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Help Me Choose!

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  • The Fusion has a fantastically good reliability record as per Consumer Reports. The Malibu doesn't. This doesn't mean that YOUR Malibu will have problems but the record is plain to see. I'll probably get a Fusion just based on the CR reliability record.
  • The key is buying a car that holds its resale value. A new Lexus would hold its resale value for years. Virtually none of the GM midsize or compacts do. I would only buy a used car if it was 35-50% cheaper than the new model. There are some conditions,

    The used car (like a Malibu) would have to have less than 36,000 miles so that part of the original bumper to bumper warranty still existed. It would have to be GM Certified.

    I would buy at least a 3 year GM Protection Plan so the car would be covered essentially like a new one.

    The car would have to be pretty much identical to the current model. There was essentially no difference between the 08-10 Malibus..
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Actually, the resale value the quote is percentage and not actual dollars. You are always better off getting a vehicle with high initial depreciation a few years old. If you buy one car for $12K and the other for 16K, and they depreciate to 2K and 4K in another 6-7 years, you're actually behind 2K on the "lower depreciation" vehicle.
  • chcatchcat Posts: 4
    I recently wrecked my Corolla 2000 - the car went into a spinoff on the slash and hit the gardrail.
    I had it for 10 years and for the most part have been happy with it. The only real problem i see with this model is the winter performance. The model definitely has a propensity for spinoffs ( I had similar incident before). Can someone recommend something in similar class but with better track record for the winter conditions? My priorities: 1. Reliability 2. Fuel economy ( My daily commute is ~100m) 3. Winter performance
    Any opinions?
    Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,209
    Winter performance has very very little to do with the vehicle itself. If you put those same tires from your Corolla on something deemed "a good winter car," it would also become a bad winter car.

    Best winter car I've had yet was a rear-wheel drive 18-year-old car with no traction or stability control. But I did put a good set of snow tires on it. That makes ALL the difference.

    SOO... get yourself any economy car you like with traction and stability control and make sure you have tires that are good in the snow and ice, and you are good to go.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    If you own your own home, you might consider a CNG powered vehicle. With a 200-250 mile range, but the ability to add a filling device to your garage, it's a very attractive solution since fuel will run you roughly $1.50 a "gallon"(equivalent). The price difference between a normal Civic and a CNG one will be paid back with a commute like that in a few years. And if you are in a situation where they have carpool lanes, most states give CNG vehicles lifetime access to use them.(unlike hybrids where they largely stopped issuing them).

    Figure 250 days a year X 100 miles. That's 25K a year. Figure 30K with weekend and other driving. Wth a 40mpg sub-compact, you'd be looking at 750 gallons x $3.50-$4.00 vs. 30mpg with the CNG Civic, or 1.25-$1.50 x 1000. Roughly $1500 a year savings in fuel.

    Winter performance, well, you have to use snow tires. Nothing will run well in snow without them except for maybe a 4x4.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi Breakfastclub:

    I own a new 2010 LTZ Malibu with a four cylinder engine. ----- If I had to purchase this vehicle again, I WOULD NOT make the purchase with the four (4) cylinder engine. ---- I would purchase the V6 engine. ---- I would also insist that the dealer change the tires from Goodyear to Michelin. (YES, this would be a "deal breaker!")

    REASONS FOR MY DECISION:

    1.) The Goodyear tires leak air.
    2.) The Goodyear tires have issues, check the "net."
    3.) The four (4) cylinder engine lacks power, and does not get the posted MPG The best mileage I have achieved is 27mpg. ---- (posted mileage is 30 to 33 mpg)

    NOTE: ---- I also own a 2007 V6 XLE Toyota Camry. On a road trip I can easily get 30 mpg. ----- On some trips I have achieved 34 mpg. ------ (I sacrificed performance with the Malibu, by getting the four cylinder engine, and I am not getting the mileage!) ---- While I like the looks and the quality of the fit & finish of the vehicle, I NO LONGER ENJOY DRIVING THIS VEHICLE! ----- I made a BIG MISTAKE purchasing this vehicle, and if I could afford to trade this vehicle, I would do so in a heart beat! ----- Maybe if I had the V6, I would feel better, but a this point in time it is just wishful thinking. ----- I have owned a four cylinder 2003 Honda Accord in the past, and that vehicle could give me decent mileage and run rings around this Malibu in terms of performance. ------ The Malibu rides like the Honda Accord, but it does not perform like the Honda Accord. ----- If I could turn back the hands of time, I would purchase another XLE V6 Camry. ---- I do all my servicing at the selling dealer at 2,500 mile intervals. ---- My tire pressure is checked and reset at that time. ----- Within four weeks, the tire pressure is down from 30psi to 28psi. ----- My seliing dealer is outstanding. ------ GM is another issue. ---- I have sent the GM Rep an E-mail, off this site, and I am currently waiting for a response. ----- I hope they at least take the time to respond to my inquiry. ----- I will either bite the financial bullet, and put four (4) new original equipment Michelin tires on this vehicle at a cost of $888.00 dollars, ----- or I will trade the vehicle for a used XLE 2009 Camry. (Tires had a lot to do with getting MPG.) ---- Even with the Ford Fusion be very careful about the four cylinder engine. ----- Best regards. ----- Dwayne :lemon: :confuse: :cry: :shades:
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I don't find a two point loss in one month to be excessive. Your pressure is determined by weather more than anything. With a temperature drop from the time you put 30psi to the time you have the car serviced, 28psi could easily be. Even without the temperature drop, two pounds is nothing. I have Michelins on an '09 and it happens with them too.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi temj12:

    I respect your opinion, but my XLE V6 Toyota Camry with Aluminum Alloy wheels and Michelin tires do not loose air! ---- There is a connection between the quality for these tires and the lack of MPG!

    Best regards! ---------- Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 791
    Your comments about the substantial differences between the Michelin's on your 2007 Camry and the Goodyears on your 2010 Malibu were very interesting. Enough so that I decided to do a little research and here's what I found-

    The 2010 Malibu LTZ uses a P225/50TR18 Goodyear Eagle LS-2 (Grand Touring All-Season) tire. The only thing vaguely interesting about these tires are the price- only $98 each for replacements! For an 18" tire with a 50-series sidewall, that is DIRT CHEAP...rarely a good sign when it comes to tire quality.

    The 2007 Camry uses a P215/60VR16 Michelin Energy MXV4 S8 (Grand Touring All-Season) tire. This tire wears the "Michelin Green X" Low-Rolling-Resistance certification (and costs $172 each for replacements). It was the standard tire on most 2006-2010 Hyundai Sonata, all 2005-2007 Honda Accord Hybrid, 2007-2011 Toyota Camry and 2007-2008 Toyota Camry Hybrid models! It is engineered to be the most efficient tire in its class and apparently it does just that.

    When the time comes to replace the OEM Goodyears on your Malibu, here are three very good replacements you should take a look at-

    Michelin Primacy MXM4 - P225/50VR18
    Grand Touring All-Season
    'Green X' LRR-rating
    $209 each - 6-year/55,000-mile treadwear warranty

    Michelin HydroEde - P225/50TR18
    Passenger All-Season
    'Green X' LRR-rating
    $158 each - 6-year/90,000-mile treadwear warranty

    Continental ProContact with EcoPlus Technology- P225/50TR18
    Standard Touring All-Season
    EcoPlus+ LRR-rating
    $118 each - 6-year/80,000-mile treadwear warranty
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi igozoomzoom:

    Thank you for your very interesting and informative posting! ---- You have just proved my point, that General Motors has equipped the "top of the line Chevrolet Malibu LTZ" with the bottom of the line Goodyear Tires! ----- (This is an accident looking for a place to happen, and of course it will always be "driver's error!" ----- If one of these fails on the road, I will be sure to retain the tire, and have it examined by a tire expert! ----- If it turns out to be defective in materials and workmanship, I will seek legal advice! ---- This could turn out to be another Ford Explorer / Firestone issue!)

    I am very sure that if I put Michelin Tires on the Malibu, I will get at least 30 MPG, if not close to 33 MPG. ----- Now having said that, as a customer who is trying to buy from an American name plate, I feel that GM has treated me, and others who own this vehicle in a very "shabby manner!" ---- This vehicle is competing against the Honda Accord, the Toyota Camry and the Hyundai Sonata, but GM does not put the same quality type of tires on their vehicle. ---- Personally, I feel General Motors owes me a set of high quality tires. ----- Now the question becomes, how do I get GM to pay for the tires?

    This is why consumers have abandoned the American Car companies in the past! ---- If the American car companies want loyal customers, ----- loyalty works both ways!

    Best regards. --------- Dwayne

    Best regards. ---------------- Dwayne :lemon: :shades: :confuse: ;) :)
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Do you check the air pressure after the Chev dealer sets them at 30psi?
    Perhaps their gauge doesn't read the same as yours. Again as many others have mentioned 2psi in a month is nothing to worry about.

    You could replace the four tires with top of the line Michelins and still have a slight lose in a month. The rims could be the problem, not the Goodyears. Then what do you do? Demand GM replace the rims for a 2psi lose. They will never do that and no other manufacturer would either. If you were losing five psi per month then you would have a case.

    Comparing the tires on the Camry to the Malibu. The tire gauge that the Toyota dealer uses simply may be reading the same as yours and the Chev dealer's gauge slightly different.

    Manufacturers use all types of tires on vehicles. However, they all must meet or exceed rigorous safety standards. Everyone has had problems with various brands--for instance the owners of late model Toyota Highlanders with 19 inch rims complain about poor traction in winter and the wet roads with the tire that Toyota installed from the factory.

    I am afraid that you just don't have a case for tire or rim replacement with maybe a slight 2psi loss per month. The tire isn't going to self destruct due to a slight lose of air. Me thinks you are overly concerned.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    HI bdyment:

    Thank you for the response to my recent posting. I appreciate your ideas on this subject and I would like to respond to your posting.

    1.) (QUOTE: "Do you check the air pressure after the Chevrolet Dealer sets the air at 30psi?") --------- Kindly be advised that I choose to have all my vehicles serviced, by the selling dealer every 2,500 miles, because I do not believe in extended oil and filter changes. ----- At that point in time, I have all fluids checked, and the tires set at the proper psi. ---- (At the appropriate mileage, the vehicle's tires are rotated.) ----- After four weeks the tire pressure is down to 28 psi, as indicated by the "on-board monitoring system." ----- (QUESTION: ---- Is a "hand held tire gauge" more accurate than the "on-board monitoring system?" ----- If that is true, then I seriously question the quality of the entire vehicle!) ------ If I am taking my vehicle to an authorized Chevrolet dealership for service, I would assume that they have the correct knowledge and equipment to do the task correctly. ---- In addition, the "monitoring system" always shows that I have 30psi when leaving the dealership. ---- (NOTE: I do check the oil in the engine once a week, in the morning prior to leaving for work, because there is no monitoring system for being one quart low!)

    2.) (QUOTE: "You could replace the four (4) tires with top of the line Michelins and still have a slight loss in a month. ---- The rims could be the problem, not the Goodyears. Then what do you do? ---- Demand GM replace the rims for 2psi?) ------ There is a very good possibility that the problem could involve both the tires and / or the rims. ----- If the rims are porous, then there is a manufacturing defect in the material of the Aluminum / Alloy rim. ---- If the rim is machined improperly, where the tire seals against the rim, then there is a manufacturing defect in the process associated with rim construction. ----- IT DOES NOT MATTER to me as the customer, because I paid for a vehicle, and I expect a level of quality that equals other vehicles in the same price range both foreign and domestic. ----- (THERE IS AN "EXPECTATION OF QUALITY" ASSOCIATED WITH THIS PURCHASE!) ---- I expect "quality" for my money, because I give my customers quality for their money! ---- GM is free to make any decision that they want in relation to this issue, and I am free to share my opinion based on the facts that I have collected and my daily experience with this vehicle. ---- I would like to meet with a GM / Chevrolet Representative to seriously discuss this issue. ----- GM needs every customer at this point in time! ---- I would love to write a "posting" on this forum saying that GM has solved the problem with my LTZ Malibu! ---- That is my goal!

    Thank you again for your time and concern with regards to this issue. It is always good to hear everyone's opinion. This is what makes this forum GREAT! By sharing ideas we can focus in on the problem, and come up with solutions.

    Best regards. ---------- Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;) :)
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    edited January 2011
    Note - OEM tires are always either vastly inflated in price as part of the tire/rim package or are simply whatever they could put on and save money while doing it. Brand doesn't make much difference. Brakes and struts are similar - most OEM stuff is mediocre at best.

    1 - Concerning the tire pressure, the fact is that with any tubeless tire, they will always settle into the PSI that is appropriate based upon the weight of the vehicle and geometry of the rim. Excess air will simply bleed out until the internal pressure and the tire's material come into equilibrium. Given that many vehicles are heavier than ever before, it's likely to cause more of this effect. If anything, blame the low profile tires that they put on extremely heavy front ends.

    2 - You should go by what the manufacturer recommends and never on what it says on the tire. Case in point - I had an old 4Runner. Front was supposed to be 26 and the rear 34. The tires always said 35PSI but would handle like junk and wear wrong unless I set them to what it said on the sticker on the door. What it says on the tire is the maximum recommended pressure and it's just fine to run them a few PSI lower if the vehicle's suspension and/or rims require it. Also, for instance, if you're on snow or other poor surfaces. Lowering your PSI on your snow tires by 5 -10 PSI temporarily can make a world of difference. Virtually no tire that I know of will pop its bead unless you're running at least 15PSI or lower.

    3 - He's seriously wasting the dealer's time over 2PSI? Give the poor overworked people a break and just deal with it. Unless the tires are wearing bald on the edges, it's fine.

    4 - Yes, engines burn and/or leak some oil. They always have.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Dwayne For your peace of mind why don't you just check the tires after the dealer has inflated them to 30psi. Yes there could be a variance between the on board display and the hand held gauge. For instance the average mpg reported by various makes of autos often does not agree with a manual check of fuel mileage.

    Another suggestion is to slightly over inflate the four tires to 32 or 33psi for a few weeks. This will often seat a tire against the rim and stop a small lose of air. The suggestions that people have given you is exactly what a dealer will do to check a faulty tire or rim.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I don't know how far you drive to get to the dealer but if the tires are warm, filling them with air won't be all that accurate. They should be filled when they are cold.

    Oil changes at 2500? Wow. I guess that I won't suggest that you do a Google search on the 3000 mile oil change myth. ;)
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    On oil, it depends.

    The first oil change should be done at 100 miles if the engine is using conventional oil and is an older design. The reason is because new formulations don't have enough zinc and phosphorous in the last 2-3 years and older designs (the V8 in a Ford Mustang is a good example) were designed with high zinc oil in mind. You need to swap it out in that case. And, the initial grime from the new engine is also nice to get out. If it is a modern design, it's fine to wait to 3K and then change like normal at 3-6K after that as long as it isn't recycled oil. Conventional oil fails gradually and even when it is extremely old, will still provide some protection. Stabilizers like Lucas and similar can extend the life substantially in extreme conditions.

    ie - if I bought a new Grand Marquis with that ancient 4.6 V8 in it, or say, a GM car with a pushrod engine, I'd immediately dump the oil and put high zinc racing oil in it for the first couple of changes to help harden the internal parts and get the rings seated properly. With an engine like the Ecotec, modern low zinc oils will likely be just fine.

    For synthetic, though, it's trickier. The issue is that synthetic "oil" is really just viscous goo with a bunch of anti-wear additives added. IF (no, WHEN) the additives fail, it fairly quickly fails and has the lubricating properties of water(engine eats itself in short order). This is such a potential disaster that Cadillac and several other manufacturers are now telling owners that they should change at 6K no matter what the oil life monitor says.

    The first change should be at half the normal interval or 6 months after manufacture if it's been sitting on the lot that long before being sold in any case. Sitting for a year in the corner of the lot with 30 miles on it is asking for a problem.

    So there are really three factors at work. New vs old engine design, normal vs synthetic oil, and high vs low zinc.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi

    Simply put, ---- "oil and filters are cheap maintenance, ----- engines are expensive!" ----- I always have this service performed at the selling dealer, so that all my service records are at one location. ---- I can then travel all over the country, and have my service records follow me through computer science, ----- should there be a warranty issue on the road! ---- It keeps my life "stupid simple!" ---- Extended oil and filter services are over-rated! --- (Nice idea but not practical in the "real world!) ---If you check the "net" you will see engine sludge issues in name plates such as Chrysler, VW, & Toyota. ----- By having my vehicle serviced frequently, I can have my fluids and tire pressure monitored. ----- This is why I am so annoyed at the tire pressure issue on this vehicle! ----- Chevrolet has a quality car in the Malibu, but they miss the little things that would make it GREAT and OUTSTANDING, ----- (like high quality tires!) ----- QUESTION: ----- How much more would it cost to put a set of "Michelin fuel efficient tires" on this vehicle, --- recognizing that they purchase large quantities for their assembly line? ---- Their MPG increase would be an additional "selling tool" for future vehicles in the marketplace! ----- Cheap is NOT always better! ----- I was ready to consider purchasing an additional Chevrolet vehicle, when I turn in my 2007 XLE V6 Camry (2012), but now I need to really re-think this decision. ----- I cannot get 30mpg from a four cylinder engine and a 6 speed automatic transmission, ------- yet I can get 30+ mpg on a V6 Camry with a 6 speed automatic trans. ------ (The Camry has Michelin tires!) ----- I am still waiting for a response from the GM factory representative that monitors these boards! ----- My vehicle is paid in full, so as such, I could "bit the bullet" and trade it for a foreign name plate, --- or I could I could advertise my dissatisfaction with these tires with magnetic signs on the vehicle. ---- (I am sure that GM would consider that very unprofessional on my part, but it is "ok" to equip the vehicle with low quality tires.) ------ The MSRP on this vehicle was $30,000.00! --- (I did not pay close to this.) ---- For that MSRP, (on a Toyota), I would have original equipment Michelin tires, and I would not have to adjust their pressure on a weekly basis! ---- QUESTIONS: --- What is wrong with wanting quality for the money spent? ---- Because of these tires, I AM NOT getting the posted mileage numbers. ----- Does GM care? ---- The answer to that question is "NO," because if they wanted to get maximum MPG from this vehicle they would install fuel efficient tires on this vehicle from the factory. -----

    Thank you for sharing the information on engine oil. ---- I learn a lot of background information. ----- This is what makes these forums GREAT! ---- There are a lot of people out there in the computer world who have important information, and who are willing to share it in an open forum.

    Best regards. ----------------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :) :sick:
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I would encourage everyone to look at the scientific data about oil changes and then decide. There are environmental and political issues about using oil unnecessarily. I wouldn't want people to think that changing oil at 2500 - 3k is the only option if one wants to take care of one's engine.

    As for new engines, check your manufacturer's recommendations. As an example, Honda puts an additive (molybdenum) in their engines from the factory that helps get rid of the small metal filings in new engines. They suggest that you wait until 5000 miles for that first oil change.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,636
    Don't bother...he likes doing this. I would at least go by what the manufacturer suggests for oil change intervals since they built it. If you can't trust them, maybe one should buy a different car. The tires loosing some air in a month is nothing to get excited about. The Malibu is not a defective car at all, it just doesn't live up to the "personal qualifications" that this poster wants...personally, this person had the knowledge & opportunity before he bought a 4 cylinder car to know what would better suit his needs. Coming from an Accord & Camry with their great engines, perhaps some more homework was needed.

    When anyone talks about anything "legal", it will be very tough to prove that your qualifications make this car unsafe or whatever position you claim. Your standards are higher for things like oil changes & how much air is acceptable for a tire to loose every month. The "normal standards" for this particular car are what the engineers chose for peak & most economical performance. Doubt highly that the manufacturer deceived you in any way.

    Think also we have some buyers remorse going on here also. The 4 cylinder engine was just not the right engine for you period, as I'm sure it works correctly up to it's specifications. I'd talk with the dealer & just see how the situation can be rectified to put you into a 6 cylinder model with tires you prefer with as little $ coming out of your pocket. Some personal responsibility has to be taken on your part if the car didn't live up "to your standards" as yours will be different than mine or other posters in these forums.

    So just talk with your dealer politely & "fix" the situation...period, so you can just move on...you've created unnecessary aggravation for yourself here!

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    You are right about Cadillac dealers advising 6,000 mile oil changes regardless what the Oil Life Monitor says. One of my vehicles is an '09 CTS and the dealer says that they are finding that they have problems with the actuators in some of the engines where people have gone by the monitor. I feel sorry for the person who buys a used car where the person has gone by the monitor.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi Sandman 6472:

    Thank you for taking time to respond to my recent posting. ------- You are absolutely correct in your assessment of my "buyers remorse," ---- but not for the reasons that you think! ---- I saw the 2010 four Cylinder Malibu as an American Copy of the Honda four cylinder Accord. ------ The vehicle drives just like the 2003 Honda Accord. ---- It was just pointed out to me today, that GM is running an advertisement on TV stating that the 2011 Malibu gets 33 mpg. ----(SOMEONE IS LYING!) ------ So you see, this figure in not in my imagination. Chevrolet is making this statement NOT ME! ----- I at least expect to get 30mpg on the highway! ---- QUESTION: ---- Should I believe Chevrolet, and if I do believe this statement, should I expect to get at least 30mpg? ---- If I decide to "dump this vehicle," it will not be because I did not do my homework, ---- rather it will be because Chevrolet has not produced a vehicle that matches their own advertisement! ---- NOTE: ----- I was not given the opportunity to take this vehicle on a long road trip to measure the MPG to see if it matched the stated advertisement! ---- In order to be responsible for a poor purchase, I needed to have had the opportunity to evaluate the vehicle on the road. ----- Such was not the case! ------ (I also assumed that the four tires would hold air!)----- If I was to turn in this vehicle for a new vehicle, I would not be purchasing another Chevrolet. ---- Most likely, I would be trading this Malibu against a Camry. ---- I would get about $19,500.00 for this vehicle on a trade. To trade up to an XLE V6 NEW Camry would require about $10,000.00 out of pocket, ---- plus the cost of an extended factory warranty, ($1,600.00) ----- The question is; ------ does my dissatisfaction motivate me to take such and action? ---- In reality, a vehicle is only transportation! ---- Getting five miles less per gallon is not all that big of a deal in terms of money, but it does have a big impact on the perceived ethics of an American Car Company. --------- When it comes time to purchase an new vehicle, do I consider an American name plate, or do I totally discount all American vehicles and only consider foreign vehicles? --- I will let you guess with regards to my response. ------- Best regards. ---- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • kajivkajiv Posts: 8
    When does Honda recommend the first oil change for Honda Accord?
    I put on a 1500 miles so far. Is it time to get it changed? Thanks for your response in advance.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,837
    Since this discussion is about choosing which vehicle to purchase, and your question is specifically about Accord ownership, I'm going to send you to the Honda Accord list of discussions and ask you to pick an existing one there, where other owners can give you advice.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • chcatchcat Posts: 4
    Depends on oil, not on the type of car. Typically in 3000 miles, or 3 months. Can be twice as long for synth oil. should be a sticker on your windshield telling you when..
  • chcatchcat Posts: 4
    Depends on oil, not on the type of car. Typically in 3000 miles, or 3 months. Can be twice as long for synth oil. should be a sticker on your windshield telling you when..
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Have you followed up on any of the numerous suggestions other forum members have given you in good faith regarding the possible loss of 2 psi per month in your tires?

    Also refusing to consider other American cars because of your disapointment with your Malibu is like refusing to buy a Honda because you had a problem with a Toyota.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,636
    What does the owners manual say? Have you even read it? I went with the owners manual when I bought my Civic, there's some kind of additive used that needs to stay in for a certain amount of time.

    Please, follow what the manual says and you'll be just fine!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Kirstie gives good advice so I suggest you come over to the Accord discussion topics in the future. Since I see that you haven't posted anything there yet, the short answer is 5000 miles.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi bdyment:

    Thank you for your response to my postings. ---- Please be assured that all the responses are greatly appreciated.

    I drove this vehicle to the service station and inflated the tires to 32psi last week. ---- I then parked the vehicle in the driveway. ---- I have been driving my 2007 V6 Camry in the snow, because the Malibu is not as good as the Camry in the snow. ------ The weight of the V6 engine makes a BIG difference!

    In terms of performance, a four cylinder Honda, Camry, Nissan, Hyundai, or Kia could run rings around this Malibu, and still get the mileage. Having owned a 2003 four cylinder Accord, there is a "BIG DIFFERENCE" in performance when coming out of a toll booth on the highway with the Accord vs the Malibu, and the Honda gives you the mileage. ----- The down side to the Honda is the seating. It is VERY HARD and VERY TIGHT! The Honda has a 5 speed trans, while the Malibu has a 6 speed trans. With that fact in mind, the Malibu should at least equal the Honda in mileage & performance, but such is not the case! ---- When I took the test drive, I drove the vehicle on secondary roads, (not on the highway!) ---- It seemed to have an adequate "pick-up" and reserve power! ---- Once I started to drive it on the highway, I started to notice that at 60 mph it really lacks quality passing power. This is where the Honda Accord excels. ---- The engine is just too small for this size vehicle. The engine is working "very hard" when on the highway. At 60 mph, my Camry floats along the road. If I take my foot off the accelerator, the vehicle coast along the road. The Malibu is the direct opposite. (THIS COULD BE THE RESULT OF THE POOR QUALITY TIRES ON THE MALIBU!) The Camry has Michelin tires, and the Malibu has "bottom of the line Goodyear tires." ---- The Malibu is a good copy of the Honda Accord, but GM did not finish the job. The engine needs to be refined, and they need to spend some money on quality tires.

    Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
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