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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • ian7ian7 Posts: 1
    Hi Mark,

    I have a 1997 OB and have had similer problems. A few years back I had to have the trasmission repalced ($4500). Recently I have been experiencing the same sort of problems you describe in your post. The RMPs will increase as I step on the accelerator but the car will not increase in speed - almost as if it's stuck in 1st gear. Eventually the car engages (or cluncks) back into gear and all is well. This usualy happens when I am in stop and go traffic on my way home from work. On the open road it is running great. Have you found any solution to your problem yet?

  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    On our '95 Legacy there is a warning label somewhere on the passenger side (sun visor?) that states the system should be inspected after 10 years. My wife had mentioned it the last time she rode as a passenger in the car, probably about three months ago. I'd be curious what the charge is for this service as I doubt Subaru will pick up the tab. I think my current solution will be to use one of our other vehicles if I have to carry a passenger in the front. I suspect a lawyer would have a field day if it could be established that you did not have the system inspected, and in the event of a collision, the air bag did not deploy to spec.

  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I got charged 3/4 hr of labor. i'm not even sure what they did as when I picked it up no one who was still around could explain it - before I brought it in, a 92 Legacy, they said they will run diagnostic codes on the system, but that car doesn't have OBD!
    ! the only reason to do it is really so when you do crash and it doesn;t go off, SOA can't get off scott free by saying you never got it checked!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    Thanks for the replies. It is not listed in the repair schedule by mileage because apparently this is a time issue more than distance issue. Makes sense - after all, wear and tear isn't really applicable for the airbags by mileage except perhaps contact points between the steering wheel and column, if applicable. The only place I have seen it is on the sun visors - I think both sides have the warning on my car, but definitely the driver side. I hate Gen 1 airbags anyway because they tend to do more damage to the occupants than good unless the collision is truely at high speeds (which is rare compared to total likelihood of collision).

    I had not considered the legal implications. I would never hold someone else responsible for something I did, but apparently my opinion is not shared by the "masses" judging by the US legal system today... so I should be wary! That, especially, was good feedback.

  • Dumb question from a dumb guy (inadvertently drained the ATF thinking it was engine oil- odor from brain fart still lingers)...

    Where the heck do you add ATF to my '03 Legacy (2.5)??? Through the dipstick???
  • Through the ATF dip stick hole located way back in the engine compartment on the driver side. Make sure you don't add ATF to the differential oil dip stick hole located on the passenger side.

  • This has happened twice now. 2005 Outback. I'm driving along and the engine just cuts out. No warning, no hesitation, no bucking, nothing -- just stops cold, as if someone had turned off the key. Yesterday it happened on the freeway, very frightening! I was able to pull off, come to a stop, and then start right back up.

    I'm taking it in tomorrow but I fear the mechanic will just look at me like I'm crazy.

    Any idea what it could possibly be?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Could be a vacuum leak.

    No check-engine light? I hope OBD2 captures some useful data for them.

  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729
    No, has to be something more dramatic than that to cause it to stop dead with no symptoms first. Like a fuel pump relay, or cam/crank position sensor, bad ECU, etc.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Lucien's car would not start when he forgot to reconnect one of those hoses.

    However, it would not have started again later, so you're probably right.

  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Wasn't there an issue with the 3.0 engines a couple of years ago where they would cut out without any warning? I don't remember the resolution, if any.
  • Update - called the dealer (since I'm still under warranty). Guy did not say "Oh yeah, we know what that is." Didn't say anything, actually.

    I expect I'll get the dreaded "can't find anything" once they give it the once-over. Will let you know Weds. if otherwise.

    Thanks for the responses so far.
  • Hi,
    Have a 97 automatic legacy wagon whose right rear seat belt is stuck. Can't move it in or out. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve.
  • mrk610mrk610 Posts: 378
    I have a 02 base outback wagon . I have just over 58k miles and still on original
    plotenza re92's. I still have about 1/2 tread left on them . I ,m going to have them replaced bfore winter with Goodyear Triple Treads. I guess I'm easy on my tires but I have noticed that they are getting very bad in the rain . They also have a lot of cracks and splits around the edge of the tread . I rotate them every 7k miles and keep air pressure at 32psi on all 4 of them .

    Mike K
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,729

    Pay attention to the recommended slight pressure difference front to rear. This balances out the slightly front heavy weight distribution to produce a neutral front to rear rolling diameter. Otherwise, your center diff is taking on more wear than it should trying to overcome the delta.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good idea to replace them, even with a little tread left they sound far from ideal.

  • I used Bars Leak head gasket repair, for $10 a bottle. You MUST follow the direction 100% and purge the cooling system of ALL antifreeze before adding this stuff. I flushed it three times, bringing the temp up each time to clear it all out. Then add clear water and the Bars Leak Head Gasket Repair. Bring it up to tempeture, purge all the air, let the thermostate open. Let it cool, top it off with water, bring it up to temp again. Let it cool, top it off. Then bring it up again, hold it at 1500+ RPM's for 10 to 15 minutes. Let it cool, drain the system. Leave it open overnight to airout. Then flush it with clear water (twice). Get all the residual Bars Leak out of the system before refilling with Antifreeze and Pure H2O. 50/50 or 60/40. Fill and purge. The reason you MUST have ALL the antifreeze out is that the Bars Leak Head Gasket Repair clogs up when mixed with Antifreeze. I did this about 8,000 miles ago, and NO more leaks!!!! A bit of work, but lots of $'s saved! Good luck!!!!
  • ycgycg Posts: 1
    There is a parking light switch on top of the steering column. I don't know why they need it there, if there's one on the light switch. But it's there, and many like you accidently switch it on, and end up with a dead battery
  • dealer seems to think it's something electrical. here's the service tag:

    CK wires from ECM for looseness CK no loose connector found, recommend replace IGN relay, replaced main relay.

    They have to send out for the ignition relay.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    Thanks for the reply. I did use Bar's Leak (but I only paid $2.50 for the bottle... I wonder if it was the same size!) and followed the instructions, but they were not as detailed as those you just wrote. Seems to have helped a little, but not overly significant. At this point, since I already have a set of HG to replace the old ones, I'm just gonna do the work. Only costs me a few (many) hours in time, but since there is other stuff to do while in there, no big deal. I'm keeping your message, so if I end up with leaks again or (heaven forbid....) continue to have leaks, I'll give the Bars Leak one more go. A lot cheaper than the other option at that point.... which would be a .308 between its eyes. :mad:

    I'm all but set to tear into it tomorrow evening..... :sick:

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