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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    If I had a ten year old junk box, sure Mickey and Minnie Mouse are fine. But on a brand new car, I beg to disagree - new car, this price range, I wouldn't care if its intermittent or not - I'd be looking up lemon law details now. That's why they have lemon laws, for problems that can't / won't be fixed by the mfr.

     

    To Subaru for abandoning a non-starting car because they lack the technical expertise to trouble shoot it, Shame On You.

     

    Anyone heard if Subaru is giving us a Patti replacement for the forum's issues?

     

    Larry
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I tend to agree with you on Jun's issue that SOA is ultimately responsible to provide a car that starts. However, this happened to my wife's Mazda a couple times -- she couldn't get it to start, but it fired right up for me -- so I am almost suspecting there may be some wierd user/error going on. Regardless, Subaru should be able to diagnose the problem no matter what the cause. I'd be pretty frustrated if it was me.

     

    On your ticking noise -- did it start right after the oil change, or did you have it previously??

     

    Craig
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Isn't the '05s Legacy GT & OBXT equipped with the key immobilizer?

     

    IIRC, the non-start occurs when cold.

    Maybe the cold is affecting the conductivity between ignition cylinder and key that the chip in the key isn't getting juiced up to transmit the codes?

     

    -Dave
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    craig - the ticking valve noise has been there forever - or should I say the "light" sewing machine noise. Pretty comfortable with that being the lifters. Also, that noise is a true clattering sound since its more than one lifter.

     

    The deeper ticking noise, at a lower frequency, seems to be a single mechanical noise. I thought I heard it a couple of times when she's started the car in the last few weeks (I'm used to all the "usual" noises because I'm sitting in the kitchen having my coffee when she starts the car). You can hear this noise in the kitchen (25ft or so) w/no problem. The hard part I had was isolating it.

     

    BTW, Blackstone's last analysis said I could "push" the oil changes to at least 4k w/no problem, so I let this one go to about 3800.

     

    Larry
  • andrewkandrewk Posts: 59
    I had my '05 OB for a total of 9 days when I caught a rock or pebble I never even saw. Of course it chipped the windshield. Back in '99 same thing happen to my 2 week old GMC Sierra. Fortuntely, both were succesfully repair/sealed/stabilized and neither required replacement.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,409
    "If I had a ten year old junk box, sure Mickey and Minnie Mouse are fine."

     

    Mickey Mouse beats not being able to get to work. I'm not suggesting living with this forever, I'm suggesting an alternative.

     

    Flatbedding the car to the dealership is nonsense when, as seems to be the case here, the bouncing and jostling makes the symptom disappear.

     

    I'd keep up on the documentation, I'd learn EXACTLY how Lemon Law works in my state, but I'd also try to have a backup for when the car doesn't start, and I think you have an obligation to work with your dealer, as much as he has to work with you.

     

    Next time, get a tech to the car, not the other way round. And I'd still get the switch, but that's me.

     

    -Mathias
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    Jun,

     

    I posted additional details to you over in Problems & Solutions earlier today. SoA must insist that the tech come to the car and catch it in the act. Everyone is wasting time and money bringing the car to the shop.

     

    Steve
  • i have had to replace 3 out of 4 of the fuel injectors in my 2000 OB 2.5 L. my dealer serviceman says he has never seen this problem. what could be the cause ? the first time i had one replaced, a mechanic suggested that using premium fuel would prevent a recurrence, but i've mostly heard that that shouldn't make a difference.

     

    what gives ?
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    Are they clogged or dead? If the fuel filter hasn't been replaced lately, I'd try that. If the thing keeps popping injectors, either you've got a bad batch (wasn't there something posted about a bunch of bad fuel injectors at the dealers?), or there's a strange electrical problem going on.

     

    HTH

    Larry
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    I bet they have to threaten to invoke the lemon law before anyone dispatches a tech on site. I've never seen a dealer willingly do that yet.

     

    As to the switch, I can see a dealer invalidating the entire claim because they hooked up anything to the electrical system. I'd agree that's not fair, and dirty pool, but I've seen dealers use any, and every, excuse to get out of a claim.

     

    It's fairly obvious the dealer doesn't want to play anymore and is going to need a nudge (or lemon law threat) to proceed further.

     

    Larry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Call 800-SUBARU3 and ask what SoA can do to help first.

     

    When you get adversarial the dealers clam up and stop helping, you tend to get nowhere.

     

    Just my unscientific observation.

     

    -juice
  • Now my HVAC system in my 05 Oyback is making a flittering noise that's getting more pronounced. Thinking it was debris or leaves, I cycled through all the modes and fan speeds over and over with no avail. Sounds like something is coming loose? Anyone else get that?

     

    It is getting so irritating I don't want to turn on the heat.

    What is it? Did I just call my car an Oyback? That's funny!
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,409
    "When you get adversarial the dealers clam up and stop helping, you tend to get nowhere. "

    Bingo.

    Once you're on solid ground with Lemon Law so they HAVE to take it back, you can do whatever. Until then, you have to play ball.

     

    The switch I'm talking about is just a couple alligator clamps, not permanent, and does not hook into the vehicle's electrical system. Just supplies 12V to the starter solenoid.

     

    -Mathias

    (who always likes to have a Plan B)
  • stantontstantont Posts: 148
    Hey folks,

     

    I am about to install the factory subwoofer on my '02 Legacy wagon. I have the written instructions from the website and the illustrated ones that came with the subwoofer, but both cover AT cars, not the MT. Since the MT shift boot is not the same as the AT slider cover, I am a bit stumped. How does the boot/console come off? Anyone been there/done that?

     

    A reply in the next few minutes would be great if anyone can do that; I am about to head out the door and give it a try.

     

    Stanton
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I did it to replace my wife's stereo.

     

    IIRC you start at the back of the center console, there should be screws once you lift up the center arm rest.

     

    I don't remember the details, and didn't take pictures because Pat and/or bitman had showed me photos and instructions I had printed, but I didn't save the URL.

     

    I do recall that I removed the shift knob, and that the console lifted up and out.

     

    I wish I'd taken photos. The info might have come from Scoobymods? That sounds familiar for some reason.

     

    Just don't pry, nothing was hard to remove, and if you use force you might crack the plastics.

     

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    A few years ago I took my car in because the HVAC fan was making a strange noise and it wouldn't blow air on "RECIRC". It turns out that the air inlet is located inside the glove box, and I had placed some napkins in there which were sucked up into the fan when I put the HVAC into Recirc. After removing the wad of napkins, all was well again. Perhaps something got sucked up into the intake on your 05 OB?
  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    I had 2 of the fuel injectors replaced last January on my 2000 OBW. This happened at the end of last years 48hrs run when my check engine light came on, and stayed on for several days. They never did determine what caused it, but it took them a while to figure out that it was the injectors. Suabru covered everything under warranty, and no problems since.

     

    Mark
  • Larry,

     

    I was experiencing a lower frequency noise from my 2003 Legacy. The noise was somewhat irregular.

     

    My Subaru mechanic used his 18" screwdriver to diagnose the noise as a rattling cam belt tensioner. He replaced the tensioner and that noise was gone.

     

    Maybe that is your problem.

     

    Good luck.

     

    -Jim
  • Has anyone else had this problem? I'm hoping that it is just a weak spring on mine. We brought home a brand new '05 Outback last night. When closing the glove box from the driver's seat (i.e., pushing up on the left side of the glove box), it doesn't stay closed. If I purposefully push from the middle and do it slowly it usually closes (but not all the time).

     

    I'm going to bring it up to the dealer next time we bring it in; wanted to make sure it wasn't a widespread flaw.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Jason Boswell
  • What a great resource this is!!! So here's to my situation. I just bought a used 96 Legacy Outback 2.5L DOHC automatic.

    I took it to my mechanic and he fixed some problems however some still linger:

     

    (1) The keyless entry doesn't work (the remote control that is). Also, when unlocking/locking the driver's side door with a key or from the inside, not all the doors unlock/lock. I know they should and I can hear a sound as if they are trying but no luck. Is there a fuse or something that I should look to change? Any way to diagnose the problem?

     

    (2)The car idles a little high after running for a while. When stationary, the car idles a little rough at around 6-800 RPM when i first get in it. However, the longer i drive it, the higher it idles. If it's in drive, it never idles more then 1k RPM. However, if I stop and put it in park or neutral, it usually idles at 1.5k RPM. The mechanic said there is air getting into a valve so fixing it would mean reconstructing the engine. He said it's not a problem and something I'll just have to get used to. Any thoughts?

     

    (3)Finally, the past two days i've noticed that when i'm not moving or moving very slowly, my temperature gauge goes up to a very high level. However, when I start driving faster, it goes back down to normal (1/3 from the lowest setting). I've read that this is probably a sticking thermostat so I plan on replacing that myself. Any other thoughts?

     

    Thanks in advance for the help, it's really appreciated!!!

     

    Martin
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