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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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  • The rear diff. plugs were very tight in my 02 Outback because the plugs had thread sealant (gray color) on them. I also needed to use 18" extension pipe on the 1/2' drive to loosen them. Since I noticed sealant on the thread, I put sealant on the back side of the thread just to be on the safe side. I am using Redline 75W90 GL-5 gear oil for front and rear diff.

    Alland
  • ncc4ncc4 Posts: 16
    I have a 2007 Outback ( non-turbo ) and it's time to change the air filter. I've done this numerous times on different vehicles over the years, but the instrutions for the Outback call for the battery to be disconnected.

    Has anyone changed the air filter that can explain why this is required, and what happens if you don't disconnect the battery.

    Thanks
    Nigel
  • Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and tips. It's out and sitting on the driveway. Replacement is due here by Tuesday or Wednesday, and hopefully it will go in next weekend. I plan to degrease the engine compartment while I have access.

    It feels like the flywheel / trans shaft is loose in the front of the tranny. I can pull it out a bit, but I haven't tried to completely remove it. Is that normal?

    Anything else I should check, inspect, or replace while I have total access?

    Thanks again,

    TB
  • I hope it's okay to post pictures on the board. Here are some shots of the internal damage.

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    It seems a valve broke, then broke other valves, then broke the piston, then broke the cylinder wall. But what broke the valve? Hmmmmmm...

    TB
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Wow. Cool photos. Thanks for posting them.
  • I can not find the gap information for NKG FR5AP-11 spark plugs for my 2005 Outback. Help!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Agreed, thanks for sharing the informative pics.
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,356
    I can not find the gap information for NKG FR5AP-11 spark plugs

    NGK pre-gaps their plugs. The last digit(s) after the dash is the gap in tenths of a mm.

    So -11 equals 1.1 mm or 0.044".

    Jim
  • I just had to replace the sunroof assembly in my '03 LL Bean Outback. The sunroof leaked and the entire headliner was ruined, and the entire back area of the car was soaked. It came home two weeks ago. In the next big rainstorm, it leaked again. Turns out the dealership hadn't reconnected one of the drain tubes. I was able to contain the damage this time by putting a tarp over the car until it could go to the shop; however, the amount of water that got in through the brand-new sunroof was not insignificant.

    What I don't understand is why such a substantial amount of water is able to get in through a brand-new sunroof; presumably the seals are pristine and couldn't be in better condition.

    The dealership is telling me that the sunroof is designed to let some amount of water through, and that the difference between the steel and the glass means the seal is never perfect. To me, this sounds like a big load of crap.

    I can understand small amounts of water getting through, since a sunroof means the roof has been compromised, by definition. But *that* much water is flowing through my car every time it rains? That seems like a pretty foolish way to design a car.

    Wondering if anyone knows anything about sunroofs, and if I'm just ignorant of sunroof science and the dealership is correct on this. I don't want to be unfair or unreasonable with them, but I also don't want this to happen for a third time.

    Many thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The dealership is right, you have a significant amount of water flowing through your car through those drains. Essentially the water comes in the seal and into the tray around the edge then runs down through the drains and out the bottom of the car. If the drains are plugged or disconnected you'll get leaks.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • Thank you. That is great to know, and very reassuring.
  • Well my replacement engine arrived yesterday. When initially contacted, the salvage yard said it was a 48,000 mile engine. My first look tells me, NO WAY!" They steam cleaned it pretty well, but missed some pretty large grease deposits, the heater hose connections have a pretty thick residue of decomposing rubber around the tips, and the timing cover bolts are covered with surface rust. My old engine had 125K on it, and those bolts still have the olive-green look of a new bolt.

    Also, they ground off the left and right case serial numbers, as well as the number stamped into the top center of the block. Is this typical of buying a used engine? Or is the salvage yard trying to hide something or prevent me from getting the background info about this engine?

    Have I been had? :lemon: ?

    TB
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Grinding usually indicates an engine from a stolen car.....

    I've seen rusted bolts on the front of the timing covers on newer engines so I wouldn't necessarily say it's a bad thing.

    Overall I'd say it looks shady. Did you buy via CC? You may want to look into what protection they can provide. I had to do this with a transmission that never shipped to me in a timely fashion.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sounds shady.

    I would call them, ask for a photo of the car it came from with the odometer showing.
  • The other day, I went to turn on the A/C and noticed the air not getting cool. When I came to a stop, I cycled the system on and off, but didn't notice the RPMs changing or hear the compressor kicking in.
    Decided to trouble shoot to no avail: Visually checked compressor on/off , did not engage. Checked connector, OK but no voltage. Fuse was good. Checked relay in main box (under hood) and it had 12vdc to it, but did not seem to have any 12vdc to any other contacts when dash control is turned on. I would check the relay but don't know what the polarity is on the energizing circuit.
    Anybody have any ideas/same problem and fix? Paisan? juice?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wow, I know nothing at all about HVAC.

    The only thought I had was some blown fuses still appear OK, but aren't. So I would change it. A fuse is just a few pennies.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,650
    If your refrigerant level drops to too low a level, there's a pressure switch that will not allow your compressor to engage.

    So I'd check the refrigerant to see if you have a leak.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • "But wait," he said, "there's more!"

    The left side exhaust and right side intake timing pulleys are both cracked, it has a brand new timing belt, but it appears out of time (marks on pulleys not lining up when #1 at TDC of compression stroke).

    And the compression check (by hand, since it's still on the pallet) shows 40 - 50 PSI max on all 4 cylinders. Haynes manual says it should have 137 - 176 PSI.

    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: ???
  • I just found my sunroof leak today. Had to remove 3 pieces of trim and a couple of brackets to lower the headliner enough to get a look see. The drain tube on the passenger side was loose. Water was dripping in thru the extra shoulder belt in the headliner.

    Where are the drains in the sunroof, and where do the hoses exit the vehicle?

    This is on an 01 Legacy GT wagon with dual sunroofs.

    Dave........
  • Seems fairly obvious... engine run while seriously out of valve timing.... New valves, pulleys (must have run for a while) pistons etc will be needed...
  • Allo!!.. is that the engine with the pictures??

    jjc
  • JJC asked,

    Allo!!.. is that the engine with the pictures??


    The pictures are of the engine being replaced. The problems I described are of the "used" engine I bought to replace the blown one.

    TB
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,648
    If the compression is that bad on the engine, I would be surprised if it even runs. At 40,000 miles, why would it need a new timing belt? No, this engine is bad news. I would give the POC back to the thief who sold it to you.
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • Hi. I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy and need to replace the IACV. Can someone provide me with suggestions, pitfalls to avoid, what to expect etc. It appears that access is a bit limited. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Andy
  • Hi Guys,

    I got my car back from Colonial Subaru in Danbury today with the problem fixed...here was the issue and the fix (and, btw, it was covered absolutely by my warranty!!!):

    R&R tranny, disassemble and found reverse brake worn to metal and reverse piston O rings worn out, metal was all through tranny. Replaced reverse brake, O rings and valve body.

    Sadly, my stupid tire pressure light is still blinking all the time, even with new tires and the dealer recalibrating the sensors...will have it disconnected and go the old fashioned way of looking at the tires and checking them :)

    Thanks for all your help!

    Jeannine :)
  • Hello all,

    I've just gotten a new '08 Outback 3.0R and cannot figure out how to adjust the fog lights. The local dealer said they are not adjustable but this just doesn't make sense. Right now they are aimed so low that they are useless.

    Any help in this regard would be greatly appreciated!

    Many thanks,

    JC
  • plim77plim77 Posts: 46
    JC-

    I have an 05 Outback...my fog lights are not adjustable. I've never owned or heard of any car that had 'adjustable foglights.'

    The beams from fog lights are usually just below the headlights. Their purpose is to help illuminate the road in foggy conditions (not what's ahead of you).

    Paul
  • Thanks for your quick reply Paul!

    I know the fog lights are to illuminate the road and not what is ahead of me, :D however, my fogs are aimed so low they are illuminating the road two inches in front of my bumper and cannot be seen unless you get out of the car!

    The fogs in my '98 Outback are superb, bring up the edge of the road perfectly in the fog.

    Our dealer has said they have had a number of complaints so I wonder if Subaru messed up on this design?

    Also, our former Subaru mechanic (who won a number of awards in Subaru's competitions) said that fogs on earlier Subaru's are adjustable (maybe not easily, but that they can be adjusted).

    Does anyone else have an opinion on this point? All ideas welcome!

    JC
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Non adjustable. Like most foglights on cars these days they are merely a cosmetic help. You could try to pry the bracke forward which would raise them, but really a lot of people think they are driving lights which the lenses are not setup to be.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
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