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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

19798100102103283

Comments

  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,457
    You should be able to stop the flashing by locking and unlocking the car using the keyless entry remote.

    DaveM
  • orntornt Posts: 3
    Thanks Dave. Worked like a charm.
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    I'll check into the welding. That's something I never thought of. As far as removing it, is there anything besides the metal that may be surrounding the pipe I should be worried about?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    My 00 OB has had a rattling heat shield on the left downpipe (the first shield) for a year or so now. I crimped the two halves together tighter which worked for a short while, but now it's bad again. So I got under again and this time I could see that there are two spot welds on the top of the shield that are meant to hold it to the pipe. These are broken because if I grasp the shield (CAUTION - NOT IF HOT!) I can move it up and down slightly. The right one is completely rigid. The dealer-offered fix is to weld it or wedge it with something non-combustible. It's no longer covered by warranty.

    Because I was using a bright light, I also noticed oil leaks. The sump bolts at the front of the engine and the oil pan itself are quite oily, both the drive shaft seals are leaking slightly, and there is evidence of a slight leak on the upper left of the 5-speed transmission. I think these are all covered under the major component warranty still in effect. I have 44,000 km on the car.

    Has anyone experienced similar leaks? I think I remember some discussion about incorrect drive shaft grease from the factory.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    On the front end I bet it's the O-ring seal for the oil pump. Ask them to check there.

    Never seen a tranny leak though.

    -juice
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Thanks Juice. Maybe I'll see if I can spot that before I take it in. I'll probably wait until summer because the dealership is opening a service shop much nearer to my home.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Just keep an eye on the oil level and the temp guage.

    -juice
  • mjansen1mjansen1 Posts: 46
    Just received a check from SOA for a blown head gasket over a year ago around 62k. I think we paid around 25% of the bill since we were over 60K. SOA came through in the end (after a lot of work on my part). Need to get that special coolant added.
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Nice to hear that they took care of you, even if it was over an extended period of time. Just goes to show another example of Subaru's customer support.

    Mark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's cool. Don't wait too long to have that conditioner added.

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    It is entirely possible that something has gotten 'gummy' in the valve body due to deposits/dirt. When you rev the engine slightly, the pump pressure rises, and everything then moves into place. Before going for a teardown, I would suggest finding a shop that has the transmission solvent flush system. I have heard that it can work wonders in just such a situation. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

    Steve
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Posts: 112
    WtW2:

    I have a 2000 OBW Ltd. that I bought used in March 2003 with 32K on the odo. In the past few months I have noticed the same paint flaking and bubbling off on my front bumper (I have not noticed any problem with the "chrome" on my grill, though). There is a layer of paint very similar in color but somewhat dissimilar in metal flake graininess where the top coat has flaked off.

    I posted on this board a few weeks ago, and the consensus was that it had probably been repainted. If so, then the guy I bought it from conveniently omitted that information.

    Now, though, based on your post, it may be that this can occur even with the original paint. Where your paint is flaking off, what do you see underneath? Bare black plastic? Primer? Or more paint that is just a little bit different than the top coat?

    I haven't really spent too much time on this problem -- I've got too many other irons in the fire. But, I'm a teacher, and summer break is coming, so I may have some time to fuss over this in a few weeks.

    K9Leader
    Newark, Delaware
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I bet you're seeing the clear coat flake off. The color's still there.

    Just my guess.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    K9 leader, didn't realize you were in Newark, DE you should have met us during the 48hrs in Philly and down to the ferry in DE!

    -mike
  • deepdropdeepdrop Posts: 89
    I was surprised to see that the JD Powers rating for the "02 Outback VDC was not very good (2-3/5) and the Edmund's rating was only 7.2/10. I have an "03 Forester and I love it. We are moving to New Hampshire and I want to get a car for my wife. We are looking at a 2002 Outback VDC with 35,000 miles. It looks like we can buy it for about $19,000 but I'm concerned about the JD Powers rating. Are there any know issues that I should check out on this car before I buy it from a private seller? Thanks for any advice.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------ -------
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Don't forget that the # of VDCs sold is very small, so that any "bad" mark will be exentuated by that fact.

    -mike
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Mike, you'll enjoy this. I attempted to replace my pads and rotors today. Took the day off. Front right first. Wheel off, caliper off. Next is the caliper bracket. Went to remove the lower bolt and, snap, the bolt head breaks off. So I remove the bracket and compared my new rotor to the old. The new one is ~0.5 inches smaller in diameter. Wrong one. So I take the bracket, via my bicycle, to an auto store machine shop over in the next town. No problem, he removes the broken bolt. However, he doesn't have any replacement bolts left. Calls another store and sure enough they have one. Only problem is it's the next town further away. So back on the bike with this 10 pound bracket on my back to the next town for the bolt. I then had to bike all the way home. I am writing this with sore legs and the old pads and rotors still on the car and a vacation day used up. Oh, and I came home to see my back yard being ripped up for a pool we are trying to install. :)

    Greg
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Stop by on saturday and I'll hook yah up if you want.... Told yah it's easier sometimes to get people like us to do em.

    We had the same problem recently actually, our supplier sent us the wrong rotors for an OBS, had to go get a set at pepboys on the fly.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Too bad you don't have a 2nd car. When I work on one, inevitably I forget something, and have the other to make a parts run.

    -juice
  • blackbeanblackbean Posts: 100
    Last year I went to replace my '02 Bean front rotors with new EBC rotors from TireRack (hoping they would be more warp resistant) - but sure enough, when I went to put them on, they were too small! Lucky I didn't break any bolts - but the thought did cross my mind as I tried to break those free!

    Now with 26k, I am getting that pulsing from highway speed braking. Hopefully dealer will replace (again) under warranty at 30k check-up.

    STILL looking for better aftermarket rotors though.
    Cheers
    Matt
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Posts: 215
    Hello,

    I was wondering the opinion out there on the mid-service levels. I have 48k on my '01 and my service people are suggesting this service. When I went to the mysubaru.com site the services listed are pretty slim:
    Inspect Steering and suspension
       
       
      Inspect Clutch operation
       
       
      Perform Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system
       
       
      Inspect Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions
       
       
      Replace Engine oil filter
       
       
      Replace Engine oil
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure what size the rotors are for the Outbacks if they are smaller or larger than the WRX, but you might want to find the brackets for the WRX and put on a set of WRX rotors. There are several rotors out there that are upgrades for them. Also try Mountain Rotors as they have been very warp-resistant for the applications I've installed them in.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's actually changed at least once. I think the 2000's rotors were sort of small, then they got bigger a year or two later. Beyond that, I think the VDC's brakes are bigger than the ones on the base Outback, but I could be wrong.

    -juice
  • blackbeanblackbean Posts: 100
    Yes, the Bean and VDC rotors got bigger (in 2001 I think).
    After reading the posts on the rotors, got me thinking that maybe they have some of the larger aftermarket rotors available now. TireRack now shows EBC and PowerSlot rotors available for the Bean and VDC. I emailed PowerSlot to make sure these would fit. They said yes, but their website said they make their rotors from Subaru parts! Here is my email and their response. What do you all think???
    Matt

    On the website, it says your rotors are made from "OE blanks" - so, can I expect these to have any better warp resistance than stock Subaru rotors?

    "POWER SLOT rotors are OE blanks but our exclusive Vac-U-Slot design
    sheds heat and gasses faster while maintaining a clean pad surface,
    significantly reducing brake fade. When paired with a high performance,semi-metallic brake pad you will see quicker stops, less fade, and extended pad/rotor life. However rotors are a wear item and wear like tires so eventually you will have to replace them. But POWER SLOTs should at least double if not triple in miles compared to the OEMs already on your car. Warping should not be a problem as long as you use the correct brake pads and install them correctly."
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Sounds like baloney to me. Especially if they use OEM rotors to start, which have already been machined and heat treated (so 99% of the thermal characteristics are set in stone). If they just machine some slots in the surface, I see low value in that.

    Craig
  • blackbeanblackbean Posts: 100
    Craig
    That is my initial reaction as well. I was *hoping* they used a more structurally sound metal compostion or something. Oh well, I'll keep looking.
    Matt
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Mike, thanks for the offer, but I needed to get the car inspected this week and my life is so crazy right now I'm thinking of going on strike. So I ended up purchasing OEM and having the shop next to my work install them (he does good work, mainly on German cars).

    It turns out that Subaru made a change mid year 01 and went with larger rotors. When I returned the after market rotors today (which seemed to be good quality) the auto store looked it up and concluded that next time I should order 02 year rotors for my 01 model car which he said are larger. Comparing the 2 it appears Subaru has some kind of coating on the rotors and it also appeared the after market rotors seemed a little thicker at the expense of the slot area, but I didn't measure it and it could have been an optical illusion. So does that make my car an 02 now??

    Greg
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Posts: 122
    I like that PowerSlot takes Subaru OEM rotors and upgrades them. Any rotor will be improved by proper machining.

    The biggest single cause of rotor failure is overheating. By putting slots in the rotors, the surface area of the rotor is increased, which allows greater heat dissipation to the surrounding air.
    In addition, the slots allow the brakes pads to be cleansed by carrying away dirt that would otherwise be trapped between the pad and the rotor surface.

    That being said, it is very important that the rotor is not weakened by removing too much of the original material. In addition, the rotors must remain balanced. So I wouldn't recommend that you just take your rotors to your drill press and start drilling.

    gearhead4
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I don't think the slots add that much surface area compared to what the rotor already has. Since heat transfer is going to depend directly on the surface area, it would have to increase quite a bit (say 10-15% or more) to really make a significant impact in my opinion.

    Craig
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They use OE rotors and mill them down. :(

    How are the VDC rotors compared in size to WRX ones? If they are the same size you can try the racingbrake.com ones, so far we've been running them at the track on long hard sessions w/o overheating nor any pad transfer problems. They are made of an upgraded material (nickle alloy IIRC) and are quite stout.

    Most rotors NEVER EVER warp, they get pad transfer which causes raised areas in the surface of the rotor and APPEAR to warp, however re-bedding in your pads and/or lightly sanding the rotors and pads will clear it up.

    -mike
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