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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I've been tied up on a few things. For what it's worth to everyone - when you have a concern,

    Call the dealer Service/Sales Manager to register your complaint and give them a shot at addressing the problem.

    If your not happy, call 1-800-SUBARU3 and get a case started. One of our Reps. can call the dealer and make sure that all resources were used in trying to find a solution. Worse case scenerio (if something can't be duplicated) you've got the issue on record if there is a problem down the road.

    If our telephone lines are backed up, just send us an e-mail via the "contact us" section of Subaru.com. Make sure you include your VIN, mileage, name of the dealer that you're working with and the name of the folks at the dealer you've contacted.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Don,

    Ideally, you do want them matched as close as possible. Many better tire shops can shave your new tire to match the remaining set on your car.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Last summer? Has it been a year yet? Usually they are guaranteed for a year or so.

    They might have installed cheap pads, but I'm surprised they wore so quickly.

    But...could be a pebble or something stuck between the pads.

    -juice
  • hammerheadhammerhead Posts: 888
    My trusted tranny guy swears by a tranny service, including the filter, every 15K, period. A flush doesn't change the filter. Just had my wife's car done yesterday, in anticipation of the summer camping/towing season. Given a choice, I'd elect the service with the filter change. Cheap insurance.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    What's the function of the spin-on tranny filter vs the internal tranny filter? Subaru lists the spin-on as a "no maintenance required" filter.

    I would think if you're going to change one, you'd also change the other?

    Just curious

    Larry
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    sounds like a defective battery that can't hold a charge to me....

    Craig
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    Actually, something is draining the battery. A light bulb, after market radio or something.

    Remember the lady in Alaska?? who had this problem...finally traced to a Blaupunkt stereo or something that was drawing waaaay more than it should have,

    Jim
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    Remembering the lady in Alaska - if that was an aftermarket stereo, wouldn't Subaru be off the hook for warranty support on that one? It did take a long time to find, but in the final deal if it was aftermarket equipment wouldn't she be responsible for the diagnostic time?

    Unless of curse it was installed as a local dealer option - I know sometimes they'll count that under some portion of the warranty.

    Just curious

    Larry
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732
    Larry,

    This is just a guess, but I would be willing to bet that the spin-on filter cartridge has multi-X more total surface area, and probably presents a big improvement in filtering capacity with lower flow restriction than the gauze filter I have seen in some pans. So by those standards, it becomes "life time" under normal conditions. Of course, if you cook the tranny, replace every drop of fluid you can - pan, torque converter & filter.

    Steve
  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    Discussed this with my dealer. Although it is considered a lifetime filter, the dealer guessed that at some point they will recommend a replacement schedule. Just makes sense to me to change it when changing the fluid - it's so easy.

    Greg
  • rob_mrob_m Somewhere North of BostonPosts: 795
    I am not so sure what is considered 'lifetime'. The filter on my 99 GT let go about 3 weeks ago at 103k. I just had a full tranny service at 99.5k. Dealer said that they usually don't usually replace this, and this never happens!
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    We're at 1-800-SUBARU3 and see that it's addressed. Sorry.

    Patti

    PS - To those asking about the the Alaska mess? It wasn't a warranty issue.FWIW
  • gof4gof4 Broomall, PAPosts: 22
    I have a '01 bean which has given me over 40,000 reliable miles with the exception of the brakes which I consider the worst of any car that I've owned in my 42 years of driving.
    I checked with tire rack & they indicate that Brembo rotors are available. As for pads, they have a brand called Akebono Proact ceramic. Has anyone tried these or anyother brand which proves more reliable than what Subaru has to offer. I refuse to keep paying to have rotors cut every 16-18,000 miles. I did purchase a torque wrench, so hopefully over-torqued lug nuts will no longer be a concern.
    Thanks all.
    Bob
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    4-5 years is about right for a battery especially if you're in the Northeast. I don't think I have ever had a battery last more than 5 years.

    Craig
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,459
    '96 Outback - 6.5 years and 128k miles - still on the original battery when I sold it.

    Dad's '94 Lincoln - 80k miles? - sold to uncle but I believe it's still on the original battery.

    Brother's '98 Jeep GC - 102k miles - still on the original battery.

    All in PA with -10 to 110 temperature extremes.

    Of course, YMMV

    DaveM
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Should be good for your outback.
    We sell th Akebonos for our street-only drivers at AZP Installs.

    -mike
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    can be sensitive to low electrolyte (water), over charging, excessive discharge, problems with the charging system, as well as manufacturing defects.

    There are many, many potential causes for YMMV.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If the car's been reliable, go ahead and invest in the brakes mike is suggesting, he outta know given AZP installs them every weekend.

    I got 4-5 years from my battery, mostly my fault for neglecting the fluid level. If it's 5 years or older you could have it load-tested for free at most retailers.

    -juice
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    Bob and Subaru Forum:

    Although I am not a Subaru owner, but rather a regular contributor the the Toyota Avalon forum, I have experienced very similar problems with the Toyota Avalon. I also read the Honda Accord Forum and the new Accord has the same problems. Many opinions are my own but this is what I know from the facts that are presented to me.

    1. Many of the OEM rotors the Japanese companies are using are inferior in their metalurgy. Basically, they contract out for cheaper parts and use them now. The metal is not the same as old, and since many of the cars, are front or all wheel drive, the heat cooks the rotors and warps them, especially on automatic transmissions.

    2. I had major problems with Toyota and the local dealership with this, and went through multiple tire, wheel, and alignment changes, most at their expense but not all. Finally, I took the rotors off myself, and had them put on a brake lathe and such enough, one of the front rotors was severely warped, probably from the factory or whoever manufactured them and did not let them cool correctly. I had the problem since I got the car.

    3. I have put on rotors, aftermarket, specially SP rotors drilled and slotted, both front and rear with new pads. I also changed the fluid and got speed bleeders to do it. Realize, I am an US Army officer who is lucky enough to have Auto Crafts shops with lifts at the bases so I can put the car up on the rack and sometimes if the mechanics are in a good mood, they help out.

    4. I cannot recommend enough buying premium quality rotors and pads, and either doing it yourself correctly, or taking it to someone who has your trust and is very skilled to put them on, apply anti-squeal grease as needed on the back of the pads and grease the pins to the calipers, etc. You will notice a very big difference that the inferior quality stuff they give you when you buy the car.

    5. The parts that you mention and the company is reputable. If you don't mind a little "woring" noise when the brake is applied, then I would recommend slotted and/or drilled rotors, otherwise plain rotors should do that are better metal. Premium pads will help grip better, slotted rotors help dissipate gas from the pad and water so you will notice a remarkable difference during wet weather braking. Chance the fluid, as per what the manufacturer reccomends every 3 years regardless of mileage. Never, turn the rotors, IMO, it is not worth it on the most important part of your car. I bought my last set from a company in Syracuse, called Raceshopper, but any company that carries premium products, such as Brembo, SP rotors, Powerslot, etc will be a vast improvement.

    Good luck

    "Feed your forum"

    abfisch
  • mcrairmcrair Posts: 4
    We have an 00 Outback with about 60k miles. We do a lot of city driving in warm weather. We had to replace the battery and the alternator at about 40k miles (out of warranty service). I didn't thing a dead battery at 40k was too out of the norm, but wasn't happy about having to replace the alternator...

    Mike
  • ozman62ozman62 Posts: 229
    Thanks for dropping in, it's nice to know that this isn't a Subaru-only thing.
    Owen
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I think the batteries in Subies are from Johnson Controls. At least the one in my '00 Outback was. It was fine during the 4 years of ownership, although it did need some water to top off the cells after about 2 years.

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think the 2000 Outback gained weight compared to the '99, that puts more stress on the brakes. Then in 2001 or 2002 they made the rotors bigger.

    For 2005, the rotors are bigger still, better yet the cars got lighter.

    We haven't had any issues with brakes with the 5 Subies in our family, though 2 are relatively new.

    -juice
  • xenakimboxenakimbo Posts: 3
    Has anyone used Bosch plugs and wires on their Subaru? How are they? What is best for Subies other than factory ones? Why are Bosch plugs for Subies so much more expensive than for other cars?
  • ckayakckayak Posts: 4
    nathh

    Just now found this Board so I hope you've contacted Subaru. I had the same thing happen ($1500 including timing belt) at 67,000 miles (I have a '98 GT wagon). I was outraged that this had to be done. Well enough stewing about it (several months) and I finally wrote to Subaru. Outstanding customer service. One more thing I am not the original owner. They paid me for almost the whole job (because I had it done at an independent) *and* I asked them to reimburse me for the second opinion I sought from a dealership - which they did. My reasoning being that it was far too expensive a job. Even if a dealership was going to do the work I would have taken it to another one for a second opinion.

    The reason they didn't reimburse me for the whole amount: It would have taken fewer hours hours at a dealership. Of course it would have cost $500 more *and* they would have had my car for a week. Go figure. My shop did it in 3 days and saved me $500!
  • gof4gof4 Broomall, PAPosts: 22
    Mike,
    Can you give me an idea on cost? I live about 15 miles outside of Philadelphia & I don't know who to go to for the work . Don't want to use the chain stores like Pep-boys. Would I have to do all four wheels or would doing the front wheels be enough. One of the other posts suggested slotted rotors vs solid. What's your thoughts. Also, besides the pads & rotors are there any other componet parts that would need upgrading?
    Thanks.
    Bob
    p.s thanks to abfisch for your comments.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm not that far from you over in NJ and we may be able to help you out.

    -mike
  • alger1alger1 Posts: 10
    I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 97' OUTBACK, MY 1st SUBARU. I NOTICED A SLIGHT VIBRATION WHEN I TURNED TO THE RIGHT, ABOUT A WEEK LATER. THE VIBRATION TURNED INTO A SCRAPING SOUND SOON AFTER, BEING A "DO IT YOURSELFER", I CHANGED THE DRIVERS SIDE FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY. THIS DIDN'T HELP; SO, I REPLACED BOTH FRONT ROTORS. THIS ALSO DIDN'T HELP. WHATS NEXT???? THE WHEEL BEARINGS??? THE SOUND/VIBRATION IS ONLY PRESENT WHEN THE WHEEL IS TURNED AND INCREASES WITH SPEED. CAN ANYONE HELP DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM BEFORE I ABANDON SUBARU'S ALTOGETHER???
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That's a wheel bearing.

    -mike
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,663
    First off, it would help if you turned off the cap lock. Second, you bought a 7-year old car. Expect problems...

    Sorry if I don't sound sympathetic, but these kinds of problems could happen on any car that old, not just Subarus. As Mike said, it sounds like a wheel bearing.

    Bob
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