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Help Me Choose!

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Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    That's the best precis of the pathetic story of Saturn I've ever seen. Bravo!!
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 960
    Yes, it's small but seems better value than the '06 Sonata. When the best an owner can say is "that it runs" doesn't sound very good. You can find a good used car. I've had very good luck. Subarus are popular in Oregon. What about an Impreza or Legacy?
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,764
    "I've been absurdly lucky getting 50,000 + miles out of each of the three used cars I've owned with little more than a fuel pump issue and I've never payed more than $1,600 on any of them."

    Maybe you should buy a $2000 car, and if something major goes just junk it?
  • I'm not opposed to either and, as a matter of fact, I've had great success owning 2 Subaru Legacies in the past. I just was hoping to really knock it out of the park w gas mileage. I see that you can't have it all for $7,500 .
  • I would if I could but... it's a purchase for the wife and she has finer tastes than I do. She's giving up her dream vehicle (1999 4runner) because it gets poor gas mileage and is getting up there in miles, so I'd like to replace it with something she feels comfortable and "pretty" in.
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,764
    edited August 2013
    Did you show your wife the crash video? If so, what did she say? If not, maybe you should show it to her....? Does bluetooth matter to you or her? You press a button on your steering wheel to answer the phone. Useful/cool/safer.
  • My wife is a salesperson's dream and her watching that video would make her think there is about a 50% chance of her having that kind of crash. So no, I haven't showed her that video. That doesn't mean I haven't taken the video to heart though. I didn't realize how small that Accent was, it wont do.
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Posts: 79
    edited August 2013
    In terms of price, is there any threshold you'd refuse to cross if you were doing business with a private seller? IE, you'd gladly buy for sub $10k but once you get past that you'd be better off going to a dealer? This is, of course, assuming we do due diligence.

    In addition to this, provided we are talking a car that is about 3 years old, does a bank have a problem offering you financing on a private party exchange?
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    http://www.iihs.org/research/hldi/composite

    If you look at the data, given actual insurance payouts, mass wins. A tiny car simply does worse overall versus other cars. They also tend to have little to no real safety equipment standard in the 10-15 year old range. A 2000 Buick LeSabre, by comparison had ABS and stability control and so on, just because they put more money into it. You'll see that larger cars win most of the time.

    So you're doubly behind the eight-ball here. $7K means old and small and a world less safe than new and midsize. Or old large, and a rust bucket. (Portland isn't nice on older cars to say the least)

    http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/4002954253.html
    This is what you need to be looking at if you are serious about $7K. Or something like a Buick Lacrosse/Impala/etc. Big, overbuilt, inexpensive to fix, depreciates like a rock, and capable of lasting a few more years. Anything imported you really should just buy new,
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 960
    Here's a link to Consumer Reports recommended cars under $10k. The Accent isn't one of them but the Elantra is.
    http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/04/the-best-used-vehicles-for-under-20-0- 00/index.htm
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I've done a lot of private party deals and I don't have a particular threshold for price. If anything, I usually find the higher dollar vehicle to be better bargains because the market is very narrow. Most folks buying pricey vehicles have trades to deal with or timing of private selling their own vehicle.

    As for the bank, usually the headache is if the seller has a loan on their car. Many banks won't send the new buyer the title directly. There's usually a little risk involved there but I've never been burned.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    That warranty isn't worth that much. They are covering items that rarely if ever cause trouble. They are pretty safe in offering this and it appeals to what we call "warranty people" whose main concern when buying a car is the length of the warranty.

    Actually a smart move on their part!

    And they do require that you service your car at their dealership which isn't unreasonable. I know I wouldn't take my lawnmower to one of those Quickie Lube shops. They aren't much less money and they use questionable tactics and tend to oversell items.

    You may spend a bit more at a dealer but they use the correct oil and they don't use cheaply made oil filters etc. Well worth the difference!

    After reading all of this, I think you are a prime candidate for leasing a new 2013 LX Civic! You will love the car! You can keep your 7000.00 intect somewhere and at the end of the lease, you can walk away or purchase the car fro the residual. You could, at that point, use 7000.00 as a down payment and have a very low payment and still have a nice, reliable and safe car!
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,764
    edited August 2013
    isell: agree with you on the warranty.

    The lease deals on the Civic are great, but if he's going to keep the car long-term doesn't buying it make more sense.

    The Civic has 0.9% financing for 5 years right now, which is the lowest I ever recall for that car. Is 10% the lowest typical amount to put down to get the factory financing?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    I didn't know about that financing rate and I have to agree with you.

    Depending on a person's credit rating they can put very little down. Unless they have very good credit they may not qualify for that excellent rate.

    0.9% financing for five years is like free money. do it!
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Ace - it is very frustrating and stressful to try and work car deals over the phone or in person at the dealership. If you decide to go new, utilize available technology - use email and only negotiate with the Internet sales department folks. Only go to the dealer to do test drives and promise yourself not to discuss pricing on these visits. Visit the prices paid threads to get tips on car shopping techniques.

    Bill
  • Thanks gman. I will use this technique.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    edited August 2013
    You know, , it doesn't have to be frustrating and stressful. Shoppers bring much of that on themselves.

    The shoppers who are bound and determined to squeeze every last penny out of a deal are the ones that always leave unhappy and frustrated.

    They read the "expert" advice in these forums. Words written by people who think they know all there is to know about the car business.

    Instead of going through all of that, ask a family member or a friend for a referral. If you see a new car of the make you are considering in a parking lot, ask the owner about their experience.

    Instead of asking for the "Internet Manager" who is usually nothing more than a rotating inexperienced salesperson, ask the receptionist for a nice, experienced salesperson who has been there a long time.

    It really can be a relaxed, easy experience and no, you won't end up paying more.
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,764
    Mostly agree with Isell.

    A good and experienced sales person can save you time, money, stress, and help give you some good tips and tricks for your new car.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,715
    But always keep in mind... they are a salesperson, not your friend. It's not their job to make sure you get the best deal.
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Posts: 79
    edited August 2013
    benjamin,

    My experience teaches me that a salesman who makes my life better is the exception to the rule and that every other kind of salesman is an adversary. I am sure good ones are out there, but they are so few and far between as to easily justify a "I just don't deal with salespeople" rule in life because it's not worth my time trying to find a good one.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    That's true.

    If you were to invest two million (or more) dollars into a car dealership you would expect a decent return on your money I would hope.

    Otherwise, just keep those two million invested in conservative mutual funds and bonds and sit back and earn a ten percent return every year.

    But, some buyers don't think you are entitled to a profit. They think you should sell your cars for what you paid for them or even less. These same buyers demand top dollar for their ratty trade in that you hope some wholesaler will take at a break even profit to the store.

    I tried to maximize profits on every car I sold. That was my job and I was good at it. I didn't do this by lying or paying games. If I had to deeply discount a car and the deal made sense (important!) I would do what I had to do to make the deal happen.

    The people who were the cheapest grinders never left happy. They somehow left thinking that just maybe someone else somewhere could have bought that same car for less! These people were never loyal. They would give mediocre surveys and were difficult to deal with in the Service Department down the road.

    For me, it seemed like a small, miserable way to go through life but I suppose we are all different.

    Life is short...
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    A lot of the "good ones" have left the business or retired early.

    They get tired or trying to treat people as they would like to be treated.

    This leaves the type you don't like.

    As a lifelong Retail Sales Manager including a very high level position I really thought I had seen it all. I thought I had seen the worst in customers. I dealt with shoplifters, liars and cheats but NOTHING could prepare me for some of the customers in the car business. The vast majority were great to deal with and we got along very well. There were a handful of others that have left me forever cynical!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,715
    Exactly right... it's the salesperson's job to maximize profit on every car.

    So there's a lot more to buying a car at a good price than finding a nice, friendly, helpful salesperson at the dealership. I know some very nice car salespeople, and it was a pleasure dealing with them. But I didn't take their first offer... or second. Maybe not their third, either. I understand they're trying to maximize profit. I'm trying to get the lowest price I can. And it's always the salesperson's prerogative to tell me when they've gone as low as they can, to ensure they make enough profit on the deal. I respect that kind of honesty, as I know where I stand. And if it's a good price, I'll take it. If not, we'll shake hands and I'll move on.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 960
    Sadly I have to agree with you. And from my perspective it's been a horrible experience ever since I started buying cars. I've actually had more satisfaction and less aggravation buying used. But once you go through the wringer hopefully you end up with a very nice vehicle that lasts a long time.
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,764
    edited August 2013
    All the new cars I've bought have been good experiences in terms of the salesperson. Probably a lot of that is luck. But I also try to make my own good fortune by doing a lot of research, knowing exactly what I want and knowing the numbers, and treating the salesperson with respect and good humor. If they like you and want to make you happy, often things go well and a good deal is achieved with smiles all around. I got $2700 off of my hard-to-find deep red 2013 Accord EXL navi just a few months after it was introduced.

    Buying and owning a good car is one of the many pleasures in life, imho. Not everyone is so fortunate. I used to not be so fortunate. Sounds silly, but I'm grateful now to own my good Accords, a 2008 and 2013. After decades of driving mostly sucky cars, they are are both excellent, and by far the best cars I've ever owned.
  • Hello all, I hope this is the right thread but I need some help deciding on what to do. My lease is up on my 2011 Acura tsx and its been a great car. Although my finances were better when I first got the car that's changed. Anyways to get to the point if I were to purchase my tsx after my lease is up my contract states it would probably be about 20k. So I started looking at cars at this price and even lower. I've got my eye on a new or 1 year old Kia optima. So which would be the better buy? Obviously the optima would come out cheaper and it's newer compared to my 3 year old tsx. But I'm sure the tsx has merits that surpass the optima. I want to look and compare everything on both cars because this next purchase I want to keep the car for a good 10-15 years. So it has to be long lasting. No expensive parts in case I need to repair. Insurance would be a key point too. Which would you go for? Thanks for all the help!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    " No expensive parts"....Good luck on that one!

    You can buy your leased Acura for it's residual. It isn't "about" any number. It is a hard, defined number.

    I am not a fan of Korean cars for a number of reasons but I know they have greatly improved in recent years.

    You are simply going to have to do what you deem the best route. If you have taken good care of your TSX and you like it, you'll be able to buy it for the residual which is a great deal.

    No "good" answer her. It's your decision.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    You need to figure out the market value of your TSX and compare that to the buy-out. If the buy-out is a fair deal and you really like your TSX then I think that would be a fairly safe bet. Anytime you KNOW the history/care/etc of a used car it should be worth more to you. Now if for some reason the buy-out is higher than what you can buy a similar TSX...then it may not make sense.

    Some of the new Kia's/Hyundai's are nice...but to keep one 10-15 years? I think the TSX would be a far better long-term car and you would enjoy it more. Average out the additional cost over 15 years and even a $5,000 premium looks pretty cheap.

    My experience with Acura is that the service/repairs really aren't that expensive if you find a good dealer or even an independent mechanic that specializes in honda/acura. Certainly nothing like many of the other "luxury" brands.
  • Thanks for your reply guys! Well my car based on kbb is worth 23.5k my residual is 20.4k from the top of my head. My lease is up in 5 months so I have time to think and not rush it. Also would there be any negotiating with the leasing co to lower or is the residual set in stone? I could also look at the 2010 tsx which runs about $17k and there's not a huge difference from 2010-2011.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,691
    Residuals are set according to what they think the wholesale or auction values will be at lease end. If they set residuals too high as they sometimes do, they can take a beating when the cars fall short at the auctions.

    TSX's are nice cars but not all that popular. If you can buy a nice one for 20K, you will be doing OK.

    You can't negotiate a residual! That would be opening a can of worms and no different that if they decided to RAISE it at the end.

    Lastly, why buy a 2010 when you know the car you already have....unless....you know you've been sloppy with maintenance as some lessors can be sometomes.
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