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Help Me Choose!

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  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Well, you will need some chocks, and a heavy duty floor jack (same type of 60lb+ monster they use at the tire store ) . The entire wheel assembly has to be off the ground and then you have to PRAY that the bolts aren't rusted and seized together.

    Note - this equipment will likely run you $75-$100 after tax, so it's not really saving you a ton of money to DIY in this case - though if you have a mind to do *future* repairs, you'll be ready.

    Other than that, though, it's pretty straight-forward. Also, since you'll have the wheels and rotors off, you might consider attempting to fix the CV joints/boots if they need replacing.

    Lastly, just get new rotors. Resurfacing costs as much as a new one at that age (after 10 years, the originals are paper-thin or warped, trust me on this). After-market rotors are fine as well, to save some money. New brakes is one of the first things I do with almost every car I purchase as it's incredibly stupid not to have good brakes and tires considering a small ding these days can cost more than a thousand to fix. Or cost your insurance company a ton of money if it's your fault.

    That 20% better braking and handling might be what saves you from a lot of problems down the road.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,431
    $300 for new rear rotors and pads? Hell, let them have at it!
    It is going to cost you ~$150 for the parts alone from partsgeek.com. Then, as mentioned above, you may have some tools to buy.

    only reason to do it yourself is if you WANT to do it yourself purely for your satisfaction. It is not going to save you much money at all.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • jykkjykk Posts: 1
    What's a good OTD price on IS250 AWD with and w/o nav in the DC, Maryland, and VA area?

    Thx!!
  • samm43samm43 Posts: 195
    The floor jack is excessive, even if it is safer, it too still should be blocked as it a hydraulic device. I recommend using the jack that came with the car, BUT, only if you are prepared to block it well with good solid wood blocking built up to at least 6x6 size. (if you don't have a 6x6, then use 2x6 pcs high enough) I would use pieces no shorter than one foot, and longer is better. Obviously this should be done on a cement floor surface. Make sure where you block is under the suspended wheel assembly somewhere, that is loaded under the cars springs or struts. (not under some other part of the car that would allow the wheel assembly to drop under spring extension if the jack area slips or fails. I recommend lowering the jack onto your blocking to avoid this). Do not let blocking contact light areas like anti-sway arms or suspension links etc. I am pointing out the obvious here in places just to be safe.

    Your rear rotor may also house the rear emergency brake application which may be brake shoes that operate inside the hub assembly of the rotor. If so, you may not find these available aftermarket. And even if you do, I would not pick the cheapest Made in China rotors as they are notably thinner and do have inferior metal content that some will warp right from brand new on the first heavy brake application. The very best rotor is also not needed. I would go middle of the road in cost, just make sure they aren't charging you middle road prices but delivering the cheap rotors.

    As for pads, I tend to use soft material pads that do not last as long but are easier on the rotors. I especially recommend this if your rotors house the parking brake drum, because they are very expensive rotors, and new pads are cheaper and easier to replace next time around. This also applies more to a rear axle as it does not do much braking compared to the front, and soft pad material, while easier on the rotors, some do not grip as hard as ones with more metal content.

    If you have never done any mechanical work like this before, I highly recommend having a friend or neighbor over that is familiar with the process on your first time. As for the park brake bits, I would make a written diagram and carefully mark every piece and the order and placement that you removed so you can reverse your steps properly.

    In preparation for the job, aside from some obvious things you will need, don't forget to get some never-seize type compound which your helper will be able to show you where it goes. (one place is the adjusting screw assembly that extends the shoes for the proper parking brake adjustment, and another are the pins that hold the caliper pads and caliper slide pins).

    Have you considered using laws in place (depending on your state) that would have that shop do this work for free now, since they should not have certified this car with poor brakes in the first place? In most states there is a time and mileage limit for a claim to be filed.

    Sam
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Welcome, jykk. You might have better luck browsing/posting in the Lexus IS 250/350 forum.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,890
    Thanks, tallman1!
    For doing a great substitute hosting job, you can pick any one of my posts to delete. :)

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  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    You can block it up and use the normal included car jack, but most of them won't have the proper stability or length to do the job very well. Wrenching on bolts is always problematic and it's kind of foolish to not have a good floor jack anyways considering the time and effort it saves over the years.

    A dealer-bought car (certified aside, even!), OTOH, is required by law to have properly working basic safety systems. ABS/brakes/seat belts/air bags - al have to work properly. And they know it. Don't let them pull a fast one on you considering what you paid them.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    you can pick any one of my posts to delete.

    Oh I am banking that one... could come in handy if you ever pick on my grammar... or use of ellipses... or (heaven forbid) something I should post. :shades:
  • hersbirdhersbird Posts: 323
    So I bought the Impala. It's a 2007 with 83,000 miles and in great shape. It is still under Chevy's 5 year 100k power train warranty. So after cleaning it up, adding a spoiler, new wheels and tires, window tint, polished exhaust tips, a center console, and black surround headlights I'm still under $6000! Fuel economy is fine, it has cylinder deactivation but doesn't use it much above 65 mph, still getting over 21 around town and 28 on the interstate. Handling is not soggy at all, maybe that's the police 9C1 package but it's very sure footed especially now with the 18" wheels. Best thing my daughter and her future husband love it but I don't want to hand over the keys now! Here is the finished product;
    http://www.impalaforums.com/garage-image-5905-1303179990.jpg
  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    Regarding this "Have you considered using laws in place (depending on your state) that would have that shop do this work for free now, since they should not have certified this car with poor brakes in the first place? In most states there is a time and mileage limit for a claim to be filed.
    "

    I am not sure if i can do this, becouse they told me that the rotors needs to be changed, but they did not give me an exact cost about how much it will cost. They gave me a rough idea that it would be arround $300. Nothing else was mentioned by them. So i assume if something more is wrong. then i can look after the Law option. Thanks for your detailed post. I will try to ask my neighbour If they are willing to help me.
  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    I bought it from a private party.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Ah. Then it's your car to deal with. Older cars have issues like this but it's usually not a problem thereafter. If the original rotors lasted this long, a replacement set won't be an issue for probably as long as you own the car.
  • int64int64 Posts: 16
    HI all,

    I took my car to NTB and got it inspected. They said, its not the brake rotors, its the brake pads which needs to be changed. He said my rotor are 4.60 and they are at 4.13 right now. So it can still count on them for an year or something.

    He gave me a cost of $335 and he came down to $285. after i told him his cost was too high. He said he gonna use Adaptive One brake pads and going to change brake fluide also. As it shoul be changed every 3 years.

    I think even $285 is pricy. I am thinking to buy adaptive brake pads and some good fluide Is some local machenic will do it for a labour of arround $100. Is it a good idea to do that?
  • jatanjatan Posts: 92
    Seems expensive to me

    Put your address in google maps and then search nearby for auto repair -- try to find shops with good reviews (you can also check yelp.com but google displays reviews from multiple places including yelp)
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    The only time you replace brake fluid is when you have to. ie - when you replace half of the entire brakes lines and system.

    Get the pads yourself at the local auto parts store. Get a local mechanic to install them. It should cost 2 hours of labor, tops.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,161
    The only time you replace brake fluid is when you have to. ie - when you replace half of the entire brakes lines and system.


    Have to disagree with this... brake fluid is hygroscopic... It should be replaced every two years..

    Not that I had the same car.... but, when I checked prices for new pads on all four wheels for my Honda CR-V, a couple years ago.... the price was pretty uniform, and right around $300 (+/-$25).. I checked dealers, local tire shops, Car-X, etc...

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
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  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,431
    edited April 2011
    I'm with kyfdx. You absolutely have to change the fluid periodically. How often, however, is up for debate. My volvo was VERY particular about having it changed every 30k before the pedal would just go to mush. I am way overdue on the wife's saab, and I can feel it.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Even then, flushing out the brake system is a few minute job. It shouldn't cost you $300-$400 for the rear brakes. That's just silly.(and that mechanic will find himself out of a job soon enough with those prices)

    Find a local and hungrier mechanic who works for closer to $50-$60 an hour.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,431
    edited April 2011
    No, it shouldn't. But ~$100 is typical. So figure $100 for that and $100 for 1 hour labor charge on the pads. So that's 2 bills plus the cost of the pads. So I don't think the guy is way off base at $285, to be honest.

    Could you get a set of pads for $30? Sure. And then you buy some fluid for another $15. Then find a shop with a lower rate ... say $90/hour (I don't know any who are $50-60, but maybe that's a regional thing)... and they charge you 1.5 hours labor for $135. So now you are down to $180 plus tax, but you've done a good bit of legwork to get there.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • sjack1sjack1 Posts: 4
    edited April 2011
    I am stuck. I cannot decide between the two. Let me give you some background. I currently drive a 2000 Accord that I purchased new that has 240k miles on it. Best car ever imho. It has been a real blessing to me considering all of the repair issues I had with my other cars. I'd drive it until the wheels fell off but I promised my niece a car and she said she'd take this one and I guess it's time to get another car anyway.

    I have test driven both cars. I'm used to an Accord so it has the edge there. It also has lower insurance costs, I can get .9% financing for 60 months. The Sonata is a bit fancier looking and has a few more bells and whistles (the key thing, better stereo, etc.) and offers 2.9% financing. However, it also has a fantastic warranty 100k on the power train and 60k for non wear items compared to the Accords 72k/36k warranty. And that is a very large consideration for me. For the past 11 years I've only had to pay for regular maintenance. A few weeks ago I paid $500 for various repairs (oil leaks, hose leaks) and that is the most I have paid at one time for repairing this car. I want something that is going to last and not break down.

    I thought this was going to be simple; I was going to buy an Accord and that was that. However I am hearing people say that the Accord has slipped in reliability and that the car I have now is a better car than the new Accords. I find it hard to believe that Honda has slipped on quality but I have heard nothing but good things about the Sonata. I want a car I can keep for many years and not have to worry about repairs. Surprisingly, I can get both cars for about 23,600 plus ttl, so the Sonata will cost a bit more (2.9% vs .9% and about 150 extra a year for insurance), but if it saves me money in the long run on repairs it will be worth it. Hate to turn my back on the Accord though, after having had such a great experience with the one I have now.

    What do you guys think? And response would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to purchase soon. :confuse:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    You have an 11 year old car with 240k miles on it and you are complaining that you had to spend $500 on various repairs??

    How has your Accord done overall in reliability? Did you have a lot of problems with it over its lifetime, i.e. defects vs. just parts wearing out, as they do on an old car with lots of miles on it?

    IMO you should not base your decision only on warranty. Both the Accord and Sonata are likely to be reliable. If warranty is a big deal for you, you can get a Honda extended warranty. You say you keep cars for a long time. So buy the car that you think you will enjoy driving more, vs. the one with a longer warranty.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,890
    No, he's not complaining! He (or she) said that's the most he's ever had to spend in repairs - meaning that's a GOOD thing. If you re-read the whole post, he's saying he'd like something just as reliable as this one has been.

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  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    One other thing to consider is that this generation of Accord has been around since 08 so a lot of the bugs have been worked out. Although you want to play the odds, every manufacturer will have a lemon on occasion so there still won't be any guarantees on reliability.

    You've had a great experience with your old Honda but you were open enough to look at other cars so you're not going into this blindly. When people talk about Hyundai these days, they usually talk about how much more you get for the price. It is interesting that the Accord is going to be cheaper up front than the Sonata.

    I'm a fan of loyalty if a company serves you well in the past. If cost per year is better going into the deal, that could pay for any repairs that come along... and if none do, you are money ahead. As Backy said, if the warranty is a huge concern, you can use the money you save on an extended warranty that you can get online. (Personally, I don't think you need to do that.)

    Of course, this all assumes that you liked them equally when you did the test drives and that any additional bells and whistles on the Sonata are no big deal to you.

    Good luck and let us know what you decide.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    And if you re-read my entire post, I am saying he should do just that. :)
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    edited April 2011
    Actually, though, the current generation "Accord" is actually a model down from the Accord that's currently sold in Japan. They re-badge the Japanese Accord as the Acura TSX here in the U.S. So, if you want the same quality as the last generation Accord, you actually need to get a TSX.

    I'd recommend a 1 year old CPO TSX for the same price as a new Accord EX.

    * An Accord EX-L is $23,700 for the 4 cylinder model, and $25,600 for the V6. (truecar)
    * A 2010 CPO TSX with under 20K on it is $25K/27K(4cyl/6 cyl)
    The difference in first year registration and insurance fees will essentially make it a wash, since we're talking about a $1300-1400 difference. Actually, if you factor in depreciation and the fact that it's a whole trim level up, it's a clear win of a couple of thousand dollars in your favor of you intend to keep it for as many years as you did your last car.

    Just buy the *real* Accord and enjoy :)
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    So, if you want the same quality as the last generation Accord, you actually need to get a TSX.

    Considering that this was the same situation in the last generation of the Accord, this doesn't make much sense. The "Japanese Accord" was the TSX then too.
  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    Not exactly.

    They refreshed the Accord in Japan. This is the same model that they sell in the U.S. as the TSX.

    The old TSX was based upon an Accord as well.

    The current U.S. Accord is based upon an entirely different car a model down from the current Accord in Japan. For such a small price difference, it's penny wise and pound foolish to not get the CPO TSX instead. Because it's a step up from the previous generation Accord as you'd expect (and much nicer overall, as well)
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,677
    Just remember, Acura's call for premium fuel so be prepared. Not a big deal for some...but a conssideration for others!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • plektoplekto Posts: 3,738
    20 cents a gallon out of $4-$5 a gallon isn't worth really contemplating, to be honest.
  • sjack1sjack1 Posts: 4
    Thanks for all of the responses. I think Acura is a great car but It's out of my price range and I don't want to buy a used car. My choice comes down to either the Accord or the Sonata. The fact that the current Accords are not considered as good a car as the earlier generations is a very real concern. I'm still stuck now but I do appreciate the responses.
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