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145791013

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  • I need to share this in case someone else experiences these symptoms.

     

    Had 105,000 miles on my '96 when I noticed occasional slippage between 2nd and 3rd while accelerating. Then came the non-engaging of reverse while attempting to back out of my garage and, when it did engage, it did so with a loud slam and a jerk. So I took it to AAMCO, which had done excellent work on previous vehicles, and they informed me that I needed a complete rebuild due to numerous worn components. Right around $2k for a like-new tranny.

     

    Excellent work, and it shifted like a dream for another 5,000 miles until six months later, or just last week early January '05.

     

    Then I started noticing some slight RPM fluctuations while cruising at freeway speeds, kind of like it was trying to downshift for a few microseconds, then stabilizing again. This was on and off for a few days and then it started occuring with increased frequency. I made an appointment to take it to AAMCO and they made an initial dianosis of a malfunctioning speed sensor circuit. They asked me to drop it off the next morning since they were swamped with work.

     

    I drove it for an extra day since they said I couldn't damage anything and that I would just experience the erratic shifting. It got really worse the next day and I thought I'd have to pull onto the freeway shoulder and call home for a ride. At freeway speed it suddenly would shift out of overdrive and I'd find myself doing 65+ mph at 3,000 rpm, then it would pop back into OD whenever it felt like it. At one point I had absolutely no pull and it felt like I had put it into neutral, but I was still in Drive! Fortunately, I made it home with minimal carnage and was able to drive it to the shop.

     

    They spent all day diagnosing and troublshooting the problem and what they found surprised them and me. It was a broken wire on the speed sensor connector cable. It apparently was making minimal contact and sending erratic shift signals, which explains why sometimes it shifted normal and at other times it went ballistic. Any small bump in the road would readjust the broken wire.

     

    So after the fix, it now shifts like a charm, and they had told me the day after I picked up the vehicle that there would be no charge for the work since it was such a simple discrepancy. I felt kind of guilty about not being charged for their labor, so the morning I picked up the Jeep I gave their office two dozen assorted fresh Krispy Kreme donuts. :)

     

    Thanks for reading.

     

    Al
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    Well a happy ending for a transmission story. That's refreshing!

     

    Shifty the Host

    MODERATOR

  • my volvo 850 smokes from exhaust and has alot of pressure with dip stick down if you remove dip stick smoke seems better do you have any thoughts on my problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    I would definitely check your PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system or have it checked by a Volvo specialist. Sounds like you have excessive pressure in the crankcase---the engine is not "breathing" or ventilating properly.

    MODERATOR

  • hykadoghykadog Posts: 1
    Have 2000 Exp SUV with 95K miles. Vehicle wont start. After taking to Ford, they run diagnostic, shows no problem, then Exp will start for 3-5 days, Then repeats problem. Ford cannot find permanent fix. Any suggestions?????
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    Welcome!

    Here's what you should do:

    Use our "search forums" feature on the left of this page and type in the keywords "Technical Questions" or "No Start" and post your question in one of those forums, okay?

    You can also talk to other Explorer owners by using our "browse by vehicle" feature, also on the left.

    shifty the Host

    MODERATOR

  • I need help. I have a '97 Honda Civic EX and the transmission is shot. I have decided to buy a new car but I don't know a lot about the auto business. My question is, should I fix the transmission before trying to trade it in? Or is it more cost efficient to just take what I can get for it with the broken transmission? I know that this is a tough question to answere without all the details, but I am kind of stuck. I don't think I could get more than maybe $4500 for it if it was in perfect running condition. I just can't decide whether I should cut my losses and just trade it in as is, or spend the $900 and get it fixed first. Help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    If you are sure of those numbers, I'd fix it, because with a bad transmission it's going to be very hard to sell. You'd lose a lot of money. What you could do is offer to fix it once the buyer puts down a deposit of $900.

    OF course this advice PRESUMES the body is not all banged up and the car is scruffy. If it's a "beater" then just bail and pour yourself a drink.

    MODERATOR

  • joeyd50joeyd50 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Nissan pick XE 4X4 Auto trans V6, I just had a1992 Pathfinder motor put in my truck ( same motor ) since I had this motor put in, my truck will not stay in overdrive. With my old motor the truck would go in overdrive about 35 or 40 MPH and stay in overdrive, with the new motor the truck still goes in overdrive at 35, 40 MPH but soon as I let up on the gas the truck drops back into 3rd gear and stays there till I give it gas again. I could be going 70 MPH, the truck will be in overdrive running about 2800 RPM, as soon as I take my foot off the gas it drops down to 3rd gear and my RPM go up to about 4600 RPM. This happens with the cruise on also, I have the cruise on 65 MPH the trucks in overdrive and everything is OK, till I start to go down a little hill and it goes back into 3rd gear. It seems like whenever the truck is costing it downshifts and will not stay in overdrive. Any idea where I should start looking to fix this?
    Thanks
    Joe
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,851
    Hi Joe,
    Try this discussion:
    Transmission Traumas?

    kirstie_h
    Roving Host
    Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • 3.2 motor with oil gage not light my oil pressure drops with in 5 minutes of start up and has a slight knock now in the top end. I ran gunk crankcase cleaner thru and changed oil at first that seamed to help got 7 minutes before the pressure dropped I feel it's my oil pump and I'm hopping some one could confirm this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    Try this question in our Technical Questions Forum.

    Also post the mileage on the engine, that's important.

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks did that when I seen this message thanks again.
  • kliggkligg Posts: 4
    Mr_Shiftright,

    How do I find the replies to a question? Such as the reply to question: Jeep Grand Cherokee #1741.

    kligg
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    Well once you get to the Jeep Cherokee topic, you can punch in #1741 in the "go to msg" box, and then scroll past 1741 and see if anyone has replied. Our software just adds replies in any order--it might be one down or ten down.

    Next time you post in a topic you should subscribe to it and then when you come back you can click on "Message Center" at the bottom of the page and find it right away---that is, find all your subscriptions.l

    MODERATOR

  • kliggkligg Posts: 4
    Okay, thanks......I'm starting to get hang of the forums.....I see now...that the most recent messages are at the bottom. I normally see the from top down.....Thanks again.
  • sniffssniffs Posts: 3
    hi...the Plymouth acclaim section has been archived. how does one reactivate is to ask a new question?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    We never really had an Acclaim forum going, just a few posts about radios and hard-starting a long long time ago.

    So I'd suggest you post your question in our Technical Questions Forum

    thank you

    Shiftright the Host

    MODERATOR

  • My question is a follow up on a Aug2003 forum on VW coil packs recall. I have a Jetta VR6 GLX 2001 who is in need now of a 4th coil pack. The VR6 GLX has the 4 coils integrated in one box ignition system not the 4 (or 6) individual coils. I just learned by talking to my dealer that this "coil pack" is not covered by the VW recall, only the individual coils system are. Is this right? Since I've been changing this coil more often than my tires I would have though this pack was recognize has a problem as well. Anybody has input on this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    You might have to call VW to check on this. If it was an official recall it would be (should be) on the NHTSA website.

    Maybe someone else here knows. Have you used our "browse by vehicle" feature to the left of this page to look at all VW forums?

    Host

    MODERATOR

  • I don't think it was a VW recall now. Somebody called it a "customer service action". But thanks, I will check on other VW forum.
  • My son broke off the tip of the key in the ignition in his 1990 Toyota Celica. We had a locksmith try for about 30 minutes with no luck. we had the car towed home.

    What can I do to get the tip if the key out of the ignition? Can I get a replacement cylinder assembly and new key?

    thx,
    Dave
  • I bought a 1969 Mustang two years ago. I drove it home, parked it in the garage. Now I want to get it running. I've tried putting gas in the carburetor and it turns over till the carburetor doesn't have fuel in it.

    What do I need to do to keep the fuel flowing? I've put 5 gallons of fresh fuel in the gas tank. I've taken the fuel line off infront of the carburetor. When I press the gas no fuel shoots out of the fuel line.

    thx,
    Dave
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    You might try changing the fuel filter, also blowing backwards through the fuel line, but it sounds like your fuel pump has given up the ghost from disuse. These old style fuel pumps get very weak with age. Shouldn't be difficult or expensive to replace it.

    ALSO, once you get it running you may find that you have contaminated fuel in your fuel tank. Gas will go bad after a year or so, so you may have all kinds of gum and varnish in the gas tank that needs to be cleaned out.

    But start with the simplest things and work toward the complex.

    MODERATOR

  • cgm707cgm707 Posts: 5
    I have a 1990 Cadillac DeVille with about 86,000 miles on it. I bought it from someone who seldom drove the car obviously. However I have had to put a fair amount of money into the car. The mechanic told me that some things that have to be fixed include:

    - Transmission mount

    - Exhaust manifold

    - Struts & shocks

    The car also leaks quite a bit of oil and I am told that to fix this would be very expensive.

    Anyway, I want to sell the car and am wondering if these things should be fixed first, and what a fair price would be?

    Thanks for any help.

    Chris Milligan
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    Hi Chris,

    It all depends on whether these deficiences are readily noticeable and will spoil the prospective buyers' test drive. You are sellling a used car, not a new one, so you're not obligated to recondition the automobile. But if it clangs and bangs, or spews exhaust fumes into the passenger compartment, well of course you need to do something about that.

    I rather doubt anyone would notice if the suspension is worn on a '90 Cadillac but an exhaust leak, yes, and they may spot the oil, too.

    As for the value of the car, you can do an appraisal right here at Edmunds, using their nifty True Market Value software. You can even do a custom appraisal for your area code and compensating for mileage and condition.

    Go here for that:

    http://www.edmunds.com/tmv/used/index.html?tid=edmunds.u.mainindex.appraise..1.*

    Hope all this helps

    MrShiftright the Host

    MODERATOR

  • I have a 95 Subaru Legacy L AWD, not an Outback. Everytime I drive somewhere and stop the car for just a few minutes, it won't start and acts like it is flooded. :confuse: If I wait an hour or so, it will start right up. After each incident where it fails to start and I wait forever for it to start, the "check engine" light comes on, but goes off after a couple of days. It is really flooding out? Is there some type of fuel pressure regulator that requires replacement? Would the fuel filter have anything to do with this problem? If you have Subaru technical knowledge, please help. Thank you, Jack at "wiseguy8000@hotmail.com"
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and check for the presence of gas. If so, the regulator's leaking and requires replacement.
  • clif2clif2 Posts: 5
    Several Questions:
    ECM Code E040 - Open Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit -
    (Engine Control System and Service Soon messages also present)
    1. Where is this switch located?
    2. Under what conditions is the switch supposed to be open and closed?
    3. Can the pressure be tested in some way?

    A message "Cooling Fan Fault" is displayed on the Driver Information Center, even though the fan turns on at approximately 230 degrees and apparently turns normally (i.e., free and fast, no binding) and brings the temp back down to normal. Message appears simultaneous with fan activation.
    Questions are:
    2. Where does the signal for this message originate,
    3. what input generates it, and
    4. what steps can be taken to correct the faulty indication?

    Many thanks for any contribution.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,613
    clif,

    cut and paste your question and re-post it here:

    Technical Questions

    MrShiftright
    Host

    MODERATOR

145791013
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