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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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  • my car does not have the keyless entry option. so it is a little different to figure out. the lights shut off when the ignition is turned off also. i will check the parking lights as well from the last suggestion.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It could be that the diffy blew out. This happened on my friend's Frontier.

    The LSD can't lock really as they are viscous coupled LSDs and wouldn't really be any tighter than they are set at. A broken diffy though could be acting like a locked diffy if they blew up the diffy.

    -mike
  • Looking back through the postings, it looks like a lot of people have had trouble with water in the headliner from the sunroof leaking. Nobody posted any solutions for it, though, aside from taking it to the dealer. My wife needs her car, so leaving it at the dealer's to fix wasn't an option. I decided to tear into it, and found it wasn't that hard to do, taking maybe 60-90 minutes to do both sides. First, with the front door open, pull down the rubber strip by the window, from just below the dashboard in front to below the upper rear corner of the window. Carefully, pull the plastic trim strip away from the windshield post and roof of the car. It's held with metal clips, so you have to pull firmly but carefully. After you have undone the clips, remove the end from behind the dash, then you can unhook the end by the door post. Remove the screws holding both ends of the sun visor, then unplug the electrical connector and set the visor aside. Now, if you carefully pull the corner of the headliner down and look toward the sunroof, you'll see the clear plastic drain tubes and their associated drain nub on the sunroof. The tubes on ours had shrunk lengthwise, probably from being parked outside last summer in the heat, so they had come off the nubs. From this point, you can blow air through the tubes to make sure they are clear. To reattach them, I took a pair of pliers, grabbed the tube, and stretched it toward the sunroof a few times to lengthen it. Then, I worked the pliers back and forth in a twisting motion to work the tube back over the nub. Since the tubes had shrunk, they may work their way back off the nubs, but it isn't that hard to put them back on again. If they get to the point where they won't stay put, I would probably get some rubber tubing the right size to fit over the nubs, and put the other end down into the tube. Somewhere, the other end of the tube has to be attached to something, because you can't pull it up toward the sunroof, you have to stretch it. In any event, you're done, so you can reverse the steps to put everything back together again. A few words of note: This was done on a '97 Legacy wagon, with no side curtain air bag. If yours has one, I can't recommend trying this. Ours does not have the roof-mount center console, either. Also, pulling down the corners of the headliner will leave slight crease marks in it. I don't think my wife even noticed the ones in her car, as they are very slight. Besides, our car has 170,000 miles on it, so a few slight creases are the least of our worries.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,679
    Yes, it sounds like a bad differential to me, as well. Now, is it front, rear, or center?! In terms of cost and ease of replacement, I would hope for rear.... :cry:
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,679
    Thanks for the post, John. It is always helpful when people share a fix. I know there was a fella, perhaps 2 years back, who fixed the leak on is '01 Forrester, but while he did link to photos of the problem and fix, I am not sure he ever posted anything overly descriptive on the forum itself.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • OK. I have several issues with my 2000 Legacy GT. The problems started with an intermitant CEL. I checked the codes and P0447 Evap Vent Control Circuit Open and P0420 Cat Below Threshold. I let them be for a short time until I noticed my mileage start to decline and once my engine dieselded after filling up my car with gas (I assume this was because the cat was clogged and was causing the engine to heat up).

    So, I replaced the cat myself and never got around to resolving the Evap issue. Meanwhile, whenever I fill my car up with gas, I have to push the accelerator a bit to get the car to turn over. This only happens when I fill up, and I never overfill.

    Most recently, my car began to randomly lose power; almost as if there was a governor not letting it go above 60. It will lurch and sometimes pop (a misfire), but it quickly goes away.

    I went in and retrieved the latest batch of codes. In addition to the two original codes, i now have:
    P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire
    P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
    P0171 System Too Lean
    P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 1)

    I did some research and it sounded like the ERG valve could cause the problems. However, it seems like the 2000 Legacy does not have an ERG valve. Someone also suggested that I try cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

    I replaced my plugs and wires last spring. So if anyone has any help, I could sure use it. Also, why did the Cat code not clear out if I replaced it?

    Thanks

    Bill
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    None of those are cat related codes. The misfires are due to the lean condition which is likely due to a bad or dirtly MAP of MAF. The O2 sensor being bad can contribute to this problem as well.

    -Mike
  • Thanks, i did check the parking light, i forgot about that switch. it was on. however, even turning that off, now when the key is removed from the ignition, the parking lights still blink as well as the dashboard lights, in time with a clicking sound that sounds like it is coming from the the drivers side of the dash, different sounding than the signal lights.

    any thoughts? i have it a shop now. thanks.
  • After reading this thread:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f117262/0

    it prompted me to check up on my most recent oil change. With the person doing the change not first knowing how to get my hood open, to actually cutting my hatch latch to the oil filter, I am wondering if the probability of him doing the same exact thing is fairly high.

    I checked my oil first, and it is dark, and over full. Getting nervous, I checked the front diffy oil, (couldnt locate it initially with our sleet and ice), and see the level between low and full, but my car is on a downward slope. This oil is lighter.

    I had the change a month ago, and have since driven 1013 miles. If the same mistake was taken, would the damage already have reared its head? Is it safe enough to drive to the place? Am I correct in assuming that the only way to add more oil to it is through that small opening where the dipstick lie?

    Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yup, you use a long narrow funnel to get it in there. Gear oil is usually a yellowish color but is much thicker than motor oil. It can't hurt to drain/fill the front diffy fluid and get another oil change just to be on the safe side.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Bill: if the spark plug wires are original, change those first. Then maybe the spark plugs themselves, and finally the ignition coil.

    All those things affect the spark.

    The other issue is fuel - so fuel filter, too. Beyond that it gets more complicated and I'd defer to a good mechanic.

    -juice
  • You might be better off at this point taking it to a dealer or somewhere that can verify that the previous mechanic didn't screw something up. Subaru will be unlikely to warranty something done by a non-Subaru mechanic, and you might need the information to hold them accountable.
  • Changed the plugs and wires last spring. Changed the fuel filter last summer. Changed the cat last summer.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Next thing to try is the ignition coil. Good news is it's only about $80, try 1stSubaruParts.com. They even take Subaru Bucks if you have a Chase Subaru credit card.

    -juice
  • All, thanks for the input. talked to my mechanic. apparently there was an old alarm installed, i never had an alarm key or key-less entry, so i had no idea. he had to find it and remove it, as i don't use it anyway. no it is rocking. Hope this helps someone else diagnose a problem in the future.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,679
    Glad to hear they hunted it down. It did sound like a keyless entry/alarm issue, so I was just about to ask if you have had the car since new. Glad I read all the way to the bottom of the thread! :blush:
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
    Bill,

    You have a tough one there, but much of it makes sense given the order in which the events occured. It could all stem from an evap system failure, so that is what I would go after first. It is a complex system, so this is just one possible senario:

    The evap system captures excessive vapors in the tank, stores them in the charcoal canister, then routes them to the intake manifold. It can only hold so much, and is only supposed vent to the intake at certain times, otherwise it will screw up the mixture. The vent that leads into the canister is typically located up in the filler neck, which is one reason why you should not overfill your tank. Flooding the canister can cause multiple valve failures. Or maybe it has some other problems unrelated to something you did....

    So lets consider an evap system malfunction as the trigger issue. It now dumps fuel into the intake at the wrong time. The oxygen sensor sees too much fuel, and plays havoc with the mixture. The cat cannot compensate, so the system flags the cat as bad. Maybe it now is, or again it could be just an instrumentation error.

    You replace the cat, but do not address the primary cause. Fuel system pressures, particularly in the tank itself vary wildly. Sediment breaks loose from the walls, and either clogs the fuel filter, or get thru, partially clogging fuel injectors. Lean mixture gives the misfire code, due to uneven cylinder firing in two of four (uneven power output), and triggers the lean mix indication as the oxygen sensor has no clue what the heck is going on, or how to compensate.

    Solution - in this order: Get professional help for the evap system. I doubt many could tackle this one. Then change the fuel filter. Clear the codes and see what shows up now. Consider getting an injector cleaning. You might have to end up changing one or more. If you cooked them, you might end up changing the O2 sensor, and the cat again.

    Steve
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Anyone mess with upgrading/replacing the horn on a late model Outback.

    Have a 07 that I would like to put some Hella horns on. It looks like I need to REMOVE the bumper facia to get at them.

    Anyone shed some light on this......comments are helpful....thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Don't replace, just add. What you can do is wire in some Hella Supertones behind the grille with a relay. Use the trigger wire for the relay tapped off the current horns or the horn relay under the hood.

    -mike
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Mike...my plan is to disconnect the wires from the existing OEM horns. Connect those wires to extensions to a new relay and wire in the horns off that relay. Horns will be mounted behind grill in front of radiator.

    Now all that part is easy...its the getting to the OEM horns as a starting point that is currently my problem. I have pulled the grill and the front part of the air intake....NADA horns......They are apparently down under everything somewhere behind the fog lights. I really am reluctant to pull the bumper facia on this brand new 07 Outback Ltd for fear of messing something up.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Why not add the Hellas in addition? I always leave the OEM horns in place and run the trigger for the Hella relay off the relay for the OEMs in the relay box under the hood.

    -mike
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Mike...a doable plan ...BUT ..I do NOT know where the OEM horn relay is. I assumed it was located near the OEM horns...which I am having trouble getting to. I do not have access to a wiring diagram or a schematic of where stuff is located.

    By the by...I do appreciate your inputs . As a long time member I have always respected your knowledge of Subes....Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The relay isn't down near the horns. There should be a black box with a cover on it. In there, will be a horn relay. What you do is strip a wire down leaving about 1" of exposed wire, and you basically jam it in with the relay on one of the 4 connections (you have to figure out which connection is hot when you hit the horn button) and this wire you then connect to the trigger on the hella relay. If I was in front of your car I could do it in about 5 minutes!

    -mike
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    OK.....I'll check under the hood tomorrow and see if I can figure it out. I'm guessing that it will be somewhere near the main fuse panel on the drivers side under the hood. Not sure about figuring out which of the 4 connections would be the right one....the wire stripping/jamming doesn't worry me ...I'll keep you posted.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If you have a test light, pull the relay and test the 4 connections to see which is the +12v that comes on when you hit the horn. That's how I figured it out on mine

    -Mike
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I've read about one person who was able to get to the OEM horns by going from underneath the vehicle. As you have correctly observered, the horns are located behind the passenger side fog light. You can unbutton the plastic shroud from underneath and reach up into the area. However, you will have very limited visibility and working space.

    Ken
  • lakepoplakepop Posts: 221
    Mike ...located the relay.....I'll probably wire via your suggestion......now if the weather would warm some....:)

    Thanks again !
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,735
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    No problem, I use the same method for hooking up driving lights to my high beams, works quite well.

    -mike
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