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Mazda6 Wagon
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Comments
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Good luck...
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The MAZDA MANIA Chat is on tonight. Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
I haven't had a chance to get to a dealer just yet.
Oh yeah...and mine is a hatch...just realized I'm in the wagon forum.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Don't be surprised of the low MPG...
So does anyone hear know the difference between 04 and 05 wagons in this regard? Is it really possible they're not available in the 05's?
Thanks! Kathy
Erick
E
The dealer probably should have said that the side and curtain airbags are standard rather than optional for '05, but the statement "no side airbag option" seems to have left you with the impression that they are not available at all, which isn't the case.
Good luck.
mahalo,
Erick
Bose
Luxury package (leather etc)
5-spd manual
Sports package
Moonroof
Moonroof deflector
Think that's it. As I recall the sticker price was $28K or so.
C. C.
Erick
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
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Check out the posts in the "Mazda 6 sedan" forum for the past week to see what I mean.
Jason
The MT Mazda6 is definitely not the easiest car to launch from a stop. I can get going with the engine at idle but it requires a rather slow clutch release which usually takes enough time to aggravate the people behind me. Throttling up just over 1000 RPM usually permits a reasonably quick start but slips the clutch a bit more than I like to on a regular basis. Starting the clutch release at idle and slowly throttling up more as it engages is a nice compromise between the two abovementioned techniques but it's tricky and you need to be reasonably well focused on what you're doing (well, at least I do) and really feather the throttle else you load the engine too quickly or over-rev it and slip the clutch excessively. You'll probably get much better at it with practice as I have. I think as long as you're not releasing the clutch while holding the engine speed at 1500+ RPM for every start and time the rest of your shifts properly it should hold up quite well.
Have fun!
I don't disagree that maybe the mazda build too didn't allow certain colors, but somehow there is/was inventory with those combinations. Perhaps your exterior color choice conflicted with the interior choice?
RHV
RHV
The people who followed Ford's reccomendations on inflation with Firestones are the ones that had problems - underinflation causes more heat and makes the tire more likely to fall apart.
Overinflation can result in the center of the tread surface on the tires bulging out more than intended if the vehicle's weight does not put enough load on them to compensate for the excess pressure. This can reduce traction and tread life, and increase the chances of tire damage when impacting potholes.
The max inflation pressure specifies what you can get the tires up to safely (on any vehicle) when it is standing still, but it doesn't mean you can operate your vehicle safely on the road that way.
I recommend that you stay close to the manufacturer specifications. It's probably rare that they get it wrong, and I don't think you'll find more reliable information than theirs to base your decision on. It may not be wise to trade off some of your vehicle's traction and tire longevity just to get a small increase in mileage.
Yes the tire may wear slightly more in the middle if it is near the top of the inflation range, but in reality it is just wearing less on the sides, so the tire is not wearing out any faster.
And no the number on the sidewall is not a static number it is perfectly safe to inflate to that number and drive a vehicle all day long within the tires speed range.
Car tires don't pop from overinflation - a bicycle tire goes to 120 psi and it has about 10% of the strength of a car tire (or less).
Manufacturers reccomendations are not just for the best performance (again look at the Explorer) they want the car to have a smooth ride so people won't complain how stiffly the car rides. Also imperfections in tire balance and alignment are more noticeable with higher inflations, so a higher number on the door jamb would mean more warrenty work for those items.
I am eligible for the S-plan. With that and the $4250 in rebates, do you think it's reasonable to expect to get one of these for 18-19K out the door, or am I too low? I'm in Texas.
Also would like to know from others in MN, what they are paying these days.
Hox
I didn't necessarily get a better deal by driving to Iowa, but I did get the only '04 MT Wagon without a moonroof that I could find. If you can live with a moonroof in an '04, or if you are looking at '05s, then you could very well find what you want in the the area. Luther, Walser, and Polar all seemed to be right around invoice minus rebates for their prices. I would have bought locally were it not for the lack of a moonroof-less MT wagon.
I spent around $85 on the one-way trip down there (rental + gas).
RHV
BTW, it's light years better than the seats in my old Grand AM. My legs fell asleep constantly, and I never had any decent back support.
- I'd question how much improvement you really get between Mazda's recommended pressure and Michelin's max inflation pressure. Do you really think it's enough to suggest disregarding Mazda's recommendation?
"Yes the tire may wear slightly more in the middle if it is near the top of the inflation range,but in reality it is just wearing less on the sides, so the tire is not wearing out any faster."
- I'd be surprised if the trade off between sidewall and tread wear is that simple. I always keep my tires at the auto manufacturer's recommended pressure and they almost always degrade faster on the tread than on the sidewall. I'm sure it would be different if I kept them underinflated, but I doubt that inflating them more than the manufacturer recommends would help me much since I almost always run out of tread first.
"And no the number on the sidewall is not a static number"
- Not sure what you mean here. If it is set by the tire manufacturer and doesn't change, wouldn't that qualify it static?
"it is perfectly safe to inflate to that number and drive a vehicle all day long within the tires speed range."
- Is it really a good idea to tell everyone here that it's "completely safe" to drive around with their tires at max inflation pressure? I hope you're sure about that. A quick search on some tire manufacturer sites reveals that they too suggest that their tires should be inflated to the vehicle manufacturer's recommended pressure.
"Car tires don't pop from overinflation"
- I never said that, so I'm not sure what you're arguing there, although I think you'd have to concede that if you put enough air pressure inside anything it will eventually rupture somehow.
"Manufacturers reccomendations are not just for the best performance"
- Yes, I realize that manufacturer's don't just consider handling when determining recommended tire pressures. I'm sure that avoiding warranty work is also a motivating factor, but how do we know what priority that was given by Mazda over other factors when deciding what tire pressure to recommend to consumers?
I also must say that I don't believe the Ford Explorer incident is a good example of why consumers don't need to follow auto manufacturer tire pressure recommendations. Most reports I've read on that subject only mention underinflation as a possible contributing factor to the failures, not the root cause. Remember that Ford also used Goodyear tires on the Explorer, and there were only one or two reported failures with the Goodyear tires despite the fact that they used the same recommended inflation pressure for each.
I'd love to know about the issues and concerns that you owners have and if you think Consumer reports survey is overblown.
hox
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