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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    On subarus, at leat my XT6 and my Trooper rears you don't need to remove the bearings.

    As for torque settings it is listed in the owner's manual what torque settings to use for each vehicle.

  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    Greg - there is such a thing as a free lunch! You missed out on a good time, my friend...

    Anyhow, Lyn (postmodern) and I met for mirror repair and lunch yesterday, and surgery was successful.

    To recap, Lyn had an altercation with a utility pole and smashed the RHS glass. But there was no damage to the ABS plastic shell, or to the guts. She got a 'repair kit' from one of the local dealers that included the mirror, a self-stick heating element (all weather prep), the hard plastic backing, 3 sticky pads and pivot/mounting hardware. I think she said about $30 vs $150 for the whole assembly. Good deal.....

    We carefully pulled the smashed but intact glass w/heater off of the backing plate & disconnected the two wires. We used this as a template to put the new mylar adhesive heater onto the new glass, added the sticky tapes, reattached the wires, then with 4 hands, worked it back into the backing plate. This was by far the most difficult part. Luckily it was almost 90'F outside, so the backing (which laps around the glass - you see it as a narrow frame when in place) was somewhat flexible. I don't think we could have gotten it seated on a cold day. I used a curved carpet tack puller to hook behind the backer and nurse it forward while we worked the glass and frame edge.

    I took a few pictures, but think this tells the story. Lyn's car is virtually identical to mine ('02 base OBW, Timberline green), so they looked like twins together.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sweet, so you came over to help out?

    You get a Golden Subaru Crew Medal of Unselfish Service! :-)

  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    as Lyn had held out the offer of a tailgate lunch to all that showed up!

    I learned something new, and we had a good time.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well in that case she gets a Subaru Crew Award for Red Carpet Hosting. ;-)

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I missed it. I apologized on another board so I won't cross post. I owe you two a "free service day".

  • postmodernpostmodern Posts: 38
    To chime in, yesterday's lunch was a good time for a club meeting and SueBee is now as good as new thanks to Steve. The RH heated mirror replacement kit is an official Subaru part, but only the parts person at Rushneck Subaru in Tarrytown found it in the parts catalog. The kit is $30 vs. $150 list (plus $?? installation) for the entire assembly -- it's definitely the way to go if the housing and innards are still good. A warm day or a heated garage is a must for easy installation.

    It really was surreal to see 2 almost identical OBWs parked together, complete with an EZPass mounted in the same place on the windshield! The only thing missing was Greg...

    Speaking of Greg, it sounds like you had a positive service experience at Colonial. I think I'll give them a call when SueBee is due for her 15K service. I've only had her for 6 months and already the odometer is in 5 digits. Mileage passes quickly when the driving's fun!

  • jfljfl Posts: 1,335
    It's good to hear about "crew" members helping each other out. 8~)
  • lanicowlanicow Posts: 3
    whenever I get out of my subie and touch anything metal (or my wife) i get a huge static shock.

    it seems to be coming from the seat (no seat covers) becuz I touched the metal portion of the car from the driver's seat and i wasn't shocked but when I got out and then touched the car...ZAP!

    any ideas on how to eliminate this?

    I've never had this pbm on any other cars I've owned in the past, or even other peoples cars.

    thanks in advance!

  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I might have a coupon for 10 or 15% off of 15K/30K service if you are interested.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think someone mentioned holding the A-pillar as you get out, to ground yourself.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I think it was Colin who first suggested the A-pillar trick.

    The static isn't caused by the seats, but by the tires. Basically, the rolling action of the tires on pavement builds up a charge on the entire car (including yourself).

    If you step out of the car, you ground yourself and by touching the metal on the vehicle -- zap! -- the charge goes through your hand through you to ground.

    By holding on to some metal part of the car while stepping out, you don't get the charge jumping between the car and your hand.

  • donekodoneko Posts: 4
    I purchased a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited couple of months ago. The

    previous owner poured some coke in the dashboard, so all the climate control

    keys are sticky. I'd like to remove them as well as the CD player in order

    to clean them. This is how far I got (I removed the cup holders):

    How should I remove the fake wood panels? I tried to force them but I'm

    afraid to break them.

    Thanks for your help!

  • anechayevanechayev Posts: 1

    I was wondering if anybody can help me with my problem. I'm driving 2000 Subary Legacy, and during hot days it sometimes stalls when at traffic lights or whenever I have to stop for longer than couple seconds. Unfortunately it doesn't happen all the time, but I did notice that it almost never happens when it is not hot outside. It happens both when conditioner is on and off (in this case the fan is still on)

    I was watching tachometer, and what happens is that usually the compressor kicks in when it falls down to about 500 RPM, so usually it is above this mark. However, for some reason it doesn't always happen, and when it doesn't, it falls to 500 RPM, the car starts shaking for couple seconds and stalls after that.

    Since it is still on warranty, I went to the local dealer but he could not reproduce the problem and had no idea about what's going on.

    Maybe somebody can give me a hint of possible causes? Or maybe somebody had such problem and was able to fix it?

    Thanks, Andrew
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,335
    idle speed for 2000 Legacy is 650 rpm MT and 700 rpm AT in park/neutral. Is it dropping down to 500 rpm from this range?

    The idle rpms increase on my 2000 Legacy when the AC is switched on. I believe this is intentional to handle the higher load.

    With the high fuel pressure of injected engines, it wouldn't be vapor lock would it?
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I've always noted that the camber on the rear wheels of my 98 Legacy GT is very pronounced and I had it checked at 30K as I had noticed my winter tires wearing out quicker on the inner side. They were supposedly in spec. I just noticed this weekend that my summer tires were bald on the inner side on the rear tires (65K now).They were feathered but nowhere near bald just 3months ago when I changed over from the winter ones!

    Real pain, I had only gotten them in the summer of 00. They have half decent tread on the outer side (at least 6/32) and the front ones are a little better still though they are feathered somewhat too.

    Anyway, quick trip to NTB today and they adjust the alignment, the camber was again "within spec" but the toe was way out on the rears. Why would this make the the whole inner tread go bald?? Is it just accentuating the marked camber effect?

    Ended up swapping my 16in GT wheels/tires for the stock 16 in WRX ones I had taken off when I upgraded to 17 in wheels on the WRX. Those wheels look much, much nicer on the Legacy than on the WRX! I will use the GT wheels as my winter wheels on the WRX now! Does anyone know if there are rubbing problems with putting 215/55/16 tires on a 98 Legacy? I would like to change to that size when I ditch the RE92s.

    I had thought that non directional tires by being able to go on either side of the car would have less problems with this feathering but it really makes no differnce unless you remount them and turn them over on the wheel! Duh!
  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    If you can SEE that the rears are leaning in at the top (positive camber), then I'd say they are not within spec. Personally, I would ask to see the figures they got when they checked the rear alignment and I'd hope they weren't just eyeballing it. I say that because few dealers have an alignment machine. If they don't find one that does and ask for the printout - all alignment machines can do a printout and I've never had one done without a tech handing me the sheet.

    Also, if the toe can be adjusted, but the camber cannot (likely, BTW), I'd be curious if you were not just tossed a red herring.

    As to toe out wearing the tires like that - yes it will do precisely that. In the absence of your camber comment I'd have accepted this explanation, but given that you can see the rear tires are leaned in at the top (vehicle unladen, of course) I'd check a bit further.

    This must have wreaked havoc with your handling, and especially winter traction, BTW. With the rears fighting each other they were constantly slipping a bit and never really giving you full traction. Wonder how long it's been going on?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Doug, I think in:

    If you can SEE that the rears are leaning in at the top (positive camber), then I'd say they are not within spec you meant to say negative camber. Negative camber will be tiled in at the tops and wear the inner shoulder of the tires. My XT6 has positive camber in the front and is sticking out on the tops and wears my outter shoulder.

  • idahodougidahodoug Posts: 537
    Mike - you're correct, pardon the confusion. I often do the same with wheel offset (pos, neg, etc). Fortunately for all, I've mastered positive and negative on the battery......

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I wouldn't know the difference except I'm fighting with my XT6 Postive camber problems currently! :(

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