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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • tomrtomr Posts: 20
    I don't know what happened but as soon as the warm weather came the rattle disappeared. I am however finding the seat uncomfortable maybe a seat cushion will help.
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    I personally LOVED those tires, although I ended up trading the car in on the WRX after only 10K miles with them. In that time, though, the Michelins seemed perfectly matched to the Outback...outstanding ride, quiet, and great snow traction. Those are 3 qualities I could not say about the Dunlops I had on the car previously.

    I may actually put some MXV4's on my WRX now that the OEM tires are getting worn out. While the MXV isn't an all out performance tire, I think they would be great on my WRX given my driving style. If I raced on a track, I'd likely go with something else...

  • sebberrysebberry Posts: 148
    The BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires are working really well for me. While the noise is slightly louder than with the Potenzas, they are definately much better suited to the car.

    When I first put them on, they were great in the snow. (Then the snow melted and I haven't had a chance to try them again).

    They are great in the rain and handle puddles on the highway effortlessly. Dry performance is also pretty good, making tight bends on highway on and offramps fun to tackle.

    Choose the V speed rated tires as they have a stiffer sidewall and will provide better handling.

    The aggressive tread pattern also suits the style of the car, especially when parked with the wheels angled. (Ok, a little obsessive here, but isn't that what we are all here for? "Subaru's Anonymous")
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    I'm hoping someone here can give me a way to stop the metal shield around the exhaust pipe (coming out from the engine) from rattling. AZP said it could be removed, but I'd rather keep the protection it offers. It's as if a clamp wore away. I tried the old "duct tape can hold anything" trick, but that only lasted a day or two. I was thinking of trying to wrap wire around the 2 pieces of the shield. Any ideas?

  • I had this problem on my '93 Legacy- loud rattle until warmed up; after that it was minimal. Much worse in cold weather.

    I tried everything I could think of (including ductape and wire) and eventually just took the darn thing off.

    I never really figured out if the noise was caused by the pieces rattling against each other, or against something else. If they're rattling off each other, could they be tacked together somehow? Wire never worked because it would loosen up after a short time from heat expansion, but maybe some kind of muffler repair epoxy along the seams would work.

    Good Luck!

  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    Can you get it tack welded?
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    or rivoted.

  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    I used hose clamps until the rattle on my 98 Outback got so bad I couldn't take the embarrassment anymore. A dealer welded it/them and the rattle has been gone since September. It cost about $70 here in Minneapolis.

  • rqzmdxrqzmdx Posts: 1
    Did you get any response back with your transmission problems?

    I have a 1999 Subaru Outback with automatic transmission and 71,000 miles with similar problem. When shifting from park to drive or reverse there is an intermittent delay. It's like getting stuck in neutral. This only happens when the vehicle is in complete stop. To get it going I usually rev the gas slightly and the transmission kicks in. Once it goes forward, transmission runs smoothly without any hesitation or any shifting problems between gears thereafter. Please also note that differential gear (front and rear) as well as the transmission fluids appear to be full.

    Any advice out there? I'm also concern whether it will be an expensive fix. Otherwise, it has been a great car.
  • orntornt Posts: 3
    I had to jumpstart my '97 Outback today and decided to replace the aging battery. The car was fine while I ran errands and picked up a new battery. Upon connecting the new battery the parking lights (front and back) and the glove compartment light started flashing. I can hear a selonoid clicking near the fuse box under the dash. The lights flash for several minutes, stop for 15 seconds or so, then start flashing again. Otherwise the car runs just fine. The only way to stop the flashing is to disconnect the battery. I put the old battery back in and the problem still exists. I've checked various switches and they are in the off position. Any ideas?
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,432
    You should be able to stop the flashing by locking and unlocking the car using the keyless entry remote.

  • orntornt Posts: 3
    Thanks Dave. Worked like a charm.
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    I'll check into the welding. That's something I never thought of. As far as removing it, is there anything besides the metal that may be surrounding the pipe I should be worried about?

  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    My 00 OB has had a rattling heat shield on the left downpipe (the first shield) for a year or so now. I crimped the two halves together tighter which worked for a short while, but now it's bad again. So I got under again and this time I could see that there are two spot welds on the top of the shield that are meant to hold it to the pipe. These are broken because if I grasp the shield (CAUTION - NOT IF HOT!) I can move it up and down slightly. The right one is completely rigid. The dealer-offered fix is to weld it or wedge it with something non-combustible. It's no longer covered by warranty.

    Because I was using a bright light, I also noticed oil leaks. The sump bolts at the front of the engine and the oil pan itself are quite oily, both the drive shaft seals are leaking slightly, and there is evidence of a slight leak on the upper left of the 5-speed transmission. I think these are all covered under the major component warranty still in effect. I have 44,000 km on the car.

    Has anyone experienced similar leaks? I think I remember some discussion about incorrect drive shaft grease from the factory.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    On the front end I bet it's the O-ring seal for the oil pump. Ask them to check there.

    Never seen a tranny leak though.

  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Thanks Juice. Maybe I'll see if I can spot that before I take it in. I'll probably wait until summer because the dealership is opening a service shop much nearer to my home.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Just keep an eye on the oil level and the temp guage.

  • mjansen1mjansen1 Posts: 46
    Just received a check from SOA for a blown head gasket over a year ago around 62k. I think we paid around 25% of the bill since we were over 60K. SOA came through in the end (after a lot of work on my part). Need to get that special coolant added.
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Nice to hear that they took care of you, even if it was over an extended period of time. Just goes to show another example of Subaru's customer support.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's cool. Don't wait too long to have that conditioner added.

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