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Help Me Choose!

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Comments

  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    M really thankfuL to all of u guys.
    Looks like I will be going for campy if I am not able to find something in that range.

    Maxima and altimas are no-no as they are either out of range or close to my upper range. As few people suggested that I should keep some money aside as m buying as used vehicle. Camry sounds a better option. Fits within price range and will have some money saved for unusual scenarios too.

    I wish I can find a altima 2007 for that price with low miles(wishful thinking) but prices in Ohio are higher. I was looking for altima in NY and there are a lot of good cars available for cheap prices. Anyway I will keep u guys posted whatever it wud be.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,733
    Well, do at least run the numbers against the used car versus a similar new car like I suggested above. If you can absorb the initially higher monthly payments for a few years, you can end up way ahead if you keep the new car for 8-12 years vs 4 or so for the used one(you won't want a 13-14 year old Camry any more, trust me).

    Your bank will help you here - it's their job to make your money work best for you and they'll do a better job than I can do here.

    Also, a lease might be even cheaper per month. When I see an Accord at $250 a month with $0 down, that's hard to wrap my brain around. A used car loan will run that much in payments and interest, and you're stuck with repairs on the old car vs none on the new. One of these "we're dying for money" leases that the manufacturers are offering right now might be better still.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Well, "I have 15K" almost always means "I can afford/have a loan limit of 15K for a used car"

    Again, that is not what the OP said... nor is it what he meant. In fact, in his second post, he said, "I don't want to spend more than 12000." In his first post, he asked for help with specific vehicles and listed the prices.

    You can make all the arguments you want about buying a new car but if that isn't what someone wants, it really doesn't matter... especially after they make it very clear.

    Finally, (and I do mean "finally") I have never heard one financial expert say that it made more economical sense to buy new. They always stress buying used. Not that I listen.... I haven't bought used since I bought my first car in 1976. ;)

    Good luck, int64. Let us know how it turns out.
  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    Loan is not an option for me at this moment. So I won't be able to spend more than what I have. I am in new haven for a visit right now and here I am getting a 2008 altima with 7k miles for 13500 (may be less, I yacht bargained). Initially I was thinking to buy this one and drive to Ohio and transfer title. The deal is very good. But I am not comfortable spending that kind of money
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    One thing you might consider to stay within budget is to expand your search beyond Toyotas and Nissans, which tend to have higher resale values, to some comparable cars with lower resale values. Still good reliable cars, but less money. Examples are 2001+ Elantras (comparable interior volume to the Maxima, but compact outside and much lower price) and 2006+ Sonatas, and 2006.5+ Optimas. You should be able to find some of these well below $10k, with low miles and maybe even some of the five-year bumper-to-bumper warranty left.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,733
    13.5 for a 2008 is essentially getting a new CPO vehicle. You should do well with this. Though, the CVT does take some getting used to - I personally can't stand it myself.
  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I finally made my decision and bought the 2002 camry. I hope it will prove to be a good decision. Will keep you guys posted.
    Thanks
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Congrats! You've got lots of miles left in that car and it should be very reliable. Good choice for a first car.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,810
    Congratulations! You're welcome to drop by the Camry discussions here if you need any help or just want to chat with other owners.

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  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    Thanks guys,

    I need more help. The car has some breaking issues and when i bought the car. I took it to MIDAS for inspection. My friend was with me and according to him, they did not do a very good job to inspect it Anyway, according to them the rear brake rotors have some problem and needs to be replaced (may be read brake pads too). The cost will be around $300. I have been looking at some stuff online to check it, and looks like its not a big deal to change rotors, I want to give it a try myself. as the Machenic will charge me too much. Is there anyway you guys can help me? I want to know what kins tools and what size of tools i will need to change Rear Rotors, How to know If i really need to change rear rotors and brake pads? and if possible please share some vedio article about ho to do it, And which brand should i use for as rotors and pads?
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,733
    Well, you will need some chocks, and a heavy duty floor jack (same type of 60lb+ monster they use at the tire store ) . The entire wheel assembly has to be off the ground and then you have to PRAY that the bolts aren't rusted and seized together.

    Note - this equipment will likely run you $75-$100 after tax, so it's not really saving you a ton of money to DIY in this case - though if you have a mind to do *future* repairs, you'll be ready.

    Other than that, though, it's pretty straight-forward. Also, since you'll have the wheels and rotors off, you might consider attempting to fix the CV joints/boots if they need replacing.

    Lastly, just get new rotors. Resurfacing costs as much as a new one at that age (after 10 years, the originals are paper-thin or warped, trust me on this). After-market rotors are fine as well, to save some money. New brakes is one of the first things I do with almost every car I purchase as it's incredibly stupid not to have good brakes and tires considering a small ding these days can cost more than a thousand to fix. Or cost your insurance company a ton of money if it's your fault.

    That 20% better braking and handling might be what saves you from a lot of problems down the road.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,141
    $300 for new rear rotors and pads? Hell, let them have at it!
    It is going to cost you ~$150 for the parts alone from partsgeek.com. Then, as mentioned above, you may have some tools to buy.

    only reason to do it yourself is if you WANT to do it yourself purely for your satisfaction. It is not going to save you much money at all.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • jykkjykk Posts: 1
    What's a good OTD price on IS250 AWD with and w/o nav in the DC, Maryland, and VA area?

    Thx!!
  • samm43samm43 Posts: 195
    The floor jack is excessive, even if it is safer, it too still should be blocked as it a hydraulic device. I recommend using the jack that came with the car, BUT, only if you are prepared to block it well with good solid wood blocking built up to at least 6x6 size. (if you don't have a 6x6, then use 2x6 pcs high enough) I would use pieces no shorter than one foot, and longer is better. Obviously this should be done on a cement floor surface. Make sure where you block is under the suspended wheel assembly somewhere, that is loaded under the cars springs or struts. (not under some other part of the car that would allow the wheel assembly to drop under spring extension if the jack area slips or fails. I recommend lowering the jack onto your blocking to avoid this). Do not let blocking contact light areas like anti-sway arms or suspension links etc. I am pointing out the obvious here in places just to be safe.

    Your rear rotor may also house the rear emergency brake application which may be brake shoes that operate inside the hub assembly of the rotor. If so, you may not find these available aftermarket. And even if you do, I would not pick the cheapest Made in China rotors as they are notably thinner and do have inferior metal content that some will warp right from brand new on the first heavy brake application. The very best rotor is also not needed. I would go middle of the road in cost, just make sure they aren't charging you middle road prices but delivering the cheap rotors.

    As for pads, I tend to use soft material pads that do not last as long but are easier on the rotors. I especially recommend this if your rotors house the parking brake drum, because they are very expensive rotors, and new pads are cheaper and easier to replace next time around. This also applies more to a rear axle as it does not do much braking compared to the front, and soft pad material, while easier on the rotors, some do not grip as hard as ones with more metal content.

    If you have never done any mechanical work like this before, I highly recommend having a friend or neighbor over that is familiar with the process on your first time. As for the park brake bits, I would make a written diagram and carefully mark every piece and the order and placement that you removed so you can reverse your steps properly.

    In preparation for the job, aside from some obvious things you will need, don't forget to get some never-seize type compound which your helper will be able to show you where it goes. (one place is the adjusting screw assembly that extends the shoes for the proper parking brake adjustment, and another are the pins that hold the caliper pads and caliper slide pins).

    Have you considered using laws in place (depending on your state) that would have that shop do this work for free now, since they should not have certified this car with poor brakes in the first place? In most states there is a time and mileage limit for a claim to be filed.

    Sam
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Welcome, jykk. You might have better luck browsing/posting in the Lexus IS 250/350 forum.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,810
    Thanks, tallman1!
    For doing a great substitute hosting job, you can pick any one of my posts to delete. :)

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  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,733
    You can block it up and use the normal included car jack, but most of them won't have the proper stability or length to do the job very well. Wrenching on bolts is always problematic and it's kind of foolish to not have a good floor jack anyways considering the time and effort it saves over the years.

    A dealer-bought car (certified aside, even!), OTOH, is required by law to have properly working basic safety systems. ABS/brakes/seat belts/air bags - al have to work properly. And they know it. Don't let them pull a fast one on you considering what you paid them.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    you can pick any one of my posts to delete.

    Oh I am banking that one... could come in handy if you ever pick on my grammar... or use of ellipses... or (heaven forbid) something I should post. :shades:
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    So I bought the Impala. It's a 2007 with 83,000 miles and in great shape. It is still under Chevy's 5 year 100k power train warranty. So after cleaning it up, adding a spoiler, new wheels and tires, window tint, polished exhaust tips, a center console, and black surround headlights I'm still under $6000! Fuel economy is fine, it has cylinder deactivation but doesn't use it much above 65 mph, still getting over 21 around town and 28 on the interstate. Handling is not soggy at all, maybe that's the police 9C1 package but it's very sure footed especially now with the 18" wheels. Best thing my daughter and her future husband love it but I don't want to hand over the keys now! Here is the finished product;
    http://www.impalaforums.com/garage-image-5905-1303179990.jpg
  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    Regarding this "Have you considered using laws in place (depending on your state) that would have that shop do this work for free now, since they should not have certified this car with poor brakes in the first place? In most states there is a time and mileage limit for a claim to be filed.
    "

    I am not sure if i can do this, becouse they told me that the rotors needs to be changed, but they did not give me an exact cost about how much it will cost. They gave me a rough idea that it would be arround $300. Nothing else was mentioned by them. So i assume if something more is wrong. then i can look after the Law option. Thanks for your detailed post. I will try to ask my neighbour If they are willing to help me.
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