Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

anythngbutgm

Looking for a replacement handle assembly for lifting the rear load floor cover to access the storage compartment (spare tire, tools, etc). The interior color is tan and the model is a 2008 LL Bean edition Outback.

Also a recommended place to buy would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright

Either dealer item or try www.car-part.com

danznj

I'm trying to unscrew the seat bolt in my new 2011 legacy? When I use a torx driver the head of the bolt spins but doesn't get looser.

I want to install a goose neck mount on the passenger side seat bolt to hold a cell phone pedestal, but can't loosen the bolt.

I'd appreciate any advice.

Regards,
Dan

gjksn

It was hot and steamy enough yesterday in Minneapolis that when I went out to my car after work, the mirror had melted, or come unglued, from the inside of my windshield. Surprised me.

Now, a question. 2003 Legacy wagon. 55,000 miles. Let's say I need to merge somewhere or get out the way of something quickly. In second gear, I might be going 30 mph (I usually shift up to third way before that), and then for whatever reason, I need to nail it for maximum acceleration. Once I step on it to go beyond 30, I hear a slight engine noise. It's a little bit high pitched and particularly loud. It reminds me of what an old fashioned tea kettle or pressure cooker with the little rattly thing on top would sound like. I had a guy from my Subaru dealer ride along with me to listen, and he thought it was the brakes, but I can't think of why very high revs on the tach would have any relationship to the brakes. This car has had every recommended service by the dealership service department since I got it in Sept., 2002. Any ideas?

gjksn

In my previous message, I meant to say that the noise was not particularly loud.

xwesx

I used to hear that sound under similar circumstances in my '96 Outback. It started at about 150,000 miles and continued, with just about the same frequency and intensity, through the rest of my ownership (220,000). I suspect it was the rear (possibly front) differential, but again it never got worse.

Another chirp noise that the car made was from the timing belt pulley(s), but that one was not so speed-dependent and did get worse (louder and more consistent) with time. I replaced all the pulleys when I put in new head gaskets at 192,000 and it was gone.

xwesx

Dan, it sounds to me like there is a nut on the other side of the seat rail that may be turning with the bolt. Is there any way for you to access the other side in order to verify that possibility and, if so, get a wrench/socket on it to hold?

need_a_outback

Hi guys,

I have a 2010 outback which is recommended for 15k mile service.
What the price for such service? Is it necessary or just some inspections plus oil change?

Thanks,

xwesx

Just inspections + oil change. If you take a look at the maintenance manual on my.subaru.com, it will show you what should be done. If you know the basics of car maintenance, you can do it yourself with ease.

billgo

does anyone know where the transmission dipstick is located for 2002 Outback H6 LL BEAN

billgo

does anyone know where the transmission dipstick is located for 2002 Outback H6 LL BEAN?

ateixeira

Not sure, but here's a tip - it should be yellow.

Of course that won't help if it's dirty...

On my 2.5l Forester it was on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel - but I've heard other models can have it on the driver's side.

FWIW, I accesssed mine from the top, through the engine bay.

ic_designer

It is located beneath the brake fluid reservoir marked with yellow circle handle on driver side. It is hidden under rubber hose, so you will need to peer through the hose.

cabriggs

My wife has a 2010 Outback Premium 2.5i with just under 3700 miles on it after almost 4 months. I checked the maintenance manual this morning to see if it needs an oil change at 3750. It says the regular schedule is every 7500 miles except for certain severe driving conditions:

- repeated short distance driving. My wife's commute is about 30 minutes each way, so I don't think that qualifies.

- driving in dusty conditions. I'm not sure but I suspect the levels of dust we have aren't what they're referring to. We're in northern Massachusetts (and not near the coast).

- driving in extremely cold weather. We generally have cold winters, but I suspect people who get extreme cold would say we don't get extreme cold.

- towing a trailer. We don't.

For fuel line and brake-related maintenance, they halve the interval if roads salts are used, and they are used here, but that's not relevant yet.

I checked MySubaru and they give two schedules! The "Manufacturer" schedule has the 7500 mile intervals, but there's also a "Dealer" schedule and it has 3750 mile intervals.

I feel like an idiot for being confused. With my other cars, they simply said if you have any of the severe driving conditions, halve the service interval for all maintenance. It was less precise, but simpler to interpret.

To any New Englanders reading this: what schedule do you use?

Thanks.

xwesx

Alaskan, here, not New Englander.

For your first oil change, I strongly recommend that you change it at the shorter (3750) interval. This is to remove the break-in wear elements, such as silicon, molybdenum, aluminum, iron, and calcium, which I can pretty much guarantee will be at fairly high percentages at this point. These same elements will be much lower on your next oil change, even if you do opt for the 7500 intervals. If you use standard (non-synthetic) oils, I would not personally opt for the 7500 interval under any conditions. If you switch to synthetic, 7500 is plenty frequent.

I imagine that your dealership shows only the severe schedule for two reasons: They can "justify" it based on the climate and they get twice the revenue if their customers bring in their cars twice as often. They really don't care how you, the customer, actually uses your car. :P

cabriggs

Good points all.

Now that you mention the break-in, I remember that one dealer once told me they tell their new car buyers to bring their car back after 1000 miles for the first oil change for that reason. I think it was even complementary. I forget what kind of dealer it was, maybe Acura. Granted, it could've just been a scheme to get people thinking they should get their oil changes at the dealer...

There's another factor here that nudges me toward an oil change now. We're having a baby and it's due in early November. After that my wife's car will be driven less, at least for a while. It could end up being six months from now before her car hits 7500 miles.

Anyway, thanks for the info and suggestion. I'll get it done tomorrow.

xwesx

Congratulations! If it is your first, well, haha... you're in for it! Best wishes on all fronts. :shades:

cabriggs

Thanks. It is our first, hence the new car, which won't stay new-looking for long, I'm sure.

daisygmrgrl

daisygmrgrl

So I have had my car 3 years and last week my left turn signal starting blinking super fast. I owned a 90 jetta gls for 9 years and did all work and mods to my car.. yes im a girl.... but this car is no where NEAR the same. I need help! How do I fix this? I didn't see an access panel in the back. Both bulbs, front and back, both are working, but still blink really fast. Please help me figure this out as my car is out of warranty and I want to start learning how to fix my car on my own.

gizzer777

This goes way back and I am not sure that today's autos still have one...There used to be a small silver can shaped object (blinker relay) under the dash or under the hood...perhaps if you have one, and it has gone kaput...just a guess and good luck

hratmsu

I don't a Subie yet. Pick up my 2011 Outback in two weeks. But, generally that just means the bulb is burnt out. It is a notification device. I had the similar thing happen several months ago in my 07 Ford Edge.

fibber2

First, double check the bulb count left to right and make sure that all the lights on the left side are really working and at full brightness. It does sound like a bulb/socket on that side is not right to suddenly be flashing at a different pace.

In the old days of the mechanical bimetallic clicking can flashers (as gizzer suggested), a lower current draw (bulb out) would typically result in a slowing of the flasher rate, while a short or over current draw would heat up that metal tab faster and it would click faster (but yes, some worked differently...). Today's timer chips are more likely set to flash faster as a warning to you when anything is wrong - either a leakage/short or a bulb out.

Check the back section of your owners manual for instructions on how to access the tail lamps. There is either an access port in the gate or a trim section that snaps off, or the light assembly screws or snaps in from the outside. If you don't have your manual, you can download it from the Subaru site.

tkat17

I have a 2006 Subaru Outback that the battery went dead. I had an independent garage replace the battery and use a memory saver to keep the electronics charged. I had to jump the car 3 times before replacing the battery. After replacing the battery, the check engine and cruise lights flash on and off. Can't find any troubleshooting info online. The car now is hard to start. Any ideas? I'm going back to the independent garage in a couple of days to look at it.

surrfurtom

I have a 2010 Outback with about 12K miles on it. The front brake caliper now has a metallic click when the brakes are first applied going forward and they also click when first applied in reverse. Almost sounds as though the caliper is rotating slightly to a stop position. Up until about 12K miles I had never noticed this noise. Does anyone else have this and have you had it analyzed and/or fixed? Dealer claimed it was just standard brake noise.

zman3

I've had noises like this in the past. It was the brake pads moving ever so slightly in their mounting clips. More or less a tolerance issue.

sghusker

Has anyone ever had any luck trying to buff out the cloudy residue of front headlights? Are any of those products out there worth the time and money?

Mr_Shiftright

Yeah those buffing kits work, to some extent. But you have to be patient and follow directions. It's a bit tedious.

Visiting Host

xwesx

Tedious, for sure, but at least they do work! I only ever did this on my '98 Caravan, and then ended up selling it about a year later because of some electrical problems that I could not ferret out, but the covers were still in good shape. I have heard they tend to cloud over again sooner than the original process.

gjksn

I used Meguiars Professional Headlight Restoration Kit. It worked well and was easy for someone who is not a do-it-yourselfer. My headlights look great again.

surrfurtom

Thanks for the confirmation.

canonfodder

Question. Will 1992 Legacy crank when the Hazards are on?

gizzer777

I have used a product called NOVUS, fine plastic scratch remover with moderate success. I had to make multiple passes (USING A RANDOM ORBITAL PORTER CABLE BUFFER). I live in Northern Nevada where your entire auto can get sand blasted (in particular the headlight lenses) in a matter of moments, during one of our 45-80 mph wind /sand storms! VERY UGLY!!!! (LOL...weather forcast is calling for a storm today thru the weekend! (Subie will probably sit it out in the garage....snow will follow the sand storm!!!!

You must take your time and be gentle with the entire process. (basically, rub it in, let dry, and then buff it out). As someone else here said though.....the buffing frequency does increase, thew more you treat it. (BTW: Novus also works decently on the front screen of an older Apple IPOD (LOL)

It does really look great for the 1st few days though!!!

mtgen

Hello!

I have a 2002 Subaru Legacy with 167,000 miles. About a year ago the CEL came on. Drove it fine for about eight months then the car started cutting out when stepping on the gas. I took it to our mechanic and the codes showed P0447 (EVAP vent open) and P0130 (O2 sensor circuit problem B1 S1). I had those problems fixed and the car ran great, only thing is one week later the CEL came on again, this time the P0420 cat inefficiency code showed up. Our mechanic said the cat needed to be replaced and quoted $720.00 parts and $87.00 labor. We're in Montana and I've been checking out replacement cats on rockauto.com and partstrain.com and thinking it would save a whole lot to just do it ourselves.

So my questions are:
1. Does anyone have any experience replacing their cat themselves and have any advice to offer, such as brand that worked out okay, other parts needed besides cat etc.

2. Is it likely to be able to easily replace the cat and get the CEL to stay cleared after?

We are getting ready to sell this car and would like to get this problem fixed and the CEL clear beforehand....thanks for any help you can give us.

xwesx

While it should not be a difficult project, it often turns out to be. The reason is because you're working with the exhaust pipes, which are subjected to high heat. I believe that car has a pair of cats, rather than just one, so you'll likely need to replace both or risk the problem continuing. Since you recently replaced an oxygen sensor (was it just one, or both?), that is not the likely source of the error code (P0420 can be caused by the cat itself or erroneous readings from the oxygen sensors). However, there are also two oxygen sensors - one upstream and one down - so depending on which one was replaced, there could still be an issue there.

As for the cat, you'll need to be patient and have a generous supply of Liquid Wrench or PBlaster on hand for all the sure-to-be-difficult/seized bolts, as well as a few extra parts... just in case! I have not replaced a cat on a Subaru, but you may also need a set of exhaust gaskets for the engine, in the event the pipes need to be separated at that point in order to proceed with the replacement. A Hayne's manual will likely help you out in your effort and guide you through the process.

The price you listed from the shop, though, sounds in line with the price I was quoted for mine.

fibber2

Following up on Wes's comments, one of the two earlier code you got (P0130) was for the front oxygen sensor. When that malfunctioned, driveability was impacted as the cat was likely receiving an overly rich mixture. During that time it could have been overloaded with fuel and it's life shortened. Now the rear is indicating the presence of unburned fuel (P0420). Of course it could be a rear sensor failure, and the cat is maybe still OK. And that is the problem with just going by the codes. Did the shop confirm with an exhaust analysis?

I have to tell you that this is a somewhat dicy situation. These boards are full of complaints from people with older, high mileage vehicles that have gone down this path. They replace the cat and then the rear sensor, and yet still get the return of a P0420 a few weeks after replacing each part. These systems are sensitive, and maybe close to the limit on emissions output, and it can be tough to get them cleaned up after a series of malfunctions as you report. I'm almost tempted to suggest that you make this the dealers/shops problem by getting them to guarantee this repair in writing up front. If they are 100% sure that they have done the diagnostics and know that it is the cat, let them do it and then hold them to their word if the code returns.

Yes, it is more money up front. But if you don't own an air impact and have never done this yourself, you are in for a real treat! At $87, they are only quoting around an hour of labor (my local rates), and I'll bet you are going to be at it for most of the day when you fail to get it apart without damaging a flange or two beyond repair.

Exhaust work is, well, exhausting!

Mr_Shiftright

To diagnose a plugged catalytic converter, you can check intake vacuum or exhaust backpressure. If they haven't done that, they are *guessing* with your wallet.

maryp3177

We have a 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback with 281K miles and 20 minutes ago, the driver's side window in the front doesn't want to go up. The switch works, but the window only goes up about 20% of the way and it gets stuck. Seems like it's going up at an angle, so is is possible that it "came off its track?" Any idea how much this will cost to fix at the mechanic on Monday OR is there a way to fix it ourselves (neither my husband nor I is very handy or car-knowledgable)? Seems like the motor is not the issue, since the window does go up part of the way and the other 4 windows are okay.

ponytrekker

Very expensive repair. Of course, they are not quick to tell you about the emissions warranty that often covers to 100k.

fibber2

Any repair will require removing the inside door panel. If you aren't really mechanically inclined, this probably isn't something you want to attempt. There are a few hidden screws and lots of plastic clips that are now old & brittle and will likely need to be replaced.

Mr_Shiftright

Getting the door panel off is easy but then it rather depends on what broke in there, as to how much it will cost. If the window regulator busted a weld or some such, then you'd have to replace that and it can add up to a few hours labor. If just a clip or screw came loose and caused the window-channel to mis-align, maybe not so bad then.

jim439

Subaru Outback 2001. I had just replaced the drive shaft, rear differential bushings and the power steering rack. After I drove home from the dealership repair shop the problem occurred with my left turn. When I was making wide left turn the skidding yellow light came up and my car was stopping and going during the turn.
When I returned my car back to the dealership, they were not sure what was causing this problem and wanted to replace the Steering angle sensor at my expense, but they were not sure if it will cure the problem.
My question is: Could it be that the replacement of the draft shaft and the power steering rack caused the failure of the Steering angle sensor?

xwesx

Possibly, but it is more likely that they didn't put something back together correctly.

Either way, you paid them to do a job and if the systems they repaired are not working properly afterward, they need to "man up" and make it right. If it turns out that there is a sensor that is bad, it is reasonable for you to pay for the part, but otherwise it should be on their dime.

fibber2

I'm going to assume that this is a H6 VDC? This sounds like a stability control like issue. Steering angle as defined by the rack sensor does not agree with the actual tire angle & vehicle path as defined by the yaw sensor - and the computer is selectively applying one or more corner brakes.

As Wes said, it sounds like something wasn't assembled quite right. The pinion gear on the rack might not have been centered when it was mounted? Just a guess on the cause, but the outcome cries false instability reading.

saedave

If it is a VDC model, turning off VDC stability control should permit normal steering and braking. Have you tried this yet?

fibber2

I looked in my '02 manual, and the steering angle sensor for VDC vehicles is located under the airbag/steering wheel assembly.

Is the steering wheel centered when the car is tracking straight? If the alignment is off or you have to turn the wheel crooked to make the car drive straight, that would probably be enough to cause this.

mtnsun

I have a 2001 Outback Wagon 5 Speed Manual Transmission with 114K miles. I live in Los Angeles.

My engine light came on and will not go out. My car is also losing oil, a quart every 5K or so.

I take my Outback for repairs for years to a reputable independent repair shop in LA.

I was told today that I need a new catalytic converter, and that I have oil leaking from both head gaskets. I know that 2001 Outbacks have had head gasket problems, but my car is over 10 years old and has over 100K miles. What shall I do? I can't sell the car because it can't pass CA Smog testing (required when you sell a car) without a new cataytic converter. The new heads will be expensive, due to the labor costs. I figure I am looking at over 3K repairs for a car worth maybe 4.5K.

Do I keep driving it until it dies, fix it, buy a new one. I am thinking about calling Subaru to complain. I think 2 head gaskets going bad with only 114K is a manufacturing defect. I love my car, love Subarus but I may now have to replace the converter and head gaskets, and the car only has 114K. I have had Hondas with many more miles and much less problems.

Any thoughts, suggestions?

ponytrekker

The head gaskets and cats are common problems with these cars. I say drive it until it stops.

xwesx

The converter may not even be the problem. It is also possible that the oxygen sensors are showing their age. What was the code? P0420? If so, I would simply reset the code at this point and see how long it takes to return. The only way to determine whether the cat is truly going bad is to do a "smog" test that sniffs the tailpipe. If the car is within tolerance, it is most likely not the cat.

As for the head gaskets... better oil than coolant! a quart every 5,000 miles is not bad at all, but it is bad that the leak is HG-related. Have you replaced the timing belt yet? If not, and you plan to keep the car, I would replace the gaskets. Otherwise, you could sell it, but with leaking gaskets I daresay it is not worth $4,500.

Mr_Shiftright

You are supposed to use a special coolant to prevent head gasket deterioration so if that got neglected at some point, that might be part of the problem.

But the 2.5L engines are notorious for this issue, and Subaru isn't going to do anything about it at that mileage.

If you really love the car, it pays to fix it. I wouldn't wait until the engine self-destructs, no.

If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I can send you to a very good Subaru shop.