - during my test drive it was the first time I was passanger in my truck and I had a hard time noticing it but when you're driving you certainly can feel it). I was going to do the same until I read you post.

    It was disappointing to be treated like that by a Toyota dealer. I would expect it from a local gas station but the dealer I take my two new Toyotas for service. When I took my tundra in after a year for an inspection I brought my wife with me and ended up with a 2004 Camry XLE V6 for her. Overall love both my new Toyotas but stay on top of the dealer and let me know if they find a soloution for the Tundra issue.
  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    Hey guys, stick in a paragraph every now & than, ok? Just hit the enter key twice.

     

    And you'll space down just like this. It makes those long posts so much easier to read. Thanks and good luck with your Toyotas.

     

    james
  • Day before yesterday I got the exact and same symptoms on my 2000 Tundra. Check Engine light along with gas pedal which didn't work. Code revealed bad Throttle Body. Anyway, went to an honest shop which charged me $249.50 (69.99 for diagnostics and the remainder to have work done on throttle Body)

     Mechanic said it was only dirty then cleaned it. When I got back to my job site, two co-workers told me that its very simple to do and it could be done by anybody. They've cleaned their's and they'd show me how. Needless to say I felt ripped off. (wonder if it was an honest shop now)

    Which brings me to my point; are we the consumer being ripped-off when it comes to throttle body issues. Could this be another "green-machine" for Toyota? What do ya'll think?

     

    Texas Tony
  • I received a letter (appears to be mass mailing)giving procedures for O2 Sensor complaint. They wanted receipts (with mileage by repair center)showing when and how much you paid to have them removed and replaced. I provided them with two receipts for two sensors. One was at about 47K, the other 53K.

      Less than three weeks later I received a check from them for the full price of both sensors plus labor. Exactly what I paid for both, plus tax.

      The secret: be able to produce legible & authentic receipts!
  • Just got home from the dealer. The repair kit for the Chirp or squeak in Tundra trucks is now four metal lock nuts. The Service Manager said the Service Bulletin and field fix was revised since 12/24/04. I will post a message once the repair is made and advice if it works.
  • The repair kit is now 4 metal lock nuts.
  • Here is an e-mail from 2/3/05 by my Toyota Service Manager, "TSB SU003-04 involves turning over an existing shock bushing retainer and installing two new shock nuts. The retainer was installed incorrectly at the factory. The procedure is very simple - we have performed it several times. 30 minutes is adequate to do the job. This is the only current TSB for the shock squeak on 2004 Tundras."
  • 22RE engine stalls out completely for 2-5 seconds when accelerating or climbing. Engine runs great at any rpm when out of gear. Transmission must be engaged and loading the engine to see this problem.

    This was sporadic, but now I can count on it whenever I hit the gas.

    New fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, ig. coil, and timing chain.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated!
  • I have an 05 Tundra double cab and just noticed the same thing over the weekend. We also had a huge storm here in So Cal. Went out to the truck and noticed on the drivers side, The rear door sill and carpet is wet. Seals around the door look in good shape I did not see any thing wrong in anyway. Any suggestion on were the water may be coming from. Has anybody heard anything from Toyota?

    Curtmann in So Cal.
  • wanting to install buckets seats in my 93 toyota truck. 22r 5 speed. any pointers as to what seat would work best
  • I have just recently syarted following this forum after trading in my Sienna for a 2004 dual cab Ltd. I noticed the other day a some water staining on the carpet near the back of the back door on the driver's side. Thought it might be from snow falling in when the door was opened but after reading the above post has wondering if this is a problem to the dual cab Tundra and what others have been doing to aleiviate the problem.
  • 1257212572 Posts: 7
    Just took home my new Tacoma ( Ink blue,4x4, DC Off road) yesterday and have the popping/knocking noise from both my front ends( more on the pass side) with small bumps on the roads. Went back to the dealer today and they spent about 3 hours troubleshooting. They were extremely nice!!!(o'Brien in Indy)They called CA and were told that Toyota is aware of this problem but have yet no solution.
    In reading all the different forums I know that it was posulated to have come from Cab attachment bolts or the suspension something. Cant find where I read this. Does anyone have a diagnosis?
    Thanks a bunch.
  • It has been four weeks since the deluge. Since then we have had rain, but the cab showed no leak. One difference curtmann is that mine is not an '05. It is an '03 Tacoma. So I wonder how far back in history this really goes?

    B
  • ks54ks54 Posts: 1
    I tried to look at the same site and still have no info for this problem. Have you or anyone else found out how to change the fog lights on Tundras to run on high beams yet???
  • HELP! Can't find the problem with my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD with 175k miles...

    Problem description:

    1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.

    2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.

    3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.

    4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.

    5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.

    6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.

    7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.

    8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.

    9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.

    10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...

    11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...

    12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!

    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

    Power loss, cuts out and acts like not getting fuel anytime over 3000rpm!!!!
    HELP! Can't find the problem with my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L 4WD with 175k miles.

    Problem description:

    1 - Power loss when rpms go over 3000rpm after warming up, usually 10-15 minutes of driving.

    2 - Truck runs great when cold. The fact that it runs great when cold is what seems so puzzling on this problem.

    3 - The truck will not rev over 3000rpm after it warms up. Its almost like it has a governer or something. Sputters and cuts out.

    4 - Happens regardless of uphill or downhill, grade has nothing to do with it.

    5 - Happens in any gear and\or neutral, same thing, over 3000 rpms, cuts out like its not getting gas, coughs and chokes over 3000rpm. No power whatsoever.

    6 - Cleaned the MAF (mass air flow - the small sensor between the the aircleaner box and throttle body) and cleaned the throttle body (with throttle body cleaner) after those cleanings the truck seemed to run smoother and a little stronger but ended up doing the same thing after warming up.

    7 - unplugged the battery (thinking we could "reset" the problem if it was computer related, same thing.

    8 - Installed new fuel filter, still having problem.

    9 - Talked to a toyota mechanic, he said to clean or replace the MAF which we did.

    10 - Fuel pump? Toyota mechanic said we'd be able to hear it and should be be more noticable if the truck is going up hill, this can't be the problem...

    11 - Visual inspection of plug wires, they look good. They have the year 1999 on them. Thought about changing these but that wouldn't be making this problem happen? only after warming up? Trying not to spend a small fortune replacing parts and finding it doesn't end up fixing the problem...

    12 - Stop off for gas or shut it off for about 5-10 minutes and problem disappears until it warms up again. Temp gauge normal. How weird!

    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
  • I have a 04 tundra also, and have not experienced this problem nor have I heard of any other owners with this problem. I would be real suprised if you have a leak, but if so take it back to the dealer.
  • leob1leob1 Posts: 153
    I take it they ran a diagnostic test and no codes? How about your O's sensor/sensors? How about the catalytic converter/s? After the exhaust gets to a hot temp they start working...at lower temperatures they do not.
  • Maybe just a stab in the dark, but in the old days, sometimes an ignition device, mainly the coil, would overheat and the wires would somehow seperate, causing a loss of spark, till it cooled again.
    Good luck,
    TakeOut
  • My oldie 84, with 86K, 4 cyl, 22R, first year of the electronic controled 4 spd auto, has a prob with the Charge light and Brake light both staying on after the car is started.
    I am getting regular battery voltage of about 11.5 to 12.8 volts all the time. The voltage at the Altenator output is the same, all the time.
    My son, says that the alternator always should be putting out 13.5 to 14.5 volts when the car is running. I said that the regulator will turn off or lower the output from the alt when batt is charged.
    QUESTION: Does the alt reduce it's output voltage wise, when the batt is charged? or does the voltage at the output terminal always stay at 14 volts roughly?
    Thanks for reading.
    TakeOut
  • You need a new alternator
This discussion has been closed.