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Comments
I guess I'm lucky. My 2001 LLBean just turned 26K, and except for new front rotors and pads it has been flawless... AND I got 24.7 MPG (highway) with my last fillup (it has averaged around 21 MPG since ~ 10K break in). Seems the faster I drive and the higher the outside temperature (and the higher the AC cranks) the better the mileage...can't figure it out. No correlation...
Hope everyone out there resolves their problems, sells their "lemons", whatever....
-mike
Thanks!
Patti
I understand there are certain noises a suspension makes, but sometimes it feels as if someone was banging the steering column with a hammer.
It’s frustrating because I really do like the car.
I brought it to the dealer. They said nothing was wrong. Shortly thereafter, it developed a rhythmic clicking or metallic tapping noise when driving 20-40 mph w/ the steering wheel slightly right of center, in the same LF wheel. Brought it to the dealer. They said the noise was due to a warped rotor, they could turn them for over $100! The car had exhibited no signs of warped rotors (shimmying when braking, loping up to stoplights, etc.) No thanks.
One thing fixed and both questions answered for $20: Brought it to national chain brake / suspension place. Clicking was fixed with a clip on the brake caliper. Clunk sound: bad strut. The dealer had overlooked the leaking, oily strut both times, and tried to sell me overpriced turning of rotors that were just fine, while overlooking the simple, cheap solution easily diagnosed by the other shop.
Can anyone recommend a competent, honest Subaru dealer in SLC, UT? Anyone else with front end noise try strut replacement? Thanks for your time. Sorry this was so verbose.
Subaru Legacy wagon by taking a considerable loss, and trading it in for a Honda CR-V. I
was counting on my past experience with Honda, and Toyota. Then, I checked in with
Edmunds, and discovered that the Honda CR-V has had problems, many of them
computer-related (ABS light coming on, etc). Also, I’ve been annoyed by “whistling”
type noises in my Legacy, only to find that the CR-V has them also.
My next step is to check in on Toyoto’s RAV4. The problem being that I do not
like its design.
I would just like Subaru/Honda/Toyota to come out with a simple station wagon,
clean lines, no computer problems. No noises. I’ve had this in the past with Hondas and
Toyotas. Emma
We have a 97 Outback with 76K on it. Starting yesterday, we noticed a low-frequency noise coming from the rear left wheel area when we turned the car to the right. It seems to be at the same frequency as the tires rotating. I looked under the car for tires rubbing --- none. Is it possibly the rear differential? Thanks for the help, bernball
-mike
Ralph
Jon
Thanks,
Bob
Also - what about the rear brake pads on that side. If they're worn to the metal you'll get a noise and the slight slack of a normal wheel bearing may allow the rotor to rock a bit and come in contact with the worn pad.
I have a 2000 Legacy GT. Not only does it feel like it is being hit with a hammer, but it also feels loose when driving over bumps.
This is one of those quirks I could easily live without.
Bill
We also use the information we get through our case tracking system to document situations and it helps us find solutions for other customers.
We would really appreciate folks letting us know directly when they have a problem that their dealer cannot fix.
Thanks!
Patti
I hope you are in the same time frame as us with regard to your state's lemon law, ours has been at the dealer for another weekend-10 business days and counting-and all that has been done is a pressure test. Surprise, surprise, the system is tight.
We get to send our letter on Friday, at least in seven days the issue will be resolved; if in fact that is the route they wish to take.
Waiting for a decision by Fuji Heavy.
I put a tank of 92 octane gas in 2 weeks ago and got a check engine light the next morning. Took it to the dealer and they said the "check engine" was due a code related to fuel.
They suggested not going over 89 Octane.
It got down to half a tank and I put in 87 Octane to balance it out.
Got the check engine light again.
Any advice on Fuel to keep the LL Bean happy? Thx.
I really doubt if the octane level of the fuel was the reason, but more likely you bought some contaminated fuel that is still in your system. How is the car running - any changes? If not, then you might try to wait for a tank or two to run through the system (buying gas from another station), or take the car to another mechanic for second opinion.
I've used 91 octane (premium in my area) from various stations in my area for my Bean without any problems.
Steve
The car seems to run the same. Perhaps a tick louder than originally. Oil and coolant are fine.
It takes me a few weeks to go through a tank so I guess.
What sort of contamination can gas have?
Thanks.
The most common fuel related problem seems to be with the gas cap. If that is the case your light should go out either after getting below a half tank or a short time after refilling. We've been using premium fuel (92 octane) since we owned our Bean without a fuel related problem (6000+ miles now). Good luck
Steve
Perhaps I did just get a bad batch of fuel.
I will be back at the dealer for an odd problem so if it is still causing trouble I will have them check it out.
The odd problem? My rear "Outback" logo is seperating from its adhesive. They plan to heat-gun it off and put on a new one.
-- Joe
Gas contamination is typically water or other non-volatiles present, which naturally upsets the engine trying to burn it off.
As ochssk said, loose gas caps are another cause of CEL lights.
Where do you guys find 92 octane gas? You're not on the West Coast, are you? All I find here is 91.
Steve
My father advises running what he affectionately terms "monkey pee" in any vehicle - WRX to Crown Vic - 87 Octane.
Has your dealer found a problem? You are referring to a "growing list" of folks with this concerns, yet our database (national) is not showing a "growing list" of this concern.
I understand how frustrating vehicle problems can be, but all we are asking is for the opportunity to try and remedy the situation. If you have a case with us and it is under another name, please call us and ask the Rep. to bring the case to my attention. I want to help - but postings here on Edmunds without a VIN or dealer information does not give me much to go on.
I don't understand why you will not take us up on an offer for assistance vs. filing suit?
Patti
I am one of the 4 or 5 that have reported on the H6 coolant loss. Your attitude is not helping at all. Ranting and threatening rarely gets anything accomplished; it just polarizes everyone. Please, sit down, take a deep breadth, and follow Patti's recommendations.
Patti:
My VDC has 15k miles. It has lost 3 reservoir tanks over that time, but is not consistent. My dealer has leaked checked it twice with no problems. At this point, I am just watching it and plan to get back with the dealer for more action when it starts dropping again. I believe that they will work with me. My question to you is whether you want me to start a case file or wait. There is definitely something going on that is clearly not widespread, but is a concern to those with the problem.
Thanks,
Mike
I promise you that we will do everything that we can to get it addressed!
Patti
Thanks!
Patti
bit
Patti
Go over a bump, or turn hard, and the sway bar twists and slide in its track (which is basically two rubber bushings holding it in place). Sans grease, it'll squeek like nails on a chalk board.
So grease 'em up at every oil change.
Also could be a dirty spring base (hose it out every time you wash the car and spray some lithium grease there too).
Finally, it could be the wheel hub/bearing, which is a warranty issue that Subaru has covered in the past (for folks like lark6, for example).
If you get a CEL for gas, it's probably condensation (water) in the gas. The feds require that a CEL is triggered even for a single misfire. Try some Dry Gas, it worked for Kate.
-juice
Here is my rear sway bar. I am tightening the bolt that secures the bushings on the passenger side. You can see the white grease around the rubber bushings in this photo - and you can notice that the sway bar moves about 1/2" to each side, for a total motion of about an inch. Sans grease, that rubber to metal contact WILL squeek!
-juice
PS Grease is the word!
So dealers will check those hoses if they detect a vacuum leak code.
-juice
Subaru & you get "two thumbs up"
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks again!
Patti
This has gone on far too long, no one is motivated to act-Subaru is and has been involved- and going with the Lemon Law is the fastest way to end this. But thank you for your offer to help.
In about seven days this will all be just an unpleasant memory.
I'm sorry you did not want us to help you.
Patti
-mike
Robert-if you expect any of us to believe you at this point, the least you can do is give your VIN to Patti!! How hard is that?
-mike
thanks for the picture. since your not using a torque wrench how much leverage are you using to tighten the bolt? great job on the cleanliness of your car. the bottom of your car is cleaner than the top of mine. I'll grease the sway bar on my OB this weekend.
I've been following Robert's posts and I also don't understand the reason for withholding a VIN from Patti. I'm kind of surprised Robert's attorney hasn't asked if SOA has been involved in trying to rectify the problem. I'm sure the arbitrators, or judge, depending on the jurisdiction, will certainly ask the question.
I can fully appreciate the frustration when a problem needs to be corrected because I've had my share of frustration with my OB but the people from SOA did prove themselves to be different from other auto companies.
Vince
The factories have different incentives shaping their behavior that are more in line with the owner. To them, customer satisfaction is the #1 goal to keep you in the brand. But by law they must work through the dealers to resolve issues and technical issues to make this happen. If they had their way, dealers would be abolished and their cars would be sold by factory owned stores so they could control the quality of your ownership experience. Unfortunately they can't. This is the #1 frustration they have with the system of independent dealers in the US and consumers also get the brunt of it from time to time.
The moral of the story is that if you have a technical issue with a vehicle - call the manufacturer. The dealer may or may not give a rip but they'll all ACT like they do for a time. Go to the manufacturer and you'll be talking with folks who want to help you - not make more money off your situation. In life, once two people on different sides of a situation have their motivations aligned (Ex: manufacturer and owner) then good things happen.
I could go on for pages, but thought this might shed some light on things from a 30,000 foot perspective.
IdahoDoug
Doesn't smell like a troll. More like what the English prosaically describe as a "plonker". This conveys nicely the impression of someone too silly to realize how stupid they sound.
If a poster to these pages is genuinely suffering from some defect to their vehicle, a refusal to assist the manufacturer by identifying themself and the alleged defective product (VIN Number), implies some less worthy motive. I wonder what it is?
Cheers
Graham
Bill
I am a real person, who has owned five new Outbacks and who has a very real problem with Subaru's most expensive vehicle. The car has now been in the shop-third time, eight business days and all that has been done is a pressure test, which it passed of course. Subaru 'suggested' that we pick up the car, we 'suggested' they find the reason for the coolant loss and the reason for antifreeze being in the oil, the vehcile remains and will remain at the dealer until something definitive comes from Fuji Heavy.
Patti, fortunately the State in which we reside views any action performed by a dealer who is acting upon a stated problem to be a repair or an attempt at repair. For instance when the dealer added coolant many months ago and sent us on our way it is considered to be a repair (they had a report of glycol in the oil). Even your Company would not (???) dispute the changing of a part as a repair so trip number two should be moot-even for Subaru. So far trip three has only resulted in a pressure test being done, good for us-action by dealer for stated problem, bad for you; it added to the Lemon Law tally. Keep in mind that two additional lab reports indicated continuing glycol contamination.
And thank you for your offer, I selected not to respond for privacy reasons and no other, the Company is involved.
Subaru and only Subaru has made the choice that this shall go to arbitration.
Many of you seem to blame dealers for unresolved problems. Think we are frustrated you should see our service guy, like he says, he is getting paid to be aggrevated we are paying to be aggrevated-I like that. We have purchased from three different organizations and all have been very good,sales and service. The problem boy and girls is that Subaru pays a very small portion of a service order in warranty relative to what would be charged for the same action out of warranty. Think about this next time you are hammering the sales department for the 'hold back'-and no I am not in this business but am a tech service and support person. Do I expect the dealer to tear down the engine on their own, no, they, as the 'Team' have their marching orders from Cherry Hill and have no choice but to act in lock step. Every service dept would opt to have a satisfied customer, but in some situations they are prohibited from attaining this goal.
In defense of Subaru, this automobile is a very complex product, the engineers, plant support people and customer service all would also opt to be able to have 100% satisfied customers. In fact since '99 in Massachusetts, the first State to send me records of all complaints , Subaru has only 12 Lemon Law actions, to me this is incredible and I fully expect that the same profile will be revealed by the other States I have contacted.
They have done a fantastic job in the past, just not in this particular instance.
Doubt my credibility if you must, I suppose one must have this mindset on the web, but please remember there are a number of others with the same problem.
H6 owners heed this advice well, it is what has assured us of a successful action;
Get your oil tested for contamination.
Now Mike, this has been a rant and rave.
Good bye and good luck.
-Brian
bit