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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • jonkarpoffjonkarpoff Posts: 2
    They say the front rotors are warped but the pads are fine.
  • tsothentsothen Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Subaru Legacy with 190k miles. I had the transmission replaced about two years ago and it has been running fine. Tonight I got in the car and it started fine. When I pushed the black button in to shift into drive the shifter wont move. Could this be my transmission again?
  • ted55ted55 Posts: 11
    I had a similar problem with my 2000 Outback with AT. It turned out to be something really lame, but nonetheless it wouldn't go into gear from a standing start. I have a trash bag in the car that has a nylon hanging strap on it. I got into the habit of hanging the bag from the shift lever. Turns out that when I stopped the car and put it into Park, the edge of the strap got caught between the shift lever and the base, preventing the lever from being locked into Park. Now when I tried to move the shifter it wouldn't budge until I realized what had happened. Stupid? Yes, but an easy fix at least! Hope you hung your trash bag there also!!
  • ted55ted55 Posts: 11
    Here's a dumb question for you - with the cost of gas going through the roof these days, what would be the ramification of pulling the fuse out that governs the AWD and just running on 2WD until inclement weather and then just putting the fuse back in???
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's not meant for long-term use, but here's a pic that shows you where it is (on a 2001 Outback).

    It's really meant for when the vehicle is being towed, or for when you get a flat tire.
  • shiner50shiner50 Posts: 9
    I had a local garage replace my a/c compressor, high side line, liquid dryer, and expansion valve. I have had nothing but trouble since. Here is one for you subbie braniacs! Now I am getting a low pitch ( sounds like a low note played on a flute ) sound when I run the a/c. What I just described is what it sounds like from inside the car. I popped the hood and tracked the noise to the low side metal a/c line. It is actually reverberating in a cyclic manner. You can feel it reverberating when you put your hand on it. I have no clue other than some kind of restriction. HELP! SHINER 50
  • shiner50shiner50 Posts: 9
    It only sounds off when the a/c is on. I checked the intake and all is well. Is it possible to have a defective expansion valve? Also, when it starts this cyclic noise the engine drags down and the a/c stops cooling until the noise subsides...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sorry, I don't know the first thing about HVAC. I was hoping it was something loose on the intake, because that I've dealt with.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    as early as 90K to be safe

    Indeed, I think the manual calls for an inspection at that mileage.

    If you open it up, may as well change it.


    Inspection is actually every 30k miles. Takes less than 5 min by removing one side of the timing belt cover.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Here's a dumb question for you - with the cost of gas going through the roof these days, what would be the ramification of pulling the fuse out that governs the AWD and just running on 2WD until inclement weather and then just putting the fuse back in???

    Only meant for low-speed, short distances. Also it may not save you milage, you still have to drag around the rear diffy and turn the gears and drive shafts, so this will just put more strain on the front driveline.

    -mike
  • tomkat12tomkat12 Posts: 2
    G'day
    I have a 2005 SOL with about 83,000 miles, purchased in Nov. of 04. I think this seems to be a bit odd for only a almost 4 yr old car even with 83,000 miles. My check engine lite came on took it to the dealer and was told for $6300 I would need to replace my Cat. I had them reset the code, it came back on after about 400 miles, then off about 40, then on again about 2, this is very disturbing. Is there anything I can do without shelling out for the new cat? Maybe if I used a premium gas for a while or have something else checked to rule out that the cat is not bad, I can't believe that it would fail so soon. I feel like I purchased a lemon due to other problems prior with the air conditioner and 2 batteries. Please give some alternative solutions or let me know this is not as odd as I believe. Thanks Kat
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Hmm, I'm wondering how long the emissions warranty is for. Check your owner's manual to see how long the coverage is for that, it's probably longer than the powertrain warranty.
  • eskeresker Posts: 5
    I had the same code a couple years ago, didn't have the cash to fix. It came on several times, now it doesn't anymore. But the cost was around $1500, not $6300. Long term damages? Is it only pollution?
  • tomkat12tomkat12 Posts: 2
    The gentleman at the dealership said it was so high due to the precious metals in it. to answer ateixeira, the warranty is over, of course. lol I believe there has to be something else to boost the cat or clean it, maybe even hit the junk yard for a used one would be more cost friendly, I would hate to trade it in for another just to come up with the same problems in an unrealistic time frame..... kat
  • rviradiarviradia Posts: 44
    Looking at buying a 2005 legacy gt manual w/80K miles, 1 owner and carfax is clean, besides timing belt change in 10K, do I need to worry about anything else like turbo replacement.

    Thanks
  • maryp3177maryp3177 Posts: 6
    I own a '96 Legacy Outback wagon. 265K miles on it. I inherited it from a friend, so I've only owned it about 5 months. Yesterday, as my husband was driving, the clutch started to make a loud "click" noise whenever he pushed it in. We are fearful that the clutch is going and will need to be totally replaced soon, but we thought there was a chance that something was just loose and needed to be tightened. What do you all think? Thanks so much!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    Turbo should be fine. Usual signs of worn turbo are high-pitched whine that gets very loud, and also blue smoke out exhaust on cold start up.

    CARFAX is good but it can miss accident damage, so I'd certainly have the car on a lift and checked out. I've seen cars with as many as 3 major accidents, with no CARFAX records showing whatsoever. One BMW had the whole side caved in (friend's car) but the CARFAX on the car is clean. But with one owner, car is probably just fine.

    Also keep in mind that on Subarus if tires are worn you must replace all 4 of them. So if you have two worn tires and two good ones, you are still in for 4.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    You might check for a binding hydraulic master cylinder or hydraulic slave cylinder. Often a mechanic's stethoscope can locate a problem within these units. Otherwise, yeah, with that high mileage, you could have a bent clutch fork internally or some other form of wear, or a faulty clutch pressure plate. You need to have the car lifted and the noise precisely located. Could be small deal, medium deal or big deal.

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  • I need to know what type of ac my subaru has so I know which refrigerant gauge to buy. How do I find this out? It is not in my owner's manual. and, I cannot find it anywhere online.

    Please help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    It's R138 but unless you are well-trained in AC repair, and have the proper evacuation, charging, and safety equipment, I would have a shop do this work. You can hurt yourself or damage the car, or both. Those kits you buy at the store don't cut it. Some people get lucky, some don't.

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  • I recently bought a 95' Legacy L wagon, FWD. There was a cracked vent tube on top of the the front differential that I replaced with a new one from the dealer. Soon after replacing that tube, gear oil from the diff began to push the dipstick out. Ive lost two already while driving. I assume that pressure was building up inside the diff from heat and pushing it out. Is there any other vent tubes or vents on that front diff? Any one had this problem before? 'Preciate any ideas and help.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I own a '96 Legacy Outback wagon. 265K miles on it. I inherited it from a friend, so I've only owned it about 5 months. Yesterday, as my husband was driving, the clutch started to make a loud "click" noise whenever he pushed it in. We are fearful that the clutch is going and will need to be totally replaced soon, but we thought there was a chance that something was just loose and needed to be tightened. What do you all think? Thanks so much!

    Sounds like the throwout or pilot bearing. You need to drop the trans to do them, so might as well change them along with the clutch as well.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The gentleman at the dealership said it was so high due to the precious metals in it. to answer ateixeira, the warranty is over, of course. lol I believe there has to be something else to boost the cat or clean it, maybe even hit the junk yard for a used one would be more cost friendly, I would hate to trade it in for another just to come up with the same problems in an unrealistic time frame..... kat

    It's illegal for junk yards to sell used catalytic converters.

    As for price it should be around $1500 for a new one, installed.

    As for warranty, the emissions warranty is 80k IIRC.

    I'd personally buy a generic cat and have a muffler shop swap it in for the stocker.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Looking at buying a 2005 legacy gt manual w/80K miles, 1 owner and carfax is clean, besides timing belt change in 10K, do I need to worry about anything else like turbo replacement.

    I have an 05 LGT 5MT Wagon and I regularly track it on the road courses here in the Northeast. Just rolled over 57k miles, no issues so far! Just got back from 2 days at Pocono Raceway, did a few back to back sessions so I was pushing it to it's limit for about an hour straight right up to redline several times a minute!

    -mike
  • kbinkekbinke Posts: 3
    I have a 92 legacy that was overheating and the heater was not working. We put in a new thermostat, water pump, sensor and new radiator hoses. The car worked for 2-3 days and now is overheating again. The water is full and there are no leaks. What would be the next step, any ideas?
  • kbinkekbinke Posts: 3
    I ahve a 92 legacy that was overheating and the heater was cold. We replaced the thermostat, water pump, and sensor, along with the radiator hoses. It worked for 2-3 days and now is overheating again. The water remains full and there are no apparent leaks. What should I check for now, any ideas?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Is the radiator cold when it's overheating? Or is it hot as well?

    -mike
  • margot2margot2 Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 outback with 45,000 mi. I have new brakes, new tires, and have been rigorous on oil changes. What is needed for a cross country trip ? Spark Plugs? Filters? Fluids? Belts?....I am getting different info from dealerships. Also, please let me know what I should be doing for a low altitude car moving to 7000 feet altitude? Should I take care of an adjustment for altitude now or later?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I would do the following:

    Plug Replacement
    Air Filter
    Oil Change
    Coolant Change
    Drive Belts (Alternator and A/C)

    If you haven't done the 30k, then I'd get done also:
    Trans/Diffy Fluid Changes
    Brake Fluid Flush
    Fuel Filter Change

    As for altitude adjustment, the ECU will compensate for it w/o any external adjustments.

    -mike
  • margot2margot2 Posts: 7
    Thanks, Mike....
    Wow...that's a lot of moola.....I would think that when I got new brakes, they put in the new brake fluid. Wouldn't you....or is it not a mandatory thing.? What do you think this all might cost ????
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